DE Questions, Recommendations

[Fourbtgait]

First time posting but have been going through the site read for a week.
when I recently decided to go back to DE razors, I had no clue how convoluted it could be. Last time I used one was in the 70’s, probably with a Gillette, then a Schic SE.
Retired now, shave only 2, maybe 3 times a week. Frustrated with cartridges clogging, having to use a tooth brush after each stroke. Normal to not sensitive skin. I guess thick hair, on average 1/4-3/8” long when I shave. Not looking to spend a lot of mone, just making the best decision To buy once.
1. Is an open comb better for this situation? Would a closed skim over the longer hairs?
2. Not easy to find info on razors about aggressiveness, am I wrong in thinking moderate?
Being uncertain of how they cut for my situation, I have given thought to adjustable, find the setting I like and leave it.
3. Rockwell 6C comes to mind, I would think not much bulk in the razor head because you change the bar, should be easy to clean out?
4. Parker Variant possibly.
5. Or if I knew more of blade gap, a standard DE.
thoughts appreciated.

 

[Alum Ladd]

First time posting but have been going through the site read for a week.
when I recently decided to go back to DE razors, I had no clue how convoluted it could be. Last time I used one was in the 70’s, probably with a Gillette, then a Schic SE.
Retired now, shave only 2, maybe 3 times a week. Frustrated with cartridges clogging, having to use a tooth brush after each stroke. Normal to not sensitive skin. I guess thick hair, on average 1/4-3/8” long when I shave. Not looking to spend a lot of mone, just making the best decision To buy once.
1. Is an open comb better for this situation? Would a closed skim over the longer hairs?
2. Not easy to find info on razors about aggressiveness, am I wrong in thinking moderate?
Being uncertain of how they cut for my situation, I have given thought to adjustable, find the setting I like and leave it.
3. Rockwell 6C comes to mind, I would think not much bulk in the razor head because you change the bar, should be easy to clean out?
4. Parker Variant possibly.
5. Or if I knew more of blade gap, a standard DE.
thoughts appreciated.

I would stick to the tried and true classic vintage.

The 195 or Slim Adjustable have excellent versatility, and they can be picked up far more easily than in the UK where I live.

You should be able to get an excellent 195 or Slim for $50-70 max from my reading of the US vintage market.

Built like tanks and superb razors, with a highly acceptable efficiency range from a mild Tech shave to a very efficient and aggressive setting to deal with multi-day growth.

 

[helicopter]

I agree Open Comb is a good way to go, and that moderate is probably good, or mild-moderate.

There aren't a lot of open comb adjustables. Parker Variant and Yaqi Ultima are available with them.

You could try a Razorock Game Changer Jaws 68, or an old Gillette.

 

[helicopter]

I would stick to the tried and true classic vintage.

The 195 or Slim Adjustable have excellent versatility, and they can be picked up far more easily than in the UK where I live.

You should be able to get an excellent 195 or Slim for $50-70 max from my reading of the US vintage market.

Built like tanks and superb razors.

If OP doesn't need open comb then I would agree a slim is a great option for an adjustable.

 

[HellGuapo]

Welcome to the B&B. There will be others to help out shortly.

I would think an open comb would be good for shaving every 2+ days. You already have some experience with the now vintage razors, and for the most part, they shave how you remember. More important, maybe, is blade choice. You will hear many suggestions, mine is Astra platinum or Personna comfort coated/lab blue.

 

[flash75]

Closed or open comb.. Depends. You have to try if a closed comb works for you.
If you are willing to improve your technique maybe try a Mühle R41.
It should solve all of your problems, but has to be used with a proper respect.
At least for me it's the only OC razor that works. But your face, your rules of course.

 

[Alum Ladd]

1. Is an open comb better for this situation? Would a closed skim over the longer hairs?

I think it's a fallacy that an OC is somehow more effective than a SB. Both do a good job. Prep, technique and a prudent blade choice tops razor design IMO.

A nice OC however is the Gillette NEW, which should be inexpensive and easily available to you. They come in short and long comb variants. Basically the length and curvature of the teeth signifies their subtle design difference. I have had great results with the short comb but opinions vary on that. Some Gents prefer the long comb variant. I enjoy both.

An excellent additional razor to have however. A 195 or Slim and a NEW should cover all your needs.

 

[Joezamboni]

If you’re dealing with hair that tends to clog you’re going to have some tough choices.

An adjustable safety bar works well. In terms of performance/value an early Gillette super adjustable is nice and they tend to be a little cheaper than a ”slim” and feel better in hand (my opinion). You’ll have to deal with potential used razor risks like bent safety bars but Slims and super adjustables tend to have fewer. A modern adjustable may work well but I’m not familiar with many.

Reality is the “buy once” thing may not work well with your situation. I’d just try to limit your cost per razor and see what tends to work best. I’ve seen $10 Gillette open comb news that were slightly rough but serviceable and it’s not uncommon to find super adjustables for under $30 shipped that are in decent shape.

 

[cpcohen1945]

There's a chart of razor aggressiveness here -- first RazoRocks own razors, then other makers:

RazoRock Razor Scale - The Bottom is the Mildest and The Top is the Mo – ItalianBarber

If you are looking for placement on the scale for the new RazoRock Superslant razors, please see below:L1, L1+, L1++, L1++OC - MILD-MEDIUM(L1 being the ...

www.italianbarber.com

There are two open-comb adjustables I know -- Parker Variant open-comb, and Pearl Flexi open-comb. I suspect that, with a few days of growth, an open-comb razor might be a good choice. (I have the Flexi closed-comb -- it's very good, but not cheap.)

RazoRock has a "SLOC" razor, which looks like it's all open teeth, on the top cap and baseplate. It sits in the middle of the "Medium aggression" range, and gets very good reviews on the RR site, and costs $20 US (with handle). Might be worth a try.

 

[Fourbtgait]

Thank you for reminding me if that chart. I have looked at several and currently thinking a GC SLOC, open head, medium aggressive and low cost. I had not read up on it before, so looking, reading now. The price is good to test, especially since I haven’t shaved for a week now and the wife is looking at me funny….

 

[profusion]

Here's a very low-cost option from RazoRock to test whether you like open combs, their Old Type:

RazoRock OLD TYPE Open Comb DE Safety Razor – ItalianBarber

RazoRock OLD TYPE Open Comb DE Safety RazorFOUR HANDLES TO CHOOSE FROM, USE THE DROP DOWNModeled after our favorite open comb design, the RazoRock OLD T...

www.italianbarber.com

Reputedly milder than the ancient Gillette that it's modeled after, and the price is excellent.

 

[AshleyC]

The issue I have with open combs is the smoothness, or lack thereof of the machined contours of the combs. Some open combs, like my Peal Flexi, create a "raking" sensation on my skin. In hindsight, I should've bought the solid bar Flexi instead.

As far as hair toughness dictating open or closed, I present these images, by popular demand.

My beard, mostly at 72 hours or so from previous shave. That's tough stuff. But the best shave I ever had, best outcome, most comfort, least amount of "sting" from aftershave, was with a Fatboy set to "9" with a Derby Premium, 3 passes and cleanup.

If I were my age, but Amish, and decided the beard with no mustache look just had to go, my "get rid of this" first shave would be with an open comb. Otherwise, solid.

 

[blade08]

In my opinion a CC or OC razor make no difference.

You said "Not looking to spend a lot of mone, just making the best decision To buy once"

My suggestion based on that is a Lord L6 or a King C. Gillette.

After you bought your new razor, leave B&B immediately. Otherwise the AD's will kick in and the floodgates will be opened. And a bunch of enablers will 'help' you to buy stuff you never even knew existed.

Be warned

 

[Goblin]

4. Parker Variant possibly.

If you were completely new to DE this mightn't be ideal, but it sounds as though the new Variant OC could be just the thing. I have never owned an adjustable and I must admit to being tempted by this one myself.

Recommendations for a vintage adjustable also seem solid.

For what it's worth, I enjoy my Fatips for shaving every couple of days. Cheap. Look cool. Made of brass so will last forever. They are pretty aggressive and a little "idiosyncratic" thanks to their Italian handmade craftsmanship, but the shave is hard to beat when paired with a nice sharp blade.

The only negative might be that they would be a little too much for daily shaving (at least for me), but you could always pick up a Gillette Tech for the instances when you need to shave again after 24hrs to presentable for a function or something.

I think Fatips are a little more expensive in the US than over here but you could probably get a Fatip and a Tech for $40 and basically have all your bases covered.

 

[Fourbtgait]

In my opinion a CC or OC razor make no difference.

You said "Not looking to spend a lot of mone, just making the best decision To buy once"

My suggestion based on that is a Lord L6 or a King C. Gillette.

After you bought your new razor, leave B&B immediately. Otherwise the AD's will kick in and the floodgates will be opened. And a bunch of enablers will 'help' you to buy stuff you never even knew existed.

Be warned

To late.
I occasionally watch short video clips on Facebook. Every other video is about razors….

 

[Fourbtgait]

For those that say I should go vintage, I suppose I could start using one of the Rolls Razors I have. Do need a new strop in one.

 

[VaughnB]

Closed or open comb.. Depends. You have to try if a closed comb works for you.
If you are willing to improve your technique maybe try a Mühle R41.
It should solve all of your problems, but has to be used with a proper respect.
At least for me it's the only OC razor that works. But your face, your rules of course.

+1 on the Muhle R41. It's around $25 for the head on Amazon and just get a handle for it. Like flash75 mentioned, you would need to improve your technique with it. As far as the vintage razors, they can be purchased cheap. It may be a gamble on the function with some having misalignment or other issues. There are some on Etsy that Chris Spencer @ Back Roads Gold sells refurbished, but at the price you could already get a Parker Variant or Pearl Flexi. Open and closed comb is up to you to decide.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I think it's a fallacy that an OC is somehow more effective than a SB. Both do a good job. Prep, technique and a prudent blade choice tops razor design IMO.

A nice OC however is the Gillette NEW, which should be inexpensive and easily available to you. They come in short and long comb variants. Basically the length and curvature of the teeth signifies their subtle design difference. I have had great results with the short comb but opinions vary on that. Some Gents prefer the long comb variant. I enjoy both.

An excellent additional razor to have however. A 195 or Slim and a NEW should cover all your needs.

I have such limited knowledge about and experience with Vintage razors. I will say this.... I recently purchased both NEW Long and Short Comb razors and enjoyed shaving with them both.... I like the simple design of a 3 piece razor. I know there are quite a few adjustable razors on the market, both Vintage and Modern loved by a whole host of people, but I like having one blade gap and simply choose razors that work with my skin and whiskers...The NEW long and short combs both work for my old man, grey and coarse whiskers.

It's always a YMMV thing, but I like relaxing, smooth, comfortable yet close shaves that last for 12 hours before I feel any whiskers poking back through my chin....Both NEW long and short combs accomplish that easily.... With very little effort, even with a few days growth.

 

[Fourbtgait]

GC SLOC received in mail today along with a free box of Derby Extra blades, the Astra Superior Stainless and Feather Hi Stainless I ordered to try.
Used the Derby to try tonight on 3 day old growth. Even with it being 40+ years since using a DE, no issues or learning curve to speak of. The blade is noisy when cutting. No problems with the open comb, razor cleans out easy.
Biggest problem was trying to get blades out of the box, into the razor. Beat up fingers from remodeling and such from life.

 

[Alexland]

A noisy razor/blade combo is a cracking result! I know you wanted to buy once but can I tempt you to upgrade to the 316 marine grade stainless steel Yaqi Mellon SLOC head?