Used Bicycle Cost?

[Rockytop]

My son is looking for a used mountain bike. He found one at a local bike shop that meets his budget (what dad will pay for while he is still in school). It is an 80's something Fuji Thrill. It seems to be in good condition for it's age. It is an 18 - 20 inch frame. He is 6-4 so I think the frame will fit. The shop took it in on a trade. They swear by the components, saying they even replaced the brakes.

They are asking 125.00. Does this seem right? Where is the best place to find a bike in the 100. to 300. dollar range?

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[bradyarz]

try pinkbike.com. tons of good classifieds on parts and whole bikes all over the us and canada.

if he's 6'4" that frame size might be a bit small for him. i'm no expert by any means, but a true 21" frame might be better if you can find one.

 

[mmack66]

It is hard to say without knowing more about the makeup of the bike, but $100-$300 should get a decent used bike. For other sources, I would look on Craigslist or go to a local bike shop and see if they have any used bikes.

 

[C Reed]

1 frames are not in inches, ever. Bikes are metric, every part.

2 there have been massive advances in bike tec since the 80s and this applies much more to mountain bikes especially if he will be riding it on the mountain.

3. top tube is a much more important part of bike fit then seat tube.

4. there is no guide price.

When buying a bike you need to consider how far and how often you will ride it, what conditions you will ride it in and how long you want to keep it. Never buy a bike with out brand name componantry on it. Never buy a bike with visible rust or dents.

 

[mmack66]

1 frames are not in inches, ever. Bikes are metric, every part.

Maybe that is true of road bikes, but all of the mountain bikes I have purchased have the frame size in inches. I live in the US, so that might make a difference.

 

[Strikermike]

I would look at something no older than the late nineties. Suspension on bikes started getting pretty common then. Make sure the head tube is 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. that way if he wants to put a suspension fork on it he can. I have a 93 Stumpjumper, which was a good bike for its day. But the head tube is only one inch so my upgrade path is quite limited. Plus the later derailleurs are much better.

 

[TimmyBoston]

if he's 6'4" that frame size might be a bit small for him. i'm no expert by any means, but a true 21" frame might be better if you can find one.

+1, an 18" would be small for someone 6'4"

 

[Stubblefield]

Given it is a late 80's make, I doubt it has suspension. Also, putting a suspension fork on a bike not designed for it is an accident waiting to happen.

Someone 6'4" really belongs on a 20-21" frame, unless they were dirt jumping or shuttling. So if the seat tube measures in at 20", he should be OK. Any smaller, look for another bike. And while top tube is a more useful measurement, it takes a bit of riding to figure out your ideal. Until then, use seat tube since seat tube to top tube lengths are always proportionate. I myself prefer front center measurement--but that is more of a DH measurement.

$125 is an OK deal, I assume he is going to be riding trails or kicking around town with it.

 

[Strikermike]

Given it is a late 80's make, I doubt it has suspension. Also, putting a suspension fork on a bike not designed for it is an accident waiting to happen.

You are correct the geometry of the head tube is different. But some 90's and later bikes had suspension forks in mind even if they were not stock.

 

[C Reed]

Maybe that is true of road bikes, but all of the mountain bikes I have purchased have the frame size in inches. I live in the US, so that might make a difference.

I live in the US as well and I've worked in bike shops over here (and for a custom frame builder), mountain bikes are in metric too...

its besides the point however.

It depends on what he is using the bike for but generally in a mountain bike I look for a hard tail, decent front shocks, disk brakes, good components, indexed shifting, some thing I can lift with one arm and a good top tube length.

 

[Stubblefield]

You are correct the geometry of the head tube is different. But some 90's and later bikes had suspension forks in mind even if they were not stock.

I'm actually not thinking of the geo, which would be slackened out, depending on what fork you tossed on there-- but of the welds--anything that came stock with a solid fork will generally not have a beefy enough HT and welds. The stresses that a suspension fork puts on a headtube are far greater than what will be produced with a solid fork. Since the OP is looking at a bike made in the 80's, when suspension was not common, it is a valid point.

I live in the US as well and I've worked in bike shops over here (and for a custom frame builder), mountain bikes are in metric too..

Most manufacturers list both nowadays.

Take care.

 

[Legion]

If he's 6'4 I would recommend trying to find a second hand 29're (mountain bike with 29" wheels instead of the usual 26") I'm 6'3 and mine fits me great. I always feel a little cramped on regular bikes, even big framed ones. 29'res are considered to be a bit oddball by some people but they are fantastic if you are big.

 

[C Reed]

If he's 6'4 I would recommend trying to find a second hand 29're (mountain bike with 29" wheels instead of the usual 26") I'm 6'3 and mine fits me great. I always feel a little cramped on regular bikes, even big framed ones. 29'res are considered to be a bit oddball by some people but they are fantastic if you are big.

I'm also a fan of 29er's big wheels make alot more sense then small ones, in fact my last mtn bike was a single speed 29er perfect for hills in whales.