Very mild yet efficient non boutique razor recommendation for a long term DE user with reactive/sensitive skin

[sten]

I will second the Gamechanger 0.68.

If you look at the Merkur 34c, try and discover whether the version you liked was made with the old tooling (up until about 5-6 years ago) or the new tooling (looks similar, but the razor is milder and no longer has a brass thread post).

The de89 clone you tried may have been more aggressive than an actual de89. You should try the original if possible - you can just buy the head only for very little money.

Incidentally, have you tried just shaving the tiny stragglers under the nose with sideways strokes? I have many razors and have no problem getting under the nose with any of them, including things with large heads like GEM razors, by using a little sideways stroke on each side of the septum. I have to do this to hit those spots just under the nostrils and this seems to be the only way to do it - size of the razor head isn't really a factor.

It was definitely the old Merkur 34c. It sounds like the new ones might work better! I had to stop at DFS for every shave I did with the 34c, and that was when I had already been shaving for about a decade with Gillette black handle adjustable and Merkur 15c experience. Can you point me in the direction of update measurements? I'm burned out from research. In particular, I think that I'm hoping that "milder" means some combination of smaller guard span, and more neutral blade exposure if it was positive before.

Yeah, that's a fair point about the de89/r89 clone... That said I've read a bunch of sensitive/reactive skin reviews by people (who had been DE shaving for a while) who found that it was a rough shave, and it sounds like this was due to the admittedly very small positive blade exposure.

Yes, I have to use sideways, or sideways with diagonal blade orientation strokes to get those stragglers. With my specific cartilage+geometry the head size does seem to matter...the German 37, for example, will either not reach those hairs or will nick the septum. Gillette black handle adjustable has the corners of the blades so close to the sides of the guard that it will also nick the septum at least 1/3 of the time. The Rockwell is ultra safe but doesn't reach the hairs. Merkur 15c seems to be Goldilocks size.

 

[sten]

How about a Henson with the mild plate? Or for a little more money (but not too much) a Karve Overlander in brass or aluminum. Or if you want something really nice a Lambda Athena. These are all very gentle but efficient, and among the best razors you can get, that you’ll be happy with for a lifetime.

And I also recommend the Bic Metal disposable razors. Shop around because prices vary, but Amazon might best source. The cost per razor is about the same as a DE blade. These are marvellous razors and extremely gentle. You would need to apply a bit more pressure than usual to get a really close shave since they are so lightweight, but you can do it with these and not hurt your skin.

The Henson stretches the budget, and the two things I worry about are that I won't be able to shave the challenging bits where septum meets lip with those covered tabs (see earlier replies to this thread from today). Very cool razor though, and a good price I think (for now, in late 2023).

Thank you for the recommendation for the Bic Metal! I'm definitely going to give these to my nephews when they're old enough to start shaving. It's also a neat travel option that seems like might even be airport security friendly.

 

[sten]

If you can find a vintage Star 100 I think you'd be pleasantly surprised. Very inexpensive, very mild, very efficient.

Thanks for the recommendation With my luck I would search for one for years, find one, end up having it be lost/stolen/confiscated and then never find one again. It's unromantic and boring, but that's why I want to avoid unique and special options.

 

[sten]

Razorock Lupo 0.58. The design specifically addresses the problem with stubble right under the nostrils in a way that none of the others does.

Take a look at a photo of it and you will see what I mean.

You're right, and I really like this design! From what I can tell it has positive blade exposure though, and this is something I don't like about the Gillette black handle adjustable that I started with and occasionally return to. And it's also allegedly what makes the de89/r89 rough for some people, thus it seems like a lot of money to risk for something that seems to be a direction that I've already explored and that didn't work out.

 

[sten]

I would usually recommend Tech or Superspeed, but both are slightly more forward than the Merkur HD.

Why not just get the HD? Classic, shiny, beautiful.

GC68 could also work.

Thank you for confirming that the Tech and Superspped are more blade forward than the Merkur HD! This was my experience comparing the Gillette and pre-retooling HD that I sometimes use, but no one seems to talk about this.

Do you know if the new HDs have neutral or negative blade exposure?

 

[sten]

What about a Merkur Progress?

Very mild at lower settings and pretty efficient at higher ones. At least for me.
I haven't used mine since I got my Overlander, but the Overlander was nearly twice the price so...

Be well
Jay

Sadly I'm too clumsy to be able to cope with that smooth handle

 

[sten]

I have had the most incredible shaves the past three nights (generally shave at night) with a Razor Rock razor, Lupo if I recall correctly. It was an incredible gift and I think the baseplate is a a 110 gap. You wouldn't think of it as mild, but I get a mindless and smooth shave with it, surprisingly so.

Wow, that's the first time I've seen someone write that the Lupo could be used on autopilot! Is this the aluminium one?

 

[sten]

Have you ever used the old superspeeds. I recently pulled out an old flare tip and was really pleased. Very mild yet close shave regardless of blade. Even a Feather resulted in a perfect result.

I haven't. How to they compare to a black handle adjustable? I think it's a long-handle "Black Beauty", late 60s to late 80s, with no plastic parts.

 

[cvac]

Seems like OP has been searching for something for awhile. My simple recommendation is to pick a known good razor, nothing too weird, and simply work on technique. Lots of folks got used to vintage Gillettes or other common razors. Bad technique will lead to problems with any razor.

90%+ of the "sensitive skin" + "I need something super special razor wise" posts I see are down to bad technique. Unfortunately once bad technique is ingrained, it can be very difficult to "unlearn".

Well over half of the DE shaving YT vids I see are bad technique by someone that must have very tough skin or a masochistic personality.

 

[sten]

Just like my 1958-9 English aluminium handle Tech
View attachment 1686414

At a blade gap of around .26", a beautifully smooth yet efficient shaver, loves a keen blade but will happily accept almost all I've run through her.

I would highly recommend this @sten

Get the baseplates with the flat end cap which will be brass, like this. The aluminium handled examples will look identical to this.

The English aluminium swirl handled ones like mine come in at around 32 gms, and are very common on the English bay. Excellent examples can be picked up, with shipping to the CONUS, for around $45-50.

Here's a very clean example for £19.99 or $26.17 at latest exchange rates.
Vintage Gillette Tech Safety Razor | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195224361105?hash=item2d74475891:g:xu4AAOSwn21i1Fi6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Hp8sPDZu9Gb%2FsmCwJaoCjSX2YJX85eWkJSD%2BGcdUMKC9XEyoimaF4u%2FNfA0XG%2BjVAo4%2B1wmHkZv9zd8shmVGBpBFYHg7E%2BTfDN86sT6a2cX6GM2CWdFSjCd%2F1i1vixugqFm2O9eB0V%2F%2Fbrp7WSRSeAo38AjTeFqbsVyXq%2BV3G3ycF%2BZLgd%2BuWN3ujiHvx62h24kEDyZgt8QzTGdl9ElGaz1WI3ifNPUAx%2FYnNuKnqvCOAmBRfLBNL1FZ5uEOL%2Fp99rfaewJbZD87loR9OY33fHDBhRXjYMt7u7oR15yyumr%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9bRvPWqYg


Very often they come in shaving sets. Check these carefully, for there is often pure gold inside!

A timeless classic vintage, highly loved here and their resale value in the US will appreciate. Effortless efficient daily drivers. Just the sweetest shavers.

Good luck.

Wow, that's light like a Henson or a Lupo! Or rather, a Henson is light like an English aluminium handle Tech haha. So these are definitely smoother than a de89/r89? The reason I'm wary of Gillette is because of my experience with one that seems to be positive blade exposure, as well as a de89/r89 clone that has positive exposure; given that the new King Gillette razors use this head, it makes me wonder if this is part of their signature feel. And thank you for the link, I appreciate it, and am feeling burned out from so much research... That's one of the reasons it took so long to reply.

Ie: Techs seem to be a rabbit hole where they all shave differently.

 

[cvac]

I think it's a long-handle "Black Beauty", late 60s to late 80s, with no plastic parts.

I have owned vintage Gillette adjustables and Superspeeds. While there are some design/geometry differences, in practice they shave in a similar fashion. And to be blunt, if you cannot get a good shave with any of these razors, technique or some other problem is at issue. There's not a damn thing wrong with any of those razors and they were meant to work for the vast majority of people, and yes, even those with "sensitive skin".

A Tech is a bit different type of razor, but still very much feels like a Gillette. Maybe a bit more forgiving than some other common/popular models.

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

Seems like OP has been searching for something for awhile. My simple recommendation is to pick a known good razor, nothing too weird, and simply work on technique. Lots of folks got used to vintage Gillettes or other common razors. Bad technique will lead to problems with any razor.

90%+ of the "sensitive skin" + "I need something super special razor wise" posts I see are down to bad technique. Unfortunately once bad technique is ingrained, it can be very difficult to "unlearn".

Well over half of the DE shaving YT vids I see are bad technique by someone that must have very tough skin or a masochistic personality.

^^^ This ^^^

... Thom

 

[anoop]

You could try this. It’s cheap. Not an endorsement for this vendor.

 

[Ron R]

I have been giving this a little thought what would be a great shave for you and if a person needs a clean shaven face for work and I think after you have used RR SLOC and RR old type, 2 very nice mild razors.
The only best solution would be go to the AC type blade like a Kai Protouch guarded type blade and use a RR v2 Black hawk razor(on sale now black Friday) or a Yaqi Excalibur head with your favorite handle, 2 very affordable shaving systems that will perform very well.
The blades are pricey but they are the most forgiving and best blade to avoid irritation and nicks when using a Kai Protouch or Feather proguard blade. These blades prevent the edge from digging into the flesh and just skim the surface for a DFS>BBs and adds a for very fast shaving for fellows who are in a hurry IMO.
(Old archive photo, very nice blade I have used and many others also)

Have some great shaves!

 

[Goblin]

Well over half of the DE shaving YT vids I see are bad technique by someone that must have very tough skin or a masochistic personality.

Preach, brother! Honestly, if I tried to shave like some of the guys on YT my face would be a complete disaster area.

In response to OP, I don't have measurements for the new Merkur 34c and I haven't seen any online. I am just basing it on my observations from eyeballing the new and old razors next to each other, plus feedback and discussion garnered from various sources.

I incline to agree with what others are saying - you have tried quite a few razors and seem to be rejecting a lot of popular options because of perceived problems which nobody else seems to experience. It might be time to look at the other side of the equation.

There's something to be said for finding a razor that you really love, but as I so often say: when your technique is good enough you can get a good shave out of pretty much any razor. That's coming from someone who also has pale and "reactive" skin (which is a good term for it) in terms of allergies to the majority of soaps, stubborn dermatitis, eczema, etc.

So, I say go with a pre-war Tech and just stick with it. It doesn't have the covered tabs of the GC0.68 but shaves very similarly - mild but efficient. It has worked for millions of men, and if you persevere with it then it should work for you too.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I have been giving this a little thought what would be a great shave for you and if a person needs a clean shaven face for work and I think after you have used RR SLOC and RR old type, 2 very nice mild razors.
The only best solution would be go to the AC type blade like a Kai Protouch guarded type blade and use a RR v2 Black hawk razor(on sale now black Friday) or a Yaqi Excalibur head with your favorite handle, 2 very affordable shaving systems that will perform very well.
The blades are pricey but they are the most forgiving and best blade to avoid irritation and nicks when using a Kai Protouch or Feather proguard blade. These blades prevent the edge from digging into the flesh and just skim the surface for a DFS>BBs and adds a for very fast shaving for fellows who are in a hurry IMO.
(Old archive photo, very nice blade I have used and many others also)
View attachment 1752680
Have some great shaves!

I’ve never used a RR Hawk 3, but I decided to use a two razor solution. I use the ESC/Alpha Claymore Evolution around my nose because like @sten , I have some pesky whiskers that grow right next to it and up into the nostrils. The Claymore Evo gets to them better than any razor I’ve tried. For me, it’s also a mild but efficient razor that can work for an entire shave.

However , over the last year and 9 months or so, I’ve been lead to some razors that are a half step up in efficiency and give me longer lasting shaves. I select one of the for the rest of the shave.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

If you can find a vintage Star 100 I think you'd be pleasantly surprised. Very inexpensive, very mild, very efficient.

The Star would be an excellent choice.

The vintage Schick Krona TTO would be another. Mine, in excellent condition, was $10 including shipping on eBay a few years ago meaning I got very lucky, but they're not particularly hard to find.

This is a Mergress. It's another good choice. It's a jazzed up Progress, but the shave is the same as a Progress. Plenty mild on low settings. I've used the Mergress/Opgress razors a lot, and highly recommend them.

I tend to prefer mild razors with excellent effectiveness and sufficient efficiency. My Damn Comfortable Shave thread, particularly in the last couple of years, is loaded with good options in that category.

There are a number of very good choices. Much is technique of course. Some is subjective, too.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Big_T]

For around the nose or other pesky areas, I don't think the Blackland Vector can be beat.

 

[Trikuha]

You've described your needs very well. My answer to your question is the Razorock Game Changer .68 safety bar razor.
If you decide to loosen up the budget, Tatara Masamune.

Here you have the answer. The Tatara is more expensive but is very well made and has a somewhat more modern design. Now they have a 25% discount for Black Friday, it's a good excuse to go for it.

 

[Ron R]

The Yaqi is rather aggressive even with the Kai mild blades in my experience

Where you using the Protouch or just the naked Kai mild blades. I used the Protouch guarded blades in my AC Shavette and it was like night and Day difference in comfort compared to a naked edged blade and performance was great. You will see lots of folks using the Feather or Kai guarded blades in aggressive razors that they payed a lot of $money for and are happy campers using them is what I noticed.
According to Feather and Kai manufactures they are the best blades they can offer for performance and comfort has been my limited research.