Are different straights more 'aggresive'?

[mammoo]

Hi all,

I have my first straight on it's way in the post. It's going to be a couple of weeks before I get to try it as I will be sending it on to be honed by someone who knows what they are doing but in the mean time I have a couple of questions.

Firstly, I've tried a variety of safety razors from old Gillettes to new Merkurs and I find that I much prefer the milder razors such as the Super Speeds compared to the more aggressive razors like the slant.

I know that when straight shaving the angle you use affects the aggressiveness of the shave but are there any other factors with the blade itself? Are some straight razors more aggressive than others for instance?

Thanks

 

[bearbear]

Hi all,

I have my first straight on it's way in the post. It's going to be a couple of weeks before I get to try it as I will be sending it on to be honed by someone who knows what they are doing but in the mean time I have a couple of questions.

Firstly, I've tried a variety of safety razors from old Gillettes to new Merkurs and I find that I much prefer the milder razors such as the Super Speeds compared to the more aggressive razors like the slant.

I know that when straight shaving the angle you use affects the aggressiveness of the shave but are there any other factors with the blade itself? Are some straight razors more aggressive than others for instance?

Thanks

...yes and no. The straight is the ultimate adjustable, that being said each straight is unique based on how the edge was honed, the blade forged, the composition (i.e. high carbon, ss) stroped etc etc. They will all have diff aggressiveness at diff. angles and shave differently. Generally, the steeper the angle, the more aggressive your pass will be.

This is my limited understanding, if i'm completely off here or if the senoir members (and i mean that with the utmost respect) want to reject, add or clarify, please do so.

 

[mparker762]

I know that when straight shaving the angle you use affects the aggressiveness of the shave but are there any other factors with the blade itself? Are some straight razors more aggressive than others for instance?

To some extent, but not in a way that's really comparable to a DE.

Ultimately though, with a straight razor you are the agent that is responsible for the condition of the edge, so if you want a more aggressive or milder or smoother edge then it is in your power to make it so. If you want to "open it up" in DE parlance then it is a simple matter of raising the spine a bit, or conversely lowering the spine to "dial it down". With some experience you will be making these sorts of adjustments all over your face, fluidly varying the aggressiveness of the shave depending on the circumstances. One of the advantages of the full hollow razor is they provide a lot of feedback about what the blade is doing to the whiskers, and with experience that will instinctively feed back into what your hand is doing regarding pressure and angle.

Personally I think wedge blades are a bit more aggressive than full hollows, but others have the opposite opinion, so this is really a matter of how the blade meshes with your personal shaving style. I'm used to the huge amount of feedback from the full hollows, so with wedges I wind up shaving too aggressively (usually too much pressure) because I'm not getting the level of feedback to my ears and fingers that tells me when and how much to back off.

 

[mdunn]

...yes and no. The straight is the ultimate adjustable, that being said each straight is unique based on how the edge was honed, the blade forged, the composition (i.e. high carbon, ss) stroped etc etc. They will all have diff aggressiveness at diff. angles and shave differently. Generally, the steeper the angle, the more aggressive your pass will be.

This is my limited understanding, if i'm completely off here or if the senoir members (and i mean that with the utmost respect) want to reject, add or clarify, please do so.

thats pretty much on the money.

every straight is different. even two identical ones can shave differently.

(or at least thats what we say to excuse buying lots of them)

 

[crankymoose]

I agree with what has been said but I will add some spike points are down right nasty and will get your attention -styptic pencil in use real quick if you are not careful, round points are generally safer for new straight users

 

[mammoo]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm staying well clear of a spike for the time being.

I've got a Dovo 'En Vogue' which is a full hollow ground so it sounds like I should be ok.

 

[mparker762]

I agree with what has been said but I will add some spike points are down right nasty and will get your attention -styptic pencil in use real quick if you are not careful, round points are generally safer for new straight users

It's the other way around for me. With round points there is a gradual fall-off in sharpness at the edge, and I tend to clip my nose and ears somewhere between the shaving-sharp region and the not-sharp-at-all region of the edge. But with spike points the sharp edge ends immediately and abruptly, so I never misjudge where dangerous part ends.

 

[Muirtach]

It's the other way around for me. With round points there is a gradual fall-off in sharpness at the edge, and I tend to clip my nose and ears somewhere between the shaving-sharp region and the not-sharp-at-all region of the edge. But with spike points the sharp edge ends immediately and abruptly, so I never misjudge where dangerous part ends.

same here. far more nicks with curved tips, though I did learn on a unlightened spike.

 

[mammoo]

That's something I hadn't considered before. It sounds like a spike is good when you are confident and know what you are doing.

Whilst learning though I'd rather get a few nicks than accidentally removing an ear lobe with a stray spike!

 

[mdunn]

That's something I hadn't considered before. It sounds like a spike is good when you are confident and know what you are doing.

Whilst learning though I'd rather get a few nicks than accidentally removing an ear lobe with a stray spike!

what do you need an ear lobe for, really?

 

[SavantStrike]

what do you need an ear lobe for, really?

More importantly how can you actually cut it off without getting incredibly reckless... Cut it yes, but cut it off?

 

[pcb01]

Aggressive can mean a couple of things to me. Sharpness, which can be quantified, and roughness, which may be more subjective. Either way, this can be due to one of two things: the angle of the blade, as you say, and the way the blade was honed.

Obviously, the angle does not change the sharpness of the blade, but at greater angles it will feel more aggressive, or rougher, on your skin. Blades can be made sharper, however, while at the same time feel less rough (aggressive) when they are finished on higher grit stones, or finished on pastes. Even the kind of finishing hone or paste at the same grit level(e.g., diamond versus chrome ox) can have a significant effect on how aggressive the blade feels.

Hope this helps.

 

[tlanning]

You are in for a real experience! Unlike de razors the straight is the ultimate "adjustable" just take your time, never rush and enjoy, (30 yrs of sraight shaving)

 

[scottish steve]

I love my ebony Dovo French-point. I think its as understated and elegant as anything, but I have developed the habit of sort of "flicking" off my face at the end of the stroke - a real no-no with a spike. Today I made the effort to go in-line with the edge till the end of the stroke and that made a big difference.

 

[Ichinichi]

I just started not too long ago. Since I had early onset SRAD, I picked up different grinds to try different ones. I figure that if I'm principled in my selection, I'll be able to sell the ones I don't like without too much risk.

My first few were on an unmuted spike; the added risk makes me pay closer attention, hopefully minimizing the chances of carelessly developing bad habits.