That's not funny.
PIF: Rolls Razor(s)
- Thread starter gdgeorge
- Start date
That's not funny.
[emoji1]
Actually, to the contrary, I couldn't keep from laughing
- Thread starter
- #64
Bwahahahaha...Actually, to the contrary, I couldn't keep from laughing
Checked back for a progress report from the winner just to see that your backs on the lamb hope your vertical and healed soon get well.
I'm in. Never tried SE.
Thank you for nice PIF.
Thank you for nice PIF.
Larry, this PIF is over, winners were chosen on 11/26.
- Thread starter
- #68
Hi gang,
Merry Christmas / day-after-Christmas. I'm happy to report that finally I'm back in the game enough to sit down and clean these things up. I'll try and get them into the mail tomorrow. In the mean-time, I'll post some pics of the clean-up / restore as I go this afternoon.
Best,
Jerry
Best
Merry Christmas / day-after-Christmas. I'm happy to report that finally I'm back in the game enough to sit down and clean these things up. I'll try and get them into the mail tomorrow. In the mean-time, I'll post some pics of the clean-up / restore as I go this afternoon.
Best,
Jerry
Best
Just to say I shaved with a Rolls Imperial this morning and was reminded what great shavers these are.
You PIF recipients are in for a real treat!
You PIF recipients are in for a real treat!
- Thread starter
- #70
Ready to rock and roll!
Here's the whole shooting match just waiting for my attention.
Sorting the cases. The one in the middle is actually in a bit better shape than the one on the left, despite the whatever-it-is on the case. I'll probably use it and the one on the right.
The middle one needed some alone-time in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Here it is out of the cleaner. Still a bit of gruck by the latches on both sides. It's sitting on a heat vent right now to dry out thoroughly while I move on to the hone and strop.
Here's the whole shooting match just waiting for my attention.
Sorting the cases. The one in the middle is actually in a bit better shape than the one on the left, despite the whatever-it-is on the case. I'll probably use it and the one on the right.
The middle one needed some alone-time in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Here it is out of the cleaner. Still a bit of gruck by the latches on both sides. It's sitting on a heat vent right now to dry out thoroughly while I move on to the hone and strop.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #71
Continuing on..
The handles cleaned up nicely.
Strop selection. The best three plus my CrOx painted one.
Best two.
Lightly sanded with 320 grit
First coat of Fromm's
The handles cleaned up nicely.
Strop selection. The best three plus my CrOx painted one.
Best two.
Lightly sanded with 320 grit
First coat of Fromm's
- Thread starter
- #72
First coat of Fromm's worked into the leather. I'll put another coat after a bit and then will work some FeOx powder into the strop.
Blade selection. A couple don't have the ball bearings an one has quite a smile from where I learned not to go nuts with the silicon oxide stone.
Forgot I had this one. It's a decent one despite the discoloration on the edge. I think the stones will take that right off.
The other victim...
Spine taped out to protect it. About 40 or so passes on the course SiC stone to set the bevel. Then an additional 20 or so gradually decreasing the pressure. Then the same, more or less, on the Arkansas medium and the fine. Basically I worked each stone until I saw even scratches through my 7x loupe.
- Thread starter
- #73
Moving on to the lapping film. I used 3um and 1um on a Home Depalowes marble tile.
Water on the tile holds the lapping media and water on the medium to add a bit of lubrication.
Again, I worked each sheet until there were even scratches and then about 20 stokes with gradually decreasing force.
Here's the blades ready to go on to the CrOx strop, and the strops with a second coat of Fromm's.
Moving back to the cases now. Going to clean the inside and the friction mechanisms and then lube the gear trains with a bit of petrolium jelly.
Water on the tile holds the lapping media and water on the medium to add a bit of lubrication.
Again, I worked each sheet until there were even scratches and then about 20 stokes with gradually decreasing force.
Here's the blades ready to go on to the CrOx strop, and the strops with a second coat of Fromm's.
Moving back to the cases now. Going to clean the inside and the friction mechanisms and then lube the gear trains with a bit of petrolium jelly.
- Thread starter
- #74
With the outside of the case pretty well done, it's time to move on to the inside. There's a couple of things to be aware of. First of all, there's should not be excess lubricant anywhere on the device. It winds up on the center friction roller and messes up the tension when you're stropping or using the case hone.
Second: done try to unscrew the post that holds the blade on to the roller. It pops straight off and the assembly includes the clip that fits over the copper / brass roller. If you look inside that, you'll see a piece of leather that creates the right amount of friction. You probably don't need to dissassemble the unit any further but just in case...
DON'T PRY on the BUTTERFLY SPRING!!! IT WILL BREAK.
TO disassemble that unit, merely pull and twist the center pin while un-clipping the butterfly spring. It will fit through without hurting the spring.
I used Hoppes and a whole bunch of Q-tips to get the grease out. The one case was a real mess.
Here's the Center roller after I cleaned it. On the one case, all I had to do was wipe it down. On the other, I had to put some Hoppes on it to get the petrified grease off. (And when I reassembled that one, I had to put a bit (a very little bit!) of petroleum jelly on the shaft to get the proper stropping tension...)
Here's the case with the post and butterfly spring clipped back on. The post rides in the groove in the middle. You can just see it up in there.
A better view.
Second: done try to unscrew the post that holds the blade on to the roller. It pops straight off and the assembly includes the clip that fits over the copper / brass roller. If you look inside that, you'll see a piece of leather that creates the right amount of friction. You probably don't need to dissassemble the unit any further but just in case...
DON'T PRY on the BUTTERFLY SPRING!!! IT WILL BREAK.
TO disassemble that unit, merely pull and twist the center pin while un-clipping the butterfly spring. It will fit through without hurting the spring.
I used Hoppes and a whole bunch of Q-tips to get the grease out. The one case was a real mess.
Here's the Center roller after I cleaned it. On the one case, all I had to do was wipe it down. On the other, I had to put some Hoppes on it to get the petrified grease off. (And when I reassembled that one, I had to put a bit (a very little bit!) of petroleum jelly on the shaft to get the proper stropping tension...)
Here's the case with the post and butterfly spring clipped back on. The post rides in the groove in the middle. You can just see it up in there.
A better view.
- Thread starter
- #75
Once the case was reassembled I put the guard back on the blade. It's better to do it now rather than stropping without the guard as the little ball bearing in the side of the blade will likely fall out otherwise. Simply set the 2-pin side of the guard into the side of the blade opposite the bearing and then clip the other side. Be careful. It's better to push from the back of the blade with the guard sitting on something. It will click right in.
In this case I've attached a spare strop that is painted in Chromium Oxide. Although I've found that CrOX tends to create a rather harsh shave if used alone, it really polished up the edge noticeably. To strop I used the 4-way system described in the ShaveWIKI. I went for a minute per side, making about 2 complete back and forth passes per second, and then flipped the blade. That means that I wason the Crox for about 4 minutes. I started and then after the first minute, rotated the case 180 degrees and continued to strop for another minute. I then rotated the blade 180 and repeated from both sides of the case.
It's probably overkill but it compensates for any odd angles I put on the razor.
I then take the actual strop for the razor and add a bit of Ferric Oxide power. Be warned: a little bit goes a long way and too much gets all over the place very quickly! I work it into the leather addiing a little bit of Fromm's if necessary. Once it's worked in and the excess is removed, using the 4-way technique, I strop the blade again, this time on the FeOx, and only for about 30-45 seconds a side.
In this case I've attached a spare strop that is painted in Chromium Oxide. Although I've found that CrOX tends to create a rather harsh shave if used alone, it really polished up the edge noticeably. To strop I used the 4-way system described in the ShaveWIKI. I went for a minute per side, making about 2 complete back and forth passes per second, and then flipped the blade. That means that I wason the Crox for about 4 minutes. I started and then after the first minute, rotated the case 180 degrees and continued to strop for another minute. I then rotated the blade 180 and repeated from both sides of the case.
It's probably overkill but it compensates for any odd angles I put on the razor.
I then take the actual strop for the razor and add a bit of Ferric Oxide power. Be warned: a little bit goes a long way and too much gets all over the place very quickly! I work it into the leather addiing a little bit of Fromm's if necessary. Once it's worked in and the excess is removed, using the 4-way technique, I strop the blade again, this time on the FeOx, and only for about 30-45 seconds a side.
- Thread starter
- #76
So the one razor is done.
The other ran into a problem in that I discovered that I don't have a whole hone for it. Now this is not necessarily a problem in that it seems to be best to hone outside the case. I like to have the case hone handy for quick touch ups though. What I did is replace the hone with a piece of Luan and a small piece of lapping media.
To install, just open the razor case and insert the non-tabbed end of the media at the bottem, between the case and the lid. Then snap the lid closed. If it's done right, the lapping media is captured on both ends and you can hone normally. (Whoever gets this one: I'm including a decent hone-holder in case you come across the real McCoy.
OK, I've got to wipe both of these down and get them ready to go in the ail.
The other ran into a problem in that I discovered that I don't have a whole hone for it. Now this is not necessarily a problem in that it seems to be best to hone outside the case. I like to have the case hone handy for quick touch ups though. What I did is replace the hone with a piece of Luan and a small piece of lapping media.
To install, just open the razor case and insert the non-tabbed end of the media at the bottem, between the case and the lid. Then snap the lid closed. If it's done right, the lapping media is captured on both ends and you can hone normally. (Whoever gets this one: I'm including a decent hone-holder in case you come across the real McCoy.
OK, I've got to wipe both of these down and get them ready to go in the ail.
Jerry...they look fantastic....I love seeing the craftsmanship that is on this board....we are fortunate to have so many talented members! I can't wait to hear a review of an actual shave....I think these razors are awesome!
I'm in. I've always been intriged by the Rolls.
I'm in. Currently a DE user, but the performance possibilities of a SE razor intrigue me. Add in the idea that these are of such an old vintage, and the mystery is just that much deeper.
I'm in.
I love de razors, but I feel that I'm able to start with se's as its a new experience and another world for the dreaded, shall I even say it, cartridge. DA DAA DAAA!!!
I love de razors, but I feel that I'm able to start with se's as its a new experience and another world for the dreaded, shall I even say it, cartridge. DA DAA DAAA!!!
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