The Wanderers Guide - Episode 2

[AimlessWanderer]

Makes sense to me, Cheers Al

Cheers Mark. Thanks again for having a proof read of it before I posted it.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Thanks for this write-up especially the part about not making a huge foamy lather. It seems very counter-intuitive for newer shavers like myself. We assume that the more lather we put on that the more protection we will have and lowest risk of irritation but I can see your logic now and you are correct. Also I had not been putting enough water in my lather for a long time and I think its because the YouTube shaving celebrities often are using a dry lather. Also I thought a dryer lather would be "more protective" than a wet, thin lather.

So I had it all backwards. In fact I spoke badly about Proraso Red Tub and had a bad shave with it that gave me really bad neck irritation and a couple of weepers but I will revisit that soap this time being conscious to not over lather.

For over 2 years I was a bowl latherer and the reason why is because I felt that the foamy, voluminous lather I generated in a bowl was superior protection. I was wrong about that as well and have now switched 100% to face lathering and I have to remind myself that a nice thin slick lather is going to look more watery and transparent than what I normally thought a good lather "is supposed to look like". I thought a good protective lather would be consistency of hair moussee but that is not correct.

Thanks Vineeze. Experiment with the lather to see what works best to give you a good lubricating coating of your skin, as per the notes in the original guide. Being able too feel what is going off, will (in time) help you develop better skill and get closer shaves with less irritation. With the richer lather, you won't know whether what you are doing is right or wrong, until it's too late.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I completely agree with that Al.

A thick heavy lather may be a benefit to some when starting and learning as they'd be less apt to pay for mistakes made, but at the same time it hinders learning.

I'm not sure I'd want to shave with only water like @Dovo1695 has, water isnt slippery enough for me, but I have no doubt it can be done.

Cheers Mike,

I have done touch up with water only, but for a full shave, water alone isn't lubricating enough for me either. I probably could if I was desperate, but a well applied (no air gaps) thin lather works much better for me, especially on my neck.

 

[Vineeze]

Thanks again for your advice on creating a thin lather. I was doing the exact opposite for the last 3 years and I thought building a big Arko-Man lather would provide more protection.

But I shaved today with a very wet and thin lather (w/ Stirling) and had a fantastic shave, almost BBS actually. You are the only person I ever heard say "Use a thin lather so that you can better "feel" where the blade is going". If this practice can actually prevent weepers before they happen that it is truly indispensable advice.

And it saves lather too and saves money.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Thanks for your feedback Vineeze. Three years is a long time to be struggling with bad lather and lack of feel. Unfortunately thick product heavy "protective" lather is what newbies are often being led to seek via unhelpful YouTube videos etc. I'm glad you've finally got there though, and I hope your shaves continue to improve.

 

[Joncr]

Thank You Aimless Wanderer for both guides, I have been back to de shaving for about four years and wish I had read both your posts before I started back. I have learned, been reminded of several basics I guess I let slip. Angle, where to hold the razor. When you mentioned thinner lather, reminded me when I want a really close shave I use a cream like Kiss My Face, Cremo, or Trader Joe's to get the blade closer to the face.

One of the pleasures and advantages of DE shaving is being able to adjust the type of shave I can give myself. To me that means varying my shave from day to day based on the condition of my skin and what I want, from just to look well groomed on up to BBS still by dinner time. To do that I enjoy trying to 'fine tune' my shave by
- varying the lather I use, everything from a maximum cushion MWF, down to a thin and slick Kiss MY Face,
- varying my blade from a smooth not sharp Derby on up to the ultimate sharp Feather,
- switching my razor from a DE 89 all they way up very aggressive like an Ikon Tech/R41/Timeless Bronze .78.
That is a large part of the advantage and enjoyment of DE shaving for me.
which only goes to prove that old adage.....YMMV

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Thanks Joncr.

I need to be more consistent in my approach. That much variation would totally wreck my shaves. These days I stick to one soap (MWF) used with a thin lather. A mild razor, and almost any blade, and I'm consistently getting great shaves once I've had a couple or three shaves on that razor/blade to tune in to them. I do have a more aggressive razor, the Parker 22 Interceptor, but that one takes me longer to settle into, so I don't reach for it as often.

Oddly enough, I find it less disruptive to reach for a shavette and use that occasionally, than I do swapping between DE razors.

 

[Joncr]

Thanks Joncr.

I need to be more consistent in my approach. That much variation would totally wreck my shaves. These days I stick to one soap (MWF) used with a thin lather. A mild razor, and almost any blade, and I'm consistently getting great shaves once I've had a couple or three shaves on that razor/blade to tune in to them. I do have a more aggressive razor, the Parker 22 Interceptor, but that one takes me longer to settle into, so I don't reach for it as often.

Oddly enough, I find it less disruptive to reach for a shavette and use that occasionally, than I do swapping between DE razors.

yup YMMV and I would add GWWW ( go with whatever works )

 

[Joncr]

Been thinking over your approach AmlessWanderer, think I will try the one razor, one blade, one soap/cream for a week, maybe I can learn more about each of those if I don't change them every day? Certainly worth trying to learn from what works for someone else. Thanks again for all the effort it took to compose your Guide.

 

[Cal]

... think I will try the one razor, one blade, one soap/cream for a week, maybe I can learn more about each of those if I don't change them every day?

I recommend a Fixed Four for A MONTH! A week isn't enough to dial anything in really well, IMO.

 

[Joncr]

I recommend a Fixed Four for A MONTH! A week isn't enough to dial anything in really well, IMO.

Missed that thread when it came out. A whole month! Nothing like jumping straight off into the deep end. Read some of the comments and several mentioned they were learning in the fourth week. So maybe there is a value in going a whole month with the exact same set up. Maybe there should be a thread FFFM.....Fixed Four For the Month ? I am going to try this. Sometimes a set up will start giving me skin issues, so I will pick what seems to always work and see if I can go that long. One Question though, with adjustables, or razors like timeless with various base plates, are you allowed to change the setting or base plate?

 

[Esox]

A week isn't enough to dial anything in really well, IMO.

I agree. A week is a good starter, but you'll learn a lot more during the final week. Especially how long a blade will last.

During my first Fixed Four I used the same Polsilver for the entire 4 weeks, and then went another week on it.

 

[Joncr]

I agree. A week is a good starter, but you'll learn a lot more during the final week. Especially how long a blade will last.

During my first Fixed Four I used the same Polsilver for the entire 4 weeks, and then went another week on it.

nothing ventured - nothing gained, or learned

 

[Esox]

nothing ventured - nothing gained, or learned

I've been on this forum for just over a year. It's mind boggling how much I've learned in that time and even more surprising to myself how much my shaves have actually improved.

I never would have thought my shaves would ever have been as good as they are.

Once you find your best performing razor, blade, soap and brush then using the same thing for an entire month, or longer, really gives you a chance to learn them all intimately.

Thats when things really start improving.

 

[Joncr]

I've been on this forum for just over a year. It's mind boggling how much I've learned in that time and even more surprising to myself how much my shaves have actually improved.

I never would have thought my shaves would ever have been as good as they are.

Once you find your best performing razor, blade, soap and brush then using the same thing for an entire month, or longer, really gives you a chance to learn them all intimately.

Thats when things really start improving.

decided to try with some of my original setup, EJ 89, Derby blades, MWF, and Aqua Velva aftershave, my original brush is long gone. Will certainly be interesting to see what I can learn. Reading the forums threads comments can be massively educational, and saves quarts of blood.

 

[Esox]

Derby Extra were in my first sample pack over a year ago. They're still in my top 3 and I have almost 400 of them now. If I had to pick one blade for the 3 DE's I use, it would be them, but Polsilver is is a very close second.

I dont understand why they work so well for me and so poorly for others, but they are great in my NEW SC, Gillette Regent and Fatip Grande.

 

[Joncr]

Derby Extra were in my first sample pack over a year ago. They're still in my top 3 and I have almost 400 of them now. If I had to pick one blade for the 3 DE's I use, it would be them, but Polsilver is is a very close second.

I dont understand why they work so well for me and so poorly for others, but they are great in my NEW SC, Gillette Regent and Fatip Grande.

Derbys have always given me a smooth, irritation free shave, not the closest by a long distance, but whenever my skin feels in need of some TLC I use a Derby blade, have a little over 3 full tucks myself right now. BTW have you tried the Derby Prime blade ? did you notice any difference?

 

[Esox]

Derbys have always given me a smooth, irritation free shave, not the closest by a long distance, but whenever my skin feels in need of some TLC I use a Derby blade, have a little over 3 full tucks myself right now. BTW have you tried the Derby Prime blade ? did you notice any difference?

All of my Derby blades are the pre 2016 green packs. I havent tried any others.

Using a Derby in my NEW SC with my usual shallow angle gave me a BBS finish that lasted 4-6 hours. Super comfortable and easy on my skin.

Using the same razor with a very steep angle, all comb, the BBS lasted 10 hours. It was still comfortable enough but I felt like I had shaved.

In my Grande its a top pick for a 2 pass+ shave. It doesnt have the edge for buffing first pass ATG comfortably like a Polsilver or Gillette Yellow does.

My usual shave with a Derby in my Grande is one pass WTG/XTG and a steep angle, one pass XTG/ATG with a more neutral angle, then a simple clean up on my neck buffing lightly ATG giving me a BBS finish that lasts as long as any at 10-12 hours, and still a very comfortable shave.

That was actually my first shave with my Grande when I got it.

I started right side mid ear at the base of my side burn and as soon as the razor moved, I knew. That single stroke went right to the bottom of my neck as did all other strokes as I worked my way across my face.

Effortless full length strokes.

 

[Cal]

One Question though, with adjustables, or razors like timeless with various base plates, are you allowed to change the setting or base plate?

Fixed Four rules allow you to use any setting/baseplate you fancy with an adjustable. But you're best choosing your preferred setting/baseplate and sticking with that if you want to improve your technique.

 

[Joncr]

All of my Derby blades are the pre 2016 green packs. I havent tried any others.

Using a Derby in my NEW SC with my usual shallow angle gave me a BBS finish that lasted 4-6 hours. Super comfortable and easy on my skin.

Using the same razor with a very steep angle, all comb, the BBS lasted 10 hours. It was still comfortable enough but I felt like I had shaved.

In my Grande its a top pick for a 2 pass+ shave. It doesnt have the edge for buffing first pass ATG comfortably like a Polsilver or Gillette Yellow does.

My usual shave with a Derby in my Grande is one pass WTG/XTG and a steep angle, one pass XTG/ATG with a more neutral angle, then a simple clean up on my neck buffing lightly ATG giving me a BBS finish that lasts as long as any at 10-12 hours, and still a very comfortable shave.

That was actually my first shave with my Grande when I got it.

I tend to shave simply, find what seems the most efficient angle and try to stay with it, no changes, no buffing, but maybe I will try that week 3 or week 4