Moved on to ATG Single Pass with RazoRock Hawk V3OC and then RazoRock BBS and they’re even better at this with my limited skill set. The Hawk did a better job, but the BBS is more comfortable.
Moved on to ATG Single Pass with RazoRock Hawk V3OC and then RazoRock BBS and they’re even better at this with my limited skill set. The Hawk did a better job, but the BBS is more comfortable.
Are you doing a single ATG pass and then a cleanup pass, or one single pass and done?
I'm kinda lazy with the skin stretching, so reducing my shaves to a single pass seems possible if I put more effort into it.
Usually a single pass and a little cleanup, but will go for one pass and swear vengeance on the stragglers on the next shave...
@Eben Stone , I got better at that first method (very light touch) using a tip from @GAW9576
If the razor pushes into the skin at all, it’s too much pressure.
With that, I was able to hold my GEM Micromatic Open Comb with a grip as light as @JoWolf describes without the blade following the ATG pattern directly into my face like when I normally use a light grip.
Usually a single pass and a little cleanup, but will go for one pass and swear vengeance on the stragglers on the next shave.
With placing the cap on slickly lathered, skin, I’m finding external skin stretching isn’t really needed. Get the edge parallel to your hair and just the lightest ‘correction’ raises skin/lowers the razor and seems to slightly lift the hair up from the follicles to be cut clean ATG.
At and below my jawline is a hard-to-track grain pattern. Like it all flows towards the Adam’s apple so some if N-S, E-W, S-N, W-E with diagonals added for good measure. To deal with that, I usually make mostly-ATG cross-hatch/zig-zag little strokes.
Just recently started getting the hang of using a Micromatic and it can allow for long, smooth, repeated strokes over the same area until the hair is gone, but that’s also very easy for a heavy-handed person like me to mess up and get a little alum sting or a lot worse.
The two ways that seem to get me smoothest with the least boo-boos are so similar, yet somehow mutually exclusive:
1. Skin stretching (I use a damp face cloth and some people put alum on their finger tips and there’s also chin tilting, cheek puffing, and lip stretching as needed), shallow ATG over most areas, and so light a touch the cap, comb, or side of the blade is so very barely touching the skin. If the blade has any hesitation as it cuts, reposition it so it cuts cleanly with no noticeable effort.
That’s the one to master if you’re ever even just thinking of moving on to a straight razor or barber razor and I haven’t mastered it. Not even close.
Not all SR users use that extreme I’m mentioning, but I’m assuming you have it in your head that starting a shave WTG or XTG is throwing in the towel. Projection on my part.
2. Very mild skin stretching (tilting one’s head or stretching lips or puffing cheeks to take up some of the slack), shallow ATG over most areas, and light touch, but not so light that the cap, comb, or side of blade feels like a piece of feather down barely tickling above the skin. The cap will sink slightly into your skin and glide your blade ever forward into your whiskers (or the back of your chin if you don’t point skyward shaving between it and your Adam’s apple).
For further research on method 1, please read this and apply it to ATG shaving.
For further research on method 2, please read this and that and apply them to ATG-only shaving.
EDIT - since I’m much newer on not scraping myself raw than I should, may I please strongly suggest smarter, more successful people?
@JoWolf @Esox @jmudrick @rabidus all excel at ATG-only safety razor shaving and @camoloc has even done it with his straight razors
I didn’t do any skin stretching with DE shaves to speak of, and Single Pass ATG shaves were comfortable but also required clean ups to achieve BBS shaves. Now learning SR’s Skin Stretching a must no options. So the stretching also bled into the ATG DE shave reducing clean up strokes. Less strokes. More comfort. More efficiency.2. Are you doing a single ATG pass and then a cleanup pass, or one single pass and done? I'm kinda lazy with the skin stretching, so reducing my shaves to a single pass seems possible if I put more effort into it.
The sharpest blade will cut the most whiskers with the fewest strokes. Use the sharpest blade you can use.Technically I go about 5 passes over my jawline if I count the cleanup passes.
Perfect Thom. I am on that stretch learning curve with the straights. All the same dynamics in play with the apex of the beveled edged blade of the straight. Light Touch.1. Skin stretching (I use a damp face cloth and some people put alum on their finger tips and there’s also chin tilting, cheek puffing, and lip stretching as needed), shallow ATG over most areas, and so light a touch the cap, comb, or side of the blade is so very barely touching the skin
If the adjustments do not cut smooth and clean. Do not try to push a dull blade. Use a sharp blade. I use a single use Feather in my DE razor. it’s always the sharpest it can be. I must be very cognizant of my edge sharpness on the straights. I examine the blade with a 10x loupe before and after the shave. Blade maintenance is required for good sharpness and peak performance. A sharp blade is one of the easiest improvements to any shave.If the blade has any hesitation as it cuts, reposition it so it cuts cleanly with no noticeable effort.
Our modern basic wet shave is based on a three pass WTG-XTG-ATG, beard reduction. If you have accomplished this shave to consistent BBS results. No reason why you should not look for short cuts, less passes, etc. all changes dependent upon on your personal shave. All basic fundamentals are present in all good shaves. Variations are only possible if fundamentals are respected.Not all SR users use that extreme I’m mentioning, but I’m assuming you have it in your head that starting a shave WTG or XTG is throwing in the towel. Projection on my part.
I examine the blade with a 10x loupe before and after the shave. Blade maintenance is required for good sharpness and peak performance.
If the adjustments do not cut smooth and clean. Do not try to push a dull blade. Use a sharp blade.
A sharp blade is one of the easiest improvements to any shave.
All basic fundamentals are present in all good shaves. Variations are only possible if fundamentals are respected.
In other words looking for short cuts and improvements without establishing the basic shave. Is in fact the long way around.
Regardless of what razor you use. All parts of the shave are designed to support and enable the apex of the edge you are using.Does that apply to SR or DE or both? If DE, I'm very curious to know what you do for maintenance.
From pre shave too post shave. The events in a shave are not much different than links in a chain. Strong chains do not have weak links.Used an Ikon X3 and Personna Platinum for ASP + cleanup.
Not quite BBS, but close. Not quite comfortable, but close.
Two passes + cleanup works better for now with this setup, but it’s smooth either way.
Like every style of whisker removal, more hassle with hydration equals less hassle with shaving.
I believe I’m on the verge of adequacy.
Prep: hot shower
Lather: ARKO! applied as an extra thin, watery ghost-lather for main pass and more of the same squeezed from bristles for cleanup
Razor: whatever as long as it cuts your whiskers
Technique: Act like you’re trying to win a contest for lightest touch ever.
I did alright with it and it kept my mind able to focus without being too self conscious. Now to add skin stretching because I got fat and older than 40 before losing weight.
From electrics to Kamisori “Act like you’re trying to win a contest for lightest touch ever.” Well said Thom.Technique: Act like you’re trying to win a contest for lightest touch ever.