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Arkansas Finish - Wanting a sharper edge

Bowmaker

Bowmaker

Timeclo said:
I reset the bevel and started all over with the Geneva Cutlery.

Shapton 1.5k - 5k - 8k - 12k - Translucent Ark Progression

I did about 150 laps on the Trans Ark, using mineral oil. I think I prefer the feel of the Black Ark over Trans... a bit more feedback from the stone.

View attachment 1494076

As for the shave, it started off similarly as all the other ones but it was sharp enough to cut through all the growth. It didn't feel buttery smooth but not tuggy either. So far, it's been the best shave with this razor. Even going ATG on the neck, it felt smooth so that's a big improvement for me.

Couple things I changed: Reset the bevel (skip the hard/soft Arks in the middle) and slow down during the Trans Ark (avoid raking the edge). I guess these changes helped produce a better result.

I also think this smaller 4/8 blade has something to do with the feel of the shave. Compared to the 6/8 GD, it feels a bit milder/less sharp? Maybe a bigger blade gives it more stability. Not sure but I'm glad to make some improvements with the Ark finish.
Click to expand...
Mineral oil works fine for knifes but I think it is way too thick for a razor on a hard ark. Lapp count would be way up there because the razor isn't contacting the stone much.

A light machine oil, sewing machine oil, WD-40 ect, would be a much better choice.
 
SliceOfLife

SliceOfLife

It's a bit pricey, but I had a good bit of a highly refined paint thinning spirits (gamsol) left over after a painting course I took, and it's just about perfect consistency for honing oil when cut 50/50 (or adjust to your preference) with mineral oil. I had used kero before and the stink wasn't great.
 
H

H Brad Boonshaft

It is probably impossible to exactly grade your stone, it is a natural stone after all, but you can easily find out if it is a finisher.

Take a razor to a pristine 8k edge.

Finish lap your Ark to 600. Mark a grid on the stone with a sharpie. It is flat when you can remove a sharpie grid in less than 10 laps on 600 paper.

Then hone on your 600 finished stone, it will either improve an 8k edge or it not. It does not matter what it is called if it is a finisher.

A finishing Ark will improve an 8k edge, but you must have a pristine 8k edge to get the most from a finishing Ark.
 
Frank Shaves

Frank Shaves

Based on a post by another member, I bought a large bottle of Everclear grain alcohol and tried using it to thin my mineral oil. Seemed like a lot of work and not sure it was an improvement. My mineral oil works fine as is.
 
sexy beast

sexy beast

I use dish soap and water. 1to10 mix. I use this mixture it on my Coti's too. It has worked well for me. I use a 1000gr diamond plate to maintain the texture and flatness periodically.
 
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Darth Scandalous

Darth Scandalous

WD40 for me. I don't mind the smell, it reminds me of hanging out with my dad in the workshop when I was a kid. It also yields great edges on my La Grise coti. Sometimes I do a little initial work on the coti and then finish on the trans ark. Did it tonight, in fact.
 
dabrock

dabrock

Does WD40 last long on the stone? I always thought it was prone to fairly quick evaporation.
Has anyone tried Jig-A-Loo? I have a can of that lying around that I might give a try.
 
duke762

duke762

Rose to the occasion
Darth Scandalous said:
WD40 for me. I don't mind the smell, it reminds me of hanging out with my dad in the workshop when I was a kid. It also yields great edges on my La Grise coti. Sometimes I do a little initial work on the coti and then finish on the trans ark. Did it tonight, in fact.
Click to expand...

I'm also a really big fan of WD 40. I use it on everything except my Shapton's. I use it on India's a lot with knives. I have never, ever seen a lube that can lift that much swarf, out of a Fine India that looked clean. Treats and help prevent, pocket knife trails on my Trans.

I want this lifting power protecting my finest stones also. On an oil stone, or any abrasive surface for that matter, loading the surface with swarf, causes the abrasive qualities of that surface to become questionable at best.

Just 3 drops to cover an 8" x 2" Trans/Black. Okay, and another 3 that I smear around and squeegee it off with a single edge razor blade paint scraper before getting started. And just maybe, a drop or 2 while honing. I like WD's water like consistency yet it still feels like a slight buffer on the hone.

I can ignore WD's smell and don't find it as offensive smelling, or toxic as some alternatives. I buy it by the gallon and mix Rosemary essential oil in mine, some times I use others. When I pour it off into my bench bottle, I add scent until I like it.
 
J

JPO

I don't mind the smell of WD40, i need to give it shot. I tried Ballistol cut with water. Worked quite well but i did not get along with the smell:)

When your stone is just lapped it might help to work the surface with a kitchen knife a few minutes. I feel my stone just got better with use, but that might just be a personal preference.
I keep one side a little burnished and the other side is regularly refreshed with 600 grit sandpaper.
 
lightfoot

lightfoot

My thoughts on your dilemma are as follows. You had mentioned on another platform that the Sharpton 12,000 grit stone was definitely shaving sharp but just lacking in smoothness. My thought is that that’s the point in the progression to work out prior to go into the Arkansas stone. Is it possible it’s a matter of tweaking your strop technique to smooth out the edge? Is it possible you might have a bit of a micro Burr at the Apex that needs to be removed? The funny thing is whether you’re talking about an Arkansas stone or finishing compounds you will usually want to have an edge that’s already extremely smooth before approaching any kind of post-finishing option. My personal opinion of Arkansas stones is that they are in fact more of a post-finishing option so that may be something to keep in mind.
 
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Timeclo

Timeclo

lightfoot said:
My thoughts on your dilemma are as follows. You had mentioned on another platform that the Sharpton 12,000 grit stone was definitely shaving sharp but just lacking in smoothness. My thought is that that’s the point in the progression to work out prior to go into the Arkansas stone. Is it possible it’s a matter of tweaking your strop technique to smooth out the edge? Is it possible you might have a bit of a micro Burr at the Apex that needs to be removed? The funny thing is whether you’re talking about an Arkansas stone or finishing compounds you will usually want to have an edge that’s already extremely smooth before approaching any kind of post-finishing option. My personal opinion of Arkansas stones is that they are in fact more of a post-finishing option so that may be something to keep in mind.
Click to expand...
I definitely need to change my stropping technique. I think I might be rolling over my edges during stropping so I'll have to focus on it. I am paying more attention to the earlier progressions, especially making sure that the bevel is set and is easily cutting hair at that level. I was setting the bevel on another vintage yesterday and it took forever... 4 or more sessions and it's still not set. Several geometry issues and needing to sand down some parts to allow for an even spine wear/honing. I'm still learning but it's been great so far.
 
lightfoot

lightfoot

Timeclo said:
I definitely need to change my stropping technique. I think I might be rolling over my edges during stropping so I'll have to focus on it. I am paying more attention to the earlier progressions, especially making sure that the bevel is set and is easily cutting hair at that level. I was setting the bevel on another vintage yesterday and it took forever... 4 or more sessions and it's still not set. Several geometry issues and needing to sand down some parts to allow for an even spine wear/honing. I'm still learning but it's been great so far.
Click to expand...
Keep us posted.
 
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