Simplest wood scale finish/sealer

[stone and strop]

Thanks for all the input. I might try tru-oil for the time being. I've read CA should be used after sealing the pores, otherwise I'd be all for it. Is there a reason polyurethane or spar urethane seems to be uncommon? I saw it in one of these posts where someone discussed using a spray can and people seemed to think it would work. I'm slowly learning that I don't know anything about woodworking.

Polyurethane would work and would be a durable finish around water.
The problem with Urethanes, poly, varnish etc. is that each coat does not melt into the previous layer. They bind to each other but they are separate layers.
Spar varnish is an exterior grade varnish meant to hold up a bit better against U.V degradation.. It is also somewhat softer then Polyurethanes.
Lacquer and C.A (I believe) melts into the previous layer and become one thick layer. This is beneficial when sanding and buffing as you won't go through one of the layers and create a "witness line" of the layers. I know Lacquer does and C.A. creates heat when applied so I think it does too.
Lacquer, Varnish and polyurethanes add a yellow tinge to their substrate - it is a warm yellow that is often desirable.
Water based finishes do not offer the warm yellowing and look plasticky when applied without color first.
Hope this helps.

Forgot to add, Shellac. It is pretty soft as finishes go but can add the yellow hue you would be looking for. It melts to the previous layer as well but is not a very durable finish.

 

[Esox]

Spar varnish is an exterior grade varnish meant to hold up a bit better against U.V degradation.. It is also somewhat softer then Polyurethanes.

Thats a good choice too. Its marine grade and used on exterior wood finishing of boats. It can also be thinned and raw wood will soak it up pretty well.

 

[stone and strop]

Thats a good choice too. Its marine grade and used on exterior wood finishing of boats. It can also be thinned and raw wood will soak it up pretty well.

It is not the most durable though even though it would look nice.. Marine epoxy would be a better choice.

Wipe on Poly is very easy to use, leaves a great finish and is very durable if you want to go the Urethane way. If you wet sand the first coat it will fill the pores and make for a great base for subsequent coats. apply at least 3-4. More will not hurt.

 

[davent]

This is what I use.

View attachment 969521

For scales or anything I wanted a deep shine on I'd use use gloss. The shine can be as deep as an epoxy finish with a few coats. Make sure each coat is fully cured before sanding and laying on the next coat.

The drawback with a thick poly finish is, poly isnt as hard as epoxies and even fully cured you can dig a fingernail into it if you're determined too.

The bench above I built for a friend. Its designed to sit on while you're on your knees and the base of the legs are rounded so it rocks. This wax dries hard, but even on its own it imparts colour to raw wood.

View attachment 969524

I had a look at that bench again last fall. Despite fairly heavy use, it still doesnt need another coat.

Thanks! I've a tin Miniwax Finishing Wax in the Natural, couple decades old. For my finish i'm looking for minimal build so leaning towards a wipe on either home mix or premade. Have a bunch of finishing books to sort through yet.
Thanks again,
dave

 

[Esox]

It is not the most durable though even though it would look nice.. Marine epoxy would be a better choice.

Wipe on Poly is very easy to use, leaves a great finish and is very durable if you want to go the Urethane way. If you wet sand the first coat it will fill the pores and make for a great base for subsequent coats. apply at least 3-4. More will not hurt.

Epoxies are usually a better choice but more difficult, expensive and time consuming to work with. They also wont turn cloudy in extreme conditions, polyurethanes can.

Years ago I had to rebuild the wood transom in a small 12 foot boat and the friend I did it for said to just use what I had, and all I had was indoor semi gloss poly. After a day or two in the cold and wet fishing that poly turned cloudy, almost white. I tried it again on the small transom on my 16 foot freighter canoe and it did the same. It took about a year of being outside before it started to flake and peel off.

For anything that will see conditions they do, a marine grade finish is the only way to go with epoxies being clearly the better choice.

Thanks! I've a tin Miniwax Finishing Wax in the Natural, couple decades old. For my finish i'm looking for minimal build so leaning towards a wipe on either home mix or premade. Have a bunch of finishing books to sort through yet.
Thanks again,
dave

You're welcome!

Depending on what you're finishing, wax by itself can give a very nice finish but its a lot of time and work. The more coats you give it and the more you buff it the better it looks.

The only thing I wipe on is stains and then I buff as much of it off as I can.

 

[stone and strop]

Polyurethanes can go white bit it is usually caused from heat, not water. A hot coffee mug can leave a white ring on a lacquered surface but less likely to do so on Poly.

 

[Esox]

Polyurethanes can go white bit it is usually caused from heat, not water. A hot coffee mug can leave a white ring on a lacquered surface but less likely to do so on Poly.

Yeah, could have been the sun I guess. Lots can happen when wood is exposed to weather extremes year round.

 

[stone and strop]

U.V light is one the harshest elements to all finishes. Spar or exterior Varnish is more flexible (softer) for outdoor structures as they are more prone to movement through extremes in temperature. Spar has U.V inhibiters as well but they break down eventually.

 

[Esox]

Spar has U.V inhibiters as well but they break down eventually.

Nothing lasts forever, but Ipe comes close. There are city benches in Toronto made from Ipe that have an untreated life expectancy of 50 years. Its also one of the few woods thats rated as barefoot safe for decking materials because it doesnt splinter. Its hard to work with and very hard on saw blades and such though.

 

[stone and strop]

Nothing lasts forever, but Ipe comes close. There are city benches in Toronto made from Ipe that have an untreated life expectancy of 50 years. Its also one of the few woods thats rated as barefoot safe for decking materials because it doesnt splinter. Its hard to work with and very hard on saw blades and such though.

I have used IPE before but never thought about using them for razor scales. I've never been a fan of wood scales but IPE would certainly be a great choice.

And yes, Its harder than #%@&, like purple heart.

 

[davent]

Recently did a bit with some very old purpleheart i had around and it splintered like mad.
dave

 

[Esox]

I have used IPE before but never thought about using them for razor scales. I've never been a fan of wood scales but IPE would certainly be a great choice.

And yes, Its harder than #%@&, like purple heart.

Its dense too. I'd expect it to have more weight than most scale materials.