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Recommended course of action: Frowning Eyre

As the title suggests, I'm seeking advice on how to hone this blade. The good news is that it reached this state with a couple quick rubs of Flitz. I may not even unpin it.

What would you recommend I do about the frown under the "HOLLOW GROUND" ? I'm thinking cut down the heel and hone away, but I ain't very smart about such things! You folks are, so I'm all ears...


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I would take material off on the front end - edge only at about a 45 degree on W/D paper (600)
Nearly remove it all then begin setting a new bevel, be sure to see if you are still getting good contact all the way along as the bevel progresses.
You may need to remove some steel from the spine on the front end as well to match the heavier wear at the middle/back.
If the heel is in the way then remove a little if needed.
I just don't understand the hone away mentality - you will still be removing steel where you don't want to.
Selectively remove where you want to, then address the issue. Its much easier to correct it as it appears when bevel setting rather then let it get out of hand then correcting.

My 2 cents:)
 
Well, your 2 cents is worth a fortune to me! Thank you very much for the reply.

I will lay the blade at a 45, so I'm removing some steel other than just on the bevel, hitting basically below SHEFFIELD. Then set a bevel and reassess.
 
That's my typical routine unless there is something glaringly wrong with the blade.
You can see the wear on the spine is not even and its transferred to the edge.
You can use pressure on the front and hone away but you will still be wasting steel where you don't want to loose any.
Once its straight begin setting the bevel - not many strokes are needed to see if the bevel will come in correctly.
If it is heel heavy (the bevel) while starting to reset lay some pressure on the toe end to remove steel from the spine (almost all the pressure on the spine till visually the spine wear is consistent) keep setting the bevel keeping an eye on where it is developing, remove spine material when necessary and keep at it.
So long as you end up with some contact all the way along when the edge is straight again you are good to go.
You do not want to over correct so take some time as this will only have to done once.
Good luck.
 
I would cut the stabilizer back a bit as well while following the plan that you have laid out.

Bluesman, do you mean shorten the stabilizer, like with a breadknife technique, or thin it at the bevel area so it's the same thickness as the blade? Thanks!
 
To me it looks like it was just honed without putting the whole blade on the hone. It was honed with the stabilizer off the hone which I say is completley wrong.
This compounded by the typical tendancy for the part of the razor closest to you getting the majority of the pressure you get said result.
Keep the whole razor on the hone - when the stabilizer becomes an issue, cut it back.
Keep your elbow up when honing.
No problems:)
 
I would check the bevel angle at the toe and the heel.
I would consider if I want to hone this with or without tape later on.
I would grind out the heel and stabilizer to allow the curve in the blade up by the toe to continue naturally toward the heel.
I would gauge how I hone the new profile into the new edge based on the 2nd step above. In other words, if the existing angle at the toe is 14 deg, I'd want to bring it up over 16 and I'd hone with tape on the spine and I'd work the toe on the stone vigorously. I might make a witness mark on the blades face where I want the edge to sit at when I'm done - I'd have to consider the bevel width and err on the side of caution.
 
Gentleman, looks like you nailed the situation from that single photograph! I took the measurements that Keith suggested and used an online calculator to get the angles.

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Looks like a combination of all your suggestions is in order! Since the frown section (lowest) angle is still within spec, I will plan on honing without tape. Grind back the stabilizer and remove some of the width of both the blade proper (18.5 mm. measurement) and spine at the toe. Agreed?
 
Of course curiosity got the better of me and I couldn't wait to finish the Frederick Reynolds I am working on. This is after corrective work and about a quarter of a bevel setting. There's a little point at the right side of the previous frown, but I'm expecting that will hone out in the bevel set. Thank you again for all your assistance!

Jon

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