surfers unite.
- Thread starter smokeydave
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For chrissakes, post some photos of real surf!
We've got some fun surf on the Oregon coast. I'll get some photo's next time i'm out.
Just found this thread.
I live right between Ventura and the 'Bu - it's exactly what you'd imagine here: Good waves can be found most of the year, long points, beachies, rights, lefts, A-Frames, slabs, reefs - we got it.
We also have crowds - Last weekend my current favorite, Leo Carrillo (Secos), had 30 guys sitting next to the one, tiny takeoff spot. Malibu had well over a hundred out that same day, and I saw about 50-60 when I drove by County Line - but there are still spots where you can find a little corner alone (until a truckload of groms spot you...)
Localism - since nearly everybody had to drive a distance to get there and are used to crowds, localism is mostly tame (Unless you burn Matthew McConaughey), but certain spots demand etiquette be observed.
Water temps range from low 70's (a few days in late summer) to high 40's in the spring.
I have over a dozen boards - but only 4 see regular use these days:
5'11" Quad / Thruster (waist to 1.5x overhead)
7'4" Bonzer (Head to 2.5x overhead)
9'6" Walden Magic Model (knee to 2.5x overhead / crowd control)
10' Walden Classic (1.5x overhead to ????)
I live right between Ventura and the 'Bu - it's exactly what you'd imagine here: Good waves can be found most of the year, long points, beachies, rights, lefts, A-Frames, slabs, reefs - we got it.
We also have crowds - Last weekend my current favorite, Leo Carrillo (Secos), had 30 guys sitting next to the one, tiny takeoff spot. Malibu had well over a hundred out that same day, and I saw about 50-60 when I drove by County Line - but there are still spots where you can find a little corner alone (until a truckload of groms spot you...)
Localism - since nearly everybody had to drive a distance to get there and are used to crowds, localism is mostly tame (Unless you burn Matthew McConaughey), but certain spots demand etiquette be observed.
Water temps range from low 70's (a few days in late summer) to high 40's in the spring.
I have over a dozen boards - but only 4 see regular use these days:
5'11" Quad / Thruster (waist to 1.5x overhead)
7'4" Bonzer (Head to 2.5x overhead)
9'6" Walden Magic Model (knee to 2.5x overhead / crowd control)
10' Walden Classic (1.5x overhead to ????)
I should have taken some, my friend even had a waterproof camera. This is the only shot I took with water in it.
Iphone4 pic:
Great shot - looks a bit like Las Flores in El Sal!
(well, not really - I'm just sick of wearing a wetsuit and that looks warm!
)Flew up to RI last weekend for a Saturday afternoon wedding. Spent the morning at Narragansett Town Beach because Scarborough was closed. I had been watching reports and forecasts, but no wave was forecast. I thought it was odd since a south fetch was set up. Found waist to shoulder clean waves on the low incoming. After getting in the water for a swim and seeing it roll in I wandered down to the Warm Winds trailer and rented a couple NSP epoxy pop outs. My three kids and I went out for a couple hours. The majority of the folks in the water were surf campers or beginners and watched a few catch waves. Seventy-five degrees, water temp also in the mid 70s. What a glorious day and such a bonus on a trip to New England! If I could get 15 or 20 days like that a year, I'd move back and tolerate the winter. Enjoyed a little Del's Lemonade, too! Excuse the photos, but when it's breaking you don't wait for the set waves to get a shot!
The place was cleaned up nicely after Sandy. No rocks at the base of the wall like we saw a couple years ago. Sandy must have pushed them all over the wall?
The popouts were more than adequate for the conditions. Surprised at how well they got into waves and turned. If we didn't have a wedding to get to, we'd have stayed 'til sunset!
The place was cleaned up nicely after Sandy. No rocks at the base of the wall like we saw a couple years ago. Sandy must have pushed them all over the wall?
The popouts were more than adequate for the conditions. Surprised at how well they got into waves and turned. If we didn't have a wedding to get to, we'd have stayed 'til sunset!
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Paddled the 9'6" out at a local spot called Heavens
Mostly chest high & a bit walled up with a rare head high peak - a few little barrels, no exits (but fun to get the view!)
It was crowded (20+ heads), but a mellow vibe & having a few different peaks kept everyone spread out. - good fun!
Mostly chest high & a bit walled up with a rare head high peak - a few little barrels, no exits (but fun to get the view!)
It was crowded (20+ heads), but a mellow vibe & having a few different peaks kept everyone spread out. - good fun!
Not exactly a surf pic - but I thought it fit. A few weeks ago I had my 8yr. old in our kayak and a dolphin broke off from the pod and gave us a look. 
It's FLAT this week 
, and most of next:
http://forecasts.surfingmagazine.com/#place=33.715201644740844_-119.575195_7_1422_height_none_Sat_-1
Anybody getting waves?
, and most of next:http://forecasts.surfingmagazine.com/#place=33.715201644740844_-119.575195_7_1422_height_none_Sat_-1
Anybody getting waves?
Flat spell coming to an end soon as the tropics heat up. 
+1. Best part there is hardly anyone out! Grew up in California surfing Rincon and fighting people for waves, Oregon has great surf and nice people! Just a bit cold!
+1 love that!
Hadn't seen that before. Gotta watch that interview on youtube now...
Finally got some surf in this morning before work - it's been unrideable for about 3 weeks now.
Paddled out at Secos (Leo Carrillo State Beach) in the dark at 5am - there were already 2 of the usual suspects out. We were picking off set waves up to chest high all morning. By 6:30 there were about a dozen. Gotta love surfing in LA County!
It didn't look like this today, but here's a shot from Surfline of my spot when it's good:
Paddled out at Secos (Leo Carrillo State Beach) in the dark at 5am - there were already 2 of the usual suspects out. We were picking off set waves up to chest high all morning. By 6:30 there were about a dozen. Gotta love surfing in LA County!
It didn't look like this today, but here's a shot from Surfline of my spot when it's good:
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I surf Rincon now & then, mostly at night since it's so crowded (and there's a few spots around that can be just as good when conditions are right!)
Yes there are! Most people dont know them but they know Rincon. I loved surfing Leo. Ever surf Topanga Cyn?I surf Rincon now & then, mostly at night since it's so crowded (and there's a few spots around that can be just as good when conditions are right!)
I had a Shangri La gig for about 5 years:
I used to live on Oxnard Shores and had a night job in Santa Monica. Most nights I could finish my workload by midnight or 1am and my commute took me past Topanga, Malibu and Leo Carrillo - got VERY good at night surfing!
I used to live on Oxnard Shores and had a night job in Santa Monica. Most nights I could finish my workload by midnight or 1am and my commute took me past Topanga, Malibu and Leo Carrillo - got VERY good at night surfing!
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