What makes a safety razor smooth and efficient

[ohansen]

I'd appreciate it if you can point me to the threads if this topic was discussed before. I'm not familiar with DEs razors. I hear the Muhle R41 is harsh but efficient, Blackland Blackbird is efficient and less harsh. Charcoal L2 is efficient and smooth, and so on.

I want to know about the geometry stuff I'm intrigued.

 

[Invicta]

I'd appreciate it if you can point me to the threads if this topic was discussed before. I'm not familiar with DEs razors. I hear the Muhle R41 is harsh but efficient, Blackland Blackbird is efficient and less harsh. Charcoal L2 is efficient and smooth, and so on.

I want to know about the geometry stuff I'm intrigued.

Te Shave Wiki is very helpful on this; Safety Razor Parameters: Illustrated and Defined | Badger & Blade
Efficient seems to be used subjectively whereas good technique will give you the best shave.

 

[BigJ]

Te Shave Wiki is very helpful on this; Safety Razor Parameters: Illustrated and Defined | Badger & Blade
Efficient seems to be used subjectively whereas good technique will give you the best shave.

+1! Many parameters contribute to how a razor performs! Complicated indeed.

 

[kingfisher]

The short answer is that nobody really knows.

I like DE razors in which there is not much (if any) blade exposure (defined not as the amount of blade you can see when looking down on the top of the razor, but by how much of the blade sticks out beyond an imaginary line that connects the edge of the baseplate with the edge of the top cap.

Some DE razors have a fair bit of blade exposure; they are all efficient but they have a lot of blade feel which some people don't like. Some razors are neutral with regard to blade exposure; in that case efficiency largely depends on other factors of their geometry, blade gap being one of those factors (blade gap is the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the baseplate. Some razors actually have "negative blade exposure;" that is to say that the blade edge is actually hidden by the imaginary line that connects the edge of the baseplate with the edge of the top cap. It might seem that these razors wouldn't shave at all, but because skin is (more or less) elastic and the shaver can apply a small amount of pressure, they shave. These would, however, be classifed generally as the least efficient.

I find it difficult to predict even what type of razor I will like based on prior preferences. For example, I have enjoyed razors that bend the blade a lot, probably because it adds rigidity to the blade edge. At the same time, though, razors that hold the blade almost perfectly flat have also become favorites (like the iKon S3S, the Tradere, and the Pils).

For me, razors that have a large gap, but virtually no blade exposure hit the sweet spot of smooth and efficient. Your mileage may, and probably will, vary.

 

[Timeclo]

Combination of blade gap, exposure, geometry, and weight of the razor. Some will feel better than others but I feel that this combo is personal to each person. For me, Razorock Mamba 53 seems to be the best fit for a smooth and efficient razor.

 

[mr_houston]

I would add rounding and polishing to the criteria, esp now that we have so many CNC machined razors.

Timeless OC razors area great example. When I received my Game Changer OC, I polished those teeth smoother, and it is a great shaver.

 

[TinyT]

I'd appreciate it if you can point me to the threads if this topic was discussed before. I'm not familiar with DEs razors. I hear the Muhle R41 is harsh but efficient, Blackland Blackbird is efficient and less harsh. Charcoal L2 is efficient and smooth, and so on.

I want to know about the geometry stuff I'm intrigued.

This is a very interesting question and one that I'm currently trying to get to the bottom of in my journal. I believe that blade rigidity is a critical factor in this. To that end the R41 and Blackbird aren't all that different. This doesn't mean that people can't get a very good and smooth feeling, efficient shave from these razors, but if you look at the head design the blade support provided by the base plate is further back from the blade edge than in some other designs, Fatips and vintage Gillettes to name two. In profile, good support can be recognised by observing a blade sandwich.

The following threads have a lot of information on this absorbing subject.

My Grande Journey - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/my-grande-journey.527934/

Damn Comfortable Shave - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/damn-comfortable-shave.526419/

The Great Rigid Blade Experiment - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-great-rigid-blade-experiment.530031/

Razor design and the importance of blade rigidity - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/razor-design-and-the-importance-of-blade-rigidity.478948/

Rigidity in DE Safety Razors - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/rigidity-in-de-safety-razors.555887/

OK, I'm on a "rigid blade" hunt. - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/ok-im-on-a-rigid-blade-hunt.521389/

Damn Comfortable Shave is something of an encyclopedia on shaving. Is there's something you want to know about shaving, it's likely to be in there.

Happy reading!

 

[GaryTha]

The shaver.

Stay in the popularity center of choices for razors, and most will do fine after a few hundred shaves with the same razor.

Those with extremely tough beards may need a larger gap or more exposure.

 

[ShaverAZ]

Keep it simple:
A proven performing razor such as the Gillette Tech of your choice
A moderately sharp blade. Astra SP is a good place to start. GSB, Personna Red or Wilkinsons won't let you down
Soap can make or break an excellent shave. Extra slickness trumps dense lather, but both together are a plus. Willimams, Stirling or ToBS are a great place to start. Save choosing spendy and obscure soaps for after you've reliably perfected your shaves.
A pre shave such as Proraso, Noxzema, or even Dove for Men Face and Hand Cream
It all comes together once you have a solid shave technique of proper razor angle and optimum (light) shaving pressure.

 

[never-stop-learning]

Well designed and proper blade support is, in my opinion, a huge indicator of how smooth a shave it delivers.

YMMV

 

[JuniorShaving]

A lot of variables can affect your shave. Razor blade gap, exposure, what blade you're using, open vs closed comb. Too many factors!

 

[Jhona1971]

The short answer is that nobody really knows.

I like DE razors in which there is not much (if any) blade exposure (defined not as the amount of blade you can see when looking down on the top of the razor, but by how much of the blade sticks out beyond an imaginary line that connects the edge of the baseplate with the edge of the top cap.

Some DE razors have a fair bit of blade exposure; they are all efficient but they have a lot of blade feel which some people don't like. Some razors are neutral with regard to blade exposure; in that case efficiency largely depends on other factors of their geometry, blade gap being one of those factors (blade gap is the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the baseplate. Some razors actually have "negative blade exposure;" that is to say that the blade edge is actually hidden by the imaginary line that connects the edge of the baseplate with the edge of the top cap. It might seem that these razors wouldn't shave at all, but because skin is (more or less) elastic and the shaver can apply a small amount of pressure, they shave. These would, however, be classifed generally as the least efficient.

I find it difficult to predict even what type of razor I will like based on prior preferences. For example, I have enjoyed razors that bend the blade a lot, probably because it adds rigidity to the blade edge. At the same time, though, razors that hold the blade almost perfectly flat have also become favorites (like the iKon S3S, the Tradere, and the Pils).

For me, razors that have a large gap, but virtually no blade exposure hit the sweet spot of smooth and efficient. Your mileage may, and probably will, vary.

I know this an old thread hope you are well. Which razors do you believe fall into the category that you like?

 

[kingfisher]

I know this an old thread hope you are well. Which razors do you believe fall into the category that you like?

I'm fine, thanks.

Since that post I have found the Chiseled Face Legacy, which is yet another example of a large gap, low to zero exposure razor that I find really smooth.

Still like the Pils and the S3S. The S3S is milder. The Pils is a slightly better shaver.

I guess the Legacy is my best discovery over the past few years.

 

[Jhona1971]

I'm fine, thanks.

Since that post I have found the Chiseled Face Legacy, which is yet another example of a large gap, low to zero exposure razor that I find really smooth.

Still like the Pils and the S3S. The S3S is milder. The Pils is a slightly better shaver.

I guess the Legacy is my best discovery over the past few years.

thanks for the reply! Anything a bit less pricey that comes to mind? Like $30-70?

 

[kingfisher]

thanks for the reply! Anything a bit less pricey that comes to mind? Like $30-70?

I like the Razorock Lupo 0.58, but it doesn't really fit the mold I was talking about. This one is a relatively small gap with a bit more blade exposure.

On the face it has a bit more blade feel, but the because of the small gap and the fact that exposure isnt huge, it still feels pretty smooth.

 

[VerbaVolant]

What makes a safety razor smooth...

In my opinion, most of it comes from proper lather (lubrication). Lather, good lather, is paramount for a good shave. After that comes blade and razor, to some degree.

What makes a safety razor... efficient

In my opinion, adequate blade exposure/gap when DE razor is used with proper technique.

 

[Mr Konrad Dundee]

In my opinion, most of it comes from proper lather (lubrication). Lather, good lather, is paramount for a good shave. After that comes blade and razor, to some degree.


In my opinion, adequate blade exposure/gap when DE razor is used with proper technique.

Holy words!
I agree the first thing is the management of the assembly and the lubrication "the foam" then secondly I put my hand "the technique" finally the blade and the razor

 

[tomas1870]

Holy words!
I agree the first thing is the management of the assembly and the lubrication "the foam" then secondly I put my hand "the technique" finally the blade and the razor

I agree. About "the technique", after good lubrication I found very important and game chager also properly strech skin, but not too much just how much needed..

 

[steveclarkus]

I'd appreciate it if you can point me to the threads if this topic was discussed before. I'm not familiar with DEs razors. I hear the Muhle R41 is harsh but efficient, Blackland Blackbird is efficient and less harsh. Charcoal L2 is efficient and smooth, and so on.

I want to know about the geometry stuff I'm intrigued.

I would say a light touch should do it.

 

[DesertIguana]

I'd appreciate it if you can point me to the threads if this topic was discussed before. I'm not familiar with DEs razors. I hear the Muhle R41 is harsh but efficient, Blackland Blackbird is efficient and less harsh. Charcoal L2 is efficient and smooth, and so on.

I want to know about the geometry stuff I'm intrigued.

Bad news is if you face has the Texture of PA Turnpike, you’re never ever going to get a good close, clean shave. Some people Beard is taught as a Finish Nail, the Growth patter in Swirls, and Multidirectional.




Have fellow I am friend with he it King of Ingrown Briar Hairs, if he is not recovering from last bad ingrown, he is work on another Ingrown problem. Precision Tweezers, and Hydrogen Proxcide are his best friends..