Trigger pull is inconsistent on Micro 9.

[BigFoot]

I will readily admit I do not know a lot about 1911's. The trigger on the micro 9 is very inconsistent. 1 time it feels like you have to pull it into the grip to trip the hammer, the next time it is really smooth. Does that sound like maybe I just need to take it down and polish things up?

 

[jkingrph]

Get a small Loupe, about a 10x so you can see and judge surface conditions better. I have a Sig P238 and 938. I took them both down and very lightly stoned the hammer and sear engagement surfaces, and then looked at the trigger bar that goes from the trigger to the sear. It was like many parts of that nature a stamped part, so a bit of minor stoning and just a touch or two in the channel in which it rides did wonders. You do not want to remove all the rough looking areas on stamped part, nor all the mill marks on sear and hammer, just polish the surfaces so that there are smooth bearing surfaces. Some of those rougher looking, sub surface areas can actually help by retaining lubricant in place.

 

[Rob72]

It does sound like you have a burr or uneven edge in there. This is typically the case when your trigger bottoms out, and it takes the extra micrometric pull to disengage the sear. Your Micro 9 is more like the old Astras than a standard 1911, in that it uses a pivoting trigger with transfer bar instead of the flat horizontal travel 1911 style.

I suspect that this could be of substantial help to you:
Spyderco Square file

Much finer than similar India stones and produces a very nice finish. Once your corners are squared, this is fine enough that you can lightly "break" them by drawing the squared edge over the stone with a gentle rolling motion, which produces a no-hang micro bevel.

 

[jkingrph]

I have a set of those little ceramic files. I find a triangular best to smoothe up what I call the race, or groove in the frame and slide. The square for more easily accessible surfaces, or to lay on a table and then move a small part like sear to polish vs holding the file in hand, probably a personal preference. However best for you to maintain the proper sear angles.

 

[BigFoot]

Thanks guys, I will take it apart this weekend and give that a try. It's a carry gun so I like the hard trigger pull, I just want it to break consistently.

 

[Mhinagoya]

Please stay away from the sear to hammer hook interface. You can inadvertently make a machine gun pretty easily while destroying both the sear and hammer and good ones aren't cheap. The 1911 was designed with early 20th century technology. This means hand fitting. I do my own, but I have invested in tooling and scrapped hundreds of dollars worth of parts learning how. If you only own one or two 1911s it is way cheaper to pay a gunsmith to sort it out for you. I am speaking from personal experience.
If you want to try the 'parts cannon' approach, send me a pm and I will provide you with a potential parts list. You MIGHT be able to fix it by swapping parts, maybe. Bill.

 

[BigFoot]

So I cleaned it up extremely well, and shot 100 rounds through it today. The trigger started becoming much more consistent. I may not have been patient enough as it was breaking in. Even 9mm wears your *** out after 100 rounds with that pistol.

 

[jkingrph]

Please stay away from the sear to hammer hook interface. You can inadvertently make a machine gun pretty easily while destroying both the sear and hammer and good ones aren't cheap. The 1911 was designed with early 20th century technology. This means hand fitting. I do my own, but I have invested in tooling and scrapped hundreds of dollars worth of parts learning how. If you only own one or two 1911s it is way cheaper to pay a gunsmith to sort it out for you. I am speaking from personal experience.
If you want to try the 'parts cannon' approach, send me a pm and I will provide you with a potential parts list. You MIGHT be able to fix it by swapping parts, maybe. Bill.

I am no expert, having ruined a hammer sear on a Marlin lever action years ago, no real problem, just ordered new parts. Whenever I get a new hammer type gun like the Micro 9 mentioned, or in my case a Sig P938 and 238, I strip them down and give those surface you mention a couple of very light strokes with a hard Arkansas stone, not enough to round edges or change shape, just to smooth over any of the tiny burrs, milling marks left over from manufacturing. Never get aggressive, reassemble, and usually lube those parts with some moly paste for the first go round, It usually makes for a smoother, and sometimes a lighter pull by a few ounces, nothing major.

 

[OkieStubble]

Shooting Glocks for 25 years, every 1911 trigger feels like heaven to me.

 

[FarmerTan]

Shooting Glocks for 25 years, every 1911 trigger feels like heaven to me.

They are... distinctive.

 

[jkingrph]

My ex brother in law got caught up in the Glock craze back in the late 80's and I shot one of his and did not like it. Never touched another since then, preferring my 1911 types or Browning Hi Power.

 

[BigFoot]

Shooting Glocks for 25 years, every 1911 trigger feels like heaven to me.

Maybe that’s my problem the Glocks require muscle, I am squeezing to hard on the Kimber. Also scraped the hell out of two of my knuckles putting the slide back on. Quite the confounded operation.

 

[OkieStubble]

Maybe that’s my problem the Glocks require muscle, I am squeezing to hard on the Kimber. Also scraped the hell out of two of my knuckles putting the slide back on. Quite the confounded operation.

You're a pretty big guy. I would think that lil' Micro 9 gets lost in your mitts? How is it compared to your 43 in terms of holding and control during fire?

 

[Rob72]

Put a Vicker's Flat trigger on your OEM bar, and a Ghost Rocket 3.5# connector on there and don't look back. I tried a complete Vicker's trigger with bar and it was pretty bad. I'm not sure how you can bugger up the bend on the cruciform connector, but they did, it wouldn't even come close to the connector. I angled it up, squared the face, and flattened the top for that juuuust right connection and crisp let off. The OEM bars are plug-n-play for the same effect, and you won't have to change your underwear at the thought of dropping it, or having it in the property room for a few weeks... as one typically does with a nice 1911.



Sorry, OS, I was replying to you & didn't hit "insert quote".

 

[BigFoot]

You're a pretty big guy. I would think that lil' Micro 9 gets lost in your mitts? How is it compared to your 43 in terms of holding and control during fire?

It feels a lot smaller. But the recoil is absorbed nicely. It is sure not a target pistol though.

I looked for you today driving through OKC. I didn’t see you though.

 

[OkieStubble]

Put a Vicker's Flat trigger on your OEM bar, and a Ghost Rocket 3.5# connector on there and don't look back. I tried a complete Vicker's trigger with bar and it was pretty bad. I'm not sure how you can bugger up the bend on the cruciform connector, but they did, it wouldn't even come close to the connector. I angled it up, squared the face, and flattened the top for that juuuust right connection and crisp let off. The OEM bars are plug-n-play for the same effect, and you won't have to change your underwear at the thought of dropping it, or having it in the property room for a few weeks... as one typically does with a nice 1911.



Sorry, OS, I was replying to you & didn't hit "insert quote".

Great post and you are absolutely right about the cruciform. I have never tried the Vickers trigger and transfer bar but I have read some reviews that were wildly all over the place.

Many who do .25 cent trigger jobs to their Glocks will polish the top of their OEM crucible and pay no attention to the underneath side, especially the underneath back, rear portion of the crucible. One could still take off too much metal with an aggressive polish from a Dremel and still have problems. But a good polish by hand mostly, always will give really good results.

I always will suggest to new Glock owners who don’t like their triggers to start with a simple correctly done polish of internals and see what they think before changing out and swapping parts.

Most are served by the OEM 5.5, they just want something smoother. Or they just don’t understand enough about the nature of striker fired triggers.

I don’t think I would want my striker fired pistols trigger to be like a 1911’s or vice versa.

They are two completely different animals in how they go about doing what they do. Many prefer one over the other, but I have come to learn I can respect their differences and appreciate both.

 

[OkieStubble]

It feels a lot smaller. But the recoil is absorbed nicely. It is sure not a target pistol though.

I looked for you today driving through OKC. I didn’t see you though.

Us retired people hangout a lot at Golden Corral or the bingo hall.

You know I’m getting old, because I had to drive to Ada Okla yesterday on business and was driving eastbound I-40 and was going to exit southbound thru Seminole Ok towards Ada. I accidentally passed up my exit by 84 miles before I realized and had to turn around and head back I-40 west. Added an extra hour to my trip.

 

[OkieStubble]

It feels a lot smaller. But the recoil is absorbed nicely. It is sure not a target pistol though.

I looked for you today driving through OKC. I didn’t see you though.

Ok, where did you find the black female LEO emoji, cuz I looked everywhere and can’t find it? Seriously?

There wasn’t a black ‘male’ option?

 

[BigFoot]

Ok, where did you find the black female LEO emoji, cuz I looked everywhere and can’t find it? Seriously?

There wasn’t a black ‘male’ option?

I did that without my glasses. I didn’t even realize it was a chick.

 

[OkieStubble]

I did that without my glasses. I didn’t even realize it was a chick.

Wow, I did it without my glasses too. Do you shoot with corrective lenses or without?