I used the gear as in the above photo. I used a fresh Gillette Platinum on the advice of @ivan_101 who knows about these things.
It's a solid and quite weighty razor, heavier than the 195, and actually makes the 195 feel svelte. Balance is actually excellent, with the short handle being the perfect length for my tastes. I had absolutely no issues with grip or slippage. In fact it feels very secure in the wet hand.
Loading it up is very straightforward, a simple 2 piece mechanism as are several Merkur models I believe. The long threaded top cap immediately grabs the tightening/adjusting knob assembly. The mechanism is rather unfamiliar to me as I am rather used to flashy Cadillac TTO's from the New World, but this Progress has some ingenious and endearing features. It feels like you can fix it in the field, or indeed the bathroom in an emergency. It initially felt a bit ponderous like those late 50's early 60's Mercedes (not that I've had one) but it is suprisingly and nicely nimble and responsive in use.
I put it on setting 2 for all 3 passes. I wanted a glimmer of it's performance without going too nuts. Lathered up nicely and away we went.
First pass WTG was a very pleasant suprise. Despite the odd shaped head, it's amazingly easy to find the right angle. Much more intuitive than many vintages I have used. There was blade feel, a pleasant amount. I was a bit worried about the upper lip area, but it was decisive but gentle. The word 'gentle' did come up a lot in my thoughts as I proceeded.
But it was not messing about on my wiry 2.5 day growth. First WTG pass was absolutely faultless. The shape of the head seems to facilitate work in difficult/tight corners and angles, the blade just slipping by, doing it's work. The huge moustache shaped lather channels really keeps the head clean also, which was a great plus in rinsing.
Second XTG pass was equally fun. It just mowed everything down with a really satisfying 'sweesh,sweesh' sound. Really nice soundtrack with the Progress! Anyway, second pass and I was done really.
Third and final ATG pass I thought about switching down to 1, but I kept it on 2. A bit daring of me I know, but seriously by now the razor had bonded with me (I was not attempting a last minute repair with super glue no) but I was getting a real affection for it plus an odd sense of confidence. That rarely happens so fast with me, but this Progress is a friendly character. Anyway the sweeshing sound kept up, meaning it was working to the end. The final ATG moustache pass (straight up) was a dream.
Anyway, an excellent BBS 3 passer with an amazingly versatile razor with masses of aggression if required, but a nimble subtlety and even grace which belies it's looks and higher settings aggression.
I would be quite happy to take this razor up to 3-4 next time, the learning curve seems very flat.
No nicks, no weepers. For me the Progress is a keeper, and a star!
If you don't already have one, and to those who have not experienced the 500, I would highly recommend this classic.
Many of the regulars on B&B cut their teeth on the Progress, and I hope this brought back some familiar and happy memories.
A great vintage and modern. 10/10
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could wish for. It can be 'clocked' twice round the dial, giving a setting of 10.
