I've had the same initial reaction to some of these soaps. You have to actually use them and they'll change.
Grooming Dept scents?
- Thread starter N6GQ
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@Barbarian80 - I hope so! The Mumtaz smells nice initially, but it just lingers in a way for me that is not enjoyable or endearing. It was practically like a cologne in its potency and endurance post-shave. That's not what I'm looking for. I prefer scents that are light and brief.
Unfortunately, I didn't have any way of knowing that prior to purchase. Ironically, Mo said most thought Mumtaz was mild. Just goes to show that everyone's olfactory sensitives can be very different. My household uses very little lingering scent products. No 30-day scented detergents, frequent air freshers, incense, candles, overt deodorants, etc. Consequently, my sensitivity is high, and with very few exceptions, I don't enjoy aroma hangers-on. That's me.
By the time I'm done with my existing soaps, maybe GD will have some other truly mild options. I'll see what's what towards the end of this year.
Unfortunately, I didn't have any way of knowing that prior to purchase. Ironically, Mo said most thought Mumtaz was mild. Just goes to show that everyone's olfactory sensitives can be very different. My household uses very little lingering scent products. No 30-day scented detergents, frequent air freshers, incense, candles, overt deodorants, etc. Consequently, my sensitivity is high, and with very few exceptions, I don't enjoy aroma hangers-on. That's me.
By the time I'm done with my existing soaps, maybe GD will have some other truly mild options. I'll see what's what towards the end of this year.
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At the urging of this thread, I bought some Mumtaz and L'aventurra (SE 2023 bases) and also a few others (Le Tabac). I used Mumtaz on Saturday and L'aventurra on Sunday. Both had a great bases as you all suggest, and to me, Mumtaz was not too strong nor unpleasing. In fact, I quite liked it. So at this point I think I just need to use it a bit more to get more of the subtleties but so far I'm happy with them. Thanks for the recommendations and help!
@N6GQ - congrats! The Kairos SE 2023 base is indeed amazing!
I love using my Kairos SE base soap, Ketoret. Thank you, @Hannah's Dad for your great posts about it! Its scent is unique and special. At first I thought it was tobacco, now I realize it's an intoxicating mix of green plant resins, spices, and incense but without being sweet or cloying. I'd say it's a medium-strength scent, and lingers on my face in a subtle way for at least an hour. As several others have said, my face has never felt better after shaving than with this Kairos SE base. Ketoret is my first but definitely not my last of Mo's products!
Edited to add: There is at least one available on the site Murphy & McNeil.
Edited to add: There is at least one available on the site Murphy & McNeil.
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
You’re welcome, my friend.
For those of you who follow my posts, you already know that I think Mohammad of Grooming Dept/Aion Skincare is one of the most talented soapmakers in the world today. Ever since I purchased my first tub of Grooming Dept shaving soap, which may have been Janus Tallow, each new formula has improved on the previous one. The Kairos SE 2023 formulation is spectacular.
A week ago Mohammad released the 2023 version of the Mallard formula. These soaps are still available on the Grooming Dept web site. Due to the large number of soaps in my collection, I have not yet ordered one of the new Mallards and am eagerly awaiting reviews from those who did.
While I readily recommend soap formulations, I rarely recommend specific scents. Preferences for scent strength and scent types vary widely. Also, some people are have skin sensitivities to specific scent ingredients. My preference is for medium strength scents as I rarely apply a scented aftershave or cologne. Some scents can be too strong. Some can be rather weak. I like complex scents that are so well blended that is difficult to pick out the specific scent notes used in the blend.
Many soapmakers who can produce great shaving soaps are not skilled perfumers. Thus, their scents might not be a good as their soaps. Some soapmakers overcome their lack of perfumery skills by collaborating with those who have those skills. Mohammad is unusual in that he is both a skilled soapmaker and a skilled perfumer. I currently have 29 Grooming Dept soaps in my collection that I purchased with my own funds. Of those, I rate 20 of the scents as 10 out of 10; I love them. However, there are 2 of Mo's scents in my collection that only rate 7/10; I tolerate them. Those are early purchases as I have learned how to assess scent notes such that I can pick out scents that I am likely to love.
I have purchased some scents early on that I hated. None of these were from Grooming Dept. To my nose, Taconic Shave Urban Woods smelled like a stale ash tray. Although the scent notes of Wholly Kaw Spice Vitae sounded like something I might like, I detested the scent. Both of these soaps were PIFfed.
A week ago Mohammad released the 2023 version of the Mallard formula. These soaps are still available on the Grooming Dept web site. Due to the large number of soaps in my collection, I have not yet ordered one of the new Mallards and am eagerly awaiting reviews from those who did.
While I readily recommend soap formulations, I rarely recommend specific scents. Preferences for scent strength and scent types vary widely. Also, some people are have skin sensitivities to specific scent ingredients. My preference is for medium strength scents as I rarely apply a scented aftershave or cologne. Some scents can be too strong. Some can be rather weak. I like complex scents that are so well blended that is difficult to pick out the specific scent notes used in the blend.
Many soapmakers who can produce great shaving soaps are not skilled perfumers. Thus, their scents might not be a good as their soaps. Some soapmakers overcome their lack of perfumery skills by collaborating with those who have those skills. Mohammad is unusual in that he is both a skilled soapmaker and a skilled perfumer. I currently have 29 Grooming Dept soaps in my collection that I purchased with my own funds. Of those, I rate 20 of the scents as 10 out of 10; I love them. However, there are 2 of Mo's scents in my collection that only rate 7/10; I tolerate them. Those are early purchases as I have learned how to assess scent notes such that I can pick out scents that I am likely to love.
I have purchased some scents early on that I hated. None of these were from Grooming Dept. To my nose, Taconic Shave Urban Woods smelled like a stale ash tray. Although the scent notes of Wholly Kaw Spice Vitae sounded like something I might like, I detested the scent. Both of these soaps were PIFfed.
Lucky man. A few years back I purchased Amber and Oud as I like both scents quite a bit. It wouldn't gag a maggot, but it didn't smell good.
Been thinking about trying either Luxor or l'Avventura as my first grooming dept soap but can't seem to find a lot descriptions of the scents. Which of these would smell more linear/'natural'?
Hannah's Dad
I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
L’Avventura is lavender-forward and more linear, IMHO. Very ‘safe’ scent profile.
Of the two, it's pretty much a toss-up, but like H.D. said L'Avventura is an easy like. I don't know why you don't just get both.
Luxor is my favorite scent of the three GD soaps I have currently, but Osuia II and Edel (Donkeybase) are pleasing scents as well. I feel like I've been lucky so far with my blind GD purchases so far.
I've got the mallard-base Laundry III and Kairos Chamomile & Lemon on the way, I'm trying not to have any expectations.
If you check the GD website there are still Mallards for sale. All of the new mallards were intended to be fresh/clean/light scents- so there are other great options besides the 2 you mentioned. I don't have l'Avventura, but Luxor i do have and it's definitely not in the natural category. It's a fruity, soapy, and bright scent.
I have a couple K.SE coming in today; Luxor and Ketoret iirc
Excited to give these a sampling as I really like the performance of my English Lavender and La Rosa Profunda
But as @Barbarian80 stated, it doesn’t seem to convey when used. On a loaded brush the product is very pleasant to me
Excited to give these a sampling as I really like the performance of my English Lavender and La Rosa Profunda
There is a bit of something that doesn’t agree with me, smelling EL off the tub - not at all.
But as @Barbarian80 stated, it doesn’t seem to convey when used. On a loaded brush the product is very pleasant to me
Now I feel foolish for worrying - Chamomile Lemon is a fantastic woody lemonish scent that's somewhat mild compared to Luxor off the puck. I can't wait to shave with it!
Luxor and Ketoret smell very good to me 
Ketoret - I get the comparison to Paganini's Violin; which I like very much as well
Luxor is just shy of being cloy to me, just enough out of reach though
Can't wait for the opportunity to contrast the K to the K.SE
Ketoret - I get the comparison to Paganini's Violin; which I like very much as well
Luxor is just shy of being cloy to me, just enough out of reach though
Can't wait for the opportunity to contrast the K to the K.SE
I would love to hear your thoughts on scent. I love those two combinations. I am currently looking for w citrus and resin/ pine scent by gd. Lol
It's great! I write a lot more about it here but if there's a bumblebee heaven, this is what it smells like
The woody notes dissipate quickly I'll mention. Lathered up the scent is dominated by what I think of as soothing golden lemon vibe with enough woodyness to be suggestive the outdoors on an amazing summer day.
Thank you! I will read your review as well!It's great! I write a lot more about it here but if there's a bumblebee heaven, this is what it smells like
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The woody notes dissipate quickly I'll mention. Lathered up the scent is dominated by what I think of as soothing golden lemon vibe with enough woodyness to be suggestive the outdoors on an amazing summer day.
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