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Frag Acquisitions

Two picked up in Barcelona last week:

The Tauer is Lone Star Memories. Wonderful birch tar. Smells of saddles and horses, and burnt wood, and bad, strong coffee, and honest sweat. Andy Tauer is great.

The Perris Monte Carlo Java Vetiver is smokey and intense. Reminds me of the intense Italian vetivers I fell in love with when I first joined B&B. I had never heard of this house. Seems like a good one.
 
Just tried a sample of GFT Eucris EDP. Definitely can see this being a love/hate thing whenever I get a whiff of that musky note. One thing for sure is its a really intriguing scent. Has anyone compared the EDT to the EDP? I think I might like this better if it were in a milder form than the EDP.
I have both and the EdT is definitely milder with some of the notes slightly less prominent?
 

Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
I gotta cool it. I hadn't bought any fragrances in well over a year, but in the last 6 weeks I've bought a lot. First I bought 2 bottles each of Floris Special 127 and Mugler Cologne. I am quite smitten by the 127. I figured I would like it but I'm surprised at how much I enjoy it. Then I laid in a spare bottle of Dunhill Amalfi Citrus. My God do I love that one. Last week I ordered testers of Floris Santal and Neroli Voyage, and just yesterday I ordered two bottles of Penhaligon's Castile. I've finally learned that at this point in my life I strongly favor traditional light and soapy scents, and everything I've purchased lately fits squarely into those categories.

If I can stop the purchasing now I'll be fine. But I'm at that point where the next purchase may be the one that takes the fun out of it. I reached that point with shaving brushes 5 or 6 years ago and I am starting to get that same feeling with fragrances.
 

Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
I think of 127 as highly underrated. I am intrigued by the this Dunhill line of scents. I still really like the sandalwood.
If you like citrus, Amalfi Citrus will do it. Starts out lush and green. And a gorgeous dry down with neroli and cardamom followed by a warm vetiver. Somehow the slightly tart and bitter citrus never completely goes away. I can't get over the quality of this fragrance.
They often say that 127 was the precursor to No. 89. I see the similarities but I think that 127 suits me better. Not as floral. This is one with a fantastic neroli in the background. I think I'm attracted to the relative simplicity of some of the old time colognes.
 
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I am fighting my own acquisition disorder on these Dunhill frags from whatever "collection" this is. As I mentioned, I really like the sandalwood.

I just ordered a bottle of the Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo. I like what the reviews say about it. I have been a long time LV fan.
 

Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
I am fighting my own acquisition disorder on these Dunhill frags from whatever "collection" this is. As I mentioned, I really like the sandalwood.

I just ordered a bottle of the Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo. I like what the reviews say about it. I have been a long time LV fan.
I have the Sandalwood from Dunhill as well. Such a lush, warm fragrance. It seems a bit too heavy for me to wear at work, so I've only worn it around the house. Bought it on your recommendation, actually. When I mentioned above that I hadn't made any purchases in well over a year I had forgotten that I bought the Dunhill Indian Sandalwood 6 or 8 months ago.
 
It seems a bit too heavy for me to wear at work, so I've only worn it around the house. Bought it on your recommendation, actually.
Whoops! Sorry if I mislead you. I am a big sandalwood fan, and I had not thought about it, but I guess Sandalwood is relatively "heavy" compared to more citrus and floral based scents. Maybe even vetivers. I would say not as heavy, at least this Dunhill, as most leather or this oud I write about elsewhere. I find sandalwood to be soothing. Maybe I am inclined to tolerate it being heavier and stronger than some other scents as a result!

I am guessing sandalwood was once a much more common scent for me. Back when Mysore sandalwood was not so dear.
 

Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
Whoops! Sorry if I mislead you. I am a big sandalwood fan, and I had not thought about it, but I guess Sandalwood is relatively "heavy" compared to more citrus and floral based scents. Maybe even vetivers. I would say not as heavy, at least this Dunhill, as most leather or this oud I write about elsewhere. I find sandalwood to be soothing. Maybe I am inclined to tolerate it being heavier and stronger than some other scents as a result!

I am guessing sandalwood was once a much more common scent for me. Back when Mysore sandalwood was not so dear.
You didn't mislead me at all. Sorry if I implied that. Certainly was not my intent. I love the scent. I work at home a lot, so it's getting some solid use... The Floris Santal that I just bought is a great compromise between citrus lightness and woody depth and fullness. A lot going on in the base in addition to the sandalwood. Looking forward to exploring it.
 
You didn't mislead me at all. Sorry if I implied that. Certainly was not my intent.
Oh, I did not perceive you as complaining at all--I "know" you pretty well at this point and would not be offended if you were complaining! :) -- and I was kind of kidding around a little. But it did make me think about something I had not given much thought to, which is whether sandalwood, at least one like the Dunhill, might be considered "heavy," maybe too heavy for the office. Thoughts on "heaviness" and "lightness" might be something to consider for any public critique of a scent. I am talking about a quality different from power or, say, silage.

It is an interesting thing to think about. Right now I am thinking that folks probably think of leather scents as inherently "heavy," but that because they are common, even for office wear, that that is not a problem. But because sandalwood is less common it having a certain "heaviness" might be a more important consideration.

Folks have all sorts of thoughts on what scents are appropriate and in what concentrations for various scenarios. And I find myself not having clear thoughts on some scenarios and scents. For instance, C&S 88 is a powerful, incensey (to me!) dark rose. I love it, and many folks do, but it seems a little funereal to me. Would I suggest it for the office? I am not sure. Not for everyone, anyway. Would I wear it to the office? Probably. I would think about it though. Works better with a suit, I think, than a pair of jeans, but maybe not. Lots of folks love Domenico Caraceni 1913. I think I would be careful with that one, too. It just does not smell to me like a standard men's scent.

I think the fact that sandalwood is not that common a man's scent these days might be something to consider. I do wear it often though and expect to wear this new LV sw a lot, too.

The Floris Santal that I just bought is a great compromise between citrus lightness and woody depth and fullness. A lot going on in the base in addition to the sandalwood.
It has been a while since I tried that scent. I think Floris is pretty solid all around. The vintage Floris sandalwood is a wonderful creamy, pure, Mysore sandalwood. As you accurately describe it, the Floris Santal is very different. Not at all such a committed sw scent.
 
The LV Sandalo was waiting for me when I got home tonight. Wow, this one is going to take some experiencing and thought. I really should not be posting any impressions just yet. I guess I had not paid attention to how polarizing the on-line reviews of this scent were. Many seem to refer to this as a creamy sw. Others say a harsh, bitter, dry wood. I think I tend toward the latter, although some reviews refer to this scent as evolving a lot over the time of wearing and drying down into a softer scent. (Other reviews refer to this scent as linear.) Notes are supposedly: "Top notes are Brazilian Rosewood, Lavender, Petitgrain, Lemon and Orange; middle notes are Sandalwood, Labdanum, Neroli and Bulgarian Rose; base notes are Sandalwood, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Opoponax, Amber, Patchouli and Musk." That is complicated. Hardly a simple, creamy sw.

I really did not mean to post this yet. But I think I will stop here and come back providing impressions after more experience with this scent. I am wondering whether this LV Sandalo would seem less heavy and better adapted to regular office wear than the Dunhill sw. I think maybe so. The LV seems more modern to me, even though many of the reviews refer to it as seeming like an older style scent, which I do not think I am getting. I admit that I am a big LV fan and may be biased.
 
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Owen Bawn

Garden party cupcake scented
Looking forward to a more detailed discussion. Give it some time. I never trust my initial reaction to a fragrance. Takes me 5 or 6 uses at least. I also think there's something to the idea of maceration. I know frags change over the "longue duree" but I seem to find subtle improvements in many frags once the sprayer has been used a bit over the course of a few weeks. Probably my imagination.
 
OB,

When I first started playing around more intensely with frags, I found I really could not trust my first impressions of a frag. Of course, that first impression should include some dry down and wearing as most frags are not their top notes. There was many a frag I did not like at first that over time grew on me and a few I really came to love. As I become more experienced, I found my initial impressions to be more trustworthy, but my relative lack of any intense involvement over the past few years may have brought me back to square one!

I know frags change over the "longue duree" but I seem to find subtle improvements in many frags once the sprayer has been used a bit over the course of a few weeks. Probably my imagination.
An interesting thought! I find myself without an opinion. There is the thinking that certain red wines benefit from aeration. I do not see why some exposure to air would not affect scents, including for the better. I can see how having some air, even a little in a bottle of scent might settle down the top notes, for instance. I have not thought about how much scents I have had for a long time may have changes. I suppose it stands to reason that a scent in a 3/4 empty bottle might change a lot, just because of that. Leaving out things like exposure to sunlight/heat. Some folks keep their scents in a fridge.
 
But I think I will stop here and come back providing impressions after more experience with this scent. I am wondering whether this LV Sandalo would seem less heavy and better adapted to regular office wear than the Dunhill sw.
I find myself still not ready to do a full discussion of the LV Sandalo, particularly in comparison to the Dunhill sandalwood. But I think I would say that the LV would be considered less heavy and, perhaps, better adapted to regular office wear than the Dunhill. The LV seems like a drier, more modern, perhaps, scent. Less intensely a traditional sandalwood, perhaps. I like and have been wearing them both to the office, though.

I am sure no one was sitting on the edge of their seats waiting for my thoughts on this :) , but I thought I should report something back!
 
I am such a sucker for a deal when I have a bunch of loyalty points burning a hole in my cyber wallet. I made a day trip to the USA last weekend (3 miles from my cottage) and headed straight to Ulta to spend my points.

My first Valentino and it is excellent. Same idea as Dior Homme Intense/Parfum, but lavender instead of iris. The bottle is a tad over the top though!

Valentino Uomo Born In Roma Intense​

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