When Does It Make Sense to Consider Buying a More Aggressive DE Razor?

[Lane101]

Hi, First a thanks to new B&B member @Plague Doctor , who's post inspired the creation of this thread.

Curious as to when it makes sense for someone to consider moving to a more aggressive DE razor as I've struggled to understand their benefits beyond a slightly quicker shave.

My razors range from a really mild King C. Gillette (KCG) to moderate Weishi and T2 adjustable and I've found that, with some minor adjustments to technique, it's easy to get BBS shaves with any of them. With my Weishi I just let the weight of the razor do the work while with the KCG a press down a little and add a partial touch-up pass where a ride the cap (different razor angle ) to get to BBS. Takes another 30 seconds or so. With my Weishi there is a slight chance of a weeper while almost no chance of one with my KCG. Funny how most of the time that occasional weeper occurs when I rotate from the KCG to my Weishi and forget to not press down on the razor.

With my T2 set to #3 (slightly milder than my Weishi but more aggressive then my KCG) I get BBS with a little pressure without the touch up pass. I played with the more aggressive setting and saw little benefit worth the increased risk of weepers.

What are the benefits beyond some time savings from using a more aggressive razor that may also come with more weepers? For example is one necessary for unusually thick beards or situations where one has not shaved for a few days? I've seen folks recommend a more aggressive razor for that reason and wonder if an improved technique or mild open comb razor would do the trick with more safety? See the thread linked below where a mild open comb was sought to solve a whisker tugging issue due to occasional infrequent shaves.

I've seen some posts around needing an aggressive razor due to sensitive skin as it allows a DFS in as little as a single pass. That said my Weishi and T2 easily deliver DFSs in a single pass (with some minor touch up) without the aggressiveness.

Realize YMMV always applies and that some fellow members may just prefer the additional blade feel from a razor with more blade gap and exposure.

Are there significant benefits beyond some time savings or are more aggressive razors really more of a personal preference choice?

Link regarding mild Open Comb razors:

Recommendations for a mild open comb razor (or alternative if such a thing doesn't exist!)?

My regular razors are all mild closed combs (Edwin Jagger DE86, Gillette 58 TV Special Superspeed, Gillette Slim Adjustable, Gillette Sportsman Tech, Wilkinson Sword Sticky, Gillette King C) paired with sharper blades (BIC Chrome Platinum's and Israeli Reds mainly), but every so often I have a...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[JL 52]

I think you highlighted the main reason to go to a more efficient razor; getting to the your desired level of closeness in fewer passes. For the folks with sensitive skin, more passes = more blade contact = more risk of irritation.

 

[Plague Doctor]

Hi, First a thanks to new B&B member @Plague Doctor , who's post inspired the creation of this thread.

Curious as to when it makes sense for someone to consider moving to a more aggressive DE razor as I've struggled to understand their benefits beyond a slightly quicker shave.

My razors range from a really mild King C. Gillette (KCG) to moderate Weishi and T2 adjustable and I've found that, with some minor adjustments to technique, it's easy to get BBS shaves with any of them. With my Weishi I just let the weight of the razor do the work while with the KCG a press down a little and add a partial touch-up pass where a ride the cap (different razor angle ) to get to BBS. Takes another 30 seconds or so. With my Weishi there is a slight chance of a weeper while almost no chance of one with my KCG. Funny how most of the time that occasional weeper occurs when I rotate from the KCG to my Weishi and forget to not press down on the razor.

With my T2 set to #3 (slightly milder than my Weishi but more aggressive then my KCG) I get BBS with a little pressure without the touch up pass. I played with the more aggressive setting and saw little benefit worth the increased risk of weepers.

What are the benefits beyond some time savings from using a more aggressive razor that may also come with more weepers? For example is one necessary for unusually thick beards or situations where one has not shaved for a few days? I've seen folks recommend a more aggressive razor for that reason and wonder if an improved technique or mild open comb razor would do the trick with more safety? See the thread linked below where a mild open comb was sought to solve a whisker tugging issue due to occasional infrequent shaves.

I've seen some posts around needing an aggressive razor due to sensitive skin as it allows a DFS in as little as a single pass. That said my Weishi and T2 easily deliver DFSs in a single pass (with some minor touch up) without the aggressiveness.

Realize YMMV always applies and that some fellow members may just prefer the additional blade feel from a razor with more blade gap and exposure.

Are there significant benefits beyond some time savings or are more aggressive razors really more of a personal preference choice?

Link regarding mild Open Comb razors:

Recommendations for a mild open comb razor (or alternative if such a thing doesn't exist!)?

My regular razors are all mild closed combs (Edwin Jagger DE86, Gillette 58 TV Special Superspeed, Gillette Slim Adjustable, Gillette Sportsman Tech, Wilkinson Sword Sticky, Gillette King C) paired with sharper blades (BIC Chrome Platinum's and Israeli Reds mainly), but every so often I have a...

www.badgerandblade.com

Well i'm honored. Does this mean I won a prize like a more aggressive razor? Just kidding.

That's pretty much was I was asking - My Merkur 34c is ok, but really the only experience other than from an antique Gillette which is more of something I bought for sentimental reasons i would rather not discuss on a public forum.

I was just looking at different razors online and in chats and saw the "aggressive" word being used alot. i am with you, why would one (that isn't a sadist) want something more prone to slicing up his face? what's the risk vs. reward factor? So many answers that are different, don't know if I understand it better or worse then before I asked, definitely won't ask for a razor recommendation, LOL.

Honestly I think I get what most people were saying about aggressive razors.

i'm kind of shy and believe this is the longest post i've ever made online.

The Plague Doctor

 

[Lane101]

Well i'm honored. Does this mean I won a prize like a more aggressive razor? Just kidding.

That's pretty much was I was asking - My Merkur 34c is ok, but really the only experience other than from an antique Gillette which is more of something I bought for sentimental reasons i would rather not discuss on a public forum.

I was just looking at different razors online and in chats and saw the "aggressive" word being used alot. i am with you, why would one (that isn't a sadist) want something more prone to slicing up his face? what's the risk vs. reward factor? So many answers that are different, don't know if I understand it better or worse then before I asked, definitely won't ask for a razor recommendation, LOL.

Honestly I think I get what most people were saying about aggressive razors.

i'm kind of shy and believe this is the longest post i've ever made online.

The Plague Doctor

Thank you for your kind words and really well written post. A big driver here is personal preference. While not for many of us, I fully respect that some here prefer the performance tradeoffs that come with an aggressive razor. Another factor may be a preference for really high-end collectable razors that also tend to be more aggressive.

My take is purely functional with a preference for the mildest reasonably priced razors that can do the job. My understanding is that your 34C is a mild to moderate razor. By "OK" how is it working for you?

From what I've read your Merkur 34C is similar to my Rockwell T2 adjustable at roughly the #3 setting. If you do decide to explore alternative levels of aggressiveness consider getting yourself a Rockwell T2 (if you want TTO convenience) or a Rockwell 6S/6C adjustable if you prefer a 3 piece razor. Ideally wait until their next major sale.

I've learned a lot here since returning to DE shaving a little over five years ago. Definitely take advantage of the available knowledge. You may want to consider posting a summary of how you shave and other products (brushes, blades, soaps, creams, etc.) that you use and how they work for you.

 

[1e4]

I think you highlighted the main reason to go to a more efficient razor; getting to the your desired level of closeness in fewer passes. For the folks with sensitive skin, more passes = more blade contact = more risk of irritation.

I think this is it.

Also, blade gap and blade feel aren’t necessarily the same thing. For example, the GC 1.05 has a substantial blade gap, but still pretty gentle on blade feel, while the Blackbird or a low gap Lupo is the opposite. For me, the GC 1.05 really works. I haven’t had as much luck with the other type.

If mild razors work for you, that’s great! But this is definitelt YMMV territory.

 

[lctrcbddha]

I'm new to safety razors, and a head shaver. I'm quickly moving up in "aggression" looking for more efficiency - which to me means a closer shave that requires less pressure, touchups, and buffing - for both time and comfort reasons. And by "quickly" I mean faster than is likely generally advisable (or that my wallet is entirely comfortable with).

The trade-off has been that each new razor/plate initially requires me to slow down and really focus on my technique (or else...). Then I'm able to speed up again for a better result in less time and with less irritation. I expect I will have exceeded my goldilocks when I'm not able to "click" with something new and more aggressive.

I also find it fun and interesting, so...

That all makes sense to me, but of course YMMV. For background I'd been shaving my head with cartridges for nearly 20 years. I've yet to try anything actually considered "aggressive" - at the moment I'm using a Razorock Superslant L2+ (so about "medium").

 

[Mr. Shavington]

I believe all a more aggressive razor does is widen the range of angles where the razor will cut efficiently. If the blade is more exposed then you can afford to get your angle a bit wrong and the blade edge will still be on your skin. It’s an aid for imperfect technique (though some shavers also prefer a stronger blade feel when they shave - but most just want an efficient shave as comfortably as possible). The price you pay for a more exposed blade is a harsher shave. But you might find that this is still more comfortable overall than doing repeated passes or applying pressure with a more mild razor that you struggle to maintain the optimal angle with successfully on parts of your face.

But a more aggressive razor isn’t really any more efficient than a mild razor - as long as the blade edge is on your skin correctly the blade cuts exactly the same. So I’d say it’s fine to try a more aggressive razor, but don’t start collecting them because over time your shaving technique will improve and you’ll learn to get exactly the same results from mild razors, which will be more comfortable.

While you might find it easier to get close shaves with a more aggressive razor, I’m not sure it helps you improve your technique. It just allows you to get away with deficiencies in your technique, so it might actually reinforce poor technique and slow your learning.

What you could try instead is to use your milder razor to show you where you’re getting your angle wrong, and between shaves think about what you could try differently to get a better result in the areas you weren’t satisfied with (you didn’t get a close enough shave, or you got irritation because you added pressure or went over the spot too many times). It’s difficult to maintain the optimal shaving angle when your face is full of curves and hollows and corners, so it takes time and practice. Things that often help include stretching your skin to make it flatter, using much shorter strokes (so you’re not trying to compensate your angle across a curved surface with long strokes), going slower and concentrating on the angle, using as light a touch as you can (adding pressure is counter-productive because it pushes the razor into your skin and makes it less flat - less pressure and correcting the angle is the solution, not adding more pressure). You can also try more advanced techniques like holding the razor slightly diagonally so when you do your stroke the blade is also slicing the hair a bit).

Good luck, and always keep asking questions. There’s stuff to learn but everybody gets there in the end. Your face and hair are unique to you, so some of it you can only figure out for yourself. You get there quicker by trying things and learning from each shave.

 

[Mitzie]

With wider razor blade angles, blade exposere and blade gap comes the risk of irritation, cuts and nicks. That said, you might enjoy the same shave efficiency as a milder razor with fewer passes, but don't push it, in seeking ultimate closeness of shave with a more aggressive razor.

 

[helicopter]

Even feeling the blade and scraping skin with the blade, though generally undesirable, can have benefits like tactile feedback and exfoliation. They aren't things I look to max out, like with a Rex razor, but I don't want them to disappear on every shave.

 

[Iridian]

You trade comfort and security for an easier to achieve "perfect" close BBS.
With an aggressive razor it is much easier due to usually much more angle variety as @Mr. Shavington already pointed out in detail, and as long as you don't mind the increased aggression, that's the better choice for you.

But where your sweet spot is, how much security and smoothness, mildness you want to trade in for efficiency, that is up to you and subject to experimentation.

Basically, you might have to try quite some razors to find exactly what you want. But for me that is part of the fun of the shaving hobby.

 

[Sascoman]

“So I’d say it’s fine to try a more aggressive razor, but don’t start collecting them because over time your shaving technique will improve and you’ll learn to get exactly the same results from mild razors, which will be more comfortable.” @Mr. Shavington

This

 

[musicman1951]

There are a lot of factors a work here. The first one is probably that you're talking about humans and they like what they like. Logic and reason aren't necessarily a requirement in the choice.

There is a great variety in beard hair. My former colleague was a big, tough phy. ed. teacher who had a blonde/red beard like a 13 year old boy. He shaved every other day and you couldn't tell if it was the shaving day or skipped day. Some people have beard hair like wire. There is no earthly reason for offering the same razor to both. Some beards require a sharper blade and a more aggressive razor.

 

[WetShaveVet]

Agreeing with @Mr. Shavington and @Mitzie. Nearly 50 years of shaving with a safety razor here and as said above, if the edge of the blade touches your skin, it is efficient. I think I have an average beard and one of my favourite razors is an Edwin Jagger DE89. Sometimes spoken of here as a beginner razor. I guess I am still a beginner.

 

[Frito Ray]

Satisfying the need to scratch that itch.


It could open up a new world to discover, or close it completely and allow you to explore elsewhere. Win-win.

 

[Phoenixkh]

Satisfying the need to scratch that itch.


It could open up a new world to discover, or close it completely and allow you to explore elsewhere. Win-win.

I bought a R41 razor head only. I wanted to experience what others were talking about. One WTG pass let me know, I’m not a fan of blade forward designs. Itch scratched. <eg>

 

[LuckyGlenn]

Even with more aggressive razors i have tried, it still takes the same amount of passes to get a great shave. Most of my favorite razors are "beginner razors". The only time a reach for more aggressive open combs is when I'm shaving off a weeks worth of mustache and goatee.

 

[StewB]

I pretty much agree with what was said earlier. In my admittedly limited experience, a "mild" razor limits the blade's exposure to the skin such that you have to consistently maintain the correct angle, whereas a more "aggressive" design is more forgiving of angle.

Because I'm just not that skilled in maintaining angle, more "aggressive" razors usually work better for me. When I use a "mild" razor (such as the Mühle R89) I end up with more "blade to face" time, increasing my chances of skin irritation; if I use a more "aggressive" razor, there's less "blade to face" time, a more consistent shave, and less chance of irritation.

One thing to consider is that a "mild" razor is probably more forgiving of too much pressure than an "aggressive" razor. But once I learned how to use a lighter touch, I usually get better performance from more "aggressive" razors.

 

[Plague Doctor]

I'm leaning at looking at a Canadian Manufacturer Razor Rock Game Changer or an adjustable razor. There is an adjustable razor that has an off white bottom that seems to turn from 1-9 giving you a mild up to an aggressive shave depending on the dial setup - am I right about this?

The Game Changer has different heads and from what I understand is you need to only buy the 1 full razor and that razor can take any of their heads made for the game changer, So if what I ordered at first didn't work out, I would just have to purchase a part instead of a whole new setup. Is this correct?

Also saw some posts about other razors from Razor Rock called a Lupo & Mamba. but the game changer seems to be loved more and the heads and razor is cheaper, but haven't ruled out anything yet but the Henson razors or an older Gillette. Nothing personal against them, I would just prefer to have something newer.

Plague Doctor

 

[1e4]

The Game Changer has different heads and from what I understand is you need to only buy the 1 full razor and that razor can take any of their heads made for the game changer, So if what I ordered at first didn't work out, I would just have to purchase a part instead of a whole new setup. Is this correct?

Also saw some posts about other razors from Razor Rock called a Lupo & Mamba. but the game changer seems to be loved more and the heads and razor is cheaper

That’s right. With the GC if you want to change things up you can swap in a different baseplate. The top cap and handle can stay the same.

The Lupo and Mamba have their merits, but the GC is more of a classic design. Maybe that has a broader appeal.

 

[Eben Stone]

Are there significant benefits beyond some time savings or are more aggressive razors really more of a personal preference choice?

IMO, it's all about how much blade feel you want.

It takes skill to achieve an irritation free shave using an aggressive razor. But getting a close shave using an aggressive razor should be included free with the package. I try the most aggressive razors I can find, and improve my technique until there is zero alum feedback.

Rumor has it that it takes skill to get a close shave using a mild razor. I wouldn't know. Maybe I'm lazy, but I have no interest in learning how to use a mild razor. I find aggressive razors much more intuitive to use.