So I've looked admiringly at the pictures some of you post of your equipment, especially in the B/S/T, and as I've tried to take pics to ask questions about one thing or another, I end up taking 20 shots to get one that's useful. I use a small Canon point&shoot (don't remember the model number). I know that if I want something like a datecode to show up, I have to use the closeup setting (the one with a flower), but beyond that, I'm almost at a loss. If I use the flash, everything is washed out in the glare. No flash = yellow or too dark to see. Do i just have to set up a really bright lighting arrangement in order to take these pictures or is there another secret?
How do you get good detail pictures on equipment?
- Thread starter Patrologia
- Start date
It might be tough to get that level of detail with a point-n-shoot-type camera. What you really want is to have the camera 'close' to the object in question either physically or with a telephoto lens. The problem with that type of camera is that when you move the lens close, you also move the flash close and that causes everything to wash out.
The short answer is that if it was me, I'd take the whole setup outside on a bright day and shoot it there so you don't have to worry about the flash. Stay out of direct sunlight though or you'll have other lighting issues.
Maybe others will have more experience with cameras like yours and will be able to suggest possible settings changes that might work for you.
Good luck!
The short answer is that if it was me, I'd take the whole setup outside on a bright day and shoot it there so you don't have to worry about the flash. Stay out of direct sunlight though or you'll have other lighting issues.
Maybe others will have more experience with cameras like yours and will be able to suggest possible settings changes that might work for you.
Good luck!
I have a small Canon as well. Generally I try to arrange the best lighting possible, use the macro setting, turn off the flash, prop or otherwise steady the camera, and enable the 2-second shutter timer so I can press and release so there won't be any camera motion from my finger on the button.
And even then getting a great shot is iffy.
And even then getting a great shot is iffy.
Yep, using a self timer is a great technique. Even if you're sure that you're holding the camera perfectly steady, pushing the button always causes some motion and hurts picture detail, unless you're careful and the camera is sitting on something solid.
Also, that flower setting is your Macro setting, which is for extreme closeups. So aside from good lighting and trying the self timer with the macro feature turned on, that's as good as you'll likely be able to get with a point-shoot.
Also, that flower setting is your Macro setting, which is for extreme closeups. So aside from good lighting and trying the self timer with the macro feature turned on, that's as good as you'll likely be able to get with a point-shoot.
+1
this is my method exactly - with my p&s Canon.
a little tripod is important for long exposure times (I have a flexible contraption that's pretty useful - saw it in some catalogue & found it at Wal-mart).
and getting a great shot is iffy.
remember if you use your macro setting you are very close to the subject; a slight change in camera angle or location can really skew the perspective of the pic.
good thread - I'll be watching this!
I also use a canon with point and shoot capability. Power shot TX1. However I use the manual mode for close work. It really helps to have a focusing/light meter to tell you if your object is in focus and enough light at your desired object distance. As a minimum I would recommend a camera with a manual mode, a macro and super macro setting, on/off for the flash, tripod threads, ISO adjustment or digital equivalent. Send PM if you are interested in more info.
Mark
Mark
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all of the above and practice, practice, practice. digital costs you nothing but time.
Some point-and-shoots have an overexposure. Like a +- 1, 2, etc. That helps with taking close photos. Not sure if your's has it or not but you might want to check.
Great thread. I use an 8 year old Minolta DiMage Z3. It works for me. I mess around with the macros, white balance and shutter speed. I find that using a tripod helps and lately I've been using a light tent with three lights.
I seem to snap of 30 or 40 pics, moving the camera angle and lights until I have one I like.....maybe someday I'll get some good ones.....I'll keep practicing.
I seem to snap of 30 or 40 pics, moving the camera angle and lights until I have one I like.....maybe someday I'll get some good ones.....I'll keep practicing.
This is another important point -- you can't expect every shot to be perfect. I usually take 11 or 12 to get one good one (and I still don't always get one that I really like), but the beauty of digital photography is that you can take an almost unlimited number of pictures and separate the good from the bad almost immediately.
Enjoy!
With a point-and-shoot, this is what you have to do.
First, turn off the flash. Unless you can point the flash in another direction, you will almost always have glare or hot spots at close distances. Without the flash, the camera will need a much larger shutter speed to expose properly. This is why you will also need a tri-pod. With those larger shutter speeds (SLOWER SHUTTER) the camera needs to be rock steady to avoid blurring the picture. If you don't have a tri-pod, set the camera down on a table or something else stable. Then use the 2 second timer and take remove your hands from the camera. The slower shutter speed will allow enough light to expose your subject without using the flash, and the tri-pod will remove any camera shake (blur) from the equation.
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That's right on the money. Add in this and I think the answer is complete:
You need to have diffuse light. There are lots of ways to diffuse light. Here are some:
Take the picture using light from a north facing window.
Either buy or make your own light box. To make one, take a large cardboard box, cut out the sides and tape some white paper into the openings. Put your object in the box and shine some light the outside of the paper.
Cover a desklamp with a piece of white cotton such as a handkerchief and shine that onto the object.
Make a "tent" out of gauze to diffuse overhead light.
Use your imagination, there are a million ways to do this.
I find this method to be better than the macro setting on (at least my own) digital camera
I just zoom out all the way (though not into digital zoom) and then move the camera in close. Sometimes it takes a few tries to autofocus, but then the pictures are much clearer
I just zoom out all the way (though not into digital zoom) and then move the camera in close. Sometimes it takes a few tries to autofocus, but then the pictures are much clearer
What everyone else said:
1. Photograph in good light ( natural or artificial )
1. Turn off flash
2. Use Macro Mode ( close focus )
3. Don't use zoom, take camera back to it's widest angle ( most light )
4. Get as close as you can ( will depend on your camera )
5. Brace your arms somehow, edge or top of table. Use both hands to hold the camera as steady as possible . (Digitals with only screen are the worse thing and are not conducive to steady shots ) Or use a tripod
6. Take as many shots as you can. One will turn out all right .
7. If you have image stabiliser on your camera, turn it on.
If you're having issues with focus etc. turn off macro, you will have to take your pic from further way, then use something like Irfanview to crop the pic just to give you the detail you want. Most cameras have enough pixels to do this these days.
Hope this helps.
1. Photograph in good light ( natural or artificial )
1. Turn off flash
2. Use Macro Mode ( close focus )
3. Don't use zoom, take camera back to it's widest angle ( most light )
4. Get as close as you can ( will depend on your camera )
5. Brace your arms somehow, edge or top of table. Use both hands to hold the camera as steady as possible . (Digitals with only screen are the worse thing and are not conducive to steady shots ) Or use a tripod
6. Take as many shots as you can. One will turn out all right .
7. If you have image stabiliser on your camera, turn it on.
If you're having issues with focus etc. turn off macro, you will have to take your pic from further way, then use something like Irfanview to crop the pic just to give you the detail you want. Most cameras have enough pixels to do this these days.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for all the tips, I look forward to contributing some high quality images of some shaving goods once I get the hang of properly using my Canon Rebel XT.
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks,
I will be trying some of these tips out as soon as I have another chance to feed my AD!
I will be trying some of these tips out as soon as I have another chance to feed my AD!
