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Best Fast Cutting Rehab Stone | Faster Than Chosera 1K

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
What fast cutting rehab stone should I buy?

I've only just very recently come to understand that many of the razors I've purchased on eBay are more rehab projects than just razors which need to be honed. Regardless of what the vendor said about them if the razor has edge problems - including chips which require magnification to be seen - it's a rehab project.

According to what I've read chips should be removed by bread-knifing. That, of course, means the bevel has to be laboriously reset because it is now a ⊐ instead of a >. Same with a frown.

None of my stones are faster than my Chosera 1K. I've done rehab to edges - meaning with great difficulty and way too much time investment I've removed chips - but no more. At least no more with the Chosera 1K.

I'm going to get myself a faster rehab stone. Probably a Chosera 400 (0.4K). Mostly that's because from the reading I've done I've run across a few gentlemen who like them. One, Keith @Gamma, said he liked the Chosera 400 more than the Chosera 600. I'm open to considering any stone but am familiar with the Chosera 1K. I've never used diamond stones and am confused about them so I wouldn't have a clue which one of them to buy and don't understand the brands, variations, etc. or the nomenclature of the diamond stones.

Any reason not to just go with the Chosera 400 (0.4K) for fast rehab early in the process bevel setting before moving to the Chosera 1K?

Happy shaves,

Jim

P.S. Wasn't sure if this thread should be under honing or under restoration.
 
I have a shapton 500 which is pretty speedy. I usually use diamond plates for correction as they don't dish(I use an atoma 400 and 1200, the 1200 is mostly for making slurry on jnats and smoothing the surface) Then I move to stones for bevel precision.
 
The chosera 400 imo is very gummy. Needs constant refreshing with a DMT. I had one and gave it away. The 600 seemed to be faster imo anyway. Fast stone? I have dmts down to 120 grit. 325 is fast for bulk removal. But what I typically do is get close to the edge with the plate and then finish the bevel on the 600. To avoid metal fatigue. Diamond on a plate don't yield. And can cause issues in the low grit.
Edit: I never tried the new Nani pro 400. Maybe they did something else for it. I'm speaking of the chosera(old line 1 inch thick stones) I do have the Nani pro 600 btw.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
There is almost never a reason to breadknife a razor.
I use a worn 600 grit dmt perforated to expedite removal or metal.

Could you describe how you go about it?

I have no point of view about whether bread-knifing is necessary, makes the best sense, or not. I've never bread-knifed a blade. I have read opinions much in favor of bread-knifing blades with chips and/or frowns, and against the practice.

I don't want to bread-knife anything if it's unnecessary.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Could you describe how you go about it?

I have no point of view about whether bread-knifing is necessary, makes the best sense, or not. I've never bread-knifed a blade. I have read opinions much in favor of bread-knifing blades with chips and/or frowns, and against the practice.

I don't want to bread-knife anything if it's unnecessary.

Happy shaves,

Jim


How to go about removing chips?
Most, if not large, merely require some time on a coarse hone to help with the time involved, it just goes much faster.
If you are trying to remove a large chip then I would resort to w/d on a flat surface - holding the spine and moving the razor (held at a 45 degree angle) and sweep the blade on the paper till it was nearly gone. This creates a nice straight edge again but the bevel will be lost.
You will need to completely set a new bevel that will take some time so use a coarse stone again to expedite things then progress as normal to fruition.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
How to go about removing chips?
Most, if not large, merely require some time on a coarse hone to help with the time involved, it just goes much faster.
If you are trying to remove a large chip then I would resort to w/d on a flat surface - holding the spine and moving the razor (held at a 45 degree angle) and sweep the blade on the paper till it was nearly gone. This creates a nice straight edge again but the bevel will be lost.
You will need to completely set a new bevel that will take some time so use a coarse stone again to expedite things then progress as normal to fruition.

Ah, I get it. You're doing what I've been doing but with coarser stones (or w/d).
 
I have breadknived several to even stuff out fast, it does take a long time to set the bevel after. a diamond plat helps. if the edge is truly hideous then I may bread knife it if I like the razor
 
For heavy work, these days I'm inclined to use a worn fine DMT with a taped spine and up-and-down strokes. That or a Bester 500 synth with X strokes. The fine DMT works quickly.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I've ordered a faster stone for rehab work.
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I have a couple of other stones in this series. I read a post by Keith @Gamma talking about this stone. Also the price was about half of what I was considering for the Chosera.
 
I like DMTs best for rehab. My Chosera 600 works OK but I somehow feel like I have more control with a diamond plate. Not sure why.
 
Bread knifing changes the geometry. It may be fine or it may not. On a very very acute bevel it could be useful. But a more obtuse bevel will become even more obtuse and it will likely never feel like its ‘there’. Unless of course you make adjustments to the spine. The only time I really bread knife is to relief the corners of the toe and heel on heavily worn blades.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Bread knifing changes the geometry. It may be fine or it may not. On a very very acute bevel it could be useful. But a more obtuse bevel will become even more obtuse and it will likely never feel like its ‘there’. Unless of course you make adjustments to the spine.

That makes a lot of sense.

The only time I really bread knife is to relief the corners of the toe and heel on heavily worn blades.

I'm not really sure what you mean.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
I've ordered a faster stone for rehab work.
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I have a couple of other stones in this series. I read a post by Keith @Gamma talking about this stone. Also the price was about half of what I was considering for the Chosera.

You’ll probably like it, Shapton are hugely popular in the woodworking world and I’ve never used one that’s not in the top tier for stones at a given particle size.

I like a worn DMT325 for lapping, and for serious bevel work when I’m fed up and decide I’m done f#*%ing around with something. The thing that’s nice about the diamond plates is they don’t care what flavor of steel is on there, you just apply the right pressure and they eat everything at about the same speed. The thing that’s not nice is they’ll make a MASSIVE foil burr if you’re just grinding away on one side, and you can easily overshoot your goal on accident with the deep scratches that you end up working out forever.
 
In the past I've been using 400 grit sandpaper on acylic for damage repair and 1200 grit sandpaper on acrylic for bevel setting.

I'm going to be trying diamond though. I just received an atoma 400 and will be buying an atoma 1200. glue them back to back and I'll have one thing for the bottom work.

my soft ark glued to a black translucent ark should do the rest.
 
In the past I've been using 400 grit sandpaper on acylic for damage repair and 1200 grit sandpaper on acrylic for bevel setting.

I'm going to be trying diamond though. I just received an atoma 400 and will be buying an atoma 1200. glue them back to back and I'll have one thing for the bottom work.

my soft ark glued to a black translucent ark should do the rest.
With those 2 atomas, do you know what's missing? That's right, a jnat :001_005:
 
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