Barber end strops: Yea or Nay?
- Thread starter Tomo
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timwcic
"Look what I found"
I prefer a barber cut but do have handles on my three inch leather. Love my vintage horse and linen but my tony miller’s are a joy to use
I used the 928 for the first time today. It's really stiff and "slick" resulting in a very fast draw. And to be honest, it didn't seem to do much for my edges. I ended up restroping both razors on my TM Steerdovan to get them where I like them.
Should this strop be so stiff and fast? Or do I need to do a bit more "conditioning" to this old leather?
And as for the Barbers' Ends, I think it will take some getting used to, but they will be workable.
I like mine fast but it shouldn't be too stiff. Its thicker leather so will feel a little stiffer.
Work it a bit.
It should do plenty to help any edge, you should not need to use another after.
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- #45
I’m no expert but I’d image that old hard leather would benefit from getting lightly flexed back and forth. Maybe a light sanding with a high grit sandpaper to raise the nap. If required a very light application of Neatsfoot oil or similar.
It may also just improve with a bit of use. Too much intervention can sometimes go the other way.
So ... I finally cast my vote. I like barber ends. Not my favorite, but I would no longer pass up on a nice strop just because of barber ends.
As for the 928, I'm slowly nursing it back to use. I think it's just too dried out to function as intended. I've been through 2 light applications of neetsfoot with regular use for after-shave stropping to get it loosened up. It's showing marked improvement, but not quite there yet.
As for the 928, I'm slowly nursing it back to use. I think it's just too dried out to function as intended. I've been through 2 light applications of neetsfoot with regular use for after-shave stropping to get it loosened up. It's showing marked improvement, but not quite there yet.
timwcic
"Look what I found"
Have you given the leather a good cleaning and treatment with saddle soap. It is sometimes amazing what that little puck of soap can do to dried out leather. I am working on one now that I was afraid it was going to snap in half. After a few treatment, I was just burnishing the leather around a wine bottle
No, I haven't. I read many, many comments that convinced me that, while saddle soap may work for saddles and other thick, stiff, leathers, it tended to dry thinner leathers.
And to be honest, there's very little that comes of on the rag when applying neetsfoot. I have the impression that's it's not very "dirty", just dry.
I will say that the minimalistic neetsfoot treatments are doing some good. I think I'll stick with it and see how far it will go.
It may take some time but I think you will likely be happy with the result.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
If it is REALLY dry, try soaking it in warm water for a couple hours and then rubbing the hair side with a bottle, using a lot of pressure, on a nice smooth board, flesh side down. Spend some time on it, and do several sessions as the water dries out. When the water is nearly dried out of it, give it another neatsfoot treatment, several drops, applied with your hand. Rub with a bottle some more. Then hold off on more neatsfoot, but hand rub it daily for a few weeks, maybe 5 minutes or so. Pull the strop fairly tight and bear down on it pretty hard with the rubbing hand. You want to loosen up the fibers and restore the suppleness. A lot of oil is not needed for that, just a little. The water soak will accelerate the process but does little lasting harm since it evaporates in just a couple days.
Saddle soap IME doesn't damage leather that has an unbroken hair side surface. You do have to lightly scrub, wipe, and rinse thoroughly if the leather is very old and dry, and replace with a little neatsfoot. A little is a lot. Don't over oil.
Saddle soap IME doesn't damage leather that has an unbroken hair side surface. You do have to lightly scrub, wipe, and rinse thoroughly if the leather is very old and dry, and replace with a little neatsfoot. A little is a lot. Don't over oil.
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- #51
I ended up going with the barber ends again. Why ruin a winning combination? I placed the order with Westholme order back in October and it’s finally ready to ship. A fine piece of Horween Shell Cordovan is inbound to the den from the UK. The razors will be spoiled.
I’m still waiting to get a nick in my first strop after 10 months of daily use. I’m sure it will happen eventually so it will be good to have a back up. Horses like company.
I’m still waiting to get a nick in my first strop after 10 months of daily use. I’m sure it will happen eventually so it will be good to have a back up. Horses like company.
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D rings?
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- #53
That’s what I meant...
Looks like a bloody nice strop, I have to say.
Nice strop but good Lord... Looked them up. Those cost more than Kanayamas.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Well, D rings don't grow on trees, you know.
I agree with Slash that reversible is handy.
And it's not that beginners nick their strops and experienced shavers don't.
Everyone, including experienced shavers, can have a moment's inattention. That's all it takes. I've been doing this for a while and I've nicked up my strop, as you can see below. It's ok. Tony only charges us thirty bucks for a new component.
But you can have reversibility without having to have a bottom cap and ring. If you want barbershop, you can have barbershop and reversibility, both.
If you cut up the top of your strop, just take the barbershop bottom and punch holes and swap it up into the upper gear and you're good. No need to have rings swinging at the bottom for five years waiting to do their duty.
And it's not that beginners nick their strops and experienced shavers don't.
Everyone, including experienced shavers, can have a moment's inattention. That's all it takes. I've been doing this for a while and I've nicked up my strop, as you can see below. It's ok. Tony only charges us thirty bucks for a new component.
But you can have reversibility without having to have a bottom cap and ring. If you want barbershop, you can have barbershop and reversibility, both.
If you cut up the top of your strop, just take the barbershop bottom and punch holes and swap it up into the upper gear and you're good. No need to have rings swinging at the bottom for five years waiting to do their duty.
Since making this post, I have discussed this with Tony, and I've changed my mind.
The bottom cap does help with preventing cupping.
I really dislike any cupping at all, so although I am content with holding a barber end, I'm going to stay with bottom caps and rings after all.
The bottom cap does help with preventing cupping.
I really dislike any cupping at all, so although I am content with holding a barber end, I'm going to stay with bottom caps and rings after all.
You can hold the bottom fairly well with just the fingers but just not as easy as having a firm cap on all the time helping to stabilize the bottom. That said though stops are fairly long and the rigid bottom only helps so far up and then the leather will do what it wants. They help but are not perfect. For the straigh cut, "barber" end a longer strop is needed to give enough room for stropping and holding. On those I usually make the components 24" long rather than 20"
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