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I'm really excited to try temp control on my Derringers. Any advice on nickel builds? The shop I go to only has 26g. I checked it out on Steam Engine and I need 13 wraps on a 5/32 bit for a single coil to ohm out above .15. Seems like a lot of wraps!
 
I'm really excited to try temp control on my Derringers. Any advice on nickel builds? The shop I go to only has 26g. I checked it out on Steam Engine and I need 13 wraps on a 5/32 bit for a single coil to ohm out above .15. Seems like a lot of wraps!
From what I have heard you want tempered/annealed nickel wire, as it is a bit easier to work with. Yes you will need to do a ton of wraps, and you will need to be gentle with your wick as the coils are fragile as anything.
 
Okay, so picked up some 26g nickel wire today and put a single coil, 12 wraps on my trusty blue screwdriver. Ohms out at .08 so I'm within the limits of the mod. Have my Derringer running at 500F at 37.5 watts. Absolutely loving life right now!
 
I haven't tried temp control and haven't read up much on it. Is the temp setting an upper limit that the mod won't let you go over, or does it use it as an output target in place of watts?
 
It's an upper limit, so if wattage is set at 40, it will push toward that target until it hits the target temperature. It will back down the power to maintain that temp as well.
If your wattage is set too high in relation to your temp, you'll never hit the wattage that you're asking of the device. Make sense?
 
I haven't tried temp control and haven't read up much on it. Is the temp setting an upper limit that the mod won't let you go over, or does it use it as an output target in place of watts?

The idea of wattage on temp control is a bit weird to me, a lot of people don't get why you set wattage when you set temp.

Essentially nickel changes resistance with temperature, which means at 200F it will have resistance X, at 300 it will have resistance Y, and so on. That is how temp sensing devices work, they don't actually measure temperature but rather change in resistance from starting resistance, and calculate the approximate temperature accordingly.

So it would look like this: If you set it to 100w and 500F, it will heat up to say 90w at which point it reaches target temperature. It will then throttle back the power to keep it set at that temperature.
 
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Yes that's my understanding as well. It's kind of weird at first, but after less than 24 hours, I really like it. Maybe it's because I use a Derringer, but I get a nice warm vape at 37.5 and about 470 degrees thus far.
 
Oh man! How do you like that Velocity?? I've been looking at them. I really want that two post design for my big ol' nickel builds. Is it authentic? I've heard some of the clones have stripped screws.
I love the Velocity, been using it non stop for 2weeks now. Super easy to build on, massive build deck, absolutely fantastic. It is a clone, don't have the do-re-mi for authentic drippers. My clone is 1:1, and bought it from a good company over here so if anything goes wrong I am sure they will sort me out, I believe the clone I have is made by Ivogo. If it is they have a good track record.
 
It's an upper limit, so if wattage is set at 40, it will push toward that target until it hits the target temperature. It will back down the power to maintain that temp as well.
If your wattage is set too high in relation to your temp, you'll never hit the wattage that you're asking of the device. Make sense?

The idea of wattage on temp control is a bit weird to me, a lot of people don't get why you set wattage when you set temp.

Essentially nickel changes resistance with temperature, which means at 200F it will have resistance X, at 300 it will have resistance Y, and so on. That is how temp sensing devices work, they don't actually measure temperature but rather change in resistance from starting resistance, and calculate the approximate temperature accordingly.

So it would look like this: If you set it to 100w and 500F, it will heat up to say 90w at which point it reaches target temperature. It will then throttle back the power to keep it set at that temperature.

That makes perfect sense. I had wondered how the board got the temperature info. Now to explain to the wife why I need a new box mod!
 
OK...already posted in the Vapequisitions thread, but here is the new one...

VJJ by Grandvapors loaded in the tank (strawberry milkshake)

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I went ahead and ordered a black one from Gearbest lets see how it works I like the concept, my nano is OK but I need something better.
 
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SMPL clone w/ doge v2

single twisted 24g 6 wraps cool at .3ohm

thats is about as low as this battery can handle, I need some larger gauge kanthal to get some more vapor and warmth. But overall, it hits well and it easy to use
 
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