Charcoal Level 3 OC arrived so it's a head to head with the Timeless .95 OC

[User 306]

Well I got a email from Brian at Charcoal last week asking if I still wanted the Level 3 OC head I had emailed him about. He told me he was going to have some heads and baseplates for available for sale before he moves his plant out west and if I wanted it he'd put it aside for me. I already had the Magnum handle I had bought earlier on. Originally I wanted a Dual comb Level 3 but I thought why not as I kept looking at the handle all by itself. So I took the plunge and I still do want the dual plate when he makes them but after this shave I think I'm going with a level 2 as this razor is a BEAST!

First off when I screwed the head on, not only did it look awesome but I noticed how easy it was to screw the head on and was only 2nd to the Wolfman Guerrilla I just got last week that is the smoothest I've ever experienced on any razor period.
Also the head had a lower profile than my Timeless razors but not as low as the Wolfman so right in between is where I'd put it. I checked for blade rigidness again and in that department it was close but not as rigid as the Timeless. In fact nothing in my den holds the blade in like a vise like the Timeless.
I went for the Antique brass finish and Brain and I have been in communication ever since he emailed me wanting to know if liked the head and the finish. He also told me how to maintain if I wanted it to stay just like I got it or If I wanted to let the patina do naturally what it will do on it's own he also made some suggestions. He also gave me his opinion on the blades he prefers in the Level 3 head. Once again another Artisan razor manufacturer that offers personalized customer service which works for me and I believe creates brand loyalty.

I've had my Timeless razors for a while now and I've had many shaves with them and the .95 gap OC has remained at the top of the list of all my razors I currently have in my den. So with that said on with the shave.

Beard growth - 2 days
Razor 1 Charcoal Goods Level 3 OC
Razor 2 Timeless dual comb OC/SB .95 gap
Shaving soap - PannaCrema - Nuavia Verde
Brush - Razorock Monster
Blade Astra SP

I'd normally use a Kai blade in my Timeless but I wasn't sure how that would work in the CG so I went with Astra's that came with it thinking I'll start with a less sharp blade.

Pass 1 - WTG - I gave the Charcoal the task of tackling the more difficult side of my face to shave on which is my right side because of a nasty cowlick I have on my neck. I started right off with the CG and I noticed immediately this was a razor that absolutely demanded all of my attention and a far cry from the last comparison I just did using the OB Genesis and the Blackland Sabre. So I decide I'm only doing 2 passes and some touch ups in this comparison and also to take very short progressive hair reduction strokes. The Nuavia is an awesome soap with great glide and provides a nice thick yogurt thick cream that gave me a little more confidence using these 2 razors. I've used the Blue before but this was my first time out with the Verde and I like the citrusy scent. The Timeless is just the smoothest shaving DE I've ever used and it just motored along mowing down my growth with less blade feedback than the CG which gave me quite a bit. The CG was constantly letting me know it was there and I best pay attention! So at the end of the first pass I'm absolutely at a very good DFS.

Pass 2 - XTG - keeping with the very short stroke method moving XTG going both towards and away form my nose using a gradual hair reduction technique I've learned along the way and throwing in some J hooks here and there in my trouble spots. Again the Timeless is the smoothest and has a little bit better glide which may or may not be because of the polished finish. The CG was a little easier to get under my nose with because of the lower profile head. I also noticed the Timeless moved the lather a bit better than the CG as well. On this pass I got a weeper from the CG right under my lip which if i'm going to get one that'a were it usually happens. I pride myself on not getting them so I was thinking to myself I must have taken my focus away or this blade isn't right for this razor. NOTE: Astra's are not my favorite blades but I have a ton of them and I thought their milder than the Kai's so I'll use them but looking back I think the Kai's are sharper but are smoother than the Astra SP's at least for me and I'll try them on the next shave with the CG. At the end of this pass I'm a VERY solid BBS smooth and I can tell form experience this is one of those that I believe will last longer than the one i got the other day with the Sabre & Genesis. I had to do a little touching up on my neck cowlick and that was it. I have not used the very short stroke progressive hair reduction technique with the Timeless before and normally do a traditional 3 pass shave so I was pleasantly surprised by how close I was. With the CG I don't want to think what would have happened if I took nice long strokes like I can with the Timeless. Like I said I've got a lot more passes with the Timeless than with the CG so it may take me a few more shaves and trying other blades to tame this Beast of a razor! It now has taken that nickname away from my R41 in my den.

 

[JWK1]

Very nice write up. I wish the charcoal was a bit more accessible. It sounds like the level 3 might be a better fit for me than the Timeless with a .95 gap. I love aggressive razors.

 

[User 306]

Very nice write up. I wish the charcoal was a bit more accessible. It sounds like the level 3 might be a better fit for me than the Timeless with a .95 gap. I love aggressive razors.

Thank you and they are hard to get but let me know if you want one and as soon as Brian moves his shop and is set up I can keep you updated on when he's releasing the Level 3 OC head again. Right now he's got some handles available on his site and the level 2 and 3 baseplates in OC only which works for me. I really like the heavier weight of the Magnum handle that you see in the photo. I had the Bishop but it just didn't work for me so I sent it back for the Magnum. In face I think I saw some left on the site.

As far as the razor it is very aggressive and I know a lot of guys hate that terminology and use the word efficient so i'll just say it's extremely efficient LOL! Right now I'm sitting here with one of the closest shaves I've ever gotten. I can't imagine what that beast would be like with a feather blade in it.

 

[dfoulk]

I recently bought a Lvl 1 SB Charcoal razor and I have to say that I do really like it. The workmanship is excellent as it's even more impressive than it appears on the web site. Like others, I'd say it's pretty close to that of the Wolfman razors in terms of build quality. The first pic shows it next to a BBS1, Wolfman and the Timeless to show the differences in the head design.

As far as the shave compared to my Timeless .68 SB it's not as smooth and the shaves don't last quite as long but it's a really nice razor that I'm happy to own.

I bought mine in the bright finish and after lightly buffing any coating that was on it with a 5000 grit pad I threw it in a container with a hard boiled egg for about two hours to force a patina and it looks excellent now. I might go another couple hours to further darken it lather this week. I like it even more now than when I got it. That's something I really like about these razors as the material allows each one to be unique and to become your own.

For me it won't take the top spot from my Timeless as my favorite razor but I put it up there in quality with the other high end razors that I own.

 

[rabidus]

This razor sounds aggressive, the R41 is aggressive. The MMOC is mild but will give you a close shave like this aggressive razor. If you say the MMOC is aggressive, which it is not, then people will fear it like the R41 and level 3!

 

[Hoka Hey]

I wonder how the CG compares to a NEW or NEW Deluxe?
I've not seen that handle before. Trying to decide if I love it, or if it's just a momentary infatuation.

 

[Highspeedlane]

Great review. Now you have me wanting a Timeless...I just have no idea which gap would serve me best.

 

[User 306]

View attachment 806904 View attachment 806905 I recently bought a Lvl 1 SB Charcoal razor and I have to say that I do really like it. The workmanship is excellent as it's even more impressive than it appears on the web site. Like others, I'd say it's pretty close to that of the Wolfman razors in terms of build quality. The first pic shows it next to a BBS1, Wolfman and the Timeless to show the differences in the head design.

As far as the shave compared to my Timeless .68 SB it's not as smooth and the shaves don't last quite as long but it's a really nice razor that I'm happy to own.

I bought mine in the bright finish and after lightly buffing any coating that was on it with a 5000 grit pad I threw it in a container with a hard boiled egg for about two hours to force a patina and it looks excellent now. I might go another couple hours to further darken it lather this week. I like it even more now than when I got it. That's something I really like about these razors as the material allows each one to be unique and to become your own.

For me it won't take the top spot from my Timeless as my favorite razor but I put it up there in quality with the other high end razors that I own.

Nice collection!
Yes Brian's right on par with Wolfman and Timeless and I agree on the finish. At first I was going to spray it with Lacquer to keep it looking exactly like it looks in the photo. But after talking with Brian he suggested shaving with it for a couple of weeks and seeing if I still felt the same once it starts taking on it's own unique patina.

On the shave I think the Level 1 especially in a SB is wouldn't be as efficient as the Timeless .68. I'm thinking you'd need either a level 1 OC or Levl 2 SB to compare. The Level 3 OC is a monster! I was gonna pick up a level 2 OC this morning but I really want the Level 2 dual plate OC and SB which I believe would be more of a daily driver for me and would probably match up much better to the Timeless.95 dual plate I have now.

I've got the Wolfman Guerrilla but it's not in this group so I'd like to get a
WR 1 in a .74 or .84 gap and compare it to the Timeless.95. Been on the list for 6 months now.

 

[User 306]

I wonder how the CG compares to a NEW or NEW Deluxe?
I've not seen that handle before. Trying to decide if I love it, or if it's just a momentary infatuation.

Haha!
It's a great handle and the more I look at it I'm glad I got it instead of the more common Bishop. I also like the Helix and love the Bullet!

When you say the New Deluxe what razor are you referring to? I must be living on another planet cause I've not heard of it or maybe I know it by another name?

 

[rabidus]

When you say the New Deluxe what razor are you referring to? I must be living on another planet cause I've not heard of it or maybe I know it by another name?

It's vintage Gillette and not as aggressive as the R41.

 

[User 306]

Great review. Now you have me wanting a Timeless...I just have no idea which gap would serve me best.

Do you like a mid Level or higher efficient razor?

.68 is mid level and the .95 is even more efficient. With that said the SB is the mildest with the scalloped and then open comb in either gap.

I also have to add either gap. They are for me the smoothest shaving razor I've ever used with the best glide.

Do yourself a favor and get one. Some guys I know order two baseplates. One in each gap and then send back the one they don't want. Timeless customer service is about as good as it gets. IMO

Hope that helps

 

[User 306]

It's vintage Gillette and not as aggressive as the R41.

Oh this Level 3 OC is definitely beyond my R41 by quite a bit! I can't express enough that this Razor absolutely demands a lot of focus and your complete attention. I love the challenge!

 

[User 306]

This razor sounds aggressive, the R41 is aggressive. The MMOC is mild but will give you a close shave like this aggressive razor. If you say the MMOC is aggressive, which it is not, then people will fear it like the R41 and level 3!

Good point and I'm trying not to use that the term " Aggressive " but you and I know that let's say the MMOC is very efficient and so is the Timeless but what I'm saying is this Level 3 is very efficent! Something maybe not to fear but I want to convey to people who maybe are thinking about adding one to their den knows exactly what they'd be getting into. An if their up to the challenge then it will certainly give you that!

 

[Highspeedlane]

Do you like a mid Level or higher efficient razor?

.68 is mid level and the .95 is even more efficient. With that said the SB is the mildest with the scalloped and then open comb in either gap.

I also have to add either gap. They are for me the smoothest shaving razor I've ever used with the best glide.

Do yourself a favor and get one. Some guys I know order two baseplates. One in each gap and then send back the one they don't want. Timeless customer service is about as good as it gets. IMO

Hope that helps

I'm leaning toward a .68. To put it in perspective, the below work for me:

- a Fatboy at around 5 or 6
- a thick cap Gillette Old Type
- a Merkur Progress somewhere between 1.5 and 3 depending on whether the blade is brand new (1.5) or a dozen or more shaves in (about 3)

So I'm thinking a .68 in the OC might be a good matchup. I just don't want something "too" mild. Thanks for your great comparison and descriptions!

 

[Hoka Hey]

Haha!
It's a great handle and the more I look at it I'm glad I got it instead of the more common Bishop. I also like the Helix and love the Bullet!

When you say the New Deluxe what razor are you referring to? I must be living on another planet cause I've not heard of it or maybe I know it by another name?

Here's a picture. Gillette NEW on the left, which is what the CG razor is based on, according to their website, and NEW Deluxe on the right. I find the Deluxe more efficient than the standard NEW. The Deluxe is my personal favorite at the moment. Both from the 30's.

 

[User 306]

Here's a picture. Gillette NEW on the left, which is what the CG razor is based on, according to their website, and NEW Deluxe on the right. I find the Deluxe more efficient than the standard NEW. The Deluxe is my personal favorite at the moment. Both from the 30's.View attachment 806976

Wow those are in beautiful condition!

Thanks for sharing the photos and info with me. BTW what the gap on those bad boys?

 

[pbrmhl]

I have both the Charcoal Goods Level 3 open comb and the Timeless .95 open comb. I place each of them "best in class" in the two DE categories I actually use: "blade-forward and extremely efficient" (the CG), on the one hand, and "smooth and almost as efficient" (the Timeless). My other favorites in the CG category are the R41 2011, PAA DOC Evo stainless, Ikon Shavecraft Tech, ATT H2 and Le Coq caged comb. My other favorites in the Timeless category are the Rockwell 6S with the #6 plate, Wolfman .74 open comb and Blackbird open comb.

I usually choose a blade-forward razor, as I enjoy the focus I apply during the shave, and the extra-close face feel during the rest of the day. I'm reluctant to use the word "smooth" in describing the Timeless category, as the implication is that the Level 3 category is not smooth. I just can't think of an antonym for "smooth" that doesn't have a negative connotation. I really do enjoy a blade-forward shave. (And I agree that "aggressive" and "mild" are not very descriptive.) Thus, my overall favorite DE is the Level 3. My second favorite is, depending on the day, the Timeless.

 

[Hoka Hey]

Wow those are in beautiful condition!

Thanks for sharing the photos and info with me. BTW what the gap on those bad boys?

No idea on gap. But there's some blade exposure. with the NEW, a little, and with the NEW Deluxe, a little more. Basically mild to moderate blade feel, in a very direct way. Blade forward is a good description.

 

[User 306]

I'm leaning toward a .68. To put it in perspective, the below work for me:

- a Fatboy at around 5 or 6
- a thick cap Gillette Old Type
- a Merkur Progress somewhere between 1.5 and 3 depending on whether the blade is brand new (1.5) or a dozen or more shaves in (about 3)

So I'm thinking a .68 in the OC might be a good matchup. I just don't want something "too" mild. Thanks for your great comparison and descriptions!

Yep the .68 OC should fit the bill based on what you're saying works for you. I will add I have a Fatboy and had a Mergress that I had for over a year and if I could mention one thing that may get you thinking. The Fatboy as much as I love it does not shave anywhere near as smoothly as the Timeless and the Mergress I had did have a fairly nice glide but with either of the blade gaps they both glide about the same. So I'll say this is I compare my . 68 OC to the straight bar side of my dual head .95 they are really very close with the .95 being just a little more efficient. So just food for thought. When you get you're .68 if you feel you would like just a touch more blade then I'd exchange it for a dualie . 95 OC/SB combo. It's great. First pass you use the OC and from then on you use the SB. But you've got 30 days so I'd say give it at least 2 weeks to evaluate.

Just my 2 cents..

 

[User 306]

No idea on gap. But there's some blade exposure. with the NEW, a little, and with the NEW Deluxe, a little more. Basically mild to moderate blade feel, in a very direct way. Blade forward is a good description.

So are they hard to find?