Adjustable razors

[walpan]

I have the Rockwell T2SS, and the Rex Konsul. I previously owned the Merkur Progress, Pearl Flexi and tried the Osprey. To Me the absolute best is the Konsul. Highly efficient yet absolutely smooth and comfortable. The Osprey is a great razor, it just didn't work for me.

 

[Stikeyoda]

I adjust per pass according to how much growth I am addressing. I always test a new brand of blade with an adjustable (unless collecting research data). I used to speak at a lot of conference with other activities required multiple shaves in a day and an adjustable meant I could get by with one razor. My non multi shave in a day travel is an everyday shaving stinger, same effect. If I am using non adjustable in my rotation I'll generally have three at the ready, again depending on pass, beard age, and skin sensitivity (too much sun, wind, cold, sand, etc.). Sometimes I have a GEM, AC, & DE at the ready. Such is the fun of our hobby. Keep in mind some of this is as much mental (placebo effect) as physical but both are experientially real.

 

[Stikeyoda]

I adjust per pass according to how much growth I am addressing. I always test a new brand of blade with an adjustable (unless collecting research data). I used to speak at a lot of conference with other activities required multiple shaves in a day and an adjustable meant I could get by with one razor. My non multi shave in a day travel is an everyday shaving stinger, same effect. If I am using non adjustable in my rotation I'll generally have three at the ready, again depending on pass, beard age, and skin sensitivity (too much sun, wind, cold, sand, etc.). Sometimes I have a GEM, AC, & DE at the ready. Such is the fun of our hobby. Keep in mind some of this is as much mental (placebo effect) as physical but both are experientially real.

Should have added I alternate among an Osprey, Sailor, Futur, Variant, and Yaqi Ultima when using and adjustable.

 

[RAD patient]

Adjustables are amateur hour.
Spend the 400 on another Blackbird. Titanium this time.
You can thank me later.

 

[Fiddler]

I’m all for technology and Blackland makes some fantastic kit, but, something is telling me I would regret the purchase. I would appreciate your feedback on how, when, and why you use them.

Many thanks. You’ll either save me $400 or cause me to spend it.

I first tried adjustable like Fatboy, Aristocrat Slim many years ago and did not like them very much.

But the modern crop of adjustables are very well engineered, with great aesthetics and tolerances.

Do they shave well is the only thing that matters....I think many of them do.

They give me flexibility to vary the aggression depending on the stage of shaving (first pass vs third pass)
or area I am shaving (neck ATG vs the Philtrum).

For me, the most important thing about an adjustable is the range it is capable of.
I prefer full range adjustable (Sailor, Taiga) vis-a-vis an adjustable with a moderate range (Eg. Tatara).

I haven't used an Osprey so cannot comment with confidence. But you can buy an Osprey with confidence
because there is a 30-day return window, in case it does not agree with you.

 

[EclipseRedRing]

I do not consider that there is any contradiction in not adjusting an adjustable razor mid shave, or in finding a setting you like and never changing it. That is the point of an adjustable, you can adjust it when you first obtain it so it suits your requirement; that is the reason we do not have a Slim Adjustable Red Tip, Blue Tip, Black Tip etc. Pretty much any man, with any beard, can get a good shave with a Slim Adjustable by finding a setting that suits and never changing it, that is not true with non adjustable razors. You can of course also change the setting if your beard changes with advancing years, again not possible with a non adjustable, aside from loosening the cap etc. All that said, I would choose a Gillette Goodwill over any adjustable.

 

[Psychtec]

We wrote a nice email about the different ways to use an adjustable a while back. I'll probably have that converted into a blog post and share it here.

To summarize it, here are the four ways we think about using an adjustable:

• One level all the time
  • Adjustable lets you try a wide range. You find what works and stick with it.
• Different levels for different days
  • Daily shaving? Keep it lower. Don't shave all weekend and need to mow that beard down? Crank it up to hack through the growth.
• A level for each pass
  • Start with a higher level for WTG growth removal
  • Decrease level for ATG to avoid irritation/nicks
  • Some guys do the exact opposite. It depends on the direction of your passes.
• Changing on the fly
  • Different parts of your face have different needs. Crank it up for easy areas and dial it back for nick-prone areas. Or do the opposite. You learn your face and let the razor adapt to the differing needs.

If you think you'd regret it, either sit this one out or buy it with the expectation that you'll probably return it. Personally, I like using the adjustability of the Osprey more than I expected to. That knob gets adjusted pretty frequently and I would have thought I'd be a set-it-and-forget-it kind of guy.

I have never used or owned an adjustable. With that said.

I would think there is a 5th way to use an adjustable. It would be based on the use and life of the blade.

I am a SE user. I use the GEM PTFE SS. Are there any single edge adjustables, besides the Supply or razors that use different plates?

Start off at a desired setting. During a shave adjust up or down for sensitive or stubborn areas, if necessary. As the blade dulls increase setting as desired. This is if you want to get the most possible uses out of a blade.

The Osprey question.
I agree. Purchase a much less expensive adjustable first. If adjustables end up being your tool of choice, then spend the big bucks $400.

If it ends up not being your thing, use it at a desired setting and just leave it. I hear, with a quality blade, adjustables are really good razors that provide close, comfortable shaves.

Just my thoughts.

 

[DE Steve]

I used a Merkur Progress as a daily shaver for many years and still use it occasionally.

I did use one setting all the time; a setting that would be hard to match by any non-adjustable.

Great shaver, hard to beat a 1955 design still being made.

 

[WThomas0814]

As far as I'm concerned, if you're not going to actually use the adjustments, don't waste your money buying an adjustable. There are also a number of razors with different baseplates available to change up the gap/aggression on a non-adjustable basis.

Which is all great advice but really it'll only work for you if you are one of those seemingly rare people who can do some research, buy judiciously, and only need to go up or down one additional level to find your perfect-for-now razor. With the RazoRock Superslant, for instance, I've tried three plates at around CAD$100 each and have basically called it good although if I can find an unattached c-note somewhere I'd like to try one more.

I don't really have an argument with people who buy an adjustable figuring it's many razors in one and they can find what works somewhere in there. Their money; spent their way; all good. I should also say that "adjustable" to me is an actual mechanical process facilitated by the design of the razor. Trying to up-sell a plain razor by calling it "adjustable" because the owner can replace certain parts or fail to tighten down the razor completely is what grand-dad used to call "the old booshwah." I'll take engineering over fantasy for 200, Alex.

I have one and only one adjustable, the Rex Konsul. While I am perfectly capable of getting a decent shave from just about any old thing, I admit to a fascination with the technology. If you look around for my reviews and SOTDs with the Konsul, you'll see a lot of references to "running it through the gears." My general plan of work is to set it to 3 to do the top of my head and down to ear level. Then I open 'er up all the way to 6.5 to shave WTG in the back. Then crank down to 2 for the first ATG pass, and open up to 4 or 5 for the second ATG pass. I leave it there for ATG on the temples and then wind it up to 6.5 again to shave parts of my face, ATG on the neck, and any touchups that are needed.

I can get the exact same shave with a nonadjustable razor by using a bit more care here and there and accepting a bit of irritation from one ATG pass. Doing two ATG passes with the adjustable is nice because I'm reducing things gradually.

So where does that leave us? You don't need an adjustable. You think you might want an adjustable. You could spend more than that on several nonadjustable razors, or on several baseplates for a razor line that has them. On the other hand, one way to use an adjustable is to set up your own personal best fit to each moment's shaving conditions. You want to get into the nuances, get your pen out and write the cheque.

I love my adjustable slant. Shaves like a dream. I've got other razors that can do as well using technique instead of technology. Sometimes I want one, sometimes the other. In the end there's only one way to tell if it's for you!

O.H.

Wow. A lot to consider. I thank you for your detailed response!

Adjustables are amateur hour.
Spend the 400 on another Blackbird. Titanium this time.
You can thank me later.

I’m intrigued by this. I have a stainless steel Blackbird (satin finish); how does the Ti version differ, other than the obvious and likely massive weight difference?

 

[RAD patient]

Wow. A lot to consider. I thank you for your detailed response!

I’m intrigued by this. I have a stainless steel Blackbird (satin finish); how does the Ti version differ, other than the obvious and likely massive weight difference?

Well, this is awkward.
I don't actually have a Blackbird yet but it is the only razor on my radar. You seem to enjoy it like many others here on the forum. My guess was you already had the SS version since you (unlike people who do have it seem to do) didn't mention titanium.
If I would have the funds I would want to have both the stainless steel and the titanium because I don't have a preference for light or weighty razors and wanna try both. I thought you might too.
Therefor my advice would be get the titanium Blackbird.
All my adjustables are on the setting I liked them the most and only move when I clean and oil them. Gillette just wanted to make one razor to cut on manufacturing costs is my guess. The need to adjust halfway during a shave is lost on me.

 

[House Boy]

Go for it, you'll never get a good nights sleep until you see the shiny beauty in your shave den.

 

[WThomas0814]

Go for it, you'll never get a good nights sleep until you see the shiny beauty in your shave den.

How did you know?

 

[House Boy]

How did you know?

Been there, many times.

 

[Umma2gumma]

I’ve never really understood the application, to be honest.

I can, I guess, imagine a new wet shaver buying one to start out mild, then move up in aggression as experience and confidence increase, eventually arriving at the “sweet spot” and never adjusting it again.

I’ve had an Osprey in my cart for weeks now, but, at nearly $400, I can’t force myself to buy it. I already own three Blacklands (Blackbird, Vector, and Saber L2). Per the website, Levels 4-6 would be compatible to my Vector and Saber, and Levels 7-9 to my Blackbird (which is odd, since I think the Blackbird and Vector are quite similar in aggression and the Saber is very mild).

Gents that use them… do you, say, do first pass on high setting and subsequent passes on lower settings? Do you just decide daily if you want efficient or mild shaves?

I have five razors in weekly rotation, the three Blacklands, a Feather SR, and a Kai Captain Woody. Where would an adjustable fit into my rotation?

I’m all for technology and Blackland makes some fantastic kit, but, something is telling me I would regret the purchase. I would appreciate your feedback on how, when, and why you use them.

Many thanks. You’ll either save me $400 or cause me to spend it.

I love adjustables above anything else. A really good adjustable razor allows me to vary the aggressiveness of the shave without changing the other variables like weight, dynamics, handle length etc. My top favorite razor is Parker Variant OC, and before I bought it, it was the regular Parker Variant. Great, smooth, highly predictable shaves that I can dial for how my skin feels that day, or what blade I am using. Set it to 1.5 out of 5 if I want to let my skin rest, set it to 4 if I want to get another shave out of a well used blade. Set it to 2 with a fresh Feather, set it to 2.5-3 with an Astra. Beats changing multiple razors to get the same effect.

I would happily spend a few hundred dollars if I could get an adjustable as efficient and smooth as Variant but made from stainless with fine detailing. Could be my lifetime razor.

 

[DesertIguana]

I’ve never really understood the application, to be honest.

I can, I guess, imagine a new wet shaver buying one to start out mild, then move up in aggression as experience and confidence increase, eventually arriving at the “sweet spot” and never adjusting it again.

I’ve had an Osprey in my cart for weeks now, but, at nearly $400, I can’t force myself to buy it. I already own three Blacklands (Blackbird, Vector, and Saber L2). Per the website, Levels 4-6 would be compatible to my Vector and Saber, and Levels 7-9 to my Blackbird (which is odd, since I think the Blackbird and Vector are quite similar in aggression and the Saber is very mild).

Gents that use them… do you, say, do first pass on high setting and subsequent passes on lower settings? Do you just decide daily if you want efficient or mild shaves?

I have five razors in weekly rotation, the three Blacklands, a Feather SR, and a Kai Captain Woody. Where would an adjustable fit into my rotation?

I’m all for technology and Blackland makes some fantastic kit, but, something is telling me I would regret the purchase. I would appreciate your feedback on how, when, and why you use them.

Many thanks. You’ll either save me $400 or cause me to spend it.

If you got the ADJUSTABLE BUG, can go wrong with Gillette Vintage Adjustable.

Slim, Fatboy, or Black. Should be able to pickup something to shave with under 80 bucks, on eBay,

 

[Umma2gumma]

If you got the ADJUSTABLE BUG, can go wrong with Gillette Vintage Adjustable.

Slim, Fatboy, or Black. Should be able to pickup something to shave with under 80 bucks, on eBay,

For some reason, I just can't get the same quality shave out of my Super 109 as I am getting from either of my Variants. It's way too mild up to 5 and then gets a bit aggressive. Still a very good quality shave, just not as smooth AND efficient at the same time.

 

[DesertIguana]

For some reason, I just can't get the same quality shave out of my Super 109 as I am getting from either of my Variants. It's way too mild up to 5 and then gets a bit aggressive. Still a very good quality shave, just not as smooth AND efficient at the same time.

Then use what works best, sell, trade, or gift away what don’t work.

I live life using idea if I do not use it, have not used it in 6 month, try and sell it. Last resort is gift to local thrift shop, or vets shelter.

 

[MikeFish]

With the 30 day trial, it’s tempting..

 

[WThomas0814]

With the 30 day trial, it’s tempting..

It was. Truly. I wanted my “last razor,” an overdue retirement gift for myself (who needs a Rolex, anyway?). I ordered a Carbon CX-Ti/Web since my original plan was to get a titanium razor.

I dearly love my three Blackland razors and Shane does a fantastic job with packaging, shipping, communication… all-in-all, a great company. I really couldn’t pick a favorite among them, they are all so good. I just don’t think I’m the right guy for an adjustable and I couldn’t see getting a Ti version of any of my stainless steel razors.

Of course, last razor-shmast razor…. I’m on the wait list for a Lambda Athena. Should’ve bought the Rolex.

 

[Lord NSIC]

I have Gillette Slims and Super Adjustables, but I don't care for the length of the handles or small heads and seldom use them. Fat Boys on the other hand, I think I've tried every setting from 3 to 9 (don't remember trying the lower settings as they're pretty mild). I tried starting out at a higher setting and dialing down after the first pass, but after my technique improved I've pretty much settled on an 8 and leaving it there the whole shave if it's been 2 or more days since my last shave or set on 7 the whole time. 9 seems a bit harsh gap wise, but I can do it for a single one and done pass.