1/4 Turn to Lock on Slim not working

[dillon_b12]

I recently acquired a Gillette Slim that the 1/4 turn to lock feature does not work on. Does anyone know what causes this to fail and if it is repairable? I'm not familiar with the mechanism inside the Slim.

It doesn't appear to be dirt that is causing the problem, since it hasn't changed at all since soaking and cleaning the razor.

I know it doesn't affect the function of the razor, but it bothers me when things don't work as they should.

 

[srm_92000]

I recently acquired a Gillette Slim that the 1/4 turn to lock feature does not work on. Does anyone know what causes this to fail and if it is repairable? I'm not familiar with the mechanism inside the Slim.

It doesn't appear to be dirt that is causing the problem, since it hasn't changed at all since soaking and cleaning the razor.

I know it doesn't affect the function of the razor, but it bothers me when things don't work as they should.

Hi,
It can take a bit to actually get anything right inside to clean the thread of the TTO knob.
I posted a while back about the innards of the slim -
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/320693-Slim-adjustable-internals-and-disassembly
which should give you an idea of the insides.
If tightened on setting one (No blade!) you should be able to hold the handle and pull from under the head (on the bit where the writing is) making the whole door assembly lift from the guard against the spring pressure, this is quite strong but will test if the spring is seized.

As another test try leaving the TTO closed and adjusting, this will be firm going from 1 to 9 and easier the other way, this also compresses and releases the spring but without using the TTO thread under tension and thus tests for the cause being dirt/scale etc on the thread not noticed when loose.

Other than that it is most likely just dirt, I know others don't like doing it but a little oil wont harm to try and get it working, try in either end, down the shaft inside the head or fill the knob, leave overnight to soak through, it'll all wash out easy enough later on.

Note that on 1 there is often less than quarter turn and on 9 somewhat more.
Hope some of this helps,

 

[BBrad]

+1 Steve is correct - the compression spring at the bottom of the TTO knob is what causes the "quarter-turn-lock" as the TTO is tightened. The design compensates for the change in center rod length required by the adjustment.

If the spring is not broken, the lack of compression is generally the result of gunk hardened in the spring coils. Repeated soaking in very hot (almost boiling) water with dish soap will eventually soften the gunk and allow it to be flushed out.

Sadly, dillon, this does affect the function of the razor. Without the spring compression, the doors will not tighten completely. This can cause the blade to chatter, or the assembly to loosen up during the shave. Blood usually follows . . .

 

[dillon_b12]

Hi,
It can take a bit to actually get anything right inside to clean the thread of the TTO knob.
I posted a while back about the innards of the slim -
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/320693-Slim-adjustable-internals-and-disassembly
which should give you an idea of the insides.
If tightened on setting one (No blade!) you should be able to hold the handle and pull from under the head (on the bit where the writing is) making the whole door assembly lift from the guard against the spring pressure, this is quite strong but will test if the spring is seized.

As another test try leaving the TTO closed and adjusting, this will be firm going from 1 to 9 and easier the other way, this also compresses and releases the spring but without using the TTO thread under tension and thus tests for the cause being dirt/scale etc on the thread not noticed when loose.

Other than that it is most likely just dirt, I know others don't like doing it but a little oil wont harm to try and get it working, try in either end, down the shaft inside the head or fill the knob, leave overnight to soak through, it'll all wash out easy enough later on.

Note that on 1 there is often less than quarter turn and on 9 somewhat more.
Hope some of this helps,

Thanks for the info. I pulled on the head like you described. I can feel the spring pressure and the head pulls back down once I stop pulling on it.

Also, the doors do lock down tightly and I don't detect any blade rattling. I pulled up lightly on the doors while in the closed position and they stay locked down tight.

When tightening the knob, the razor feels like it binds up and gets squeaky when it should be engaging the 1/4 turn lock feature.

 

[srm_92000]

I'd say just keep cleaning it and using it then.
The problem is probably hard scale on the TTO threads, you could try oil in the TTO which should make it work temporarily, as soon as it washes out the problem could come back.
Perhaps try the baking soda and near boiling water soak or some anti lime-scale type cleaner.

 

[dillon_b12]

I'd say just keep cleaning it and using it then.
The problem is probably hard scale on the TTO threads, you could try oil in the TTO which should make it work temporarily, as soon as it washes out the problem could come back.
Perhaps try the baking soda and near boiling water soak or some anti lime-scale type cleaner.

My initial cleaning of this razor was with near boiling water and baking soda. I followed that up with a toothbrush and some Dawn. I haven't tried applying any oil yet, so I guess that is the next step.

If that doesn't work, I guess I'll be disassembling a TTO for the first time soon...

 

[BBrad]

My initial cleaning of this razor was with near boiling water and baking soda. I followed that up with a toothbrush and some Dawn. I haven't tried applying any oil yet, so I guess that is the next step.

If that doesn't work, I guess I'll be disassembling a TTO for the first time soon...

Once you "pop" the retainer, the compression spring is the first thing that comes out. At that point, any gunk in the spring (or spring cavity) can be flushed without further disassembly. The proper operation of the compression spring is the ONLY component responsible for the "quarter-turn lock-down."

 

[Swedish Steel]

I seem to have a similar problem with a new Super Adjustable. It seems that the TTO mechanism does not operate all the way; it will not open completely, just shy of the doors falling to the sides, and will not close with that last quarter turn. I will let it soak in water and detergent and see what happens.

 

[Haiku]

I had a fatboy that acted up the same way. A 10 minute soak in Barbicide fixed the problem. Barbicide is corrosive and it seems to me that it dissolved whatever the gunk was that caused the problem. Possibly lime build up. Soak too long in Barbicide and you'll damage the plating.

In another case, paint thinner flushed the gunk out. Not pain stripper. Paint thinner.

 

[Northstonehill]

Or you could send it to Cap for an overhaul. Is it not costly at all and you get a razor back which is brand new. Cap is the best razor fixer of all!

 

[Invicta]

I haven't tried applying any oil yet, so I guess that is the next step.

Penetrating oil applied regularly over a week should get it moving. These things sometimes need a little patience.

 

[Swedish Steel]

Thank you!

An update: After having soaked overnight the quarter turn seems to begin to work. I do not have barbicide, but I will try some oil.

 

[Hoka Hey]

Thank you!

An update: After having soaked overnight the quarter turn seems to begin to work. I do not have barbicide, but I will try some oil.

Try soaking another time or two first, if it seems to be working. Got to get whatever is gunking it up out. Oiling now may just give you greasy gunk.

 

[Swedish Steel]

Try soaking another time or two first, if it seems to be working. Got to get whatever is gunking it up out. Oiling now may just give you greasy gunk.

Seems like a good idea. Thank you very much!

 

[troy]

I've had several Slims and one Fatty with this issue. Soaking in hot soapy water worked on all but one of them. One Slim didn't want to loosen up after a couple of days. on that one I used Zippo lighter fluid. Just a few drops down inside of it. and worked the knob. Black gunk just poured out of it within a few minutes. Lighter fluid will evaporate quickly and doesn't leave oily gunk behind.

 

[Swedish Steel]

I've had several Slims and one Fatty with this issue. Soaking in hot soapy water worked on all but one of them. One Slim didn't want to loosen up after a couple of days. on that one I used Zippo lighter fluid. Just a few drops down inside of it. and worked the knob. Black gunk just poured out of it within a few minutes. Lighter fluid will evaporate quickly and doesn't leave oily gunk behind.

Imagine that, I have a bottle of lighter(*) fluid handy. I will use it if needed and report back.

(*) No, I am not a smoker, I just prefer Zippos for making fire in the field.

 

[troy]

Imagine that, I have a bottle of lighter(*) fluid handy. I will use it if needed and report back.

(*) No, I am not a smoker, I just prefer Zippos for making fire in the field.

If the soaking is working I would stick with it, but If you're going to use anything else it would be my choice.

 

[Swedish Steel]

Some lighter fluid, and now it works. Sort of. Turns out that one door is a bit lazy. But that I can live with for now.

Thanks!

 

[troy]

Some lighter fluid, and now it works. Sort of. Turns out that one door is a bit lazy. But that I can live with for now.

Thanks!

Glad it's working. For the door, check to see if it's hitting one of the safety bars. Sometimes the bars get bent in a little and catch the corner of the door. If it catches and jumps this is most likely the issue. Just look very closely while opening and closing.

 

[anemic]

I have a Slim with a chattery blade and I've just noticed that the 1/4 lock doesn't seem to move anything, yet the TTO knob does twist the appropriate amount till it hits the stop. Am I correct in presuming that the blade plate / side bars should move into their final position, which is almost up to the blade, when the 1/4 turn lock twist functions correctly?

My Slim has a significant gap between the blade plate and the blade (viewed from the side) which doesn't seem to move when doing the final twist. Seems to me like the lock twist should move the blade plate into the full upright and locked position which should be visually picked up. I wish I had another Slim to compare.