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What to consider when purchasing a brush

Until I joined B&B, I always owned only one brush at a time, and I don't remember any of them. It wasn't something important. Actually, nothing was important in my shaving routine, except finding decent blades.

Then B&B found me, sucked me in, and I found myself spending all my time reading about razors and blades. I bought and tried about 50 razors and 30 blades in the first 4 months on the forum. It was exciting, it was fun, it was easy, and affordable to track down, buy, evaluate, and find out what razors and blades worked for me. It's easy with razors and blades - they work well or they don't. Easy!

Besides razors and blades, which had all my attention, I didn't spend time on the other subforums, including the brush section. When I joined B&B, based on price and photos, I made an uneducated decision, and bought my first Pure badger brush from Fendrihan. It was an easy decision; I started with a budget, liked the handle - done! It seemed a decent brush. I used it with creams at the time, it was better than all my cheap horse and boar brushes that I'd used until then. From time to time, I saw some crazy people selling and buying used brushes on BST for crazy money. I often shook my head in disbelieve. It wasn't me! What's so special about brushes!

Then I found out that some of my skin irritation problems were not caused by the razor or a sloppy technique, but were brush burn. I started to pay attention, and realized that I didn't like how the Pure badger tips felt on my face. There was this annoying sensation from the prickly trimmed tips. So, I had to look for another better brush. I grabbed my spear and went on a quest to fight the windmills. It was overwhelming! Everyone talking about their experience with this and that brush, defending their qualities! All those flashy photos of brushes! People drooling over new arrivals! Comparative crazy talk about those small differences between them. I read, and read, and made lists, brainstorming, comparing properties, brands, handles, prices, vendors, etc. It was often frustrating.

...Fast forward an year and a half later! I've owned about 60 brushes. I totally enjoyded the process of making a decision which brush to buy next every single time. Looking back, with a couple of exceptions, I'm happy with my selections. I've bought all these brushes with only one goal in mind - to try them all, and to make my mind which ones I preferred and why. It wasn't for the purpose to collect them, and to put them behind a glass. I'm down to 25 brushes now, 15 of them in active rotation. I can name my top 3 brushes easily. Since the beginning, it was clear to me that I'd loose money in my quest. But I got hooked to the hobby. Thinking of it as a practical hobby, there's no wasting money for hobbies. It's a part of the journey, the experience, and it's a choice. I don't argue with the minimalists, it's just another way of thinking about shaving.

Finally to the point! I wanted to share my opinion about the process of selecting a brush that always works for me. Surprisingly, there's a universal recipe to follow in this jungle of available brushes which is unique for everybody.

It comes with the experience, but the most important part is to prioritize and have a clear understanding about the properties of a new brush you're looking for. These priorities are subjective, personal, in a different order. But they are always the same. Without doing that in advance, it's easy to make a mistake, or to regret a purchase. These personal preferences are a precondition to making a good comparison between brushes, or to apply critical thinking when evaluating somebody's description of a brush.

Most of the time, when someone asks for help about purchasing a new brush, they are asked how they are going to use it, and with what software. Based on my experience, bowl vs. face and soaps vs. creams arguments are an overrated classification. Most brushes don't have problems with those, except some extreme handle designs uncomfortable to use with a bowl, or brushes with complete lack of backbone not very efficient when loading soap. The most unsuitable handles for bowl lathering that I've used are beehives and Vie-Long 16510 handle, all of them beautiful and comfortable handles. I didn't mind using them in a bowl though, although I had to be careful not to knock my knuckles on the edges. Also, even the floppiest brushes are able to pick soap, maybe loading a little longer, but nothing major to complain about.

I also don't think that the budget should be a top priority to start with. It's the opposite, I think it's a sure recipe to fail making open minded comparison between brushes. Budget matters of course, but it's a constraint that should be considered last, when you'd have narrowed down your selection to a very few models to choose from.

I've figured out that the following list of priorities put in order of importance, helps me decide if I like a brush when reading about it, or when hunting for a new brush:

1. Softness
* the feel of the brush on my face is the most important property to me; it doesn't have to be always the same, but it has to be clear how soft I want my next brush to be;

2. Flow-through and lather release
* Efficient and effortless application of the lather on my face is the second most important thing I look for in a brush;

3. Backbone
* this is the tactile feeling that contributes for the overall perception of a brush; it suites your technique of pushing, swirling and painting preferences;

4. Knot size and shape
* these are responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.

5. Handle aesthetics and comfort
* although not on the top of my list, it's a very important factor when picking a brush which can become a deal breaker;

6. Budget
* finally, this is the 'black or white' constraint that will decide for me, if I'm going to buy the brush, or which one, if I have more than one in mind;

7. Brand
* it's the knowledge about the reputation and the image of the maker, the quality and warranties of their brushes.

There's only one change in my list that can occur - the brand selection can go to the top of the list, if I'm curious to try a brush from a particular manufacturer.

Maybe, someone will notice that density, hair grade, and loft are not in my list. This is because these properties are only indirectly responsible for my choice, not on their own. Flow, backbone, and even softness are affected by them, so they should be considered in the process.

So, do you have any strategy when picking a brush?
Do you rely on impulsive decisions?
Do you trust your instincts when purchasing a brush without clear idea what you're looking for?
Have you been disappointed due to misunderstanding your own preferences?
Have you been frustrated from the available choices, and not being able to decide?
 
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Boris, a very well-constructed list of considerations, and I tend to think along similar lines. However, there is a certain x factor here, too, that might be related to the brand or aesthetics or personal connections or any number of other factors. Call it chemistry for lack of a better term. Certain brushes just inspire one to want to try them, like a Chubby or a Rooney Heritage or (in my case) a Duke 3. Brushes with some iconic status or general charisma that draws buyers almost before they know anything about the actual characteristics of the brush. Semogue SOC comes to mind on the boar side, for instance. This has inspired me to buy on more than one occasion, sometimes regrettably.

I think a reasoned approach is the way to go, and I mention the x factor as a distraction to watch out for and avoid. Buying a Chubby or SOC because it's the thing to do or somehow compulsory for a wetshaver to try these items may work out, or it may just cost you an arm and a leg. So I like this list of traits, and I think it's helpful for newbies and those who've been around the block.
 
That is a nice write up. I am considering a new brush, and will be referencing this post as I evaluate.

I am curious what your top 3 have turned out to be.
 
That is a nice write up. I am considering a new brush, and will be referencing this post as I evaluate.

I am curious what your top 3 have turned out to be.

Thank you for asking. My favourite 3 brushes in no particular order are Shavemac D01 3-band fan, Kent BK8, and T&H Rooney 1/2.
 
Well done. I'm at the beginning of my brush phase. I now have 4. The Shavemac DO-1 2 band has caught my eye, just a matter of time. Yup, each brush has added to my experience base , each one offering a new type to learn. Enjoy your lathering!
 
Great post. I currently have a cheap Badger (VDH), cheap Boar, and a very cheap synthetic. I've been wanting to upgrade but don't have the disposable income to buy several high end brushes in order to find what works best for me. I think the tips in this post will go a long way toward helping me pull the trigger confidently on a nicer brush.

Thanks again!
 
Thank you for asking. My favourite 3 brushes in no particular order are Shavemac D01 3-band fan, Kent BK8, and T&H Rooney 1/2.

Thanks to your continued help, support and answering my questions....these are also 3 of my favourites as well. :thumbup1:

Great post Boris and very helpful to anyone and everyone, thinking about adding a brush to their shave den.
 
Nicely done, Boris. There are times that I wish I had a specific strategy in mind when buying brushes. I definitely buy when my knee jerks more often than I'd like!
 
Well thought out and presented information about your shaving preferences.

I have pretty much stopped looking at brushes. I think I have that part of my shaving accoutrements all under control and covered.

Now when I see a new brush, it is typically close to one I already am using so unless there is something spectacular about it, I usually will just keep using what I already have on hand.
 
Thank you every one for the kind words. It all seems obvious and easy now to buy a new brush, after passing through the process of selecting one lots of times, but we all know how difficult it was to make right decisions in the beginning. Tim above mentioned the "x-factor". I bought one brush based on ot, and it was my biggest mistake of purchasing a brush. I, like turtle, don't look actively to buy a new brush anymore, and am not that curious about them. But when someone talks about a brush, I consider the same principles in the same order that works for me. Let's say somebody talks about the great backbone of a brush, or about its greate handle, or the price. If I'm not convinced it's going to be as soft as I want it, and then if doesn't release lather the way I want, I totally ignore the rest of the properties.
 
Helpful insights. Thank you.

I'm a noob just beginning to explore different brushes, but loft seems directly important in selecting a brush for travel or face lathering and indirectly for backbone.

And I wonder about the absence of talking about the bristle/hair/synthetic component. Are there no qualities unique to each type of fiber?
 
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Very good post. I have always wondered about brushes.

For me the very first thing before all the OP's points would be synthetic or real. I only use synthetic.

I feel bad for the poor badgers.....
 
Helpful insights. Thank you.

I'm a noob just beginning to explore different brushes, but loft seems directly important in selecting a brush for travel or face lathering and indirectly for backbone.

And I wonder about the absence of talking about the bristle/hair/synthetic component. Are there no qualities unique to each type of fiber?

See, this is exactly why wanted to start this thread.

You're right about lofts, but I didn't mention them because the loft is like the density, it's considered when evaluating the backbone and the flow-through, not by itself. Don't be confused with the size of the knot. Size is not a loft, it's the the diameter of the knot, or the amount of hair in the knot.

Furthermore, that's exacatly why to me the question about face vs. bowl lathering is a tricky one, and I said it's overrated. Most people have their own technique and habits how much they swirl, press, and paint with their brushes. End this is often misleading when compared. It should be considered when evaluating the backbone property, not as a separate entity. For example, I face lather with mostly painting strokes, prefer relaxed higher lofts, and for a lot of people brushes with this kind of splay, loft, and backbone would be considered good for bowl lathering ONLY.

Also, I didn't want to talk about hair grades because this was not the goal of my post. Materials affect all the properties of the knot and even materials for handles must be considered, of course. But this is done again in the context of the target properties.
 
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It's a great list, but unfortunately, it is impossible for someone new to understand how they value the first four criteria without personally trying a lot of brushes. I would want to add that experience with a variety of brushes is absolutely paramount. Additionally, a consistent scale to measure softness, flowthrough, and backbone is also very important. Everyone loves to say YMMV, but there some objective approaches you could take to measuring/testing/rating these attributes.
 
It's a great list, but unfortunately, it is impossible for someone new to understand how they value the first four criteria without personally trying a lot of brushes. I would want to add that experience with a variety of brushes is absolutely paramount. Additionally, a consistent scale to measure softness, flowthrough, and backbone is also very important. Everyone loves to say YMMV, but there some objective approaches you could take to measuring/testing/rating these attributes.

Absolutely true! And this is why it was important for me to mention that I bought 60 brushes in an year and a half period without knowing anything about them before that. But also don't forget that this is what this forum is about. We're all here to help. There's tons of information on brushes and their propeties that can be found, read and analysed... in the condition you know what to look for the first, the second, the third, etc., and how the things are connected. You need it in order to exercise critical reading, and to transform the data into information.
 
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