Break down and wipe down razor after every shave?

[Vineeze]

The oil coating on blades are only there to keep them from rusting and tarnishing prior to use while in transit and setting on vendors shelves. It serves no other purpose. As soon as you rinse the razor prior to shaving it will rinse off. As to the alcohol and the platinum coating...the alcohol will not take off the platinum coating.

What about teflon coating on Vokshod blades or Chrome coating on Shark Chrome?

The Vokshod blades with teflon coating say on the package "Do not wipe blades" so if a simple wipe will remove the teflon than I fear that alcohol is even stronger than that. I use 70% Iso alcohol to wipe the screen of my phone because it eats the fingerprint oils

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Shave with it, swish it in the sink, shake excess water off, ditch it in the beaker with the toothbrush ... Done!

 

[Bricksville]

The oil coating on blades are only there to keep them from rusting and tarnishing prior to use while in transit and setting on vendors shelves. It serves no other purpose. As soon as you rinse the razor prior to shaving it will rinse off. As to the alcohol and the platinum coating...the alcohol will not take off the platinum coating.

With due respect, I'm not sure there is truth to any of this. Stainless steel doesn't need oil to keep it from rusting. That's pretty much the point of stainless steel.

The coating applied to stainless steel blades is to prevent the "Kro-Man" effect -- the fact that stainless steel edges (unlike carbon steel edges) have carbide particles that break off, resulting in a rough edge. That was the problem with Gillette's early Kro-Man stainless steel blades (first developed in 1928). They were corrosion resistant but became rough very quickly. The public hated them, and Gillette dropped stainless steel as a blade material for almost 40 years.

In the late 1950's Gillette started coating their carbon steel Blue Blades and called them Super Blue Blades. The idea was to make them more corrosion resistant. The response was positive.

Then in the mid-1960's, Wilkinson Sword used the same Gillette-patented coating technique to coat stainless steel blades, and that solved the problem of carbide particles from the Kro-Man era. Poor Wilkinson had to pay Gillette a patent royalty; then Gillette started doing it itself, and Wilkinson succumbed.

So the question for this discussion is this: Does wiping or applying alcohol to a modern coated stainless steel blade compromise its carefully-applied coating, without which its carbide particles would make the blade rougher?

 

[muzichead]

What about teflon coating on Vokshod blades or Chrome coating on Shark Chrome?

The Vokshod blades with teflon coating say on the package "Do not wipe blades" so if a simple wipe will remove the teflon than I fear that alcohol is even stronger than that. I use 70% Iso alcohol to wipe the screen of my phone because it eats the fingerprint oils

Yes, alcohol will remove oils but not a teflon or chrome coating... The Vokshod blades do say "do not wipe blade", but that is for safety and doesn't have anything to do with the coating. They don't want someone to cut themselves as they "might" wipe the blade the wrong way and then try to sue them for being cut!! I'm sure everyone here has read that type of story on some forum somewhere...I certainly have...

 

[cwnidog]

All I do is to rinse off the whole razor when I though and then to touch the edge of the razor (blade) to a towel. I don't take it apart until I'm ready to change the blade. I use a 3 piece razor.

My method exactly. If needed, a toothbrush (I don't recommend the one you're currently using) will handle any residue.

 

[Heron]

Just a rinse, shake, and spray of alcohol daily, and a cleaning once a week.

 

[Northstonehill]

Although in my everyday life one can safely say I'm neglecting the minor obligations my better part imposes on me on a random basis, when it comes to my razors, I take out the blade, rinse, towel wipe before I give all the razor parts a thorough wipe with a duster cloth. I leave the disassembled parts to completely dry on the rack and then assemble loosely. I finally place the assembled razor on the rack and enjoy the sight. I wouldn't have it any other way, every time, no fail.

+1 to all said. Well spoken, sir!

 

[User 306]

Rinse well, take apart, Spray all parts with alcohol, rinse again, wipe dry let it sit on the towel while I'm rinsing and alcohol spraying the blade which I blot dry then put it in a blade bank I have for that particular blade type. Frugal shave sells vented blade banks for DE, AC, Gems and FHS Feathers so you can keep your blades separated and in order. Then I take the blow dryer and dry all parts of the razor and then depending on the razor take a fine eyeglass microfiber cloth and go over the razor. I do this because I rarely shave with the same razor two days in a row. I have some injectors that I only rinse well, spray with alcohol and then wipe and blow dry it but leave the blade in as I get a whole lot of shaves out of one blade.

 

[BigSpivito]

What about teflon coating on Vokshod blades or Chrome coating on Shark Chrome?

The Vokshod blades with teflon coating say on the package "Do not wipe blades" so if a simple wipe will remove the teflon than I fear that alcohol is even stronger than that. I use 70% Iso alcohol to wipe the screen of my phone because it eats the fingerprint oils

In regards to your issue with alcohol resolving Teflon, it would take very high heat and something much stronger than alcohol to break it down. It is, in essence, a plastic, but do a quick google search to quench your thirst for knowledge. It tends to have a better answer pool than B&B (sometimes)

I would assume it is the same with chrome coatings.

The main issue you want to elementary from your razor post shave is water. With the razor being most likely a brass core, you would only be worried about it deteriorating the metal. If it is a piece you truly care about the look of or would be scared of shaving with rust, look at what are called “tea stains”. These are small rust deposits on the razor left from a wet blade that places surface rust on the razor itself. These can be removed some of the time, other times it is harder and more labor intensive.

To answer the original question, I rinse the razor disassembled after each shave, shake it free of water, and place it on a washcloth to dry. I put the blade between a folded corner of the cloth so that it dries on both sides and is not out for the kids to reach. It typically dries on about 10 minutes or so, and I can then assemble it and put it back on its stand.

As a side note, if you want to remove some soap scum and restore some shine, get a can of scrubbing bubbles cleaner WITHOUT bleach. I tend to give the razors I used the previous week a quick shine with that on Saturday or Sunday afternoons.


Happy Shaving
-Chris
US Army Veteran, Foxhole Shavers Club Member

 

[Shavist]

I take apart and wipe down only because I've seen what happens when you don't. Razors stay in good condition.

 

[Mugwhamp]

I rinse them off, give a good shake or two, then put them in the stand. Only break them down and clean them when the blade is changed. Goes for TTO and three piece.

This^^^^


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sandstone]

Yep, every time.

 

[czbeme]

Yep, every time.

+1
I like my razor to be totally clean for every shave.
A perfectly clean razor enhances the shaving experience.
I have a glass of wine every day, and I wash the glass every day.
A clean glass makes the wine drinking experience better.
If you just want to suck down some alcohol,
or you just want to scrap off whiskers then who cares.
Well I care.

 

[Slipknot]

I rinse my razor well after shaving, but only break it down when I change blades. KiSS for me!

+1

 

[asingh]

I disassemble much as I can, and scrub the living daylights out of all exposed surfaces. Including the screw threads* if it is a 3 (or 2) piece.


*My Parker 98R suddenly stopped engaging all the way to the last thread when the blade guard / cap are screwed down on the handle. It just happened overnight. Not sure why. So the whole assembly is now loose -- of course cannot use it. Why would this have happened..?

 

[GearNoir]

I disassemble much as I can, and scrub the living daylights out of all exposed surfaces. Including the screw threads* if it is a 3 (or 2) piece.


*My Parker 98R suddenly stopped engaging all the way to the last thread when the blade guard / cap are screwed down on the handle. It just happened overnight. Not sure why. So the whole assembly is now loose -- of course cannot use it. Why would this have happened..?

Over tightening messed up the threads perhaps?

 

[asingh]

Over tightening messed up the threads perhaps?

Not really. I always tighten gently, till it feels flush and stop.! I just found it weird. Overnight the mechanism became wobbly.

 

[member 119848]

Yes every time.
I even use a hair dryer to make sure no moisture is left.

 

[epipeman]

Shave with it, swish it in the sink, shake excess water off, ditch it in the beaker with the toothbrush ... Done!

+1
My beaker is an enamel camping mug (white with a blue lip). Both razors go in there, heads resting on the lip.

 

[BarryR]

Wow! I must be a slouch.
These are made of metal...

I rinse quickly under the faucet.
Every few YEARS (that's right years), I soak them in something or other and scrub them with a toothbrush to get the white scale off which is only on the bottom of the baseplate. I don't have hard water so that probably helps.

The blades are changed about weekly and the guard bar stays perfectly clean.
Why bother doing more?