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Vintage Mechanical watches. A few questions.

I've got a thing for what I like to think of as "functional art". That being the case, I've always desired a very visibly skeleton-faced (As much of the workings visible as possible) mechanical watch. In browsing eBay, the most appealing ones I've found are all marriage watches using early-mid 20th century movements in hand-made cases. Thing is, these go for absurd amounts of money. One I was really interested in ended the other day for close to a grand. Let's just say, that's out of my budget. Since I last looked (many many years ago), it seems skeleton faced watches have become very trendy and there are thousands of listings for cheap chinese watches with maybe 1-2 gears barely visible and a bunch of poorly done etching to make it look like more internals are visible. I have no interest in these. The third option seems to be Lower priced modern automatic mechanical watches that are a bit more skeletonized than the cheap chinese ones... but are in the $100-300 price range, and of unknown (to me) quality (Stuhrling, Invicta). A strike against these is that the brand name is usually boldly struck across the face of the watch, and that detracts from the appearance a great deal in my opinion. And the last option... that seems the most likely to work out for me is the rare vintage Skeleton that comes up... that aren't high dollar names like Omega. Recently I almost purchased a "Caravelle", but lost at the last minute. These vintage skeletons can be almost as appealing to me as the marriage watches when I find one that I like the looks of, and also fall right in my budget usually ($50-200 on the handful I've seen end recently), but again the problem that I don't know (and usually can't find any information about) the quality... and from what I'm hearing service will be almost necessary upon arrival unless the seller serviced it himself before selling (Not usually the case on these lower priced vintages)... which is an unknown expense (seen people saying it'll be anywhere from $75-150... or more)... which may drive the prices up almost to the low end cost of the more attractive "marriage" watches.


So... Basically... is there any easy way to quickly judge which vintage watches are of good quality? Is there a more reliable way to know what a service on a running but not recently serviced watch of <$200 value would cost? Are the watches from brands like Sturhling and Invicta of good quality or not? Is it feasible to learn independently how to service one's own watch after investing in a set of tools and the necessary lubricant if one is quite mechanically inclined? Any other advice for someone in my position?
 
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My advice is: don't buy a crap watch, it's just money wasted. I was in your same position some time ago and a friend of mine told me to wait until I could afford a good watch. I'm grateful for that advice, he was damn right.

If you like transparent back watches, take a look at the Seiko 5. It is a very good make, though not vintage, and they make the "movements" of their watches in-house, differently from the majority of the high-dollars makes which buy the movements mostly from ETA, with very few exceptions. Seiko 5 is an automatic watch with an affordable price range, you can also find it used in good condition.

Watch (no pun intended) for fakes though. Good luck.
 
Sorry, I didn't get it in the first place. You want something like this:

$orologio-theorema.jpg


That one is a bit out of budget , but what about these Earnshaw?
Not Swiss but the price is very attractive!
 
The problem with the inexpensive Asian movements isn't that they lack quality but rather that they lack consistency. Most of my hobby time is spent building/altering/servicing/repairing clocks and watches. To that end I've end quite a few "cheap" movements from the East. Some are terrible and don't last long. Some are OK and can be adjusted to give pretty good performance. I'm currently wearing one that came to me performing on par with COSC standards for chronometers! Clearly I would never expect that performance for a watch at this price point, just like I wouldn't expect it to arrive unuseable. Both have happened to me. The best advice is to save a little longer so that when you find exactly what you want you have the budget available to get it. If you decide to try the cheaper route expect a dud and if you get a good one you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
As mentioned above, there are now some very good Asian movement that are clones of venerable Swiss movements. You can find some very sound Chinese made watches for reasonable prices. You can go "replica" if you agree with a Swiss name brand clone, or you can go with a "homage" of the same watch without the Swiss name. Googling either term will get you you plenty of sites and forums dealing with both. Orient, Parnis and Seagull are names that make a variety of homage and their own style watches using Asian movements. You have to do a bit of research to see who is a reputable dealer, but it doesn't take too long. Be warned though that watches can lead to more acquisition syndrome....

As far as learning basic watchmaking, check out the course at TimeZonewatchschool.com. It's like a correspondence school for basic watchmaking and repair.
 
Yeah those earnshaw's Longcase line are exactly what I'm looking for price/appearance. It looks like they're battery-driven though. I'm looking for a full mechanical, wind or automatic wind. Still, they're worth considering... I take it they fall in the camp Scott talks about where I may get a gem, but will probably get a watch with a short life expectancy or poor accuracy?
 
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oc_in_fw

Fridays are Fishtastic!
Yeah those earnshaw's Longcase line are exactly what I'm looking for price/appearance. It looks like they're battery-driven though. I'm looking for a full mechanical, wind or automatic wind. Still, they're worth considering... I take it they fall in the camp Scott talks about where I may get a gem, but will probably get a watch with a short life expectancy or poor accuracy?

The ones I saw were automatic movement. That is a mechanical movement that uses a rotor, which moves off your wrist action, to wind the watch. It is 100% mechanical.
 
I think that site is mistaken. Amazon also lists this watch as Automatic/self-wind, but some of the reviews are quite bad.

I would better trust something like this Seagull skeleton watch. Seagull is the biggest maker of mechanical movements, so they make many of the cheap generic movements out there, but some people speculate that their own branded watches should be some of their best since they are putting their name on the outside of the watch as well providing the movement.
 
Ah thanks. Seagull sounds interesting, but that particular watch has the workings kind of in the back/obscured.

Basically for looks, watches appeal to me in this order (least to most):

Lots of frilly or garish metal or fake cogs filling/covering the watch
Lots of plain metal filling/covering the watch
Empty space in the watch
Actual internals (gears, very large coils, etc) filling the watch front and center


Take this watch for instance, I think it looks a bit better. It has that frilly nonsense etched around the edges, but the workings of the watch are much more pronounced, and the coil looks beefier to me. I like those aspects of it.
https://www.amazon.com/Parnis-Milit...00,p_n_feature_browse-bin:379304011|379300011
 
I've had pretty good luck with a couple of Seagull 6497 movements. With Amazon's return policy I think you'd be pretty safe with that one. For what my opinion's worth...

Ah thanks. Seagull sounds interesting, but that particular watch has the workings kind of in the back/obscured.

Basically for looks, watches appeal to me in this order (least to most):

Lots of frilly or garish metal or fake cogs filling/covering the watch
Lots of plain metal filling/covering the watch
Empty space in the watch
Actual internals (gears, very large coils, etc) filling the watch front and center


Take this watch for instance, I think it looks a bit better. It has that frilly nonsense etched around the edges, but the workings of the watch are much more pronounced, and the coil looks beefier to me. I like those aspects of it.
https://www.amazon.com/Parnis-Milit...00,p_n_feature_browse-bin:379304011|379300011
 
Yes, thanks... Of the modern watches I'm looking at in my price range; the Parnis ones are looking the best to me. I still think I may just save and wait until a vintage comes along that I can't resist; but if not, that'll probably be what I go for.
 
A hand wind seagull movement is probably your best option if wanting a new watch, but a lot of care needs to be used in choosing the watch manufacturer and warranty as I have read enough good and bad things about them to believe there are gems and future trash available for purchase. You may want to to some searching over at watchuseek, that may point you to a reliable used or new watch. Just one example post here out of hundreds.
 
Have you thought about going Russian? I've got an old Vostok mechanical that keeps fairly good time (+- 45 seconds a day) and you can usually find some pretty sweet deals on other Soviet era watches on the bay. You can also buy new Vostok's. The Amphibian is an awesome diver, if that's your thing.
 

oc_in_fw

Fridays are Fishtastic!
Have you thought about going Russian? I've got an old Vostok mechanical that keeps fairly good time (+- 45 seconds a day) and you can usually find some pretty sweet deals on other Soviet era watches on the bay. You can also buy new Vostok's. The Amphibian is an awesome diver, if that's your thing.
Once you go Russian, you never...uh, not sure how to finish :biggrin:
 
Yes, thanks... Of the modern watches I'm looking at in my price range; the Parnis ones are looking the best to me. I still think I may just save and wait until a vintage comes along that I can't resist; but if not, that'll probably be what I go for.

If you go Parnis I think you'd do best to get the Seagull movement as the unbranded ones are usually less consistent IME.
 
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