New Feather All Stainless Safety Razor

[Seraphim]

the stand looked kind of cute.

i just got my razor from classicshaving.com and didnt find the stand in. the box

just the razor and 5 feather blades.

unsure why would the US version come without the stand even after paying $159.
the razor looks beautiful, but little lighter in weight as compared to my merkur 38c barber pole.

merkur barber pole is the only i own so using that as a mode for comparison.

would put the feather to test today and post my experience shortly...

the razor stand..... will be missed

The reason is that you didn't buy the Japanese version for $300.....

 

[siouxsie]

what he said ^

Many questions can be answered by reading through the thread.

 

[SirWhiskers]

As someone else put it: the razor is $40, the box $35, the blades $75 and the stand $150. So the razor itself is cheap, it's the accessories that are expensive!

 

[Tha Baron]

In defense of plated brass, the nickel plating on Gillette razors is very thin as these weren't expensive items.
Actually it probably cost more to produce a plated brass razor then one made from stainless steel
brass and stainless steel bar stock cost about the same price.
I spend more money on plating cost then I do on the brass bar stock.
Modern CNC turning station will produce parts just as fast, whether they are brass or stainless.
Smith&Wesson pioneered the use of stainless steel in their handguns in the 70s.
There are a lot more small parts in a firearm then there are in a 3 piece razor.
We aren't talking about making part for the Space Shuttle here.

So Bob... are you able to make replica handles from stainless steel for this razor? That might, say, fit the head of a Feather portable?!

 

[cooncatbob]

So Bob... are you able to make replica handles from stainless steel for this razor? That might, say, fit the head of a Feather portable?!

No!
I said modern technology.
My 1953 South Bend 9A is probably closer to 20s or 30s technology.
My lathes head stock use plain "cast iron" bearings, this is metal on metal separated by a thin film of oil.
Knurling put a lot of stress on the head stock bearing and the cross feed screw.
Stainless steel being harder then brass is much harder to knurl then brass especially on a small lathe like mine.
Brass is the metal against which all other are measured as far as machine-ability is concern.
With modern CNC machines this isn't much of a factor but for me and my old lathe it is.
On a side note, the nickel plating probably has a comparable surface hardness to stainless steel.

 

[Loner16]

No!
I said modern technology.
My 1953 South Bend 9A is probably closer to 20s or 30s technology.
My lathes head stock use plain "cast iron" bearings, this is metal on metal separated by a thin film of oil.
Knurling put a lot of stress on the head stock bearing and the cross feed screw.
Stainless steel being harder then brass is much harder to knurl then brass especially on a small lathe like mine.
Brass is the metal against which all other are measured as far as machine-ability is concern.
With modern CNC machines this isn't much of a factor but for me and my old lathe it is.
On a side note, the nickel plating probably has a comparable surface hardness to stainless steel.

Today the make knurling tools where the wheels oppose, absorbing all of the forces into the tool itself..
I would never have done any knurling on a decent lathe...

 

[cooncatbob]

Today the make knurling tools where the wheels oppose, absorbing all of the forces into the tool itself..
I would never have done any knurling on a decent lathe...

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools, but it leaves a ring shadow on the part where I stop.
It also doesn't lend itself to my production technique.
It barely fits my lathe and I have to set my compound at 90 degrees and crank it all the way back to clear the part.
It also doesn't work very well with my 2 stage spiral knurling.
I using bump knurling tools that fit my QCTP, I do the small right handed knurling 1st then go over it with the medium left handed knurling.
This method is easy on my lathe as I don't have to go as deep as if I was doing true diamond knurling and I also don't have to keep going over the part.
1 or 2 passes gives me a nice pattern and the it's also become my signature look.

 

[Kevan]

Well, mine came today. That was FAST -- just 2 days after I ordered it from the opposite coast!

First impressions: Quality is second to none. From the finish to the little touches, this is a perfect 10. It's even got little ridges to make sure the blade is aligned properly and doesn't move. In fact, the head is machined in such a way that the two pieces fit together naturally; no Parker wobbling here. Blade exposure on each side is even each time. The matte "pearskin" finish is impeccable too. I've never seen a Merkur Futur/Vision in person but the Feather really does look impressive with a matte finish. And the grip is a deep diamond knurling pattern. Perfect. The design is unique enough to make it seem "modern" at the same time as classic.

It's heavier than my HD Slant and feels slightly less heavy than my Bull Mastiff XL. Very solid/portly feeling. At 3.5 inches long, it's the longest razor I have except for the Merkur Long Classic. But it's still a comfortable length.

First shave tonight, loaded with a Feather. Then I'll test it with a Permasharp 7 O'Clock and an Iridium before I render any judgment.

 

[siouxsie]

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools, but it leaves a ring shadow on the part where I stop.
It also doesn't lend itself to my production technique.
It barely fits my lathe and I have to set my compound at 90 degrees and crank it all the way back to clear the part.
It also doesn't work very well with my 2 stage spiral knurling.
I using bump knurling tools that fit my QCTP, I do the small right handed knurling 1st then go over it with the medium left handed knurling.
This method is easy on my lathe as I don't have to go as deep as if I was doing true diamond knurling and I also don't have to keep going over the part.
1 or 2 passes gives me a nice pattern and the it's also become my signature look.

Jeez Bob, you're killing me! That is gorgeous. If I were more into the open combs, I would be so jonesing for that.

 

[cooncatbob]

Jeez Bob, you're killing me! That is gorgeous. If I were more into the open combs, I would be so jonesing for that.

Looks great with a replated Tech head too.

 

[Kevan]

Well, I couldn't wait. First shave with this baby is done. I'm impressed. I put it through a trial by fire and tested it against three days' growth. It passed the test.

First, let me agree with the others who have stated this: This is an incredibly smooth-cutting razor. Smooth as a baby's butt. I was quite annoyed after the first two strokes, because I had to adjust my angle, and then I thought "Dammit, this thing needs to be angled like a Tech and it's mild enough for a 15-year old's peach fuzz." Ooooooooh, so deceptive. Once I found the sweet spot, took four or five strokes, and rinsed off the lather, the hairs were plentiful and long, similar to what I rinse off from my Slant. Now, it might be the Feather blade that's contributing to that, or the weight of the handle -- I don't know. It's been several months since I used a Feather, and I've never used a Feather in a Tech (which is generally tiny with little heft). But my point is, it was slicing efficiently. More efficiently than I anticipated after having to angle it again.

Then I got a weeper on my jawline. Another reminder that I'm not used to Feathers. The razor is mild, but it can taste blood if you're not careful, even though its head is built for guarding against over-aggressiveness. I ended up with 4 weepers on my jawline and neck, but it's probably a combination of my technique and not respecting the blade.

After two passes (WTG, ATG) and a few touch ups, most of my face was BBS, even the jawline. There were some rough spots on my neck and I was able to get them well enough, but not as easily as I can with a Slant. But that doesn't mean this thing needs as much work as a Tech. It doesn't. Two passes and two touch-ups and I'm sitting here happily faceturbating as I type this.

So overall impression after shave #1? This razor is well-designed and impressive. Everything fits together perfectly and it feels solid and heavy. The fit and finish is perfect and the profile is slim -- not even the fins on the sides of the blade show through. It cuts silently, efficiently, and oh-so-smoothly, giving me little trouble as I sliced off 3 days' worth of beard, though with an angle that I REALLY have to get used to, after having used the Slant and the Muhle/EJ head for so long.

But.....this shave was with a Feather blade. The real test is when I use this with my regular blades, the 7 o'Clock Permasharp and the Iridium. They're far more forgiving on my face than Feather blades, even though this tames a Feather blade as well as an EJ head does. I'm really curious, however, if using a slightly less-sharp blade makes this mild razor into a "stainless steel Tech." I should know in a week's time.

Is it worth $150? Probably not, but it's worth a premium price. Gentlemen who shave every day or even every other day (instead of every two days like me) might achieve BBS with 2 passes and no touch ups -- it's more than a Tech clone. Can you do just as well with a nickel-plated EJ razor or an old Gillette? Sure (though it gave me a better shave than my Slim set on 3 or 4; then again, Gillettes don't really work for me to begin with). But considering the price for straights and high-end vintage Gillettes, it's not THAT outlandish.

I just wish the nice balsa wood box had the Feather logo burned into it or something. That would be perfect.

 

[SirWhiskers]

Kevan - could you please clarify the angle adjustment? Thanks.

What I noticed with the Feather Portable head is that the blade is not curved as much as in other razors (EJ DE89L, Muhle R41, etc.) so the angle at which the blade hits my face is what might make the portable head feel rough. I can't seem to adjust the angle too much or the blade will quickly lose touch with my face because of the top plate. I hope that's not the case with the new Feather razor and based on the comments that it is a smooth yet efficient shaver I don't suspect it is. After all the Feather Portable is a very cheap razor and I wouldn't be surprised if there were significant variations from head to head.

 

[Kevan]

Um, well it could just be me, but I'm used to using a more shallow angle with all my razors (I usually use a Slant, so that might be why). The angle of the Feather Stainless is more akin to a Tech (i.e., closer to 30 degrees).

 

[VR6ofpain]

Looks great with a replated Tech head too.

Bob is telling the truth.

 

[Kevan]

I give my highest endorsement to Bob's stuff as well. He made a custom Bull Mastiff XL handle for me and it's wonderful. You can't go wrong with a razor or handle from him.

 

[Aneurysm]

I've got ready stock for this wildly talked about razor.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=142815

Sorry for the shameless sales pitch

 

[e d o]

Is the blade gap/angle any different than the portable? I saw the post comparing the Tech but didn't see anything on the portable.

 

[SirWhiskers]

Is the blade gap/angle any different than the portable? I saw the post comparing the Tech but didn't see anything on the portable.

Now that's a question I'd like to see answered too.

I have a portable and find it rough because the blade seems to be more parallel to the bar guard than say my EJ DE89L which curves the blade a lot more, pointing it towards the bar guard, hence a different angle at which the whiskers are hit. Yes, you can adjust the angle on the portable by lifting the handle higher, but not too much before the blade loses contact with the skin.

 

[Arkansas]

I believe it was Billy that measured the gap as the same for both the portable and the new all stainless.

 

[SirWhiskers]

I believe it was Billy that measured the gap as the same for both the portable and the new all stainless.

Yes, but the wiki lists different values. So some numbers are off somewhere or the portable heads vary wildly, which would not surprise me for such a cheap razor.

http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/index.php/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Aggressiveness

I am also convinced that the blade gap is only 1 factor, how the blade sits in the razor, flat or curved is also a big contributing factor to smoothness, slicing action vs scraping the whiskers.