It’s the main reason why I purchased it. I kept looking at it and then passing by it and coming back to it because of the scales. They are the original scales to the blade. I hope it shaves as good as it looks, it is my first Japanese razor.Wow, those are nicer scales than I am used to seeing on a Japanese razor!
I have 4 Japanese razors. All are good and two are among my best.It’s the main reason why I purchased it. I kept looking at it and then passing by it and coming back to it because of the scales. They are the original scales to the blade. I hope it shaves as good as it looks, it is my first Japanese razor.
I think that will look sharp. I just started working on a black horn wedge today. I’m using a blank that has too much warp down its length to be used for a scale.Like an idiot I broke the bone scales on my CVH MK No. 22, so today baby is getting a new dress.
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First time working with bone. Smelly stuff when you are working it with power tools.
The picture is after cut out and rough shaping with a Dremel cutting wheel and sanding drums. Still have the hand sanding progression to do then drill, pin, and peen.
I'm thinking maybe a dark horn wedge for contrast?
Hi Frank,My first time removing plastic scales and first real screwup! After filing the mushroom head and washer off this Dorko 43, I tried to gently pry the scales apart using a small screwdriver and BAM! My first thought was to reach out to someone about a rescaling but then I realized that perhaps this was a message from the gods of vintage straight razor restoration that I need to learn how to make scales, so that's the plan. I think I will start with 1/8 inch sheets of black and white acrylic using hand tools, and see where things go. I even managed to put a hairline fracture (toxic inclusion) in the top scale.
In the meantime, should I try to epoxy or superglue the cracked scales or are they just toast?
I should add that after cracking the scales, I did successfully remove the remaining pins by gently tapping them out with a long 1/16 inch punch. The pins were way tighter than I expected. Turns out I could have just cleaned up the blade without removing it from the scales. Too late now. I can also see the value in having a small drill press. And no more screw drivers anywhere near my razors.
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After getting a few Sheffield near wedges, I thought it would be fun to get a post WWII near wedge, and then I found this Dorko 43. The good news is that I did get the blade cleaned up. There was a lot of pitting on the top of the blade above the spine, and more than I wanted on the faces, so I sacrificed the etching for a clean look. I don't see this razor in the trophy case.
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After the wet/dry sandpaper, steel wool and Mothers polish.
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Busted at the pivot pin is probably the worst spot possible due to the pressure of the pivot pin to hold the razor closed and flex opening and closing. You might be able to get away repairing but probably better off with new scales. If unsure, ask yourself this question: Would you rather fix the old scales and OK if they break again while repinning or using and you have to do it again, or are you only wanting to do this once?In the meantime, should I try to epoxy or superglue the cracked scales or are they just toast?