I didn't notice burning through my mallards much faster than other soaps. I have one that is close to done and has about 35 shaves with probably half a dozen more to go, but I also tend to load very heavy and found that ive regularly used 5 grams of product which is pretty obscene.
Grooming Dept. Kairos vs. Kairos SE
- Thread starter Ramsay
- Start date
With nearly all my artisan soaps, I try to keep my brush loading and lathering procedure similar. Although Mohammad recommends against blooming his soaps, I do bloom them with 1 Tablespoon of hot water, but for no more than 10 seconds to loosen the top layer of the soap in the tub. Then I use a damp brush (all excess water shaken out), to load for no more than 10 seconds with light pressure. I will mix that soap, somewhere between 1.5 - 2 grams, with the bloom water in a lather bowl. With my better soaps, 30 seconds of swirling in the bowl is sufficient to provide a smooth lather ready to apply to the face. That procedure provides me with sufficient lather for 5-6 passes.
I realize that most people do not need that much lather, but that still gives me a minimum of 60 shaves from a tub. If you are using more than 2 grams per shave, you need to load less soap as you should not need it. Better artisan soaps are typically "low-structure" so you only need a thin layer of lather on your face to get the job done. If you look like a Gillette Foamy commercial after lathering, you are probably wasting soap.
There are various version of Kairos and Mallard. The newer versions are better than the older versions. Kairos SE 2022, Mallard 2022 and DonkeyBase are similar in performance. I also find Ariana and Evans K2e, Barrister and Mann Omnibus, and Ethos Grooming Essentials F Base to be similar in performance. In my evaluations, the enhanced Kairos SE 2023 is superior to any of the other bases. I suspect the performance of Mallard 2023 will be improved to a level similar to Kairos SE 2023, but we will have to wait until it is released lather this spring.
I realize that most people do not need that much lather, but that still gives me a minimum of 60 shaves from a tub. If you are using more than 2 grams per shave, you need to load less soap as you should not need it. Better artisan soaps are typically "low-structure" so you only need a thin layer of lather on your face to get the job done. If you look like a Gillette Foamy commercial after lathering, you are probably wasting soap.
There are various version of Kairos and Mallard. The newer versions are better than the older versions. Kairos SE 2022, Mallard 2022 and DonkeyBase are similar in performance. I also find Ariana and Evans K2e, Barrister and Mann Omnibus, and Ethos Grooming Essentials F Base to be similar in performance. In my evaluations, the enhanced Kairos SE 2023 is superior to any of the other bases. I suspect the performance of Mallard 2023 will be improved to a level similar to Kairos SE 2023, but we will have to wait until it is released lather this spring.
I have had trouble lathering Kairos as well as KSE 22 and 23. Similar to Hannah’s Dad, Kairos itself has not resulted in a thick or substantial lather. It is translucent and I see my skin through it.
KSE 22 and 23 had different challenges but low volume and structure were my results. Maybe my loading technique (spread in bowl) vs brush loading isn’t helping, but I tend to use a large amount of product and add water slowly so this shouldn’t be an issue.
I have hard water at my home as does all of Chester County, PA. I did not bloom the soap or try distilled water, but I will for completeness. I would not want to have to use distilled water since I do not need to with other bases but I will try it to eliminate the variable.
I do not have the same lather building challenges with GD Mallard 2022 base, which lather and build up well for me. I am very much looking forward to Mallard 2023’s release.
As far as other bases, I can’t put K2e or Omnibus in the same category as Ethos, for me Ethos is at a higher performance level and in another category level.
However, if I’m doing something different and that is why I’m having my challenges, I’m open to all suggestions on how to lather Kairos SE and standard Kairos. I’d like to really get similar results as to many of you.
KSE 22 and 23 had different challenges but low volume and structure were my results. Maybe my loading technique (spread in bowl) vs brush loading isn’t helping, but I tend to use a large amount of product and add water slowly so this shouldn’t be an issue.
I have hard water at my home as does all of Chester County, PA. I did not bloom the soap or try distilled water, but I will for completeness. I would not want to have to use distilled water since I do not need to with other bases but I will try it to eliminate the variable.
I do not have the same lather building challenges with GD Mallard 2022 base, which lather and build up well for me. I am very much looking forward to Mallard 2023’s release.
As far as other bases, I can’t put K2e or Omnibus in the same category as Ethos, for me Ethos is at a higher performance level and in another category level.
However, if I’m doing something different and that is why I’m having my challenges, I’m open to all suggestions on how to lather Kairos SE and standard Kairos. I’d like to really get similar results as to many of you.
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
I’m not prone to hyperbole; but this Ketoret scent might be my favorite of all soaps period. It’s simply incredible.
I've said the same thing about a few of GD soaps. The ones he dropped last year omnia/ousia were ridiculous. If I could go back I'd have bought 4 of each. I can't buy them all so I'm probably missing out on some.
That's high praise @Hannah's Dad! Can you please elaborate. What comes across from those scents notes?
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
I wish I could convey the precise scent notes that I detect, but I’m unable. They just blend so well together into a lovely, non-cologne, non-polarizing scent. I realize that isn’t very helpful. It’s intoxicatingly enigmatic - like a prettier version of B&M Paganini’s Violin.
SPOILER WARNING: I just read the above posts after writing the below, and am expressing what I get from Ketoret. Don't read unless you want to have my idea of its scent in your head.
Hi Hannah's Dad, I decided to try Ketoret (and Kairos SE base, my first Grooming Dept soap) just on the basis of your post. I had no idea what the scent would be based on the Mo's description of it: "Balsam, Galbanum, Spices, Costus, Spikenard, Frankincense, Myrrh." Nor, could I figure out what it was when I smelled the puck when it arrived yesterday.
Then I tried it this morning. I had just switched razors and put in a new blade, and got two nicks, so I'm not ready to weigh in on how it performs for me as a soap. I'm still learning it. But the scent! To me it's a strong, pure, unsweet tobacco. Do you get that from it? I love sweet tobacco scents, but this one is way more pure and direct. At first I was shocked and then started to savor it. It lingered nicely (I don't have the aftershave). I'm looking forward to using it! If you pick up a different set of notes from it, I'll look for those on my next shave.
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
I don’t smell tobacco at all with Ketoret (unlike with Le Tabac). I am unable to describe it, but it is my favorite soap scent currently. I have 3 pucks of it now.SPOILER WARNING: I just read the above posts after writing the below, and am expressing what I get from Ketoret. Don't read unless you want to have my idea of its scent in your head.
Hi Hannah's Dad, I decided to try Ketoret (and Kairos SE base, my first Grooming Dept soap) just on the basis of your post. I had no idea what the scent would be based on the Mo's description of it: "Balsam, Galbanum, Spices, Costus, Spikenard, Frankincense, Myrrh." Nor, could I figure out what it was when I smelled the puck when it arrived yesterday.
Then I tried it this morning. I had just switched razors and put in a new blade, and got two nicks, so I'm not ready to weigh in on how it performs for me as a soap. I'm still learning it. But the scent! To me it's a strong, pure, unsweet tobacco. Do you get that from it? I love sweet tobacco scents, but this one is way more pure and direct. At first I was shocked and then started to savor it. It lingered nicely (I don't have the aftershave). I'm looking forward to using it! If you pick up a different set of notes from it, I'll look for those on my next shave.
I will keep experiencing it. Maybe Ketoret is just its own thing that Mohammed created. How often can someone create a unique scent? Impressive.
@johnnylighton
It's interesting to hear that you perceive Ketoret as a tobacco scent, but my understanding differs. I don't actually own the soap or aftershave myself, but from my googling, I've found that Ketoret is a type of incense used in ancient Jewish and biblical rituals.
I thought Ousia II was the tobacco scent.
It's interesting to hear that you perceive Ketoret as a tobacco scent, but my understanding differs. I don't actually own the soap or aftershave myself, but from my googling, I've found that Ketoret is a type of incense used in ancient Jewish and biblical rituals.
I thought Ousia II was the tobacco scent.
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
I only get a tobacco vibe from Le Tabac - Ousia II and Ketoret do have an element of incense. But it’s not a 1970’s hippie incense; rather, it is very sophisticated and elegant. I can’t stop using GD soaps.
I could be totally off about the tobacco. I'll keep living with it. I thought of Wholly Kaw King of Bourbon as a sweet tobacco even though it's got other notes in it (loved the scent, one of my favorites, but couldn't get the soap to work for me as well as it does for others; could be my water). Maybe I'm tobacco-happy?
I tried the Mumtaz Kairos SE 2023 and the scent is too powerful and long lasting. I'm airing it out on Mo's advice, bought the Pura Kairos Unscented and am hoping that some future formulation has a more mild, brief scent.
If anyone knows of any existing GD formulations that are mild/brief scents, I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'll use up what I have and see what's out and about when I'm closer to the bottom of my last tub.
If anyone knows of any existing GD formulations that are mild/brief scents, I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'll use up what I have and see what's out and about when I'm closer to the bottom of my last tub.
English Lavender is mild. Believe it's still available at some vendors. Only problem is that it's in the older Kairos base- still very good but not Kairos SE.
New GD soaps are out of my price range in EU.
I continue to use pre-Kairos soaps, which include the Janus vegan, Janus Tallow, Lusso, and even the Primus base. These soaps have maintained their elite status over time. Despite trying out newer formulas from 2023 by various artisans, I have found that none of them surpass the exceptional quality of the older GD formulas!
I continue to use pre-Kairos soaps, which include the Janus vegan, Janus Tallow, Lusso, and even the Primus base. These soaps have maintained their elite status over time. Despite trying out newer formulas from 2023 by various artisans, I have found that none of them surpass the exceptional quality of the older GD formulas!
Came here searching for that kind of feedback, the experiences of others, and yours mirrors mine, exactly. The good news is, it—the low lather—doesn't seem to matter: Kairos SE 2023 (Mumtaz) provided what may be the closest, least-irritation, straight-razor shave I've experienced to date. The residual conditioning was so abundant, I didn't even bother to re-lather for every pass. This base brings the purple-unicorn magic in spades.
