If you can can get that group tighter one handed in 9mm? You’ll be blowing us away with your Ruger .22.
Edit: I might have just accidentally had an epiphany!
Our 3rd, 10-Week Bullseye Session Starts on 8/29/2022
- Thread starter Bob L.
- Start date
If you can can get that group tighter one handed in 9mm? You’ll be blowing us away with your Ruger .22.
Edit: I might have just accidentally had an epiphany!
- Thread starter
- #22
Bigger bullets make it easier to touch a line and thereby raise the score. This assumes you have recoil under control.If you can can get that group tighter one handed in 9mm? You’ll be blowing us away with your Ruger .22.
Edit: I might have just accidentally had an epiphany!
I imagine 50ft timed with .50 caliber could be a bit challenging….
- Thread starter
- #24
I'm sure someone has tried...I imagine 50ft timed with .50 caliber could be a bit challenging….
That was my issue, I should have used the .45 instead of the 9mm.
I have ran into a slight problem. When I joined in the last weeks of the 2nd session, I put an aftermarket rail on top of my Browning Buckmark to carry my Vortex Venom.
The two top screws that go into the OEM top rail had lock washers. The directions for the aftermarket rail, suggested not to re-install these lock washers, but instead to use lock tite on the screw threads instead.
However, when I installed the new picatinny rail, the lock washers seemed to still fit? So in all of my glorious wisdom, I figured if the blue lock tite would work, surely the lock tite AND the lock washers would work even better?
The Buckmark is really dirty and isn’t functioning reliably because it’s dirty, so I went to trying to take it apart to clean it. The top screws in the rail to get to the guide rod and spring are both Allen Wrench screws.
Can anyone guess what happened?
So I guess I’m out of commission until I can get new screws from Browning and drill out the two that are still in it?
The two top screws that go into the OEM top rail had lock washers. The directions for the aftermarket rail, suggested not to re-install these lock washers, but instead to use lock tite on the screw threads instead.
However, when I installed the new picatinny rail, the lock washers seemed to still fit? So in all of my glorious wisdom, I figured if the blue lock tite would work, surely the lock tite AND the lock washers would work even better?
The Buckmark is really dirty and isn’t functioning reliably because it’s dirty, so I went to trying to take it apart to clean it. The top screws in the rail to get to the guide rod and spring are both Allen Wrench screws.
Can anyone guess what happened?
So I guess I’m out of commission until I can get new screws from Browning and drill out the two that are still in it?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
If the screws your talking about are the two that attach the rail to the top of the pistol and each has a particular hole and a particular washer...
They need to go back exactly as they came out. These bits aren't identical. You need a good torque wrench to set them right. Don't lube or lock tight them in any way.
Pull them every 4,000 rounds, thoroughly clean all the bits and pieces then reassemble per the manual.
They need to go back exactly as they came out. These bits aren't identical. You need a good torque wrench to set them right. Don't lube or lock tight them in any way.
Pull them every 4,000 rounds, thoroughly clean all the bits and pieces then reassemble per the manual.
Yeah, I have had it apart several times before I joined the competition thread, so I am fully aware one of the screws is longer than the other and they both have their certain place and do not interchange with each other. They are put in exactly right. The problem happened because of the washers and the lock tite creating such a strong bond that when I tried to loosen them, they metal of the screws is too soft and not hardened at all. Which led to the allen wrench stripping the holes in the screw heads.
They will have to be tapped out and replaced, so I can take it apart and clean it.
Just letting y'all know, I will have to make up some weeks in order to get this done.
- Thread starter
- #29
The bolts are softer metal on purpose. If, they are as hard or harder than the metal they are put into, there's a good chance they could damage that metal. It boils down to damaging an inexpensive bolt or a very expensive barrel...Yeah, I have had it apart several times before I joined the competition thread, so I am fully aware one of the screws is longer than the other and they both have their certain place and do not interchange with each other. They are put in exactly right. The problem happened because of the washers and the lock tite creating such a strong bond that when I tried to loosen them, they metal of the screws is too soft and not hardened at all. Which led to the allen wrench stripping the holes in the screw heads.
They will have to be tapped out and replaced, so I can take it apart and clean it.
Just letting y'all know, I will have to make up some weeks in order to get this done.
- Thread starter
- #31
Yup! The combo more than doubled the force needed to take out the bolt. Plus, the locktite lubricated the bolt going in. That meant it was probably in tighter than it should have been. All was good until removal...Makes sense. Me putting in the lock washers and lock tite?
Not so much.
Here is my week 2 score.
SF-65
Timed-86
Rapid-85 1x
236 total
SF-65
Timed-86
Rapid-85 1x
236 total
- Thread starter
- #33
Had a personal best rapid fire target this week... 97 - 2X
256 - 2X is this week's 3-target score.
The green dot is a "round file folder dot". Aim small...miss small...
256 - 2X is this week's 3-target score.
The green dot is a "round file folder dot". Aim small...miss small...
- Thread starter
- #34
Here's the second week's roll-up. I'll update the sheet as the scores are posted.
Nice shooting, Bob.
I am kind of stuck and really not improving anymore. This may be as good as it gets unless I have some trigger work done to make every pull completely consistent. I am having an awful lot of fun though.
I am kind of stuck and really not improving anymore. This may be as good as it gets unless I have some trigger work done to make every pull completely consistent. I am having an awful lot of fun though.
Great idea!
I think plateaus are a normal glitch in one’s progression. I think it takes a lot of work and analysis once you hit a plateau to figure out what you need to work on in order to get beyond that sticking point.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks Scott!
Plateaus are part of all measured sports. Getting off a plateau might require new/different equipment, a new process, and/or training. Training and practicing are not necessarily the same things.
Here's a link to read... Plateau plateau plateau - https://www.bullseyeforum.net/t14746-plateau-plateau-plateau. It gave me several things to think about. As you can tell from my scores, I've recently gotten off the plateau I've been on for months. My issue wasn't equipment. My issues revolved around process and grip. During my training/practice sessions, I worked on one thing at a time and noted improvements or losses. Getting off that plateau took almost three months.
I did three big things to improve my grip.
- support hand's index finger now wraps around the outside of the trigger guard - This lets my support hand's index finger supply a bit of additional back pressure to dampen the trembles in my strong hand. This works for me, it may not work for you...
- strong hand's thumb/index finger webbing is now placed high and tight under the pistol's tang - This lets the recoil go straight back and I stay on target.
- the trigger is centered beneath my index fingernail - dead center in the finger's last joint - This makes it far easier for me to get a clean/straight back trigger pull.
I played with my shot cadence until I found one that kept my scores consistent and higher.
As always, your mileage may vary...
I am currently playing with my off hand thumb. I am trying to find the most comfortable position for it. This week I put focus on getting my hand as high on the grip of that pistol as I could.
- Thread starter
- #40
Excellent! The pressure your primary hand places on the grip should be fore and aft. Little to no pressure should be applied on the left or right sides.
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