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Simple soaps vs complex soaps- which do you prefer and why?

So we all know the trends that have captured the wetshaving industry in the last half a decade or so. Gone are the days where modern artisans make a basic 5-8 ingredient soap and call it good. Most modern soaps and artisans trying to break into the soap making industry are releasing products with sometimes upwards of 20 ingredients. These ingredients range from duck fat and bison tallow all the way to snail mucin and marshmallow extract. These soaps are more soap/moisturizer hybrids. And when they are applied to your face feel very dense, creamy, fatty, and skin nourishing. One cannot doubt the satisfaction of such a sensation upon your face. But the question is; does it make for a better shave or even an equal shave to simpler soaps such as MDC, MWF, Proraso, etc?

When I first started wetshaving in the traditional fashion I was chasing all the latest bases. I thought the perfect shave was in reach so long as I climbed that mountain littered with the husks of old soap bases. I was buying declaration grooming, barrister and mann, ariana and evans and so forth. And don't get me wrong...the dedication to the hobby, the interesting scents, the sheer mastery of the alchemy that is soap making is commendable. Barrister and mann especially I have a soft spot for. But as the bases have developed I find myself wondering if the pursuit of density and creaminess isn't somewhat counter intuitive.

Take Omnibus for instance. This soap is amazing, truly. I get great shaves out of it. Not to mention I adore many of Wills scents. But the soap is so dense, so creamy, that even if I hydrate it to the cusp of the lather breaking I cannot feel what the blade is doing on my face unless it is doing something absolutely catastrophic to my hair or skin. I feel I could almost shave with broken glass with this soap. And therein lies the problem for me. Sometimes with these dense and hydrating soaps I get irritation after the fact because I can't get a sense of how well the blade is cutting or if it's cutting cleanly or not. For this reason I find myself gravitating towards very slick but minimal Ingredient soaps that allow me to feel everything that's going on on my face. Which is a bummer because I like the ethos of many of the brands of artisans.

Anyways, all of this is to ask, what kind of soaps do you prefer? Moisturizing fatty soaps that you could comfortably use to mask the tugging and irritation of shaving with a rusty butter knife or slick thin basic lathers like Mikes/tobs/proraso/mdc that really do not provide any cushion at all but ample slickness to get the job done?
 
I hate to say this but, it depends. In the winter my skin tends to be dry so I reach for the more moisturizing soaps. In the summer my skin is oily, so I reach for the less moisturizing soaps. I'm still experimenting but this is as close to a generalization as I can get. 🤷‍♂️

Edited to add: I pretty much only use one razor so the correct angle of attack is muscle memory at this point. I don't need to feel what the blade is doing with my everyday razor.
 
I hate to say this but, it depends. In the winter my skin tends to be dry so I reach for the more moisturizing soaps. In the summer my skin is oily, so I reach for the less moisturizing soaps. I'm still experimenting but this is as close to a generalization as I can get. 🤷‍♂️

Edited to add: I pretty much only use one razor so the correct angle of attack is muscle memory at this point. I don't need to feel what the blade is doing with my everyday razor.
I mostly use the same razor too. I should probably stop being so obsessive about how a shave feels. I just find my (quite literally) ocd kicks in if I can't feel things happening. I tend to wonder what irritation could be transpiring under the lather 😆
 
I'm mostly interested in slickness and scent. I really don't understand the complaints about a soap being "drying" as I always apply aftershave and moisturiser after rinsing off. So I just look for the qualities of the shave itself, not post shave feel.

Having said that, I do get amazing shaves from Ariana & Evans Vetiver Magnifique, if that is considered a complex base?

More often that not, though, the soaps I prefer have a pretty small ingredients list. They are also mostly without tallow. Speick, Saponificio Varesino and MdC feature heavily in my rotation. They all work great, with straights or DEs.

I could care less about this base or that. It's just soap, after all... :p
 
I keep Mikes, MWF, Speick, Hasslinger’s and what’s left of I Coloniali on hand. Sterling scent free samples have preformed really well and will likely replace the tallow Fat when it’s gone. I dislike all of his scents I’ve ever tried, since day one. Never bought a full puck. Yet.

Tallow Tabac was great but I hate the scent. Same for Volabra.

Get a DG for a Christmas. Phenomenal performance. Super complex and strong scent profile. Higher price point too.

I’ve kept to my go to’s for years now and I’m good with them. I’m not sure what I’ll replace the Speick with when I use them up. But I’ll get by. I don’t feel compelled to chase artisanal super soaps either.
 
It seems I'm in the minority that is partial to thinner feeling soaps. The density in higher end soaps just throws me off. The shave feels like butter, true, but I just wonder why? Why are some soaps more effortless feeling in terms of a shave than others? Is it softening hair or is it masking irritation? I'd love to understand the mechanics of soap ingredients better
 
My choice of soaps is somewhat limited because I choose to only use soaps with only vegetarian ingredients. I wanted to use Noble Otter some day (cuz the otter is so cute! and their packaging is nice, yes shallow reasons I know) if I can manage to get it, but I think they all have (beef?) tallow.

Luckily for me, locally there are a few very good artisan shaving soap makers that make these vegetarian soaps and none of them seem to have over 20 ingredients, so I suppose these would all classify as simpler soaps. I will explore most of these soaps which would keep me well stocked for years to come!
 
My choice of soaps is somewhat limited because I choose to only use soaps with only vegetarian ingredients. I wanted to use Noble Otter some day (cuz the otter is so cute! and their packaging is nice, yes shallow reasons I know) if I can manage to get it, but I think they all have (beef?) tallow.

Luckily for me, locally there are a few very good artisan shaving soap makers that make these vegetarian soaps and none of them seem to have over 20 ingredients, so I suppose these would all classify as simpler soaps. I will explore most of these soaps which would keep me well stocked for years to come!
Martin de candre is an exceptional soap and very vegan. Wholly kaw makes great vegan soaps and so does zingari man. Zingari man's vegan soap is honestly better than their tallow
 
The starting point in understanding why soaps have more than 8 ingredients is to understand what every ingredient does, how it contributes to the final product and what are the general requirements for a soap. Hint, don't limit those requirements only to what you want/need from a soap, but include also what others need as well. Then, soaps have more than 8 ingredients suddenly starts to make sense.

Some will argue that complex soaps are not necessary. They do have a point, from a certain perspective. But then we can say the same about riding a bicycle versus driving a car. There is a simplicity in riding the bicycle, but they do not do things equally.
 

musicman1951

three-tu-tu, three-tu-tu
I like a simple soap. I already have a compromised immune system, so I'm not hunting for a large ingredient list. I have dry skin, so I'm not interested in a really drying soap, but on the other hand I use Thayer's with aloe followed by a moisturizer, so the soap doesn't have to provide a ton of moisturizing. MdC is my favorite.
 
Great, probing, reflective, thoughtful content. Thanks for that, @Sethology. The way you've framed the question may reflect your journey towards mastery and a turn to minimalism, like a rifleman who takes up a compound bow and then decides to whittle his own primitive piece from an Osage orange stave.

The buttercream soaps have appealed to me most, so far . . . to the point of gathering too many of them. This is cheaper than collecting premium hardware, though, and enjoying face feels and pleasing scents may be part of the experience for me.

That said, about three hours post-shave this morning, I went back to address a minor stubble spot on my neck and used only a splash of water and a 6/8 straight razor, and it worked fine.

Water and a straight?

That's John-Rambo minimalism, man.
 
Great, probing, reflective, thoughtful content. Thanks for that, @Sethology. The way you've framed the question may reflect your journey towards mastery and a turn to minimalism, like a rifleman who takes up a compound bow and then decides to whittle his own primitive piece from an Osage orange stave.

The buttercream soaps have appealed to me most, so far . . . to the point of gathering too many of them. This is cheaper than collecting premium hardware, though, and enjoying face feels and pleasing scents may be part of the experience for me.

That said, about three hours post-shave this morning, I went back to address a minor stubble spot on my neck and used only a splash of water and a 6/8 straight razor, and it worked fine.

Water and a straight?

That's John-Rambo minimalism, man.
I think I could get away with just hot water if I didn't have to shave my mustache or goattee areas. They really need something to lubricate the process. But I appreciate it! I spend way too much time contemplating shaving 😆
 
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There's a pretty extensive list of ingredients in this Jabones de Joserra soap, but there was no sensation of a heavy lather getting in the way of the razor. Noir produced a very nourished-skin feeling for me with no greasiness and with no need for a balm.
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
Slick.
Any other concern for me is periferal.
I'm looking to shave whiskers off my face.
I'm not looking for "skin nourishment" or lather that "looks like" whipped cream.
I don't much care how many, or what the ingredients are.
I don't obsess about the pursuit of so called "cushion".
I want a very slick soap. That's all you need for a good shave.
A scent that is not repugnant is a close second.
 
I don't know that I've personally seen a correlation between a soap's complexity and and what I'll call "compatibility"; a soap either work for me, or it does not. The percentage of vegan vs tallow formulations in my rotation is currently 60/40. Having said that, most of the soaps I prefer and use regularly tend to have a fairly short list of ingredients (e.g. Canada Shave Soap).
 
Slick.
Any other concern for me is periferal.
I'm looking to shave whiskers off my face.
I'm not looking for "skin nourishment" or lather that "looks like" whipped cream.
I don't much care how many, or what the ingredients are.
I don't obsess about the pursuit of so called "cushion".
I want a very slick soap. That's all you need for a good shave.
A scent that is not repugnant is a close second.
Yep. I tried multiple soaps and found the one thing was slickness. Some of the more scented soaps don’t agree with me. The only thing I would add would be drying. Some of the soaps dry my skin out and it’s an irritating feeling. Once I got the hang of MFW it’s hard for me to change.
 
I'm not sure if complex many ingredient or simple few ingredient soaps matter as much as the maker does. I seem to prefer hard soaps mdc, wsp, or sv. I do love B&M, M&M, SW, PAA etc. some of these are almost just for scent though. Sometimes I am fine with just their aftershaves, but sometimes like matching sets, if its something I can say is just that good.
 
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