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As the Simple green? No.
WD40 is penetrating grease. Simple Green is degreaser.
WD40 is penetrating grease. Simple Green is degreaser.
.....No....Can wd 40 do the same
While at the market giving my sellers their X-Mas gifts to keep them loyal to me and not the Ebay’ers, one reciprocated with this cute nugget. 3/4x3.5 inch in its wooden house. Guessing a 19th century Pike by the hook thru eye clasp and probably a pen knife/pen nib stone. A petite rock that makes a quarter look big
HAPPY NEW YEAR ROCK RUBBERS
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Because it is a natural stone, and that is how nature works sometimes.Why is one side of the washita more translucent than the other
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Would the side that's more translucent be finerBecause it is a natural stone, and that is how nature works sometimes.
@cotedupy has one that is translucent in the middle, and opaque on the ends. That one is a trip.
Without being 100% certain, yes, probably.Would the side that's more translucent be finer
Maybe the one side was used with oil, making it more translucent? Just a guess.Why is one side of the washita more translucent than the other
It has been in simple green for 2 days so there shouldn't be much oil in itMaybe the one side was used with oil, making it more translucent? Just a guess.
Those wavy calico ones are awesome for tools. I have one that I broke(they're really soft) that I use as an axe stone now. I have my son one that he uses on throwing knives.Two handsome purple stones from the market. The 8” has a 2.28 SG, exceptionally fine, and a nice slug of skin on the side
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Stones being "Even grit" was a strong marketing point.I'll add a few thoughts.
First, these stones vary more, far more in softness/hardness than their Arkansas counterparts. The harder ones are virtually indistinguishable from hard arkansas on a lapping plate, the softer ones... well... I've had an almost pure white example, that could easily pass for a Lily white visually (unless very close)... that lapped every bit as fast as a Thuringian, and which pulled up mounds of slurry under my normal knife weight honing. What accounts for this difference? Structural integrity, which brings us to:
Second, The grades (LW/RR/#1 on down to #2, #3, etc); I theorize have little to do with color... that simply being a marketing gimmick to distinguish a "premium" #1 from the "standard" #1. What distinguishes the grades? Structural integrity... which basically means hardness or at least UNIFORM hardness. A #5 may be as hard as a #1, but it's hard in area's and soft in area's. A #1 is uniformly hard throughout. What DON'T you see on the surface of higher quality washita's (labeled or unlabeled)? The little broken bits... that look like the flaws in cast cement or other similar materials caused by air bubbles. The "gaps" in the surface... beyond the normal pores. The ones that aren't pores, but are actual breaks in material. Those flaws are what structurally compromises these stones... making them faster... but making them wear faster, feel worse under the tool, etc.
Thirdly, on that note. Don't think a #1 is necessarily better than a #3 for your purposes. Like I said, the lower (cheaper/worse) grade is going to likely be far more friable, and work faster. But it won't stay level as well (Will dish much faster), and will likely wear down many times faster. The cog in this (and probable reason the lower grades seemingly aren't preferred by anyone) is again, lack of uniformity. These lesser grade stones may wear unevenly; or they may be very hard, but only with pockets of soft that throws a wrench in the works of the stone wearing back to improve speed... so you can't just deliberately pick out a low grade washita and know you're getting a faster stone than a LWW. Also, this issue is likely part of the reason why so many washita's like to break in their boxes.
Fourth, related to all this again. If you're not thrilled with the feel of your washita: First, clean it. Second, lap it. Third, flip it and repeat. I've got an unlabeled or two (which I suspect are low grade examples), that feel dead with choppy feedback when they give it, and lots of breaks on one side... but the flip side is very nearly as regular as my LWW's (though softer). Lapping on both sides doesn't change the character... there's a divide somewhere within the stone. The hope is that the "good" side goes on for most of the stone, of course.