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About sharpening a wood turning tool ... if it is HSS, you can do some initial shaping with a file but you need to make sure you are getting a consistent bevel all around. I also follow filing (or grinding) with a fine honing stone then a hard stone and an Arkansas stone ... again, all at a consistent bevel. If I want a really polished edge, I have a piece of 1200 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper adhered to a flat tile and use it,wet, to put a finely polished edge on the tools.

If you have carbide tipped tools, all bets are off!
 
Do NOT buy carbide Tools,once you use them you will never go back:)
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They are a little spendy but is a totally new experiance with any material,except plastics,carbide and phenolics do not work.
After a year or so,remove the cutters,flat side down a few up and downs on your DMT 320,they are brand new again.
 
Do NOT buy carbide Tools,once you use them you will never go back:)

I don't know about that, you can get a keener edge with HSS and you can grind custom shaped tools.
When I need a tool a different shape I can go over to the grinder and modify a tool, I have some old Buck turning tool that I started out with back in 86 and now I've modified some of then as right and left handed beading tools.
Nice set thought.
 
I sharpen my tools with my KMG belt grinder. Let's see, with the variable speed DC motor, that comes to $1K. Probably not cost effective for turners. There are sharpening videos for turning tools available, and a cheap bench grinder with one smooth wheel does a good job.
 
I don't know about that, you can get a keener edge with HSS and you can grind custom shaped tools.
When I need a tool a different shape I can go over to the grinder and modify a tool, I have some old Buck turning tool that I started out with back in 86 and now I've modified some of then as right and left handed beading tools.
Nice set thought.

Bob, question, do you harden your HSS, or just use it without hardening? What kind of steel do you use? O1? ????? I made a couple of tools out of O1, and haven't got around to hardening them - they seem to work fine without it.
 
You can buy HSS and O1 pre-hardened is suitable sizes. As long as you keep it cool while grinding you can shape and use without heat treat.

Phil
 
Thanks, Pkrankow - I made mine out of O1 drill rod, not pre heat treated. I'll harden them next time I fire up the forge.
Skip
 
Bob, question, do you harden your HSS, or just use it without hardening? What kind of steel do you use? O1? ????? I made a couple of tools out of O1, and haven't got around to hardening them - they seem to work fine without it.

I haven't made any tools from scratch for the wood lathe, when I built the lathe in 1986 I bought a set of buck lathe tools, I've replaced most of them with tools from Penn Stat Industries.
I needed some specialty tools for doing the bead on the inside curve of a bulb shaped handle, so I reground some of the old tools.
I used a pink wheel and was careful not to burn the steel.
I didn't reharden and temper them.
 
So, when is Bob's Brush Works opening?

:D

I've always made brushes and I specialize in long handle sets.
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The problem with selling brushes is everyone get their brush heads from the same sources mainly Golden Nip and all the guys who used to be in the pen turning fad now want to turn brush handle, they've driven the prices down, so it's a buyers market, you can't charge more even if your a better turner.
 
Forges I have a few as well, also some anvils I'm sure you can name one brand of anvil, but you are really good if you can name two.

I noticed this thread a couple days ago, it got me interested in a small lathe. Today on the way home there is a yard sale a block before my home so I stop you never want to pass up a chance for a razor. No razors but this little table top lathe $35.00. I bought it and it is sweet for turning handles max size is 4" by 8" length.
 
To add to the tool chatter comments. You have to go slow and make sure your tool is sharp. I have found that higher speeds work well at clost to 2000rpm. However if you hit a dull spot on your tool or try to take to much off it doesnt just chip it explodes! I ended up sending pieces all over the place.
 
To add to the tool chatter comments. You have to go slow and make sure your tool is sharp. I have found that higher speeds work well at clost to 2000rpm. However if you hit a dull spot on your tool or try to take to much off it doesnt just chip it explodes! I ended up sending pieces all over the place.

That's why I don't like turning polymers, you can spend a lot of time on a piece, catch an edge and ruin it in a heart beat.
Wood is much more forgiving and since it has grain strength it not likely to just snap in half.
 
Forges I have a few as well, also some anvils I'm sure you can name one brand of anvil, but you are really good if you can name two.

I noticed this thread a couple days ago, it got me interested in a small lathe. Today on the way home there is a yard sale a block before my home so I stop you never want to pass up a chance for a razor. No razors but this little table top lathe $35.00. I bought it and it is sweet for turning handles max size is 4" by 8" length.

(I have a Trenton 168#, made in Columbus Ohio in 1912 Sweet anvil)

Sounds like happy fortune finding that lathe. You can do a whole lot in a 4x8 inch envelope.

Phil
 
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that has had a piece of plastic blow up when I make a mistake. I have found that using a tool with a small contact point works best. Most of my "explosions" have been the result of using a large tool, like a bowl gouge. If I am carefull, I get good results. If not - shrapnel. I've been making my own polyester blanks, so the mistakes haven't been too expensive.
Happy turning!
 
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