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My current attempt at sharpening a modern DE blade

First, I’m going to address why sharpen a DE blade at all. Many say blades are cheap, so why bother? Many people have so many blades that they simply want to get through their stash. Personally I feel that trying to use up something for the sake of using the item up a silly. Rather, one can gift, or sell their excess. The throwaway mentality is very common today, mainly born out of social pressure and the manufacturing of disposable products. It’s usually easier to throw something away that to clean or maintain an item. Yet there are many benefits to being able to maintain the blade’s edge. First, many blades get better after the first shave. So knowing the basic concept of corking a blade can help one get a perfect shave the first shave. Some other blades are inconsistent, so testing and honing before first use can help one avoid the dreaded bad blade. Maintaining a blade means you won’t be stuck without a good one, even if you can’t get a new blade.

The most simple and quite effective way of stropping a DE blade is with a glass cup. Here’s a picture of me holding a DE blade in a glass cup to give a novice an orientation and how to hold the blade in a glass cup.
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Through my research is apparent that it’s good to put a little liquid into the cup where the blade would sit. Liquids of choice is water, rubbing alcohol, or vinegar. The rubbing alcohol and vinegar can help clean and remove some oxidation on the blade while honing. Water is a completely acceptable medium for modern stainless steel blades, yet one should probably avoid water if using a carbon steel blade. One of the most important things to do is to make sure the entire blade is flat against the glass. In order to accomplish the flat blade, one should push the entire center of the DE blade flush against the glass. The DE blades are very flexible and will give a proper spring back against the glasses curves. Once the blade is in a little liquid and flush against the glass, one just moves the blade back and forth a few times. If the blade is bad, one will hear some grinding sounds which will disappear after a few strokes. This process has to be performed on both sides of the blade, so flip the blade after you’ve done one side. The glass cup also works on thicker blades, yet for thicker blades one will have to use much less pressure on the blade.

Now the tricky part, sharpening a DE blade. Most traditional methods of sharpening do not work on a modern DE blade. The main reason the traditional methods don’t work on a DE blade is that the blades are too thin and flexible, making a steady and proper angle very difficult to achieve. There are some other factors which make sharpening a DE blade difficult as well. Besides for the Teflon coating, which helps avoid the hair from binding onto the steel, shaving blades are ground with multiple facets, or a hollow grind. When the razor blade has three facets and the hypothetical manufactures final angle is at 15°, then using a 10° angle for re-sharpening will make the blade duller instead of sharper. This will happen because one will miss the tip and create a blunt end. Eventually, if one grinds enough metal away, their 10° angle will turn sharp, but when re-sharpening, one should try to remove as little metal as necessary.

I’m going to skip my failed attempts and show my current most successful affordable modern tool that is almost up for the DE sharpening task. the modern sharpeners I am referring to are the rolling knife sharpeners. Here is a picture of mine.
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The rolling knife Sharpeners have a magnetic base with pre-cut angles, which holds a knife at the pre-cut angle. One then takes the rolling sharpening pin and rolls the pin against the knife. This system works really well, but it’s designed for larger knives. When using small razor blades, the blade does not always protrude far enough for the sharpener to sharpen the blade. If one tries to lift the blade up higher, they run into an issue where the blade shifts during the grind, giving one a bad grind. I semi-solve this issue by cutting a thin magnet and placing it under the razor blade, causing the razor blade to protrude out a little further, letting me sharpen the blade. My solution is not a perfect solution as the blade still shifts a bit during sharpening, but I could still put a razor edge on a DE blade.

Here’s a link to the current magnetic block I am using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDWM4HG9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title This block includes a 10° angle where most of the blocks that come with the sharpening sets only include a 1 5° and 25° angles. While I know some sharp, straight razors have a 7° bevel yet, the best angle I have available right now is 10°.

There may be some other blocks which can hold a razor blade better, and I’m sure there are other expensive devices which can do more angles and possibly hold the blade completely sturdy, and if anybody knows of better devices, please let me know.

I am still a novice in razor blade sharpening and razor blade sharpening is more of a curiosity to me, then a necessity. I already own over a thousand blades and the number still seems to rise. In the long run, sharpening DE blades probably won’t even save money Because the sharpening tools cost money as well. Most people are probably better off just honing their blades in a glass cup and tossing the blade once the blade needs a more serious sharpening. yet for those of us that are a little more environmentally conscious and like to avoid planned obsolescence, or if they just want a little more control over their blade’s edge, they may be interested in re-sharpening their blades. Anyway, I would love to hear if anybody has better, or other methods for sharpening DE blades.
 
There are antique sharpeners and stroppers made by Sharpex and Twinplex. They show up on eBay.

Modern gear wise, there's cheap items like these, but the pictures show a cartridge system being sharpened. I don't see why a DE blade mounted in a safety razor wouldn't work though: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Sharpener-Cleaner-Cleaning-Shaver-Trimmer/dp/B07VWPTGYF
For 99% of people, a glass cup will straighten the edge better than trying to hold an angle with a stone. Most people will actually dull their blades if they try to strop the blade manually while holding their own angle. Some vintage tools work well for stropping, and some have a honing stone as well. However, none of these vintage tools allowed for adjusting the angle. Also, it may not be easy to replace the leather or stones in a vintage tool.

Maybe I didn’t prep enough, but I just shaved and my blade was refusing to cut through my supper tough chin hair. Eventually I got through the chin hair with no nicks or irritation. After the shave, I checked if I can re-sharpen the blade with my rolling knife sharpener. The blade started moving around too much, but I held the blade just still enough to get a sharper edge. I am so close to getting this sharpener to work, but I am not all the way there yet.
 
Blade are so Cheap, because I am not a resharpning expert.

I just use New Blade when blade gets dull.

Think a U-Tube is best way to show how your sharpening system works.
 
Ok, nobody should buy the product I mentioned in my opening post. I can’t consistently get the thin DE blades stable and I am ruining the edges as much, if not more often, than I am putting a half decent edge back on. Because this product is designed for large knives, it’s difficult to sharpen small knives with it. sharpening thin flexible razor blades with this product is nearly Imposible, although I am having a little more success with the thicker razor blades.

If @LJBraaten can get 625 shaves out of a feather using the Allergo, then maybe the Allergo is my best option. Or maybe I’ll just stick to sharpening thicker blades. Anyway, I am slightly leaning towards single edge shaving.
 
Other than sheer curiosity there is really no reason whatsoever to do this.
It’s just an easily accessible way of stropping modern DE blades. Even the one and done people can gain from a little stropping. Depending on the manufacture, a blade may improve by the second shave. Maybe the blades aren’t all properly stropped, or maybe the plastic coating is slightly splotchy. Either way, spending 30 seconds and running the blade through a cup before a shave can smooth out the shave for all the shaves. For those that use blades multiple times, stropping can remove jagged edges, reducing the chance of unintentional weepers.

For now, sharpening a thin DE blade is not worth it. Mainly because I am not a builder and nobody else seems to have the motivation to build one.
 
First, I’m going to address why sharpen a DE blade at all. Many say blades are cheap, so why bother? Many people have so many blades that they simply want to get through their stash. Personally I feel that trying to use up something for the sake of using the item up a silly. Rather, one can gift, or sell their excess. The throwaway mentality is very common today, mainly born out of social pressure and the manufacturing of disposable products. It’s usually easier to throw something away that to clean or maintain an item. Yet there are many benefits to being able to maintain the blade’s edge. First, many blades get better after the first shave. So knowing the basic concept of corking a blade can help one get a perfect shave the first shave. Some other blades are inconsistent, so testing and honing before first use can help one avoid the dreaded bad blade. Maintaining a blade means you won’t be stuck without a good one, even if you can’t get a new blade.

The most simple and quite effective way of stropping a DE blade is with a glass cup. Here’s a picture of me holding a DE blade in a glass cup to give a novice an orientation and how to hold the blade in a glass cup.
View attachment 1946273View attachment 1946275


Through my research is apparent that it’s good to put a little liquid into the cup where the blade would sit. Liquids of choice is water, rubbing alcohol, or vinegar. The rubbing alcohol and vinegar can help clean and remove some oxidation on the blade while honing. Water is a completely acceptable medium for modern stainless steel blades, yet one should probably avoid water if using a carbon steel blade. One of the most important things to do is to make sure the entire blade is flat against the glass. In order to accomplish the flat blade, one should push the entire center of the DE blade flush against the glass. The DE blades are very flexible and will give a proper spring back against the glasses curves. Once the blade is in a little liquid and flush against the glass, one just moves the blade back and forth a few times. If the blade is bad, one will hear some grinding sounds which will disappear after a few strokes. This process has to be performed on both sides of the blade, so flip the blade after you’ve done one side. The glass cup also works on thicker blades, yet for thicker blades one will have to use much less pressure on the blade.

Now the tricky part, sharpening a DE blade. Most traditional methods of sharpening do not work on a modern DE blade. The main reason the traditional methods don’t work on a DE blade is that the blades are too thin and flexible, making a steady and proper angle very difficult to achieve. There are some other factors which make sharpening a DE blade difficult as well. Besides for the Teflon coating, which helps avoid the hair from binding onto the steel, shaving blades are ground with multiple facets, or a hollow grind. When the razor blade has three facets and the hypothetical manufactures final angle is at 15°, then using a 10° angle for re-sharpening will make the blade duller instead of sharper. This will happen because one will miss the tip and create a blunt end. Eventually, if one grinds enough metal away, their 10° angle will turn sharp, but when re-sharpening, one should try to remove as little metal as necessary.

I’m going to skip my failed attempts and show my current most successful affordable modern tool that is almost up for the DE sharpening task. the modern sharpeners I am referring to are the rolling knife sharpeners. Here is a picture of mine.
View attachment 1946277



The rolling knife Sharpeners have a magnetic base with pre-cut angles, which holds a knife at the pre-cut angle. One then takes the rolling sharpening pin and rolls the pin against the knife. This system works really well, but it’s designed for larger knives. When using small razor blades, the blade does not always protrude far enough for the sharpener to sharpen the blade. If one tries to lift the blade up higher, they run into an issue where the blade shifts during the grind, giving one a bad grind. I semi-solve this issue by cutting a thin magnet and placing it under the razor blade, causing the razor blade to protrude out a little further, letting me sharpen the blade. My solution is not a perfect solution as the blade still shifts a bit during sharpening, but I could still put a razor edge on a DE blade.

Here’s a link to the current magnetic block I am using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDWM4HG9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title This block includes a 10° angle where most of the blocks that come with the sharpening sets only include a 1 5° and 25° angles. While I know some sharp, straight razors have a 7° bevel yet, the best angle I have available right now is 10°.

There may be some other blocks which can hold a razor blade better, and I’m sure there are other expensive devices which can do more angles and possibly hold the blade completely sturdy, and if anybody knows of better devices, please let me know.

I am still a novice in razor blade sharpening and razor blade sharpening is more of a curiosity to me, then a necessity. I already own over a thousand blades and the number still seems to rise. In the long run, sharpening DE blades probably won’t even save money Because the sharpening tools cost money as well. Most people are probably better off just honing their blades in a glass cup and tossing the blade once the blade needs a more serious sharpening. yet for those of us that are a little more environmentally conscious and like to avoid planned obsolescence, or if they just want a little more control over their blade’s edge, they may be interested in re-sharpening their blades. Anyway, I would love to hear if anybody has better, or other methods for sharpening DE blades.
I applaud your effort. Just because we can afford to throw something out doesn't mean we should.
 
I have sharpened and reused GEM blades with success. I never bothered sharpening DE blades because they are too flexible. DE blades were designed to be disposable in the first place by King Camp Gillette in 1895.
 
Thanks for the detailed advice contained in the OP. I've just started glass stropping and it seems to work - certainly better than my first attempt on a leather strop which made the blade worse. Glass stropping is inexpensive and easy, and as you say likely to be adequate for most shavers. Even with only minimal stropping some members of the Excalibur Club have reported a 100 or more quality shaves on a single good-steel blade.
 
Thanks for the detailed advice contained in the OP. I've just started glass stropping and it seems to work - certainly better than my first attempt on a leather strop which made the blade worse. Glass stropping is inexpensive and easy, and as you say likely to be adequate for most shavers. Even with only minimal stropping some members of the Excalibur Club have reported a 100 or more quality shaves on a single good-steel blade.
I’m right there with you. Every method I’ve tried before the glass cup only dulled the edge of the thin DE blades further (I have not tried vintage tools). When I saw this glass cup trick mention in another thread in this forum, I instantly had a good feeling about glass cup stropping. When a previous dull blade cleanly cut through paper with only 45 seconds of cup time, I was like, wow, this really works. It’s great how a trick over 50 years old is still so affective today. This glass cup stopping trick survived the transition from blades that were up to 0.012in thick to the modern blades that are usually 0.004in or under thick.

I’m thinking, if someone wants to get a 100+ shaves from one blade with only minimal stropping and no sharpening, a blade that bends without chipping may be better than blades that have a failure point of chipping. Perhaps @helicopter could take some close-up photos and sharpness comparison measurements of a used blade he just finished testing, then compare them to the same blade after stropping it. Of course, another closeup and another sharpness measure would be in order.
 
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My time isn't worth much, but it's gotta to be worth more than the time it would take to sharpen a DE blade vs throwing in a new one.

Not to mention, the only time I handle the blade is to change it. I'm not handling them any more than needed.
For now, I already gave up on sharpening thin DE blades. But I think spending 30 seconds to get a great shave every time is worth it. You know some blades shave better on the second shave. Maybe some people like to use their face as a strop and throw away their best shave afterwards. Others enjoy a great shave every shave while keeping their face feeling good. Yes, you can get some blades that shave best on the first shave, but then you are missing out on many of the best blades.
 
I have sharpened and reused GEM blades with success. I never bothered sharpening DE blades because they are too flexible. DE blades were designed to be disposable in the first place by King Camp Gillette in 1895.
In theory, you can sharpen the carbon steel blades.
 
In theory, you can sharpen the carbon steel blades.
Yes, the thicker DE blades are easier to sharpen, and I just sharpened a thin DE blade with my rolling sharpener. It’s funny how a solution sometimes comes after I stop thinking about the issue. I paper tested a random blade and noticed one side was sharp and the other side less sharp. Next, I sharpened the dull side of this blade by hooking half the blade through a small door hinge and attaching the blade with the door hinge onto the sharpener. The door hinge held the thin flexible blade in place while giving the blade support. I put a 10-degree bevel on the blade and the blade then went through the paper like butter.

So, just for the record, it’s not Impossible to re-sharpen a modern DE blade. Even though the DE blades are thin and they may make the metal brittle while putting the Teflon coating on.
 
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