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Thiers-Issard "Le Grelot" 6/8 Half-Hollow C135 Steel - Good first razor?

The Thiers-Issard "Le Grelot" is a fine razor that will certainly get the job done. I always recommend starting with a new, good quality, modern production razor. The quality is there and you are not battling against corrosion or the honing mistakes of a previous owner. If it all goes wrong it’s replaceable.

Along with the razor you will need a leather strop and a way to sharpen it. These items are not optional and you will need them right from the start. Make sure to allow for them in your budget. Ideally you will receive them with our before your razor.

Films are cheap, easy and remarkably effective. It’s by far the easiest and lowest cost way to start honing. You get a big grit selection for next to nothing, don’t need to worry about lapping stones and it takes up next to no room. The system remains a good base to build from if you layer branch out into different finishers.

Basic maintenance can be very straight forward. Don’t be put off by it. It’s part of the fun and with the help of the internet you will pick it up very quickly. The spine of the razor is a built in sharpening guide. It’s a clever design that allows you to place the razor flat on the honing surface for the perfect angle. It’s a lot easier than sharpening a knife that has no such guide.
Thank you for your response. The sharpening/upkeep was the biggest deterrent for me. I can't hold and angle to save my life with normal kitchen/pocket knives. I was watching a few youtube videos and like you said, the spine angle lying it flat on the stone seems so easy. I am hoping it is in real life! Ultimately, I would really love to be able to dial in a smoother more comfortable edge compared to DE/SE blades. If I can do that relatively easily, this will be a major win!
 
Thank you for your response. The sharpening/upkeep was the biggest deterrent for me. I can't hold and angle to save my life with normal kitchen/pocket knives. I was watching a few youtube videos and like you said, the spine angle lying it flat on the stone seems so easy. I am hoping it is in real life! Ultimately, I would really love to be able to dial in a smoother more comfortable edge compared to DE/SE blades. If I can do that relatively easily, this will be a major win!

This will not be easy but with practice you can get some exceptional edges at your own hand.
Very rewarding.
 
As well as a brush, soap and straight razor, you will need a decent strop. Heirloom Strops are highly recommend.

For honing I suggest that you set yourself up with a set of three diamond pasted (0.5μm, 0.25μm & 0.1μm) balsa strops.

That should be all you ever need for blade maintenance if starting off with a truly shave-ready SR. If you decide that you want to go down the honing rabbit hole, first consider setting yourself up with lapping film.
Thanks for the recs. I am still in the process of figuring out accessories. I appreciate a good place to start. Thanks again.
 
Great feedback. Thank you. You mention Esher edge - I think I need to do some more research in the types of edges out there. At this point, I am just looking for something smoother than an AC blade. But it would be great to dial it in even further after some experience. I also appreciate the input to the nuances how how Le Grelot/TI grind their rounds, I will make note of that when comparing to other when I pull up pictures. Thank you again.

the easiest and cheapest way to get honing yourself with consistent edges will be with films and pasted balsa if you don't have any set up now. but there are a lot of good feeling stone finishes too. I'd send my blades out to try different edges from good honers to see what I liked, or to judge my edges by. and you may never want to get into honing yourself. plenty of people send theirs out for refreshes too.
 
maggards (Brad) can put a good edge on a blade. I've had two honed by him in my early beginnings.

im partial to TI's and or Grelot's. I absolutely love them. if I were ever to buy a seven day set it would be from Thiers.

if you decided upon a TI and it is found to be not shave ready, I would volunteer to hone free of charge if you are in the US. all you would have to decide upon would be final finish (another complete discussion there.)

camo
I had to look up what a 7-day set was. To say you would buy 7 identical razors is quite the compliment! I really appreciate your most generous offer. I may have to take you up on that. With regards to "final finishes" - this is something I haven't really researched much. Any chance you can point me in the right direction to get a kind of "summary" of what is out there to start my search? My skin tends to be sensitive and shaving with Artist Club blades 2-days in a row is not my favorite feeling. I am looking for something smoother than that if that exists. I usually shave everyday.
 
The TI 6/8 half hollow is a terrific razor. I own one and love it. This half hollow is pretty close to full hollow.

C135 is harder than the German steel used by Ralf Aust and is therefore more work to hone. In terms of learning to hone, you will want to get yourself a beater to learn on.

TI has a reputation for the occasional razor with an uneven grind, so best to buy a TI from a reputable seller.


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Thanks Frank! The steel was probably the original reason I was drawn to TI. Glad to know you are having a great experience with it! Thanks again.
 
the easiest and cheapest way to get honing yourself with consistent edges will be with films and pasted balsa if you don't have any set up now. but there are a lot of good feeling stone finishes too. I'd send my blades out to try different edges from good honers to see what I liked, or to judge my edges by. and you may never want to get into honing yourself. plenty of people send theirs out for refreshes too.
Yes! I love this idea. Maybe a good plan would be to get some different hones done by some pros, and when I find one I really like, maybe I can invest in the stones to try to replicate it. I've heard this part of the process can get really intense with all the different stones out there. I am going to try to avoid that if I can as I have too much shaving stuff as it is. Not sure how long I will be able to hold out though.
 
I like Grelot blades. I would really like a Grelot in C135. 1/2 Hollow is good for me, I prefer heavier grinds, always have.

As for which blade for 1st razor - pick the one you like best. Better to be totally jazzed to shave with what YOU want rather than get the one you liked less but some guru told you it's a 'better' 1st choice.
There are a million reasons anyone might say use one blade over another. All of it is subjective; everyone is different. For example, round points are theoretically 'safer' but some guys prefer the way other points look and that might help them enjoy their razor more. I wouldn't put too much stock into what blade type people say is 'recommended', get a quality razor you like the looks of, get it honed correctly by someone that is known for producing good shaving edges, and you're in business.
Strop, lather, shave, repeat.
 
After some additional searching, the Thiers-Issard 1937 Special Coiffeur 6/8th also looks like a nice option and at a similar or lower price point. Decisions. Decisions!
The Special Coiffeur is a half-hallow, for reasons others have mentioned it may be less comfortable than a full hollow. I dont own one myself so dont have first hand experience.

I was where you were about 1 month ago, starting SR shaving. After playing with a vintage, I soon added a new 5/8 Ralf Aust a french/Pike point, and haven't any issues with it being pointy.

I also added TI "Crownsilwing" 5/8 or 11/16s which to me looks more like a half hollow. It feels a bit more rigid than the Ralf Aust, but the blade area itself is a fair bit shorter than the RA.

I have a few others on the way (both RA and TI), I tend to get carried away with new hobbies. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:

FarmerTan

"Self appointed king of Arkoland"
personally, I'd go full hollow vs. half as a starter. I really didn't like 1/2s early on and fulls will give you more/better feedback without additional danger of dicing yourself up.

I picked up a full hollow 6/8 Le Grelot C135 from Griffth Shaving and he does a good esher edge if you ask for it honed. I like the blade, and it became one of my dedicated travelers, because they retain edges well. I caught it on a sale for $130. he's got good looking restored vintages as well if you want to spend a little less.

you can get a Ralf Aust directly from Herr Aust with all the features you want on it in about 2 weeks from the order, wonderfully shave ready.

Maggards has a good rep for honing and service, and Portland has a good rep for customer service.

get whatever point that appeals to you. round points might be a touch safer early, but they're my least favorite point style. a square might dig the toe more as you learn, but the rounds tend to waste real estate to my more experienced mind. the Le Grelot/TI rounds as so slightly rounded with wasted space beyond the edge that they don't really factor to me.
Thanks for the link. I'm tempted by some of the "lots" of razors at Griffith. Wonder if I could learn to hone on them? Seems like a worthy pursuit in the cooler months...
 

FarmerTan

"Self appointed king of Arkoland"
The Thiers-Issard "Le Grelot" is a fine razor that will certainly get the job done. I always recommend starting with a new, good quality, modern production razor. The quality is there and you are not battling against corrosion or the honing mistakes of a previous owner. If it all goes wrong it’s replaceable.

Along with the razor you will need a leather strop and a way to sharpen it. These items are not optional and you will need them right from the start. Make sure to allow for them in your budget. Ideally you will receive them with our before your razor.

Films are cheap, easy and remarkably effective. It’s by far the easiest and lowest cost way to start honing. You get a big grit selection for next to nothing, don’t need to worry about lapping stones and it takes up next to no room. The system remains a good base to build from if you layer branch out into different finishers.

Basic maintenance can be very straight forward. Don’t be put off by it. It’s part of the fun and with the help of the internet you will pick it up very quickly. The spine of the razor is a built in sharpening guide. It’s a clever design that allows you to place the razor flat on the honing surface for the perfect angle. It’s a lot easier than sharpening a knife that has no such guide.
I feel so stupid that I don't even know the right questions to ask. Thanks for your post my friend.
 
Thiers-Issard 1937 Special Coiffeur 6/8th also looks like a nice option

I very recently bought this very razor from Knife Center at an attractive discount. They do not hone for their customers. I expect it is the same blade and similar scales to the TI Le Grelot 6/8 half hollow in C135. My 1937 is a fine entry level razor with no issues. It does not have a particularly round point, just enough not to be a square point.

I would not hesitate to recommend the 1937 as a starting point. I also have been touting the Dovo Carre 6/8 at a very attractive price at Royal Shave. Full hollow, grenadille scales, round point. I bought one of those too. It is a mid-level razor discounted to an entry level price point. If I was choosing only one razor of these two, it would be the Carre at $145 over the 1937 at $112.

While I only have a 5/8 round point Aust, either of those 6/8 Austs from Maggard would be a great entry razor at a very fair price. I expect these would be true full hollow grinds. With the synthetic scales and a hollow grind, the Austs will be lighter than either the heavily scaled Carre or the more heavily ground TI 1937 or Le Grelot

As for full versus half hollow, the Carre and 1937 actually have fairly similar grinds. I would describe them both as on the heavier side of of a full hollow grind, approaching half hollow. Personally, I believe a heavier grind is easier for a new SR shaver to maintain.
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As a Portland Razor fan, I am sorry to say that their Le Grelot is priced fairly, but no bargain. Between that and those Austs, buy a Maggard-finished Aust.

My concern for you is that straight shaving and basic SR maintenance has a serious learning curve before any big payoff in shave comfort. Whichever razor you buy and whatever gear and routine you adopt for maintenance, expect to invest time and attention to getting where you want to be.
 
My 6/8 half hollow is also a Special Coiffeur from KnifeCenter that I am super happy with.

I shaved with my TI 7/8 Basic Black yesterday. My face just loves C135. I will describe the feel as crisp.

Don’t be afraid about the whole honing thing. Yes, there is a learning curve, but it is not rocket science - you are just rubbing steel on stone/film/whatever.

My first stone was a Naniwa Super Stone 12000 (the thicker version). Great choice for me. I still use it regularly to finish/touch-up razors.


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I did email Griffith Shaving asking about the Le Grelot that he has in stock as its only $150. He said they only come in one grind so the half-hollow at Portland Shaving could be the same as the full-hollow that he has. This may be consitant with what a few of you said already that the half-hollow looks similar to a full hollow.
 
My 6/8 half hollow is also a Special Coiffeur from KnifeCenter that I am super happy with.

I shaved with my TI 7/8 Basic Black yesterday. My face just loves C135. I will describe the feel as crisp.

Don’t be afraid about the whole honing thing. Yes, there is a learning curve, but it is not rocket science - you are just rubbing steel on stone/film/whatever.

My first stone was a Naniwa Super Stone 12000 (the thicker version). Great choice for me. I still use it regularly to finish/touch-up razors.


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May I ask what you mean by crisp? What is the opposite feeling of that?
 
May I ask what you mean by crisp? What is the opposite feeling of that?

Different blades have different feels - like different cars have different rides - like Toyota having a firmer ride than Honda (at least to me). By crisp I am trying to describe how the harder C135 "drives" compared to a softer steel like the stainless steel J.A. Henckels used to make their Friodur razors. To each his own, but I really like C135. That said, I also like the crucible steel that Wade & Butcher used during the middle of the 19th century.
 
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