Old wedge, getting better at these re grinds. Still have more work to do on it, but I’m happy how it is turning out.
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What's on your work bench right now?
- Thread starter Luecke2326
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Old wedge, getting better at these re grinds. Still have more work to do on it, but I’m happy how it is turning out.
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What are you grinding with?
Picked up 3 Vintage Cmon barber shears, now on the workbench.
The worst pair of the three, sellers photo,
Restored and honed, same ones as in the second photo(middle) already cleaned up.
Two more but they are in great shape with only minor clean up needed and honing of course.
Single ply tissue sprayed wet then full depth cut and pull away without any tearing.
The worst pair of the three, sellers photo,
Restored and honed, same ones as in the second photo(middle) already cleaned up.
Two more but they are in great shape with only minor clean up needed and honing of course.
Single ply tissue sprayed wet then full depth cut and pull away without any tearing.
Thank you! I sanded both parallel and perpendicular to the edge. I’ve got quite a bit of sanding left to do on it. The blade is still just sanded with the 400. I’m going to hit it with 400 again then work up through 2000 and see how she looks.
For the faces, I have gotten good results wrapping the sandpaper around a synthetic wine cork. Laying the blade on a small wooden block is also useful, especially when your hands get tired.
All three cutting flawlessly,
J. Chadwick
No information on this guy... I am thinking it is a Sheffield from around 1820-1830, but you might disagree, and be right! Some active rust at the pivot, so after a few futile attempts to remove with WD40, I pulled the pin. Glad I did since the rust was on both sides of the tang and on both sides of the pivot pin. The washers weren’t much better. The scales were cracked at the pivot pin and separated as soon as I drilled the pin out. But these were once really nice translucent horn scales, so I glued the pieces back together, polished the scales a bit, removed the rust, and reassembled with the original washers. Still need to hone. Its not a chopper by any means, only 11/16 with a 16.6deg bevel angle, so I am thinking to hone with one layer of tape as it is pretty close to a true wedge. May go back later to work on the blade some more, I like the patina on the tang just fine (what’s left after the rust removal). Note that this razor has no wedge. They built a taper into the ends of the scales and then took advantage of the warp existing in the scales.
Not a work of art by any means, but learned a few things!
No information on this guy... I am thinking it is a Sheffield from around 1820-1830, but you might disagree, and be right! Some active rust at the pivot, so after a few futile attempts to remove with WD40, I pulled the pin. Glad I did since the rust was on both sides of the tang and on both sides of the pivot pin. The washers weren’t much better. The scales were cracked at the pivot pin and separated as soon as I drilled the pin out. But these were once really nice translucent horn scales, so I glued the pieces back together, polished the scales a bit, removed the rust, and reassembled with the original washers. Still need to hone. Its not a chopper by any means, only 11/16 with a 16.6deg bevel angle, so I am thinking to hone with one layer of tape as it is pretty close to a true wedge. May go back later to work on the blade some more, I like the patina on the tang just fine (what’s left after the rust removal). Note that this razor has no wedge. They built a taper into the ends of the scales and then took advantage of the warp existing in the scales.
Not a work of art by any means, but learned a few things!
Decided on a whim to put these on my Dixie blue steel. I thought the scales on it were original when I bought it, but they were not unless acrylic scales were common in the 20s and 30s. I have a friend with a mobile sawmill. I often get off cuts with knots and trunk junctions dirt cheap. You know, wood with figure. $20 got me $200-$300 of figured wood for knife scale blanks and razor scales. If I would ever sell some of it lol, I just let it hang around for future planned projects (that I realize I won’t get to for years).
I stopped polishing/buffing when I got to a point where I felt like high gloss would overpower the figure. I may put it back on the buffing wheel later if I change my mind.
I stopped polishing/buffing when I got to a point where I felt like high gloss would overpower the figure. I may put it back on the buffing wheel later if I change my mind.
I need a little advice. After two months hunting for a 1 inch FBU, I scored this just over 1 inch Wade & Butcher Magnum Bonum near wedge with no barber's notch. Looks a lot like the razor that @Doc226 posted on May 8, right? I assume the scales are original and the blade was made without a barber's notch, but who knows? The monkey tail seems less prominent than a FBU. There is some wear on the spine but not excessive. Below are photos after an initial 20-minute clean-up with steel wool.
I am concerned about the nasty pitting on the front face to the left of the word "Magnum", and on the spine of the back face toward the toe. My plan is to:
I am concerned about the nasty pitting on the front face to the left of the word "Magnum", and on the spine of the back face toward the toe. My plan is to:
- Remove only the pin holding the blade.
- Clean the back face, tang and tail with wet/dry sandpaper and steel wool, starting with 220.
- Try to do the same on the front face while covering the "Magnum Bonum" lettering with Super 88 tape.
- How was the lettering done, what can the lettering withstand, and will the idea of covering the letting with tape work or will the tape just peel off.
- Any ideas for the nasty pitting to the left of "Magnum" on the front face and on the spine of the back face?
I'd give the pens a try, but I'm guessing you'll end up with the W/D. My gut says there may be active rust developing beneath the layer of "pitting". But it will be well worth the effort. Great looking blade!
I decided to just dive in and spent about one hour with 100 grit wet/dry and got the blade largely cleaned up. The deep pitting on the spine of the back face proved to be easier than I thought. I still have some work to do on the spot on the front face using finer sandpaper. Surprisingly, I ended up just free-handing the sanding without the use of any tape over the lettering. I will post a photo after I finish the clean-up.
I have also decided to put my man pants on and disassemble the wedge. It's time for me to learn how to do this.
I have also decided to put my man pants on and disassemble the wedge. It's time for me to learn how to do this.
Hey Frank,
I did use tape to cover etching on a Torrey a few months ago. It held up pretty well during the sanding operation. Wedges are easier to pin than pivots, go for it!
I did use tape to cover etching on a Torrey a few months ago. It held up pretty well during the sanding operation. Wedges are easier to pin than pivots, go for it!
Decided to get going at replacing the old boar knot on this recently acquired Ever Ready H40. First time replacing a knot, so just took my time and went at it. Loaded in some Canadian and American pennies for fun (and weight) in the handle. I’m pleased for my first go at it.
Nice job. May want to post it over in the brush maker subforum. Lots of info as well as brush restoration and maker folks.
Brush Making and Restorations
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This one is fresh off the stones and ready to be put back in service.
Larry
Larry
Here is the 2nd one off the stones. All cleaned and ready for a shave. Both blades were finished on a yellow/green thuri.
Larry
Larry
Wow, those are nicer scales than I am used to seeing on a Japanese razor!
Alright! Finally got something to the honing stage that has been sitting for way too long. The blade is,... well not sure, it says “Bordeaux” and “Renault” on it, guessing mid 19th century. I bought it without scales. Its a heavy beast 7/8 and 57g (blade only) so I was going to put it into some heavier scales I had made, but it wouldn’t fit. Distance from pivot hole to toe was about 0.5” too long. Then I bought another French razor (Lecollier a Nogent), even longer. It had scales but the toe was actually hitting the wedge, so not a good fit. But then I measured and realized that the scales on the 2nd razor were actually big enough for the first razor. So the plan was formed.
Had a few issues, but all simpatico with the situation. I roughed up one scale removing the pivot pin. But the other scale had some letters scratched into it, so I sanded both them both down to make like new. I had to sand off the old wedge, which was too thin for the new blade, but it was chewed up anyway (a previous owner had carved away a bit of the wedge so that the blade would even partially close). Also there were extra holes at the pivot point in the scale (perhaps made by me as I drilled out the pivot pin). But I was able to solve that by stacking #1 washers (obtained from another B&B member) under the #0 washers - overall this looks pretty nice and it covered the extra hole. That forced me to undo the wedge pin to add #1 washers, but by then I had realized that my new wedge was so wide that the blade edge was dropping even with the bottom edge of the scale. So I pulled the pin, took 20-30mil off the wedge and repinned. Now the blade edge stops a clean 2mm short of the scale edge.
Still have lots of room for improvement, but I learned a lot and this is one of my better restores to date!
Had a few issues, but all simpatico with the situation. I roughed up one scale removing the pivot pin. But the other scale had some letters scratched into it, so I sanded both them both down to make like new. I had to sand off the old wedge, which was too thin for the new blade, but it was chewed up anyway (a previous owner had carved away a bit of the wedge so that the blade would even partially close). Also there were extra holes at the pivot point in the scale (perhaps made by me as I drilled out the pivot pin). But I was able to solve that by stacking #1 washers (obtained from another B&B member) under the #0 washers - overall this looks pretty nice and it covered the extra hole. That forced me to undo the wedge pin to add #1 washers, but by then I had realized that my new wedge was so wide that the blade edge was dropping even with the bottom edge of the scale. So I pulled the pin, took 20-30mil off the wedge and repinned. Now the blade edge stops a clean 2mm short of the scale edge.
Still have lots of room for improvement, but I learned a lot and this is one of my better restores to date!
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