That is a very nice group of handles! Your friend did great job turning them and you're doing them justice with the finishing. For a first set these are impressive.
lame questions from brushmaker wannabe
- Thread starter szekelya
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #42
I ordered the knots from maggard, Saturday afternoon (Central European Time). I got an e-mail an hour later that the package is shipped. Awesome!
First layer of varnish is applied on this black beehive, I don't know how it's called, it's somewhere between glossy and matte, we call it silk-light. Sorry for the blurry image, apparently this pic was taken by a door-entryphone.
And this will be my favorite, still quite some sanding and more painting is ahead:
First layer of varnish is applied on this black beehive, I don't know how it's called, it's somewhere between glossy and matte, we call it silk-light. Sorry for the blurry image, apparently this pic was taken by a door-entryphone.
And this will be my favorite, still quite some sanding and more painting is ahead:
- Thread starter
- #43
I have ordered knots from Maggard Razors. Saturday afternoon. The postman rang Thursday in the morning and delivered the package (~7500 kilometers). I'm impressed.
I think I will open a new thread for the show-off. The first few brushes will be ready hopefully tonight, and I'd be proud to showcase them here in a topic dedicated to my very first batch.
I think I will open a new thread for the show-off. The first few brushes will be ready hopefully tonight, and I'd be proud to showcase them here in a topic dedicated to my very first batch.
- Thread starter
- #45
Aaaah. I'm just not there yet. More questions about fixing the knots. I didn't have time last night, so now I'd better ask away. So the knot sizes are generally OK. That's the first time I have a new knot in my hand. I recognized that they barely fall into the hole, as a bit above their bottom, they have a considerable "shoulder" pretty much wider than the bottom. Although with a little pressure, I could press them deeper inside.
Finally some images of some of the dry-fitted knots. Forgive my raving and drooling about this, but basically this is the first time in my life when the result of my work is not on a computer screen, but I can hold them in my hand, and it feels terrific.
- So my first question is if it is OK to push the knots deeper than the depth they'd fall into the hole without pushing? Or maybe I shouldn't introduce a constant tension in the inner side of the hole?
- The other question is whether I need to fill the entire hole below the knot with epoxy. I will use coins to build the foundation below the knot, as I see most people do so, but I feel that the hole around the coins should be filled with the epoxy, so water can't go and stay below the knot. Could you confirm this?
Finally some images of some of the dry-fitted knots. Forgive my raving and drooling about this, but basically this is the first time in my life when the result of my work is not on a computer screen, but I can hold them in my hand, and it feels terrific.
It depends on what loft you want. If you prefer it deeper in the hole then press it in and hold it there for a few minutes until the epoxy will keep it there. 5 min epoxy will keep your time to a minimum. If you like the loft higher then epoxy plastic washers, coins, or whatever works into the bottom of the hole first. This is a problem anytime you don't have the knots first as many have a glue bump that can be several millimeters wider than the plug. Whatever you do, don't leave a void under the plug of the brush, water can get in and eventually cause problems, the least of which is hearing it slosh around everytime you use the it. You also won't get the knot set properly and it will eventually pull out. You could even cause the wood to rot over time, ruining the handle.
Good luck, the handles look great. I especially like the third one (two tone barber style), it's a classic design and looks as good as any you could buy.
Good luck, the handles look great. I especially like the third one (two tone barber style), it's a classic design and looks as good as any you could buy.
- Thread starter
- #47
Hi gents, I'm back with questions.
My first batch turned out to be fine, but pretty labour-intensive. That is not a problem, as I found a nice hobby while at it, although I wonder what would be your advise if I ditched the PUR-varnish, and wanted to create some CA-superglue finished handles.
What I did with my previous set of handles were using 3 layers tinted and water-thinned PUR-varnish, sanding after the first and second layer, there was no need after that. As I understood, these layers also helped closing the pores of the wood. Then came two more layers of either shiny or matte uncolored PUR-varnish, and I was ready for fixing the knots.
Now if I want to understand the relatively quicker way of applying CA superglue, in cases when I don't even need tinting, I wonder what to expect. Will CA layers also pull out fibers to be sanded? Will ~3 layers of CA close the pores to provode enough water resistance? What shall I be careful with? On one hand I'd like to know a quicker way of finishing handles, on the other hand I don't want to sacrifice quality and need these to last for ages.
Many thanks in advance for your advices!
Andras
My first batch turned out to be fine, but pretty labour-intensive. That is not a problem, as I found a nice hobby while at it, although I wonder what would be your advise if I ditched the PUR-varnish, and wanted to create some CA-superglue finished handles.
What I did with my previous set of handles were using 3 layers tinted and water-thinned PUR-varnish, sanding after the first and second layer, there was no need after that. As I understood, these layers also helped closing the pores of the wood. Then came two more layers of either shiny or matte uncolored PUR-varnish, and I was ready for fixing the knots.
Now if I want to understand the relatively quicker way of applying CA superglue, in cases when I don't even need tinting, I wonder what to expect. Will CA layers also pull out fibers to be sanded? Will ~3 layers of CA close the pores to provode enough water resistance? What shall I be careful with? On one hand I'd like to know a quicker way of finishing handles, on the other hand I don't want to sacrifice quality and need these to last for ages.
Many thanks in advance for your advices!
Andras
If you're looking for an easier finish, CA is not the one. It takes several coats, preferably thin CA only or thin CA followed by medium viscosity CA. Sanding through is almost impossible not to do until you get the hang of it which makes it even more labor intensive when you're learning how to do one. If you don't have a way of spinning the handle it becomes still more labor intensive. It needs to be sanded and polished through several grits using either micromesh or liquid abrasives just like an acrylic handle because in layman's terms, you're basically coating the wood with acrylic. It's a great finish (unbeatable IMO) but one that requires some practice to get good at.
- Thread starter
- #49
Oh, I get it.
I have seen this video about the Stick Fast CA, and similar ones and got carried away:
I think I have an idea how to spin the handles with a piece of wood that can be applied in my electric screwdriver. I could buy a small lathe to spin them, but I don't have a workshop, and it is a tad bit loud to use in my kitchen even if I just use it for spinning.
I'd really need to find out a quicker way to create the finish, as I imagined when I got home with 20-30 new, freshly turned handles, look at them and get depressed thinking about all the work ahead.
He does make it look easy, but keep in mind he's probably done hundreds of pens with a CA finish. I can guarantee you won't be able to start with 400 grit when you're first learning, and you'll need to sand to at least 600 and preferably 1000-1200 before using liquid abrasives if you're going for a glossy finish. You're also applying it to a larger handle with coves and beads and maybe other small details which makes a huge difference. I'm not downgrading the product, I use Stick Fast myself, but this video shows the perfect scenario for applying a CA finish: an experienced person applying it to the ideal blank, a short, straight pen barrel. Take it with a grain of salt, they're selling a product here, it's their job to make it look simpler and easier than it actually is. It will take some practice before it's as easy to do as this video shows. Again, I'm not slaming the product at all, it's good stuff, nor am I trying to discourage you. I'm just letting you know it's not as easy as it seems from this video. I've probably done 100 CA finishes, mostly on pens, a handful or two of brushes, and a few lather bowls, and I still have trouble with it from time to time. Also, using accelerator will eventually cause it to yellow over time. I've quit using accelerator for that reason. If you want it to maintain it's natural beauty, skip the accelerator and give each coat plenty of time to dry on its own, then let it cure at least 24 hours before sanding and polishing.
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks for the detailed answer CigarSmoka!
Do you have any other advise for a quicker and still durable and good quality water resistant finish?
Now with the 5 PUR-based layers I apply, waiting 24 hours between each, together with fixing the knot, it takes a week to finish a brush. Again, it's not a tragedy, but it would be nice to be more productive. (As it was shown on a pen, they didn't mention water resistance, but I think an acrylic coat should provide that as well.)
I will try Stick Fast as well, but then I guess it will be for learning purposes, not aiming to create perfect pieces in no time as a start.
As a side-topic, I am willing to be able to spin the handles while applying the coating. I mentioned this mini-lathe earlier: DC 24V 80W Mini Lathe Beads Machine Woodwork DIY Lathe Standard Set with Power | eBay
Anyone have a better idea for home use, than to use a pretty loud lathe just for coating purposes?
Do you have any other advise for a quicker and still durable and good quality water resistant finish?
Now with the 5 PUR-based layers I apply, waiting 24 hours between each, together with fixing the knot, it takes a week to finish a brush. Again, it's not a tragedy, but it would be nice to be more productive. (As it was shown on a pen, they didn't mention water resistance, but I think an acrylic coat should provide that as well.)
I will try Stick Fast as well, but then I guess it will be for learning purposes, not aiming to create perfect pieces in no time as a start.
As a side-topic, I am willing to be able to spin the handles while applying the coating. I mentioned this mini-lathe earlier: DC 24V 80W Mini Lathe Beads Machine Woodwork DIY Lathe Standard Set with Power | eBay
Anyone have a better idea for home use, than to use a pretty loud lathe just for coating purposes?
Similar threads
