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Are All Adjustables Aggressive To More Aggressive?

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
So I'm not sure adjustable safety razors solve any problems and I'm pleased with my fixed, non-adjustable razors. I definitely prefer milder razors with nice, sharp blades ranging from an Edwin Jagger DE89, Game Changer .68 to vintage Gillette Super Speeds and recently the Leaf Twig/Thorn SE models. I'm not wanting for excellent razors or blades.
Having said that, I'm still intrigued by the concept of an adjustable. I only have one - a Vikings Blade Emperor Meiji - and if some of you have followed my journey, you may recall that I've retired it to my closet not once, but twice because it's inconsistent and often delivers very uncomfortable, aggressive shaves. It's the razor I wanted to love (I think it looks fantastic) but simply can't. It's like the super hot chick who mocks you behind your back or something ...
A new year is here and I don't need a new razor, having over a dozen already. But, as many of you already know, there's a difference between want and need, and I kind of/sort of would like to try another adjustable.
I have four criteria:
1) It has to be under $100, preferably under $70
2) It has to be mild on its lowest setting.
3) No vintages, please. I know the old Slim Adjustables, Fatboys, etc., were great but I have my vintages. I want something new.
4) No $20 Chinese copies of Merkur Futurs, etc. I don't want a ripoff of a great design.

I've read a lot of comments from you all here over the past year and it seems that I'm not alone in thinking that most if not all adjustables seem to be aggressive even on their mildest settings, meaning instead of "mild to wild" they're really more "wild to wilder", which I do NOT want.
A couple of examples of razors I'm considering are the Merkur Progress and Parker Variant but a couple of videos I've watched have me concerned they're too aggressive.
Any advice from this astute group is welcome.
And I thank you in advance.
 
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gpjoe

Slickness is a sickness
I've only used a Slim and Pearl Flexi, and it seems you an I have the same "taste" in razors. All my favorites are on the mild side: Tech, GC 68P ans 76P, Timeless 68, Superspeeds...

When I used the Flexi, it was in the lower half of the scale, even a 1 or 2. It's a cool gadget, but I sold it quickly after realizing that I really have no use for an adjustable razor.

I've kept my Slim because...it's a $6 piece of adjustable Gillette history. 🙂
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
I've only used a Slim and Pearl Flexi, and it seems you an I have the same "taste" in razors. All my favorites are on the mild side: Tech, GC 68P ans 76P, Timeless 68, Superspeeds...

When I used the Flexi, it was in the lower half of the scale, even a 1 or 2. It's a cool gadget, but I sold it quickly after realizing that I really have no use for an adjustable razor.

I've kept my Slim because...it's a $6 piece of adjustable Gillette history. 🙂
That makes perfect sense all the way around. :smile:
I'm not opposed to a Gillette Slim. I do have 'em on my watch list but haven't seen any I like yet.
 
The one adjustable razor that likely fits your shaving needs best (very mild at the lower end, still moderate if cranked up to the max setting) is the Tatara Muramasa. But unfortunately
it's way too expensive to fit your criteria.

I haven't shaved in ages with the Merkur Progress on the lowest settings, but perhaps it's worth to follow up with it...

The Pearl Flexi indeed is a well build but hefty razor. If you don't mind it's whopping weight, it shaves well even on lower settings.
 

brucered

System Generated
I posted a minute ago but deleted as I had my info wrong.

Anyway, I use a RR Mamba (53) as my daily razor for as long as I can remember, 2 pass WTG/ATG. When I reach for an adjustable it's a Slim or FB on 4 or 5. I find the shave equal in feel and end result.

With any adjustable, try using it to it's full advantage and adjust after each pass. The goal of multi-pass shaving js "stubble reduction". The most will come off in pass 1. More on pass 3. And the final reduction (if needed) on pass 3.

I now leave it on whatever setting j start with. But when I did 3 pass shaves, I dialed it UP after the first pass and UP.again for the final. So #4 WTG, #5 XTG, #6ATG. Each pass has less stubble to remove so you can up the aggression and your face should be fine, so long as your pressure and angle are in check.

 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
The one adjustable razor that likely fits your shaving needs best (very mild at the lower end, still moderate if cranked up to the max setting) is the Tatara Muramasa. But unfortunately
it's way too expensive to fit your criteria.

I haven't shaved in ages with the Merkur Progress on the lowest settings, but perhaps it's worth to follow up with it...

The Pearl Flexi indeed is a well build but hefty razor. If you don't mind it's whopping weight, it shaves well even on lower settings.
Thanks! I had forgotten about the Flexi. I seem to recall it having some quality control issues but I'll definitely look into it. I appreciate the recommendation from you and @gpjoe. Off I go to do some research. :lol1:
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
I posted a minute ago but deleted as I had my info wrong.

Anyway, I use a RR Mamba (53) as my daily razor for as long as I can remember, 2 pass WTG/ATG. When I reach for an adjustable it's a Slim or FB on 4 or 5. I find the shave equal in feel and end result.

With any adjustable, try using it to it's full advantage and adjust after each pass. The goal of multi-pass shaving js "stubble reduction". The most will come off in pass 1. More on pass 3. And the final reduction (if needed) on pass 3.

I now leave it on whatever setting j start with. But when I did 3 pass shaves, I dialed it UP after the first pass and UP.again for the final. So #4 WTG, #5 XTG, #6ATG. Each pass has less stubble to remove so you can up the aggression and your face should be fine, so long as your pressure and angle are in check.


That plan of attack makes perfect sense to me. Interestingly enough, I've seen a lot of guys who do it the opposite way: dial up the aggression on the 1st pass and then throttle back for succeeding passes. 🤷‍♂️
It's whatever works for the individual. If I end up with an adjustable, I'll try it both ways and see what I like.
 
With my apologies, Sir Lockback, I can't offer any suggestions that meet your criteria!
However, FWIW, I really don't find any aggressiveness issues with my few adjustables.
Indeed, certain ones are a bit more aggressive at same setting vs others, but, with practice, each offer a great shave!
Enjoy your journey!!

ajusts.jpg
 

gpjoe

Slickness is a sickness
My first Flexi had blade alignment issues...or more precisely: a blade gap issue. On every setting there was a difference in the gap along one edge vs the other.

Not sure about all the different version numbers, but my first razor was supposed to have been of a "corrected" lot. I returned it and the replacement razor was perfect.

Still, for the price the Flexi exudes quality, probably because of the weight, but the fit and finish are quite nice for a $70 (?) razor.
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
My first Flexi had blade alignment issues...or more precisely: a blade exposure issue. On every setting there was more blade exposure along one edge vs the other.

Not sure about all the different version numbers, but my first razor was supposed to have been of a "corrected" lot. I returned it and the replacement razor was perfect.

Still, for the price the Flexi exudes quality, probably because of the weight, but the fit and finish are quite nice for a $70 (?) razor.
Egggggscellent. Good to know. 🍺
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
Years back I used a Gillette Slim on setting # 1 with a Feather and liked it a lot.

You can always grab a flare tip super speed and get what you want and mot deal with adjusting if you don’t like aggressive.
Already have three Flare Tips and three other Super Speeds. :wink1:
 
I started out with a Merkur Progress some 20 years ago using a Feather blade. I tended to keep it on 3 or 4 most of the time with my ATG passes being on the 1 or 2 setting.

I had no issues with the agressiveness of the Progress, but I found it wasn't very durable. I'm a shower shaver and I've had too many Progress' break when they are dropped to the shower floor (Sometimes due to the shower mirror losing adhesion with the glass/wall where it was mounted and holding the razor while I relathered, other times slipping from my wet soapy hands. I've had the screw/bolt on the razor cap shear off, I've had the whole mechanisim fall out of the handle.

That's why my daily driver is a '59 Fatboy.
 

gpjoe

Slickness is a sickness
Egggggscellent. Good to know. 🍺

I edited my post, after I thought about it a bit.

The problem with the Flexi was a difference in the blade gap from one side to the other. I was too lazy to dig out my feeler gages, so I did a very scientific "flat toothpick" test. The toothpick would slip easily under the blade at the upper settings on one side, and wouldn't pass under the other, opposite blade edge.
 
This question is why we made the Osprey with a huge adjustable range. Most razors are either too mild across all settings or too aggressive across them all. Within your budget I'd recommend taking a look at the Parker Variant and Supply Pro (adjustable injector). Both fall on the milder side. Also might want to consider Rockwell 6S as a semi-adjustable.
 

Lockback

Dull yet interesting
This question is why we made the Osprey with a huge adjustable range. Most razors are either too mild across all settings or too aggressive across them all. Within your budget I'd recommend taking a look at the Parker Variant and Supply Pro (adjustable injector). Both fall on the milder side. Also might want to consider Rockwell 6S as a semi-adjustable.
Thanks a lot, Shane. Much appreciated. I do have a Rockwell 6C and love it. :thumbsup:
Hey, who knows ... maybe I'll just go for an Osprey. It is an absolutely gorgeous piece of kit.
 

mcee_sharp

MCEAPWINMOLQOVTIAAWHAMARTHAEHOAIDIAMRHDAE
Thanks a lot, Shane. Much appreciated. I do have a Rockwell 6C and love it. :thumbsup:
Hey, who knows ... maybe I'll just go for an Osprey. It is an absolutely gorgeous piece of kit.
Compared to your 6C the Progress is only marginally more aggressive feeling. IIRC the numbers on the Rockwell plates correspond very closely to the numbers in the dial on the Progress as far as gaps go.

I find the Progress cuts in more of a scything motion as well: it bends the blade more than other razors and has a smaller window of effective shaving angles. Once you find the "sweet spot" it's a very efficient and forgiving shave.
 
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