Elliot's Journal

[Elliot]

Shave #4

Razor: GEM Push Button
Blade: Personna GEM Coated and Wrapped
Brush: Semogue OC Mistura, Cherry Wood
Soap: MDC Vetyver
After: Ariana & Evans Shave Serum, Sandalwood

It's still quite early in my journey with safety razors, but my second GEM shave was, while better than the first, still not as comfortable as the Henson or Superslant. Of the four shaves, the two GEMs rank at the bottom in terms of comfort.

This razor did feel, though I don't have a big sample size of course, milder than the Damaskeene. I haven't weighed them, but I am guessing it's lighter as well, considering the handle isn't 100% metal. For my cheeks, I did two passes, both WTG. Results were quite impressive, even BBS. For the neck, I did my usual two passes: One WTG and one XTG. The first pass was comfortable, and I could feel my hopes rising. I didn't "feel" like things weren't going well on the XTG pass, but the neck is definitely warm and has a little irritation. By no means a lot, but it's noticeable. I still have two other GEMs waiting to take their maiden voyage, but even after that, I know it is FAR too early to sink into generalizations. A number of factors, such as technique, familiarity with any one tool and other variables need smoothing out, which only happens over time.

Onto the rest of the players in today's game.

The brush was nice. Oddly enough, while I can say I legitimately like the more scratchy boar, I don't necessarily like it more than the softer badger. I enjoy them both. Perhaps over time, I will get so in-tune with my routine that I will be able to make game-day calls on to what type of experience I feel like. I imagine that's inevitable to some degree. Again, multiple variables make the bell curve pretty tough to trust at this juncture.

The soap was nice. It's the best lather I have gotten in my four safety razor shaves. I am not sure if this is to be credited explicitly to the soap, as I don't think I have "bad" soaps, per se, anywhere in my cabinet. But, after an initial attempt, I went back in for a second load, which leads me to believe I am chronically underestimating the amount of soap required for the voluptuous lather I seek.

Perhaps the biggest roller-coaster ride of today's outing was the post shave serum from Ariana & Evans. At first exiting the bottle, I felt elated at the thick, weighty texture. For better or for worse, warranted or unwarranted, my mind associates this type of texture with a soothing experience. That said, upon applying, it really thinned out and spread. What felt like a very conservative amount suddenly became excess. Not a problem, per se, but just an interesting shift mid-experience. The roller coaster came full circle as once a small sting, just on the neck ofc, subsided, I did feel that soothing "ah" that I desire from my after shave balms.

As the shave was wearing on, I had DCS in my mind (see, I'm paying attention). Writing this 30-ish minutes after the shave, I am not sure. It wasn't NOT comfortable, but it wasn't the completely comfortable experience of the Henson. Although, looking back with just a few more shaves under my belt, my mind has created a narrative that the Henson was almost so easy it was boring.

--

Thanks to all for following along. I appreciate your feedback and guidance immensely. While I am not sure I even qualify as a neophyte in this realm, there are others where I am much more seasoned. Examples would include coffee/espresso, handmade, ultra high-performance kitchen knives (including hand sharpening and Japanese natural stones), cooking of various types (including sushi at an "elite" level if in the non-professional cohort) and pissing off one's wife. If I may be useful to you, don't hesitate.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

I’ve never used one but they say GEM razors are quite different and you have to shave very shallow, so the blade is as close to parallel with your skin as you can get it. Kinda like you would shave with a straight razor. Not sure if you’re doing that or not, but try using a much shallower angle and see if it feels better.

 

[thombrogan]

A good thread on obtaining magic from GEM-blade razors (something I need to re-read nearly every evening along with the general shaving guide from @AimlessWanderer ):

Micromatic OC and it's rise to stardom...with the help of an old friend.

I've had the MMOC for a couple of years and used it off and on. I didn't have a problem getting a BBS shave from it, but it wasn't the smoothest shave. About a week ago, I received a Valet VC4. The first shave was not exactly the smoothest, but I was able to BBS my face with it. Started my head...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[flask28]

That was a very enjoyable writeup! I don't have much balm experience and I found your experience with A&E very interesting to follow.

 

[Elliot]

Shave #5:

Razor: Gillette Pre-War Tech Fat Handle, replated by Chris Spencer of Back Roads Gold
Blade: Personna Red
Brush: Old stock Century
Soap: La savonniere du moulin
After: Lucky Tiger

This was my second most comfortable safety razor shave to date, behind my first with the Henson. Let's break down the tape.

First, I am wondering if I have shot myself in the foot thus far with using a different blade in my three NON-GEM shaves. Perhaps I should have removed that as yet another variable and it was just as much about the Astra as it was the Henson that created my most comfortable safety razor shave to date. I digress.

The Gillette was easy to work with and, short of a tiny nick that seems to be cause more by a skin blemish than anything else, caused very little irritation on the neck, which is not the norm. As is typical for me, two passes: One WTG and one XTG. Result is nearly BBS on the cheek and all I could ever want. This is a recurring theme since the switch to safety razors. For my neck, I also went with the same two passes and results were again quite typical: presence of significant when running a finger ATG but not WTG. Also fine, though I do think a closer shave would be nice. I don't push it as to not cause more irritation early in my journey. For a reason I cannot fathom, I wonder if more modern razors, which seem to almost always have longer handles, are more my preference simply for that reason. I am not a tall man, I do not have big hands and I am shaving a limited area, so I don't see logic in the longer handle preference, but it's there nonetheless.

The brush was acquired on this forum in 2020 iirc and is nice. It has almost no backbone, but I don't mind it too much. Not a favorite, not one for the rubbish bin.

The soap is lovely. This may be my favorite soap and is capable of creating a beautiful lather with little effort. I am a person that prefers variety in life, but if I was the type to have just a couple, or even one type of soap, this would be on the list.

A first time using Lucky Tiger aftershave, this was interesting. I like thicker post-shave treatments as a rule, but this was refreshing and not in an alcohol-driven manner. I don't find those refreshing.

All in all, a comfortable shave.

As tends to happen, I am immediately transported to my next shave and the decisions of what to use. I still have a few razors that I've yet to try: Two GEMs, a Schick injector and the BB Ti. My initial plan is to use the GEM Jr. After that, I would have used three GEMs: The Damaskeene, Push Button and Jr. A MM Clog-Pruf would be left in that department before I start to decide if GEMs are for me or not for me. Current leaning is the latter, but I try to remain open minded. I still like the idea of a single-edged razor and find myself tempted to explore the AC format to see if that jives with me more than GEMs. I am sure my willpower to not order something won't endure. It never does.

Of the razors I have tried, I think there's a decent chance that only the Henson remains over time. But, it's surely more about me figuring out the act rather than considering the hardware at this juncture. Nonetheless, one can't help but postulate.

 

[Elliot]

Shave #6:

Razor: GEM Junior, replated by Chris Spencer of Back Roads Gold
Blade: Personna GEM Coated and Wrapped
Brush: AOS Silvertip (older)
Soap: Ariana & Evans Asian Plum
After: Antica Barbieria Colla Apricot Hull

Welp, I wish I was bringing a more positive GEM experience, but alas, this was the worst yet :/

I don't believe I can necessarily blame the razor (never really should), as I made an attempt to use a more shallow blade angle. This resulted in more blade feel, which I actually enjoyed for feedback purposes, but more irritation and nicks. I got my first cheek nick in years and my neck has 4-5. Two passes, both WTG, for all areas. Cheeks are BBS and neck is not close at all. But, it's red and not looking great.

I find myself still in the same place. I really like the single-edge experience. Something about it. Yet, three GEMs have been used, all supposedly on the milder side of the spectrum, and haven't enjoyed any of them. Now, as I loaded them all at the same time, there could be something said about each blade being a first use, so I am cognizant of that. Still, I find myself more and more interested in ordering an X1 or Vector to continue the single edge experience but in a larger, weightier and not GEM format. And, of course, I know technique still needs a lot of work

The brush is a story. In my early adulthood (20-24), I found myself a little more successful in business than I should have been. The details aren't important, but I found myself in an Art of Shaving store at a mall in Los Angeles and being talked into everything. I probably spent more than $500 that day on a razor, stand, brush, soap, etc. My understanding is that a lot of the product from that joint is overpriced and marketing heavy, but I was a kid, I didn't care. Somehow, through the years, which have included countless moves, starts and stops of wet shaving and lord knows what else, the brush endures. It's soft, almost too soft and flimsy, but has been around. For that alone, I keep it. Well, and it's silly, but I think it cost me at the time what a Simpson costs. I enjoy it for nostalgia.

First time using this soap, just received last week, and it was nice. It made a rather thick lather and I enjoyed the scent.

The aftershave is my favorite to date. I've used it off and on for several years and just enjoy everything about it, from the texture to the scent.

Only a few unused razors remain at this point. The Schick injector doesn't really excite me, so there's a good chance the next shave is a quantum leap and I go with the BB Ti. Either that or I give the last unused GEM, the clog-pruf, a run.

 

[thombrogan]

Do you have a loupe for inspecting honing to see if your blade has a janky, mangling edge?

The problem could be as easy as too much pressure (that or it could be the blade has a bad edge. Or something else is irritating your skin and the ultimate fault is still too much pressure, but the non-blade irritation has made the threshold ridiculously low. Had a soap that made my skin bleed during lathering so it was too much pressure a minute or two before touching the razor.

Wishing you comfort and success on your next shaves.

 

[Elliot]

I don't! Perhaps something to look into.

 

[thombrogan]

If you any plastic bottle caps or a plastic-barreled pen, you could lightly draw the edge over the plastic. If it doesn’t effortlessly glide, it might not be the edge your face craves.

Mentioned the other thing because, well, sharpening junky.

 

[Elliot]

Shave #7

Razor: Blackland Blackbrid Ti
Blade: Astra SP
Brush: Rudy Vey Muhle synthetic
Pre: Proraso white pre
Soap: B&M Lavender
After: Alum
Post: SV Felce Aromatica

Shave #7 went pretty well! Since I am still trying so much, it's very tough to know what I should credit the experience with. About 30m after the shave, my neck definitely feels "warm" in a few spots, but still a success in my mind. The alum could be responsible for the warmth at some level.

Starting with the razor, the Blackbird feels lovely in hand and is something I am excited to get to know more. Overall, I think I like the longer handles often seen in the newer razors as compared to the GEMs and old Gillette I have. Another thing I am wondering about this shave is it's the second time I am using an Astra SP, which has a lovely reputation around here. Not the same blade as the first go around, as that's loaded in my Henson, but still, perhaps there's a reason it is such a highly-recommended blade.

Back to the BB. It felt stalwart, but with very limited blade feel. Typical two passes (WTG, XTG) resulted in BBS on the cheeks and a serviceable closeness on the neck. I have not gone ATG since my first shave with the Henson, as I am more interested in gaining experience than smoothness that my life by no means requires. Very little pressure but candidly, I think mindfulness while I shave is still something I need to work on. I worry I am not in-sync with my face as much as would be helpful. I digress.

I am not sure if the Proraso preshave was a game changer or anything, but it's worth the extra step and I will continue to gauge its impact over time. The brush, however, a triumph. It's not my first time using a brush by Rudy (I have three now), but the handle was comfortable and it whipped up a great lather with little effort. Eventually, I hope to trim down on a lot of things in my cabinet. I don't think I will ever be a one or two brush type of guy, but no matter how many stay, this will be one of them.

The post was OK. It's a splash, which I typically don't love. Next time I use a splash, I may follow straight away with a balm as well, so two aftershaves. As it stands today, I applied a little of my Brickell face moisturizer for that soothing feeling I seem to crave.

A Schick injector and GEM clog-pruf are the only remaining razors I haven't used, though there is one on the way .

I think the last GEM will get its chance on Monday and, I am somewhat determined to try all the GEMs a few times to see which ones (or maybe just one) stay behind over time.

Have a lovely weekend, chaps.

 

[Elliot]

If you any plastic bottle caps or a plastic-barreled pen, you could lightly draw the edge over the plastic. If it doesn’t effortlessly glide, it might not be the edge your face craves.

Mentioned the other thing because, well, sharpening junky.

Think I’m gonna order a loupe. Any recommendation on magnification level? Probably gonna see about trying straight honing again because why the hell not.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

The Belomo Triplet 10x loupe is legendary. Not expensive, fantastic optics, good depth of field which makes it very usable. I find anything much beyond 10x magnification becomes hard to use.

 

[Elliot]

The Belomo Triplet 10x loupe is legendary. Not expensive, fantastic optics, good depth of field which makes it very usable. I find anything much beyond 10x magnification becomes hard to use.

Thank you, sir!

 

[thombrogan]

Glad @Mr. Shavington xhi,Ed in. I have a loupe, but am not enough of an optics person to say if it’s the one.

 

[Phoenixkh]

The Belomo Triplet 10x loupe is legendary. Not expensive, fantastic optics, good depth of field which makes it very usable. I find anything much beyond 10x magnification becomes hard to use.

Thanks... I just ordered one.. the Amazon reviews included several people who had purchased less expensive ones.. and much preferred the optics in the BeLomo.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

Thanks... I just ordered one.. the Amazon reviews included several people who had purchased less expensive ones.. and much preferred the optics in the BeLomo.

Yes, as I understand it’s the standard loupe used by professional geologists, diamond merchants, etc. The optics are superior to pretty much anything else and it’s just a renowned achromatic triple-lens design developed in Soviet-era Belarus. Nobody really made anything better since, but it’s great value. In practical terms it allows you to view things without having the lens almost against the object, and it’s easier to keep in focus when you hand hold it.

I’ve had one for years. It comes with a handy leather case and some spare screws in case the pivot loosens over time and you lose the screws. They say you can just superglue the screws in if you get that, but mine has never loosened any. It’s solidly built and the standard for rigorous field use.

 

[Phoenixkh]

Yes, as I understand it’s the standard loupe used by professional geologists, diamond merchants, etc. The optics are superior to pretty much anything else and it’s just a renowned achromatic triple-lens design developed in Soviet-era Belarus. Nobody really made anything better since, but it’s great value. In practical terms it allows you to view things without having the lens almost against the object, and it’s easier to keep in focus when you hand hold it.

I’ve had one for years. It comes with a handy leather case and some spare screws in case the pivot loosens over time and you lose the screws. They say you can just superglue the screws in if you get that, but mine has never loosened any. It’s solidly built and the standard for rigorous field use.

My wife loves jewelry.... I tend to borrow the jeweler's eye loop.. but I'd rather have my own.. one I know is dependable. I have lighted ones to view my camera sensors for cleaning. I've tried them for razor blades... they work well.. but are not as small and easy to carry along with you.

 

[Elliot]

Just ordered one as well! Thanks, @Mr. Shavington.

 

[flask28]

Yes, as I understand it’s the standard loupe used by professional geologists, diamond merchants, etc. The optics are superior to pretty much anything else and it’s just a renowned achromatic triple-lens design developed in Soviet-era Belarus. Nobody really made anything better since, but it’s great value. In practical terms it allows you to view things without having the lens almost against the object, and it’s easier to keep in focus when you hand hold it.

I’ve had one for years. It comes with a handy leather case and some spare screws in case the pivot loosens over time and you lose the screws. They say you can just superglue the screws in if you get that, but mine has never loosened any. It’s solidly built and the standard for rigorous field use.

Purchased.

Thanks for the suggestion @Mr. Shavington!

 

[Elliot]

Couple days removed (tentatively scheduled to shave tomorrow) and the BB Ti really was a nice experience. It has me thinking about the efficiency vs. mildness debate.

I don’t believe the BB is known as a mild razor. Yet I didn’t enjoy the Gillette pre-war tech or any of the GEMs nearly as much.

Perhaps my attention should be shifted to consider other razors that aren’t necessarily for the mild crowd. I did, after all, shave with a straight for several years. Now, I can’t say it was always easy… but still.