Very nice, congrats!
My first JNat
- Thread starter Thomas Martin
- Start date
Very cool, first Jnat honing success! Awesome!
That explains his troubles getting those pesky 1k scratches to go away in 3 strokes or less...
A few more of these and I'll take over Doc's title of honemeister!
By the way, congrats Thomas. Now you're in the rabbit hole!
Not me, I just rub the steel on the rocks, some even call me a caveman.A few more of these and I'll take over Doc's title of honemeister!
By the way, congrats Thomas. Now you're in the rabbit hole!
You are right, I've never once seen you blowing your own trumpet. That's probably why a lot of people have started up a brass band in your name!
I'm just envious.- Thread starter
- #27
Stupid question. Do I need a matching tomo for every Honzan or are they interchangeable. Meaning: Can I use the Tomo that came with my Osuku also on the so called Nakayama that I got from the Greek Guy or do I need a Special Nakayama Tomonagura?
They CAN be interchangable but that requires testing. So, YES you CAN but will it be the best match? That's debatable.
Thomas
Congratulations on your successful honing with your first Jnat and on your first try too. Well done!
Any tomo will add grit to the mix of the slurry, the idea is to match up a tomo that will both contribute its grit while encouraging the base stone to provide some of its own. Usually there is no harm is moving a tomonagura from one to another stone for testing.
Good Luck, Alex
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks, Alex, I appreciate your insight. In your experiene how much of the abrasive power is due to the Tomo/Nagura and how much would the Honzan contribute. With the nagura, given you have a hard Honzan, most of the abrasion would be due to the slurry stones, am I right. With the Tomo, both would contribute, I guess. The respective part would be due to the hardness of each, Tomo and Honzan, right?
Another question: I have all my three honings so far finished on degraded Tomo slurry, such as described by Jim at easternsmooth.com. No finishing on water then?
And finally: I have read that you can also make slurry using a diamond plate. I'm not comfortable with the idea and the risk of scratching these fine hones. My DMT produced some visible scratches on my Zulu and I would not want that on the JNats. What's your opinion on this.
Great hones and results sound awesome!
I like to finish on water.. Whatever works.
I like to finish on water.. Whatever works.
You might like the water only edges on your stone. I only have one out of 7 stones that I like to use on water only and it slightly autoslurries so I believe that's why; due to the softer nature of the stone.
If you choose to raise a slurry using a diamone hone, I wouldn't go below 600 grit. I have had great results from a credit card sized DMT that cost around $12 if I recall. I typically finish my jnats to either 600 or 1200 grit anyways. I have yet to notice any negative issues caused by using the 600 grit for raising a slurry for finishing purposes. I'd definitely never use anything lower than 600 for the purposes of raising slurry.
If you choose to raise a slurry using a diamone hone, I wouldn't go below 600 grit. I have had great results from a credit card sized DMT that cost around $12 if I recall. I typically finish my jnats to either 600 or 1200 grit anyways. I have yet to notice any negative issues caused by using the 600 grit for raising a slurry for finishing purposes. I'd definitely never use anything lower than 600 for the purposes of raising slurry.
- Thread starter
- #33
And here's the stone I got from the Greek seller. I used it yesterday to touch up a Filly with a pretty good result. Used the Tomo above. The stone is very hard. It doesn't suck up water (look at the drop of water I put on the stone. Pic was taken after >3 minutes after putting it on the stone and it's still there as I finish this post edit included >15'). It also took some effort to raise a slurry with the Tomo. Honing was nice. The stone was lapped OK. It has a crack (see pic) that does not seem to affect the honing. I may push that Filly some more o the Tomo slurry to get an even better edge or do a full Nagura progression. I agree that the stamp looks phony but I think I got a decent stone for the money. What about the nature of the stone? The seller labelled it as Nakayama. I don't know if this is true. Anyone?
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Looks like a nice sized slab. I'd say you probably did alright with it depends get on how you succeed with the stone.
l have no input one way or another about the stone's origin.
But - while I strongly suspect that stone is a counterfeit, there's always a chance it's authentic.
It's an interesting stone that seems to have been used a lot. So, chances are - it's a good stone.
Otherwiese, it probably would not have been used so frequently.
At the end of the day, stamps bring bragging rights, and not much else. I have had, and still do, own plenty of stones that came without any stamps and many of them have outperformed some of the Marukas and Maruichis I've compared them too.
If your stone feels good under the blade, and you get good/great results - that's all that matters.
The crack may be innocuous - but I would probably try to stabilize it, just for the peace of mind.
I'd let is dry completely - and then inject a bit of CA glue into it.
But - while I strongly suspect that stone is a counterfeit, there's always a chance it's authentic.
It's an interesting stone that seems to have been used a lot. So, chances are - it's a good stone.
Otherwiese, it probably would not have been used so frequently.
At the end of the day, stamps bring bragging rights, and not much else. I have had, and still do, own plenty of stones that came without any stamps and many of them have outperformed some of the Marukas and Maruichis I've compared them too.
If your stone feels good under the blade, and you get good/great results - that's all that matters.
The crack may be innocuous - but I would probably try to stabilize it, just for the peace of mind.
I'd let is dry completely - and then inject a bit of CA glue into it.
