The Wanderers Guide - Episode 2

[Esox]

I tend to shave simply, find what seems the most efficient angle and try to stay with it, no changes, no buffing, but maybe I will try that week 3 or week 4

During my first fixed four I used my favorite kit. Fatip Grande, Polsilver SI, Yaqi Silvertip and Captain's Choice 45th Parallel cream.

I only used a single blade, flipped for each shave. I never tired of the scent of the cream, its great stuff, mild and very good.

Each shave was done at around 48 hours as I shave every other day. Each shave started directly ATG buffing and my razor didnt stop until I had no feedback from it. Then I'd wipe with a wet hand and feel around, knowing I'd be BBS everywhere but my swirls. I'd paint lather over my neck and buff in an opposite direction until I had no feedback again.

Every shave was the same. One full pass and less than a 1/2 pass clean up on my neck. Each shave done in under 5 minutes from loading my brush to toweling off.

Those shaves were so good I kept using the same kit for another week until I took the blade to shave #20. That shave was as good as any shave I'd had and better than most.

I only tossed that blade to try a Gillette Yellow, everything else staying the same, and I used that blade to shave #9. It didnt have enough left in it for a 10th.

My next fixed four was with a razor I like, my Gillette Regent, a blade I dont, Feather, and a soap I really liked, Tabac. By the last week I had more than my fill of Tabac. I'd also used 10 Feather blades.

My advice is, if you're planning on a fixed four, pick your best performing components and choose wisely. If any have a shortcoming, you will find it lol.

 

[Joncr]

During my first fixed four I used my favorite kit. Fatip Grande, Polsilver SI, Yaqi Silvertip and Captain's Choice 45th Parallel cream.

I only used a single blade, flipped for each shave. I never tired of the scent of the cream, its great stuff, mild and very good.

Each shave was done at around 48 hours as I shave every other day. Each shave started directly ATG buffing and my razor didnt stop until I had no feedback from it. Then I'd wipe with a wet hand and feel around, knowing I'd be BBS everywhere but my swirls. I'd paint lather over my neck and buff in an opposite direction until I had no feedback again.

Every shave was the same. One full pass and less than a 1/2 pass clean up on my neck. Each shave done in under 5 minutes from loading my brush to toweling off.

Those shaves were so good I kept using the same kit for another week until I took the blade to shave #20. That shave was as good as any shave I'd had and better than most.

I only tossed that blade to try a Gillette Yellow, everything else staying the same, and I used that blade to shave #9. It didnt have enough left in it for a 10th.

My next fixed four was with a razor I like, my Gillette Regent, a blade I dont, Feather, and a soap I really liked, Tabac. By the last week I had more than my fill of Tabac. I'd also used 10 Feather blades.

My advice is, if you're planning on a fixed four, pick your best performing components and choose wisely. If any have a shortcoming, you will find it lol.

 

[Joncr]

During my first fixed four I used my favorite kit. Fatip Grande, Polsilver SI, Yaqi Silvertip and Captain's Choice 45th Parallel cream.

I only used a single blade, flipped for each shave. I never tired of the scent of the cream, its great stuff, mild and very good.

Each shave was done at around 48 hours as I shave every other day. Each shave started directly ATG buffing and my razor didnt stop until I had no feedback from it. Then I'd wipe with a wet hand and feel around, knowing I'd be BBS everywhere but my swirls. I'd paint lather over my neck and buff in an opposite direction until I had no feedback again.

Every shave was the same. One full pass and less than a 1/2 pass clean up on my neck. Each shave done in under 5 minutes from loading my brush to toweling off.

Those shaves were so good I kept using the same kit for another week until I took the blade to shave #20. That shave was as good as any shave I'd had and better than most.

I only tossed that blade to try a Gillette Yellow, everything else staying the same, and I used that blade to shave #9. It didnt have enough left in it for a 10th.

My next fixed four was with a razor I like, my Gillette Regent, a blade I dont, Feather, and a soap I really liked, Tabac. By the last week I had more than my fill of Tabac. I'd also used 10 Feather blades.

My advice is, if you're planning on a fixed four, pick your best performing components and choose wisely. If any have a shortcoming, you will find it lol.

 

[Joncr]

I picked the ej 89, Derby, MWF, and my regular brush, a synthetic. they have always been the easiest on my skin, but have not given the closest shave. Part of what I will be hoping to learn is how to get a closer shave with this mild blade, mild razor and thick cushiony lather. I think I will start a thread see who else will try and share what they learned.

 

[Joncr]

FYI just started that thread.....will post their....join in if your inclined.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Good to hear you are trying one set up for an extended period. As the gents said earlier, the longer you stick with it, the more benefit it will be.

If a month seems a long time, it might help to know that I stuck with one set up for 20 years.

 

[Joncr]

Good to hear you are trying one set up for an extended period. As the gents said earlier, the longer you stick with it, the more benefit it will be.

If a month seems a long time, it might help to know that I stuck with one set up for 20 years.

20 years........hmmmm, maybe that is a bridge too far for me, I am 70.

 

[anemic]

It may have been in this thread (where was that?) where I first saw the tip to use the same gear for at least a week to really learn that brush, soap, razor & blade. Golden advice!

I continue to benefit from this tip. I'd gotten away from this method after I mastered both my first Tech (a Travel Tech for which I crafted a harbor freight brass punch handle) and my Slim. I then alternated between each daily. Seemed fine, shaving happily with my Astra SP blades.

But then somebody recommended I try Feather blades for my Tech.
Then I went on spring break with my Travel Tech.
The cognoscenti here suggested that I visit Pasteur's on 34th Street (so glad they sent me there!).
Then I returned home from spring break to find that ebay had sent me a new 1957 ball end tech with the cool logo on it (!).

So I found myself in a new ball game! I had to redeploy the "Use Same Gear For A Week" tip. I have played with the soaps though because I brought home both the Mitchells Wool Fat and the Williams and how can you let one just sit there ? And I used both of my boar brushes on them because I discovered that each of my brushes behaves differently with each soap. Therefore, I haven't been dogmatic about the tip.

I kind of wish I could shave a couple times a day haha, so much gear to use, so much enjoyment, so much fun to share the skills and knowledge here. I end the day with thoughts of shaving in the morning!

 

[dmshaver]

Thank you Aimless Wanderer for the great advice. I’ve read your original thread and this episode 2 thread. I’ve been DE shaving 5 months and have been switching out my kit regularly trying to find what I like. That’s been wreaking havoc on my technique. I’m going to stick with the same kit for a month and start learning my gear, face, and work on learning better technique.Thanks for sharing your experience!

 

[Tatuued1]

SO much goodness in these two threads. I plan to take the info to heart and try to get the techniques down. Day one on the blade was not a lot of fun for me with a new neck burn like I have never experienced. I appreciate your help.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

SO much goodness in these two threads. I plan to take the info to heart and try to get the techniques down. Day one on the blade was not a lot of fun for me with a new neck burn like I have never experienced. I appreciate your help.

Thanks for the feedback. I remember those times all too well, and they were the motivation for me to write these guides. The more people I can help shorten the learning curve, so they get to the great shaves quicker, the happier I'll be.

 

[niels]

Great article again @AimlessWanderer! The "thick lather" myth is not an over-exaggeration; I was really working at that as well as I had seen this on so many channels. With a thick badger brush, it does get a little messy with thinner lather as it puts a lot on your face. I also find the large badger brush tricky to nicely rub it into the upper lip and near the ear as it especially seems to want to fill up your nose. What are your thoughts here? Do you use a smaller brush with shorter hairs or perhaps a boar brush?

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I only have one brush, a boar brush. I can't really compare it to anything else, as it's the only brush I've ever used

A different brush changes things, different water (travelling, or moving home) changes things too. You have to take the time to tune in to the changes, and make adjustments as necessary.

I changed my soap today, and its changed everything. My next few shaves will be me trying to settle in to the new soap to figure out how to make it work FOR ME, which might mean me doing things differently to other people, even if they were using the same set up.

Once you master the basics, and eliminate the major hurdles, you'll start developing your own preferences and techniques. If you find the brush you're using is a little overwhelming, you can place two fingers on the bristles to minimise the splay. That might help you.

 

[niels]

I only have one brush, a boar brush. I can't really compare it to anything else, as it's the only brush I've ever used

A different brush changes things, different water (travelling, or moving home) changes things too. You have to take the time to tune in to the changes, and make adjustments as necessary.

I changed my soap today, and its changed everything. My next few shaves will be me trying to settle in to the new soap to figure out how to make it work FOR ME, which might mean me doing things differently to other people, even if they were using the same set up.

Once you master the basics, and eliminate the major hurdles, you'll start developing your own preferences and techniques. If you find the brush you're using is a little overwhelming, you can place two fingers on the bristles to minimise the splay. That might help you.

You are right. I will take my time getting used to all my current products. I already changed my soap this weekend to Boellis Panama 1924 (Coffret) which is a massive improvement to the hard-puck Floris Elite I was using. And 2 months ago I switched from the heavy Merkur Futur, which I did not like much, to the short-stemmed Gillette Flathead which I love. So enough to dial in
I really like the brush; it is just tricky to do the circular motion in those areas. I'l try using my fingers to bundle the brush more and see if this makes the "brushing-in" of the soap easier for those areas. Thanks for the tip!

 

[DougK]

The best things I ever did for myself with regard to shaving were to:

• Simplify my gear and stick to one setup for an extended period of time; and
• Make a slick lather rather than thick.

It really makes a difference. When I DE shave, I still use basically the same setup I settled on a few years ago, although I do change up soaps or cremes now and again. It's boring, but predictable. I can't remember the last time I cut myself with a DE.

 

[Go-T]

A whole lotta great info. even for a old guy...

 

[Finner]

So I followed the "rules" laid out in the Episode 1 since shave one about a month and half ago. I feel that I have had very good success with this approach and am very thankful for it.

My shaves are typically 3 passes, WTG - XTG -WTG respectively and I feel pretty good with that. I am however finding 2 main issues that advice would be helpful on.

1. For the life of me I can't seem to get the head of the razor high enough up to get a close shave on a thin set of the hairs just under each nostril. I am able to shave the hairs there but a thin line of hairs just under each nostril are never getting shaved as close as the rest of my face. I try and push my nose up or to the side with my hand, I also stretch my top lip down over my top teeth as well as a XTG pass. I just can't seem to get a really close shave on that small sliver of hairs just under the nostrils.

2. I am able to get a fantastically close shave that I am very happy with on the rest of my face but I have never achieved the same closeness on my neck. What recommendations are there for a closer neck shave?

One last thing to note. I came to this post to read episode 2 in hopes of getting some ATG tips and tricks as I feel that I am possibly at the point of making the move to an ATG pass. So any advice and thoughts on ATG would be very helpful.

Cheers,
Daren

 

[ajkel64]

A little late on the first post but thank you @AimlessWanderer, I have several of these plastic DE razors that weigh nothing and I was not 100% sure on how to go about the shave. Now I have some idea on how to use one.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

So I followed the "rules" laid out in the Episode 1 since shave one about a month and half ago. I feel that I have had very good success with this approach and am very thankful for it.

My shaves are typically 3 passes, WTG - XTG -WTG respectively and I feel pretty good with that. I am however finding 2 main issues that advice would be helpful on.

1. For the life of me I can't seem to get the head of the razor high enough up to get a close shave on a thin set of the hairs just under each nostril. I am able to shave the hairs there but a thin line of hairs just under each nostril are never getting shaved as close as the rest of my face. I try and push my nose up or to the side with my hand, I also stretch my top lip down over my top teeth as well as a XTG pass. I just can't seem to get a really close shave on that small sliver of hairs just under the nostrils.

2. I am able to get a fantastically close shave that I am very happy with on the rest of my face but I have never achieved the same closeness on my neck. What recommendations are there for a closer neck shave?

One last thing to note. I came to this post to read episode 2 in hopes of getting some ATG tips and tricks as I feel that I am possibly at the point of making the move to an ATG pass. So any advice and thoughts on ATG would be very helpful.

Cheers,
Daren

I'm glad I've been able to help so far, Daren.

As to below the nose, I think this will be very face specific. I haven't shaved my top lip for a few years, but never really struggled in the way you describe. I've got just enough gap between the nose and tache to get the razor in. I kind of got the comb in there, then rolled the razor back so the cap shoved my snout out of the way, if that makes sense. It's almost a scooping motion to get in and started. It's worth noting that I was using a closed comb razor, and the leading distance from the comb back to the blade isn't that great. I might have had to figure out some other method if that distance was any greater.

As to the neck, the skin is different to on the face, and I think that's part of the challenge. Another issue is which way your hair grows. Mine goes predominantly sideways, which makes it very difficult to get a good finish on the neck crease. I also have a couple of difficult spots below each ear.

A lot of people suggest skin stretching, but that doesn't always work well for me. In fact I sometimes go the other way, and relax the skin instead. It depends which razor/blade I'm using. In some spots, lowering the chin, instead of raising it or jutting it out, helps the hairs present better for me.

Also, don't feel restricted by vertical of horizontal. To get a perfect finish on the neck, I do some cross hatching with opposing diagonal strokes, or opposing intersecting arcs. Directly above the Adams apple is a real stinker for me, as I have a goatee, and the hair grows sideways along the neck crease, and it's not possible to get the razor in to squarely shave horizontally. This is further complicated by some spinal issues which stop me tilting my head right back, or jutting my jaw too far forwards.

In that area, I have to alternate going diagonally up, and diagonally down, with the head slightly skewed for a guillotine approach, so I'm nearly going ATG, but not quite, and scything it rather than chopping it.

The neck crease at the sides is easier for me. If I tuck my chin in towards my left shoulder, and curl my right shoulder inwards/forwards, this flattens out all the area below the jawline on the right hand side - no more neck crease, so I can go directly ATG with no obstacles or angle changes. Then shift my footing, and repeat the opposite way to flatten the left side out. That chin tuck technique makes a huge difference with my growth pattern. It also relaxes rather than stretches the skin, which as I mentioned before works better, as my skin is less bumpy/dimpled/textured that way, so I can get in close without shaving off the goosebumps. My usual featherlight touch clears the stubble just fine that way.

Some, all, or none of this may work for you. It's really tricky to advise on the "advanced" side of things, as that's where our own anatomical characteristics come into play, and though I have several thousand DE shaves under my belt, they've all been on just one face - and it wasn't yours

Experiment. Try different angles, different facial and neck contortions, skin loose and tight, a slight guillotine approach, different stroke speeds. Use "seek and destroy" touch ups, feeling for remaining stubble with a bit of lather on your non-dominant fingertips, and going after it with the razor in your other hand, in whichever direction the stubble feels worst.

Stick at it, experiment, and have fun

 

[AimlessWanderer]

A little late on the first post but thank you @AimlessWanderer, I have several of these plastic DE razors that weigh nothing and I was not 100% sure on how to go about the shave. Now I have some idea on how to use one.

You're most welcome. I hope it works out for you.