How's everything going Dilbone? Making any progress?
It's going well David,How's everything going Dilbone? Making any progress?
How did I miss this thread earlier?
Dilbone: Switching from film????
The only thing saving you from a charge of apostasy and being burned upon the stake is that you use a Gold Dollar razor.
Myself, I use a single piece of film for upwards of 20 edges. Yes, it gets less aggressive with each use, but if it were a slurry, folks would be cooing over how the slurry had "broken down" and refined the edge even further...or some such (just stirring the pot Guys, no harm intended)
The other factor that is different than your application is that I do use other hones as bevel setters, I don't like low grit film for that. I set the bevel on a Harbor Freight diamond plate (600 grit or so), slide it around on a KAI hone I picked up in Japan for $15 (roughly a 1200 or so it says), then hit up the 3um and 1um film to finish. Sometimes I dial it in with a pasted strop depending on my mood.
I have found that my DMT plates have worn out quite a bit over time as well. They are quite a bit slower/mellower/weaker than they used to be.
Anyhow, I do like the synthetic hones as as change of pace and feel when honing. But, as Slash mentioned, they wear out too due to material loss in lapping, but maintain uniform cutting power over their lifetime.
Good to know....I wasn't sure how those would work but that sounds like a plan, I may have to head up there tomorrow and pick up a set.Right, the Harbor Freight diamond hones are as crooked as a Missouri politician, but You can simply superglue them down onto something that is flat (like atile, or whatever you'd use to lap hones, etc), and bingo_ they are now flat. And you can get a set of three for $10
I stuck mine down with epoxy and clamps, worked great. Until one day all three failed. I think the weather change made the bond fail from different expansion rates. The backing appears to be a polyurethane to me, which is hard to bond to. I'm going to try a silicone caulk this time.Right, the Harbor Freight diamond hones are as crooked as a Missouri politician, but You can simply superglue them down onto something that is flat (like atile, or whatever you'd use to lap hones, etc), and bingo_ they are now flat. And you can get a set of three for $10
, it feels like they are actually doing something to the edge compared to my old paddles.
I stuck mine down with epoxy and clamps, worked great. Until one day all three failed. I think the weather change made the bond fail from different expansion rates. The backing appears to be a polyurethane to me, which is hard to bond to. I'm going to try a silicone caulk this time.
1k - 6k is a common jump for finishing cutlery.
I've been jumping from 1.5k to 5k for a while now, and it's working perfectly for me.
But - the concept of 'k' doesn't always tell the story; for example, I'm not certain you'll see legitimate improvement from the N 8k after honing on the K 6k.
The 'k' numbers don't mean much really.
Goitta roll with what you have to see what you get. Then try to refine it.
Some people don't like Chromox, I'm one of them. Factually though, lots of people have had success using it and continue to use it.
Like anything else, technique plays a big part in it. I used it when I started out - once I figured it out - it worked fine for me then.
Crox is what pushed me to getting a 12k SS, but I'm glad I had the benchmark from Crox in my toolbox.
One problem with grit ratings is that there are several different rating scales. There is ANSI grit, used by Norton and other US and Canadian manufacturers. There is JIS grit used by Naniwa and other Asian companies.