I'm trying my first restore and tried to set my knot last night. I used Powerpoxy sportsmans epoxy which is supposed to fully cure and dry in 12 hours. I spread some on the bottom of the knot and the inside of the shelf, let it dry for 24 hours and went to build a test lather tonight. Soaked the brush in warm water for about 5 minutes, pulled it out and the knot was loose in the handle. The knot was sitting in a closed bathroom the entire curing time so should I try the same epoxy but let it cure longer in an open area? Does anyone have any other tips on how to try and ensure the knot stays affixed? Thanks for any ideas you have.
Epoxy didn't set and knot fell out
- Thread starter hmbbone
- Start date
Well that sounds either like you did not get the epoxy mixed properly, or did not have contact between the knot base and the handle shelf/walls.
Did the knot rise up out of the glue?
Is the glue inside the knot still "wet"?
If it is uncured, I would toss that glue and get some new and try again.
Did the knot rise up out of the glue?
Is the glue inside the knot still "wet"?
If it is uncured, I would toss that glue and get some new and try again.
I mix my epoxy on a piece of card stock with a toothpick.
When I'm done I stick the toothpick into the leftover epoxy that way I can tell when the epoxy has fully harden without disturbing the knot.
When I'm done I stick the toothpick into the leftover epoxy that way I can tell when the epoxy has fully harden without disturbing the knot.
If the knot was just too loose make sure you rough up any epoxy you have stuck in the cavity. Epoxy can be fussy with sticking to itself on a fresh surface, amine blush is a surface film that needs to be removed.
- Thread starter
- #6
The knot came up out of the glue, some glue on the knot and some in the handle with the glue a little wet.
This sounds like a great idea that I will definately try when I reset the knot.
I think I got most of the epoxy out but I will make sure I sand any that is left in. Is it best to sand the bottom of the knot when putting that in the handle?
Thanks all for the replies. This board is a wealth of information.
The industry standard for epoxy work is the texture of the mating surfaces should be roughened to the equivalent of 80 grit sandpaper.
As long as its not shiny I think you will be fine.
Get some new fresh product and mix it well.
As long as its not shiny I think you will be fine.
Get some new fresh product and mix it well.
This is just what I do, but I am usually using something a lot larger than a toothpick to mix with!
Love that stuff. Mix up some household ammonia and water and scrub it off I usually use about 1/4 to 1/2 cup per gallon. Wet sanding is another good choice. Blush is a wax-like substance and a byproduct of epoxy curing.
Being in a small room won't matter any, epoxy cures in vacuum bags and under plastic wrap just fine. The fumes kicked off are not that healthy is the only problem with the small room. The brush is such a tiny thing that it probably doesn't matter unless the smell bothers you.
Phil
Phil, have you tried any of the low/no blush resins?
My knot popped out after a couple weeks, so before resetting it I roughed up the bottom of the knot and the inside of the handle by making careful gouges with a sharp object, just to make sure the glue had something to grip. It has held ever since.
Just West System 105/207 for a high build finish, applied varnish after. I still did the wash with ammonia water before sanding for the varnish. This wasn't a whole lot of experience as I was working on someone else's project using their supplies.
I have never had problems with "green" layers bonding without prep. I admit limited experience as I have only done minor fiberglass repairs and built one canoe.
And the canoe ended up so ugly I painted it.
Phil
That made me laugh out loud.
Mostly repairs here on my end also, interlux or stuff from a commercial place that just sells 5 gal drums and up of stuff.
I did a few canoes and duckboats that we used an existing boat as a positive mold and popped the hulls off that.
Ahh the good old days...
That made me laugh out loud.
Mostly repairs here on my end also, interlux or stuff from a commercial place that just sells 5 gal drums and up of stuff.
I did a few canoes and duckboats that we used an existing boat as a positive mold and popped the hulls off that.
Ahh the good old days...
It is to laugh. I have some of the same experiences. One-off fiberglass boats or shells are always a sanding nightmare. I have a Folbot folder in the attic, which I intend to replicate in frozen snot some day.
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks for all the help guys. I now have lathered the brush up 5 or 6 times and the knot is still in. I finished another restore as well which seems to be holding up. Below are the two finished products. An Everready 50RA set to 54mm loft with a TGN finest fan and a Fuller set at 45mm loft with a TGN grade A silvertip. The gouge around the middle of the everready was there when I bought it but the handle was too nice to pass up even with that.
Well done Matt!
Nice job. I have a Fuller like that and I love the feel and weight of the solid catalin.
Some of those Everreadys were catalin coated plaster. Is the "gouge" like a scratch or is it a thin even crack? Mine was a crack and one day it fell apart. I glued it back together and it's a great brush but now it looks like it's glued together.
+1 That is how I tell how my epoxy has set up also. It will also tell you if you have a problem with the epoxy.
Nice looking brushes Matt.
Routinfo needs to post an after shot now.
Phil
Routinfo needs to post an after shot now.
Phil
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