lame questions from brushmaker wannabe

[szekelya]

Almost forgot a boundary layer between linseed oil and PUR varnish. The shop assistant where they order polyurethane for me, told me linseed is a never drying oil, he suggested to forget it. In this topic I got advise to separate it with shellac. Probably I will do the later as I like how the oiled surface looks, enhancing woodgrain and giving a nice colour. Hope applying shellac won't be complicated, and it will cover as necessary. Picking up PUR tomorrow, and maybe something to tint the top of the barberstyle handles black. I guess that has to be the first layer, right?

 

[bakerbarber]

Those shapes are special. Looks great so far!

 

[Lightcs1776]

Linseed oil (BLO) will dry, although it may take several days. Mineral oil is a type that would create a problem. Once the Linseed oil is dry, you can use oil-based polyurethane on top of it. If using water-based poly, you will want to use dewaxed shellac first, then the poly. Check out some woodworking forums to see what finishes work well together.

Shellac over Linseed Oil | Fine Woodworking Knots

Polyurethane over Linseed oil??? | Fine Woodworking Knots

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[strop]

The shop assistant is correct if he is talking about RAW linseed oil. It will virtually never fully cure. What we commonly refer to as linseed oil is BOILED linseed oil, or BLO. Not actually boiled, it has additives to it that allow it to cure and dry. The longer you give it, several days to a couple of weeks is ideal, before the shellac, the better. I never have that much patience and usually give it 24 to 48 hours on furniture type projects.

 

[szekelya]

The shop assistant is correct if he is talking about RAW linseed oil. It will virtually never fully cure. What we commonly refer to as linseed oil is BOILED linseed oil, or BLO. Not actually boiled, it has additives to it that allow it to cure and dry. The longer you give it, several days to a couple of weeks is ideal, before the shellac, the better. I never have that much patience and usually give it 24 to 48 hours on furniture type projects.

Probably that's what I have, I mean raw linseed oil. Just been in the shop and bought pur varnish and some tinting stuff that I don't know how is called in English. It's basically a granulated powder for lacqer solution. I'll do some tests on scrap blocks with that and the pur varnish.

I had the test oiled blocks with me, which I made 48+ hours ago, and the guy pushed away most of it from the surface of the block with his thumb.

I need a lot more patience. Now.

 

[strop]

If you are going to tint the varnish, you probably don't need the boiled linseed oil. The varnish itself will likely give the wood nearly the same color and bring out the grain. You'll be covering that with any tinted/colored varnish.

 

[TobyC]

You fellas are making this complicated!

Get spar varnish (marine varnish) thin the first coat with paint thinner, next day put on a second coat with no thinner.

.

 

[Graydog]

@szekelya In the pictures I noticed all the handles are drilled ,How did you determine what size hole to drill ?

 

[szekelya]

@szekelya In the pictures I noticed all the handles are drilled ,How did you determine what size hole to drill ?

Oooh, thanks, I am happy for this doublecheck, please correct me if I'm wrong, as I haven't ordered the knots yet, so it's about time to think before spending.

I want to put the 24 mm maggard synthetic knots in the barberstyle handles, so they have 25 mm holes.

The beehive handles were meant to be big, but turned out huge. Beyond usability I'm afraid. I have 4 of them, but will only make two. They were made to take 28 mm knots, as the turner had 29,5 mm drill. I eant to make at least one with TGN finest badger in that size. It will have to go to someone with really big hands. And one with a black synthetic for me.

The cylindric is small, it will take a 20 mm maggard synth into its 21 mm hole, and that small cylinder will become a small travel razor with TGN's razor kit, in fact a proof of concept before making normal size well designed ones. I read it needs a 7 mm hole for the kit.

And I might be wrong, then I just payed the price of learning, which I am actually prepared for. The cost of the wood and the turning of 11 usable items were below $40 and I still got half of the wood I bought.

Did I miscalculate things?

 

[szekelya]

Horse Vie-Long on the left and 30 mm Silvertip Golddachs on the right for scale.

Tried the tinted thinned varnish on one of the oversized walnut beehive handles. The color is called "swedish red", I also bought "ebony".
Color is OK, although purists may advise not to change the original nature of walnut this much. Maybe when I have more color optins I'll go for something more brownish less saturated color choice.
Fibers came out after 12 hours, so tonight some sanding will come, and decide whether to apply a second similar coat or go for the first unthinned PUR layer, and start working on some other handles.

 

[TobyC]

All sounds right to me, go for it!

 

[Big Jim]

You are learning quickly. By now you have figured out that there is no one way to do it and you really need to learn your own methods.

The one thing I try to do is have a knot in hand before drilling. I have a beautiful resin turning blank that I'm anxious to try, but I'm waiting for the knot before chucking it up to the lathe.

The dimensions you drilled will probably work, but you have not allowed for the fact that most knots are slightly smaller in diameter than advertised.

Your handles are beautiful.

 

[CigarSmoka]

Looking very nice. Dyes and other things can raise the grain on wood. A workaround is to stick with oils or if you want color, aniline dyes dissolved in denatured alcohol.

 

[szekelya]

Here we are now.
Beehive got his first layer of unthinned PUR varnish. Mahogany barber style on the left is tinted. (Is thinned varnish with coloring ganulate is a dye or a stain?) Just decided that the bottom of the walnut handle will not be colored, it will get some layers of thinned varnish to close the pores and pull out and sand the fibres, then unthinned varnish finish.

I decided not to order knots until I beleive I can make usable handles. If all turns out to be fine, I'll change the order. Didn't think nominal sizes can differ from actual dimensions.

 

[Lightcs1776]

Love the beehive.

 

[szekelya]

Some progress grom left to right.
The bottom of the walnut barberstyle got its first layer.
The painting of the mahogany barberstyle is done.
Another mahogany will keep its original color.
A second black beehive is now in the works.
The first beehive got its 2nd varnish coating.
I used the poor man's lathe, turned them for coating using a screwdriver-drill, hence the paper plugs.

 

[szekelya]

It is getting really exciting.
Just ordered matte PUR varnish as I think that will look better on these. I might have gone with the silk version, I'll see after 1-2 coats on the walnut handles.

 

[TobyC]

It is getting really exciting.
Just ordered matte PUR varnish as I think that will look better on these. I might have gone with the silk version, I'll see after 1-2 coats on the walnut handles.

View attachment 804096 View attachment 804097

Yes! Those are looking really nice!

 

[Quijote]

Those look great

 

[Smattayu]

They all look great!