Rolling the Bones

[4and20blackbirds]

Monday shave

Prep: Neutrogena Razor Defense face scrub
Soap: Cella
Brush: Simpsons 46 in Best
Razor: Gem Junior, #6
Blade: Gem PTFE, #6
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Brut aftershave

Two-passes + neck touch-ups and an all-around DFS with essentially no alum feedback. A very nice shave indeed.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Tuesday shave

Prep: Cleansing Story White Clay Deep Cleansing Foam
Cream: Castle Forbes Lavender
Brush: Simpsons 46 in Best
Razor: Gem Junior, #7
Blade: Gem PTFE, #7
Post: Alum -> Stirling Bergamot Lavender witch hazel splash

Two-passes + neck touch-ups and another all-around DFS with no alum feedback. Oh, and the rare wife approval for the Stirling splash.

It was a fine shave, but I'm not sure I got the best out of the Castle Forbes as there was a distinct lack of cushion though it had enough slickness. I'll try backing off the water next time. I also noticed some irritation so I'll be looking out for that next time, too.

I've decided I'm going to keep the remaining three brushes: the 46, the Epsilon, and the Certifyd. All remaining brushes are now back in play, though some may yet be cleared out of the den as I use and compare them against the others. And I will probably still do some shootouts for fun, e.g., pitting the boars against each other.

I've also decided to add some flexibility on my time frames with the individual razors. I've been thinking about this for a while and, where it makes sense, I'll shorten the time that I use some of the razors if I've gotten a solid feel for the razor in under two weeks. Accordingly, I'll be moving on to a new razor tomorrow as I know that I like the Gem and I've gotten to where I can get consistently good shaves with it. Plus, I know there's only one blade that works in it for me so no additional testing is needed there.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Seven shaves with the Gem, almost all of them excellent. The real breakthrough was the new 45 degree downward angle for my lower neck touch-ups; I look forward to trying that on other razors, too. It was nice to confirm the only workable blade is the Gem PTFE, and I've got plenty of those–plus they last me quite a while. I'm leaving the blade in the Gem and will use it the next time it rolls up as I managed to get almost two weeks out of the one in the MMOC, IIRC. Speaking of the MMOC, I much prefer the Junior which is far more comfortable. Overall, the Gem gets an 8 on comfort and a 6 on efficiency (based on the two-pass results; plus, the Gem is harder to work under my nose).

Here's how they stand now:

Tier 1 (keepers)
1. Gillette Slim
2. Schick Type L1
3. Parker Semi-slant
4. Yaqi Beast
5. Gem Junior

Tier 2 (in consideration)
6. iKon X3
7. Parker 24C
8. Merkur 34C HD
9. Gem MMOC

Tier 3 (not for me)
10. Wilkinson Sword TTO

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Next razor is the Mühle R89 Grande.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Wednesday shave

Prep: Noxzema
Soap: Stirling Eskimo Tuxedo
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #1
Blade: Astra SP, #1
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Stirling Sharp Dressed Man aftershave

Two-passes + neck touch-ups for a DFS with very minimal alum feedback. In spite of that, I did end up with some redness on my neck and I'm not sure why.

I didn't really get a great feel for the razor tonight due to the face-freezing effect of the soap, but it was pleasant enough and is certainly a looker. I plan to try this one both steep and shimmed over the course of my time with it.

Oh, and although I previously thought that I'd used up the Sharp Dressed Man I realized soon after posting that a few days back that I still have a quarter of it left. The tiny dark bottle and small restrictor cap had me fooled.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Thursday shave

Prep: Curology Cleanser
Soap: Stirling Island Man
Brush: SOC badger
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #2
Blade: Astra SP, #2
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Chatillon Lux Colbeck aftershave -> My Nik is Sealed

Two-passes + neck touch-ups and made it to DFS in most areas, but only managed SAS on my neck and got a weeper for my troubles. My Nik is Sealed took care of that, but it wasn’t a comfortable shave and I’m still feeling it three hours later.

Had a great lather tonight so I’m guessing I used too much pressure. I'm going to try taking it steep tomorrow night to see if that improves the experience. The following night I'll try it shimmed as I suspect I'm getting some chatter given the way the blade is held.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Saturday shave

Prep: The Body Shop sugar scrub
Soap: Noble Otter Rawr
Brush: Simpsons 57 in Best
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #3
Blade: Astra SP, #3
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> NO Rawr aftershave

Skipped yesterday because my neck is still red and irritated from Thursday's shave. Took the razor steep today and it was okay, certainly better than Thursday's. Two-passes + touch-ups to my chin and made it to DFS on my face. No way was I doing touch ups on my neck, so SAS there. I plan on skipping tomorrow, too, and then will try a shim on Monday.

The Rawr is a different scent, kind of spring-like. I would not want to use it every day and I may yet get tired of it at some point, but for now it stays. The aftershave was particularly soothing on my neck today.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Monday shave

Prep: Curology Cleanser
Soap: Stirling Coconut Lime
Brush: Simpsons 46 in Best
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #4 (shimmed)
Blade: Astra SP, #4 and turned into a shim to try double-shimming tomorrow
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Captain's Choice Lime aftershave

Skipped yesterday and came back today with an overall very nice two-pass + one neck touch-up DFS with minimal feedback for the best shave I've had yet with this razor. I attribute that partly to more familiarity with the razor and partly to shimming the blade.

The soap is one of my favorite scents I've tried from Stirling. No question I'm keeping this one.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Tuesday shave

Prep: Neutrogena Razor Defense face scrub
Cream: Palmolive menthol
Brush: Karve two-band badger
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #5 (double-shimmed)
Blade: Astra SP, #1
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Skin Bracer aftershave

Back to a mediocre shave today though I did manage DFS on my face and CS on my neck (it met the definition of CCS, but it wasn't particularly comfortable). Two-passes only because my lather wasn't overly slick, or perhaps the Astra wasn't sharp enough, or both. I'm going to try a Feather tomorrow because the Astra is not performing as well as it usually does for me. I never get tugging with them in other razors, but I am noticing it with the R89. I didn't notice much of a change with two shims vs. one so I'll probably drop back down to one tomorrow.

The Palmolive cream is already in the den clearing box. I'm not crazy about the scent and I've never really had a good shave with it. On the plus side, I like the menthol cooling.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Wednesday shave

Prep: Cleansing Story White Clay Deep Cleansing Foam
Cream: Castle Forbes Lavender
Brush: Vie-Long Silvertip
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #6 (shimmed)
Blade: Feather, #1
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Stirling Bergamot and Lavender splash

Not too shabby today. DFS on my face and most of my neck with one small patch of SAS in the typical trouble area of my lower left neck. Two passes only with minimal feedback from the alum. A little tugging from the blade, but nothing dramatic. I’ll probably take it shimmed and steep tomorrow.

The tugging I attribute to my lather as I've never had much luck with the Castle Forbes. I get serviceable shaves from it, but I'm after consistent comfort, so, in spite of its amazing scent, it's headed for the den clearing box.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Thursday shave

Prep: The Body Shop sugar scrub
Soap: Stirling Electric Sheep
Brush: Shavemac Silvertip Two-band fan
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #7 (shimmed)
Blade: Feather, #2
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Aqua Velva aftershave

Two steep passes plus neck touch-ups for a DFS, but with feedback from the alum and a couple of weepers. Not especially comfortable. The Shavemac was a delight, however.

The Electric Sheep produces great lather, but is very strongly scented and not for me. It's off to the den clearing box.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Friday shave

Prep: Neutrogena Razor Defense face scrub
Soap: Noble Otter Thé Noir et Vanille
Brush: Vulfix Grosvenor mixed badger/boar
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #8 (shimmed)
Blade: Feather, #3 and binned
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> NO Thé Noir et Vanille aftershave

Two passes leading to SAS on lower neck and DFS everywhere else. Minimal feedback, but some irritation nonetheless.

This isn't my favorite NO scent, but it gets a rare thumbs up from my wife, so I'm going to keep it around.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Sunday shave

Prep: Curology Cleanser
Soap: Cella
Brush: Simpson 57 in Best
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #9
Blade: Kai, #1 (shimmed)
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Brut aftershave

Two passes leading to SAS on my lower neck and DFS everywhere else. Minimal feedback and, for once, no irritation on my neck, which was a nice change of pace for this razor.

First use of the Kai and it was noticeably wider than my other blades. I went a little bit shallower to compensate and had no issues. I probably could have gone for touch ups on my neck and gotten DFS all over, but I just don't trust it with this razor. There's too much chatter on my neck on my normal passes which I think is due to a combination of an unsupported blade design and the crazy growth pattern there.

Cella's scent has grown on me and I like the way it performs: I'm keeping it.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Monday shave

Prep: Curology Cleanser
Cream: ToBS Jermyn Street
Brush: Vulfix Grosvenor badger/boar
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #10
Blade: Treet New Steel, #1 (shimmed)
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Pinaud Clubman Special Reserve aftershave

Two passes: SAS on my lower neck and DFS everywhere else. Zero feedback and no irritation on my neck. Probably the best shave with this razor so far. The ToBS made for some great lather and this blade has been the best yet with this razor, sharp and smooth. First use of the Treet and I was impressed.

The Special Reserve was universally hated by my family. Sample comment: "Smells like bottled funeral home." Alrighty then. This one is outta the den. No loss for me as I wasn't crazy about it either.

 

[thombrogan]

"Smells like bottled funeral home."

That‘s golden!

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Tuesday shave

Prep: Neutrogena Razor Defense face scrub
Soap: Stirling Iced Pineapple
Brush: Sanax badger-cased boar
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #11
Blade: Treet New Steel, #2 (shimmed)
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Stirling Lemon Chill aftershave

Two passes + one touch-up for DFS with a very small patch of CCS on my lower neck. A little bit of feedback and very minor irritation on my neck. All in all, not bad. The Treet held up fine on second use and was again sharp and smooth.

I started to go for a touch-up on the right side of my neck, but I didn't trust the initial stroke--too much chatter. The left side was fine, however.

The Iced Pineapple I'll be keeping--don't know that I'd buy a full puck since the scent is a tad artificial smelling to me, but I'll certainly enjoy the rest of the sample. The Lemon Chill was nice and cool.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Wednesday shave

Prep: PAA Ice Cube 2.0
Soap: Figaro Monsieur
Brush: Simpson 46 in Best
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #12
Blade: Treet New Steel, #3 (shimmed) and binned
Post: Alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Pinaud Clubman Classic Vanilla aftershave

Two passes only for CCS with a small patch of SAS on my lower neck. A little bit of feedback and some irritation on my neck (from both the soap and the razor). Just an okay shave overall. The Treet definitely lost something on this third outing. I thought it was off its past performance on my first pass and that was confirmed in the post-shave. Usable, but not as good as the previous two nights and leading to a CCS instead of DFS.

The Figaro is a pleasant smelling soap, but not a top performer for me. Add in some irritation on my face tonight and this one is headed for the den clearing box.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Thursday shave

Prep: PAA Ice Cube 2.0
Soap: Beaver Woodwright (n/k/a Black Ship Grooming Co.) Ghost Ship
Brush: La Maison du Barbier
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #13
Blade: Gillette Rubie, #1 (shimmed)
Post: alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Beaver Woodwright Ghost Ship aftershave

Two passes resulting in CCS on my face and SAS on my neck. Some feedback and irritation. First use of a Rubie and it was serviceable, but not much more.

The Ghost Ship gives lots of lather from a small amount of soap, but the scent is not for me and this one is going to the den clearing box.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Friday shave

Prep: Cleansing Story White Clay
Pre-shave: Proraso White
Soap: Stirling Margaritas in the Arctic
Brush: Simpson PJ2 in Super
Razor: Mühle R89 Grande, #14
Blade: Gillette Rubie, #2 (shimmed), and banked
Post: alum -> hyaluronic acid -> Stirling Margaritas in the Arctic splash

Same result as last night: two passes resulting in CCS on my face and SAS on my neck. Some feedback and mild irritation.

Used the pre-shave on a whim to see if it would improve the shave--maybe a small amount in the sense that I had less irritation as compared to last night.

The soap is definitely a keeper. A great menthol feel and enjoyable scent. Even my wife and oldest daughter liked it.

 

[4and20blackbirds]

Two weeks with the Mühle and I'm glad I'm done. I did not enjoy this razor, but I was glad I finally managed to get a couple of good shaves with it. On the plus side, it's a good looking razor and I grew to like the (relatively) fat handle. The downsides were many for me, though. The worst was that I just didn't find it to give a comfortable shave. And it was clearly the least efficient razor I've tried so far. There was too much chatter even with a shim and the head tended to stick in places, leading it to skip. Add in the nightly irritation and I'm glad to move on from it. While I was struggling with it the first week I found a detailed review that mirrored my experience: EJ Kelvin with DE89 head (same head as the R89). Overall, the Mühle R89 gets a 3 on comfort and a 3 on efficiency.

Here's how they rank now:

Tier 1 (keepers)
1. Gillette Slim
2. Schick Type L1
3. Parker Semi-slant
4. Yaqi Beast
5. Gem Junior

Tier 2 (in consideration)
6. iKon X3
7. Parker 24C
8. Merkur 34C HD
9. Gem MMOC

Tier 3 (not for me)
10. Wilkinson Sword TTO
11. Mühle R89 Grande