Exchanging Films for Stones. . . . maybe

[Dilbone]

After spending a ridiculous amount of time on this Pearl King, it is finally shaving again.

After hitting the Norton 8K I took a break and came back at the cnat for probably a good 45 minutes...I know that sounds like terrible overkill, but it just didn't seem like it was polishing like it should. I looked like only a couple of spots of the spine were really polished while the rest still had the faint 8k scratches in it.

I also wasn't getting as strong of tree topping on the leg hair as I normally would coming off of 1u or the cnat so I just kept going, using a fair amount of pressure and then easing up again...still it didn't look like it was getting any better so I quit.

I went and hit 35 laps on cotton crox and it was popping hairs like mad. I put it away last night and planned to shave with it this morning. I took it out and hit it with what I usually finish with after crox on a freshly honed blade, 20 clean cotton and 80 leather.

I had a strong 3 days growth and it mowed it down without batting an eye. The ATG under my jaw (where I can easily tell if an edge is gone or not)was smooth and irritation free. It was just a good as any other blade I've honed IME and was a really nice shave. Now if I can just get it done and not take 4 hours to do it I'd be a bit happier.

I think I know partly why this blade took so long to get shave ready again after having already been shave ready back in April. I think the scales are gone and I've got cell rot, the edge was in pretty bad shape after sitting but I don't know if that is normal or not. This is the blade when I finished cleaning it up last January...then it sat in a drawer since last April. I tried to use only steel wool when I was working on it because I was trying to save as much of the etching as I could so some of the pitting had to stay. I will have to post a current pic of it when I get home, but there is definitely a line that is rust free above the scales.


It's too bad too, because part of why I picked these up is because I love the look. I may have to find something similar and make a new set for it if that turns out what is really happening. Although it may just be a result of having to leave so much of the pitting behind while in a drawer for 8 months.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Too bad about the scales, because they look stunning. Maybe a very thin G10 or brass liner would help, and allow you to keep the scales. I think with outgassing celluloid scales, closing the razor up in a coffin or case just accellerates the cell rot.

As for why it took so long on the Cnat, I am guessing that either your Norton or your Guangxhi Special was not flat. Did you try a sharpie test, on the C12k? Also do remember that a C12k can be pretty slow. Not as slow as an arkie, but pretty durn slow.

 

[Dilbone]

Too bad about the scales, because they look stunning. Maybe a very thin G10 or brass liner would help, and allow you to keep the scales. I think with outgassing celluloid scales, closing the razor up in a coffin or case just accellerates the cell rot.

As for why it took so long on the Cnat, I am guessing that either your Norton or your Guangxhi Special was not flat. Did you try a sharpie test, on the C12k? Also do remember that a C12k can be pretty slow. Not as slow as an arkie, but pretty durn slow.

After looking at the pic from then and seeing it last night again, it doesn't seem any worse...maybe I just remember it looking much better when I finished cleaning it up. The fact that there is no rust at all on the tang would lead me to believe that the scales are fine at this point. Now if some nitwit hadn't carved in a B or 8 into the one scale I'd be happier still...

Anyway, Slash you are right about all of the stones and the fact that flatness has been an issue for me all around. I lapped everything flat again last night, not changing paper at all but allowing the slurry from each stone to do the work of flattening even as the paper began to wear out. I also flattened the C12k which I hadn't done yet since getting it from David...hearing how hard they were I wasn't sure how often to lap it.
After seeing the diminishing results from it I decided it needed it...the feedback was terrible, the surface seemed like it just wouldn't absorb water at all(just kept beading up and pooling), and once the surface was dry I looked at it in the light and it was pretty well loaded up...like bad. No wonder it wasn't doing much after 45minutes....Now I know...

I did take another Gold Dollar I had put in maple/mahogany 2-tone scales for last year's GD competition that had already been shave ready but had fallen out of service and hit the stones. I started with the 6k thinking it would just need to be refreshed...after A LOT of laps I wasn't getting anywhere. Eventually I decided to go ahead and head back to the 1k for bevel setting and it still took me 50-70 laps to get it set again...I had no idea it was that far gone. I then hit the 6k slightly with it just to begin to refine it a bit and then put everything away. Hopefully I can get that one going again soon as I really like it. I'd like to finally get all of mine up and running and in a regular rotation. I've got a Larkin and Jones MFG. Co that just need a refresh from the looks of things then I've got this old W&B that I'd really like to get ready but I can't get the bevel set on that thing to save my life. I might need the W/D 400grit on marble to attack that one.

I'm not sure if what I'm doing with the stones is any better or worse than film...but I'm definitely learning a lot and don't feel like I'm "burning" through materials to learn the lessons now even though I know these stones do have a finite life span...I honestly don't think I'm ever going to see the end of it with the 10 or so I have plus a few additions I'm sure will follow me home.

PS Shaved with the Clauss I have which was the last successful film honing for me. It was good, but not as good as the Pearl King yesterday coming off of the stones then crox on cotton. I may have to hit it with crox as well since it came off of the 1u and straight to leather. I'll have to see how it feels then.

 

[Seraphim]

Instead of 45 minutes on the CNat, your time would have been better spent on a lower grit hone to REEEEEALY get the bevel set. Having a good, REALLY good bevel set is the Key to a smooth shave. All the high grit polishing is nice and all, but it is all show and no go if the bevel isn't set.

And as mentioned already, but beras repeating, if the hone is not lapped ABSOLUTELY FLAT. It will work like caa-caa and give mysterious results.

Lapping a hone is a bit like setting the bevel on a Gold Dollar: it takes ALOT longer than anyone imagines it should, and requires ALOT of elbow grease.

Especially the Cnats, those things are made of depleted uranium or something. You need a VERY aggressive lapping tool (diamond plate works), as they just laugh at sandpaper and eat it continuously until you say "uncle"


Once lapped truly flat, hones are easy to maintain flatness if you touch up after each honing session.