I had already been admiring the handles. Well chosen and beautifully executed.
What did you hone today? -Knife and tool edition
- Thread starter Legion
- Start date
I wouldn't do that with bare feet. Don't ask me how I know.On a visit to my son to see my new grandson.They warned me that they would just be hanging out since the new baby was taking all their attention. On an off chance I decided to pack a Norton #1 grade Washita, thinking that they might appreciate getting their knives sharpened. It was a good guess. My daughter-in-law used to be a professional chef, and she had actually been thinking about sending the knives out. They were all in pretty good shape and the Washita took care of them all pretty quickly. I just used Safflower oil since that was what was available. Shout out to @cotedupy - I watched one of his YouTube videos before starting to make sure I was in the right frame of mind for the task.
View attachment 1733406
Ta!
TBH I use all sorts of oils, as long as it's not a 'drying' oil it should work fine. In this instance I was actually using straight mineral oil, though for preference I'd go something a little thinner: vegetable oil, or 3 in 1 / WD40.
Henckels 7"
- Thread starter
- #285
Looks good. Do you ever throw some pins in there, or you find epoxy is enough?
Victroinox petty
Shapton 500 to Chosera 1K
Shapton 500 to Chosera 1K
- Thread starter
- #288
Little mother of pearl antique pen knife. Finished with a translucent Ark, just in case… someone wanted to do eye surgery with it, or something. Impractically sharp. But why not.
Playing with a recently acquired Rosy Red Washita on a Dexter Russel filleting knife. The RRW was noticeably quicker than the other Washita's that are in the stable. Hard to go past these old Washita's on the Kitchen cuttlery, for me, they give the perfect balance of keenness and bite.
- Thread starter
- #290
I saw that one on the knife forum. A heck of a score. I was kicking myself for missing it.
Yeah, those fast Washita are good for stainless knives. Actually, so are a lot of soft Arks, for that matter. I was slicing a tomato up today with a knife I just honed on a soft, and it left me thinking, why am I refining kitchen blades after this? The tooth is perfect.
This one was easy to miss, this is the Ebay pic and was pretty sure it was going to be a Sic or India or similar. The yellow ding on the left corner gave a little clue, however the perfectly squared edges is very Sic/India like.
Haven't had a crack on a soft ark yet, but if they perform in a similar way to a good old Washita, then they will be great as well.
The only way that I can reproduce a Washita edge on a kitchen knife using modern synthetic stones is by progressing down to about 3-5000 grit, then a handful of very light passes on a 1000 grit stone to get the toothy bite. Too much effort.
For what its worth, I am finding that the really old Washitas are the best ones, and this RR is clearly the best one to date. So good that I tried to remove the label - failed, it was very fragile - so just dropped it label and all into the degreaser. It's now a user only stone, no collectors piece.
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- #292
Aww! The label got melted? That's a shame. I melted the side label on a Nortan #1, and that hurt me bad enough. Oh well, I suppose it doesn't matter if you plan on keeping it, which it sounds like you are.
Back in the day the line between what we now would call a soft Ark, and what they called a Washita is kind of blurry. But the individual stones performance is what matters, I guess. I've never had a labeled RRW, but have always been curious how they compare in practice to all the other Arks that were available over the years. Good to know that they are out there in the Australian wild somewhere for the hunting.
Touchup of the workhorses, soft & hard Ark
Touchup on the Bestech, cleanup and putting a half decent edge on that tiny 14.00 Chinese Rough Rider Backlock (440B, fake tortoise scales). Thank you @HoosierTrooper for bringing this brand to my attention.
Soft Ark and my small Belgian Blue
Soft Ark and my small Belgian Blue
Glad you tried one! Rough Ryder offers an amazing array of patterns and colors at remarkable prices.
How is their carbon steel? I couldn’t find a Backlock design with a carbon blade.
The Half Hawk I have is T10, which is considered high carbon from what I’ve read, is very sharp. I haven’t used it enough to reshaparpen it yet though.
Recieved the penrhiw hone from the saint sue auction. It was plucked straight from the Welsh countryside by @cotedupy and per his recommendation I started on it with a thin oil. In my case I used wd40.
Substantially faster than I expected, and it puts a nice slightly toothy edge on my cutlery.
I touched up some of my blue #2 carbon steel knives today.
Substantially faster than I expected, and it puts a nice slightly toothy edge on my cutlery.
I touched up some of my blue #2 carbon steel knives today.
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- #299
That's cool. I really like the bit I have.
Their carbon steel is fine, but available in very few of their models. I bought a couple of their whittling-appropriate knives in carbon.
I thinned the edges, brought them to whittling sharp, and polished on a green pasted bench strop. I'm sure it is not the"best" steel for whittling, but any whittling knife will see the extra fine hone and the strop frequently, no matter how expensive the knife steel is.
I have an RR sowbelly stockman in the fake tortoise. It is a regular in my pocket. I like to avoid the 'R' stamped bolsters. The 440 stainless is fine for an all-purpose EDC.
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