Shoes 101

[TheSentinel]

It seems there are a lot of threads on caring for shoes or ones with a very specific focus, but not a whole lot on the basics of what to look for in shoes. Is it really as simple as get some Allen Edmonds or Aldens?

As for my particular situation, I generally buy Rockports as they're quite comfortable and usually last until there's no sole left, but they don't last long enough to ever get resoled. I've just received orthotics for the first time and I'm in the market for some shoes in which to put them. It seems like a good time to start buying shoes that last 20 years instead of two. As for style, I tend towards overly conservative or somewhat outlandish, but I'm looking for conservative in this case.

That being said, besides fit what does one look for in a new pair of shoes? Is knowing the details of lasts and featherlines important or does one just look for a good brand and see what's comfortable and stylish within it?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[dpm802]

You already know that shoes have to fit properly. Here's how to make sure that they do.

Buy shoes in the evening. You want your feet to be stretched out to their maximum, and a full day of work will do that. Put on a fresh, clean pair of socks of appropriate weight before you start trying on shoes, and if the store offers those little disposable footies, use them over your socks, too.

Don't go in the store and tell the clerk you want a 10-D ... have him measure you. And don't take the machine reading too literally. When the clerk brings out one size, also try on a half-size smaller and a half-size larger.

Be aware that different countries measure their shoes on different scales. If you're buying shoes that were imported, be sure you know how to covert the sizes.

If you're planning to wear insoles or orthotics, be sure to allow room for those when you try on the shoes.

 

[RF1963]

Don't go in the store and tell the clerk you want a 10-D ... have him measure you. And don't take the machine reading too literally. When the clerk brings out one size, also try on a half-size smaller and a half-size larger.


If you're planning to wear insoles or orthotics, be sure to allow room for those when you try on the shoes.

Also tell the clerk what you're looking for and be open to his advice. I now own a great pair of Loake loafers which will last for ever. I never even considered the style and would not have picked them to try on but the clerk said "Try these" and when I expressed my doubts (as a child I was told I could never wear slip ons due to the shape of my foot and others of this style have never fitted or been comfortable) he said "Trust me". He then explained that this particular make uses leather where others use a strip of elastic. They are a great fit, very comfortable but I would never have tried them of my own volition.

If you need insoles/orthotics perhaps you could take them to try in your new shoes?

 

[TheSentinel]

Thanks for the advice. I could use still use more information about what to look for in quality shoes themselves.

As for the actual shopping part, I went into a Front Runners store last weekend for some athletic shoes as my physio recommended. They never asked what size I was or what I was looking for. Instead they measured me up, had me walk around a bit in stocking feet, had me stand on each foot, then just brought out what suited my feet. It was a very nice experience and the shoes feel great.

As for the orthotics, fitting them into a pair of shoes is one of the reasons I need a new pair right now. I'll definitely be bringing them with me.

 

[Doc4]

Thanks for the advice. I could use still use more information about what to look for in quality shoes themselves.

Quality of construction: you want to look for well-made shoes. Goodyear welting (a method of sewing the sole to the upper part of the shoe) is a must; not just that, look for the quality of the welting ... the number of stiches per inch is a dead giveaway ... the more the better. (Some really high-end shoes will be goodyear welted, and have the channels on the bottom of the shoes sealed up again so dirt can't get at the threads ... even better!)

Quality of leather: not all leather is created equal! Look for leather that feels substantial yet supple. You want something that will move and bend with your feet walking, without buckling or getting excessive creases (or worse!). If the leather feels hard, stiff and plasticky, move on. You want to avoid "corrected grain" leather, which will often display those undesirable qualities, and look very homogeneous, plasticky and often very shiny on a shoe. (Corrected grain essentially has been "fixed" by machine methods to have a consistent appearance, so you lose the top grain that can develop a patina, and the leather is more prone to disfiguring in wear.)

Quality of fit/appearance: you want shoes that fit right. (Duh!) Keep trying different shoes until you get one that fits you well: snug but not tight in the toes, wide or narrow enough for your foot, and not too roomy in the heel. But beyond that, get a shoe that looks good. Ever notice how the expensive cars tend to look better than the cheap ones? Ditto for shoes.

You get what you pay for, more or less: good shoes come from places with a long history of high-quality shoe manufacture, because that's where the skilled artisans congregate. Good shoes cannot be made quickly and cheaply in automated factories, but slowly and with skill in smaller factories or artian shops. Good shoes come from England (Northampton) and Italy. There are some other places too, in Europe and North America, that turn out some decent and great shoes. Unless you are paying a premium to wear a 'cool' designer brand, You get what you pay for. (Mind you, after a while, you run into the law of diminishing returns. The difference that $300 makes between $50 shoes and $350 shoes is phenominal. The difference between $350 shoes and $650 shoes, while noticeable, is much less. Not many people have the disposable income and highly refned shoe-sense to bother with the difference between $650 shoes and $950 shoes.

 

[Rudy Vey]

It seems there are a lot of threads on caring for shoes or ones with a very specific focus, but not a whole lot on the basics of what to look for in shoes. Is it really as simple as get some Allen Edmonds or Aldens?

As for my particular situation, I generally buy Rockports as they're quite comfortable and usually last until there's no sole left, but they don't last long enough to ever get resoled. I've just received orthotics for the first time and I'm in the market for some shoes in which to put them. It seems like a good time to start buying shoes that last 20 years instead of two. As for style, I tend towards overly conservative or somewhat outlandish, but I'm looking for conservative in this case.

That being said, besides fit what does one look for in a new pair of shoes? Is knowing the details of lasts and featherlines important or does one just look for a good brand and see what's comfortable and stylish within it?

Any advice is appreciated.

Some of my AE Dress Casual shoes have an insole that can be removed and then orthodics will fit in very well. And they last long and can be totally re-crafted. Some of mine are 15 years old.

 

[ImaWestie]

Seriously: if you want shoes that go with your orthodics for work,
get the pair of shoes you've been wearing to work without orthodics, and your orthodics, then find a local shoe-maker.
They will come up with a train-smash that works.
Yes, they still exist. Yes, you will end up with a very expensive pair of shoes. BUT: They will be designed to be resoled. The shoe-maker will be able to maintain them for you.

My mother wore calipers for a long time. You cannot beat hand-made-for-you shoes.

 

[dpm802]

Seriously: if you want shoes that go with your orthodics for work,
get the pair of shoes you've been wearing to work without orthodics, and your orthodics, then find a local shoe-maker.
They will come up with a train-smash that works.
Yes, they still exist. Yes, you will end up with a very expensive pair of shoes. BUT: They will be designed to be resoled. The shoe-maker will be able to maintain them for you.

My mother wore calipers for a long time. You cannot beat hand-made-for-you shoes.

+1

My father (Alevah Shalom) had two pair of custom-made Murray Space Shoes ... I went with him for the first fitting in NYC, they made him stand in some fiberform molds to shape his feet, then about a month later, the shoes arrived by mail.

He paid close to $300 cash for those shoes in 1969 ... today, they are likely closer to $1K ... but he got his money's worth out of them. He wore them everywhere, as funny as they looked, but his feet always felt good.

About once a year, he'd send them back for re-soling ... and he bought a second pair after several years.

When he passed away, he was buried wearing Murray Space Shoes.

I've always wanted to have a pair myself, but the cost has been prohibitive. I make do with expensive, up-scale factory made shoes, spend more for insoles and orthotics, but as ImaWestie pointed out, there is nothing that beats hand-made-for-you shoes.

 

[TheSentinel]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I managed to track down some Allen Edmond Ashtons that have a removable insole. These seem to be the only dressy shoes in the city that fit the orthotics.

 

[vintage69]

In considering the purchase of shoes, there 3 major measurements you must consider. The length of the foot, the width of the foot, and the last which is the shape of the foot. That explains the reason why you buy a shoe of a certain length and width, it is very comfortable. You later buy another pair of shoes and you are wearing Midevil torture boots although both are the same size.
A good shoe salesperson should be able to help you.

 

[ImaWestie]

Boot-makers like R.M.Williams hand-make - sized for individuals - boots (including lace-up boots) for people who they can't fit "off the shelf". They are most known for a "chelsea" style elastic-sided boot, but also lace-up and "cowboy" style mid-calf pull-on boots.

The sell online through bootsonline.com.au and nungar.com.au, and most likely, other websites. They have a variety of insoles.

They cost minimum of $250 Australian, people who love them & live in them may have a rotation of 2-5 pairs of identical boots, which means that when a pair needs resoling there is minimum disruption.

Not saying it would sort out your issue with orthodics. But maybe it would?

In Australia they are widely worn (in an appropriate colour & style) with a suit by a wide range of professionals including finance, legal & politicians.

 

[soloflex]

Allen Edmonds here
Have 4 pair and rotate them
shine after every use and keep trees in them

 

[troy1979]

Allen Edmonds best shoes i have ever owned. have 6 pair up to 15 years old. send them back they will rebuild them from the soles up.