first Gold Dollar 66 experiment - tell me everything

[javast]

If you have an artist club style razor you should be able to at least come quite close in cutting efficiency.

Apologies, I didn't quite understand your comment - could you elaborate?

 

[Herrenberg]

I have now managed to hone three separate razors to a degree I feel good shaving with, however, I suspect that I should be able to do better.

Oh, yes. The shaves will improve for quite a while yet. Then there will be the frontier of consistency: getting your best-shaving edge every time, something I am still improving on and not near success.

Glad things are going well.

 

[JPO]

Apologies, I didn't quite understand your comment - could you elaborate?

I just meant that you can use something like a shavette to compare your straight razor edge to. If I test a new edge, if it is tugging, to rule out lather quality or other variables, I use a shavette to compare.
Sometimes even a feather blade hangs up on some areas if I did not do my prep right.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I have now managed to hone three separate razors to a degree I feel good shaving with, however, I suspect that I should be able to do better. I have achieved a HHT3/4 in some spots before, but for many of the edges I have shaved with, they barely pass HHT2 - yet I find them comfortable, and close enough.

Hair tests are finicky, but a good shave is hard to argue with. It can be a useful tool once you have it dialed in but ultimately it's the shave that matters. Are you testing after stropping?

 

[javast]

Are you testing after stropping?

both before and after, and while I have noticed some improvement from stropping, I wouldn't call it significant in terms of the HHT. I have not attempted shaving without stropping, although that might be an interesting data point...

 

[Darth Scandalous]

both before and after, and while I have noticed some improvement from stropping, I wouldn't call it significant in terms of the HHT. I have not attempted shaving without stropping, although that might be an interesting data point...

I usually see a big bump in HHT after stropping. But, that's with my hair, in my bathroom... some guys can get a decent HHT right off the stone. I usually can't, in fact I don't bother trying. I do have a couple stones that I can get a passable HHT before stropping but for whatever reason I don't particularly like shaving with the edges I've gotten from them.

Bottom line, HHT is just a probative tool, and has to be calibrate to your technique and hair supply. The goal is a close comfortable shave, not to make long hairs into smaller ones.

 

[Seraphim]

Did someone say "Gold Dollar"????

I've honed up hundreds of these, and all have turned out to be great shavers. You certainly are on the right track with a very aggressive bevel set- that is a key element in whipping these beasts into submission. I have no clue as to how a coticoule works, I can't even spell it, but I suspect there may be something not quite finishing off the edge jumping down from the 1200 there somewhere. Keep at it, and don't be afraid to wail on the 325 some more. The edges fresh from the factory can have some frown areas to them, unevenness and all sorts of weird contours that need to be addressed with low grit authority. Take a dremel and eradicate the troublesome heel completely. Just grind that sucker right off, and any associated stabilizer back there as well. The beefy GD doesn't need no stinkin' stabilizer.

 

[Seraphim]

As you can see, a GD66 can be a fairly good shaver, properly honed. I suggest you do the whole process all over again. Your diamond plates got it beat into shape, somewhat. It doesn't hurt a thing to reprofile the heel. You lose very little edge. You have raised a burr, no need for that again. Just hone with normal x strokes and moderate to light pressure until you have good contact out to the edge, and a consistent scratch pattern, with a decent bevel setting synthetic stone such as a Naniwa Superstone 1k grit. Or you might like the Shapton 1.5k. The Naniwa Chosera 1k is also popular, a bit faster of a stone but the Superstone leaves a bit nicer bevel face. I often use the Chosera and then the Naniwa to clean it up. From there I usually go to film, 9µ, 3µ, then 1µ, then the three stage pasted balsa progression. Don't worry about the balsa until you are getting good edges from the 12k or 1µ finish.

You need a single very bright point of light, for making good reflections that you can read as you roll and tip the blade. I most firmly suggest getting a Belomo 10x triplet loupe. There is nothing better for this. Unlike most other loupes even approaching its class, the focal length is long enough that your loupe stands off from the edge of the razor by a safe distance. The clarity is stunning compared to cheapos that have to include a LED light in them in order to see anything. Good field of view, enough magnification to see what you need to see.

You need to look at your edge and see what you got, if you want to make it better. The sharpie test will tell you a lot, at a glance. Study the reflections as you roll the blade in the light. And you should see zero reflection, zero ANYTHING, from the edge turned straight up at your optic or your naked eye.

Newbie Honing Compendium - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/newbie-honing-compendium.545370/

Lookin good, Slash!

 

[javast]

Take a dremel and eradicate the troublesome heel completely. Just grind that sucker right off, and any associated stabilizer back there as well. The beefy GD doesn't need no stinkin' stabilizer.

None of the 8 I got have much of a stabilizer - I have understood from other posts that the grind has been improved in recent years. Not knowing what the situation used to be, I can only comment that none of the razors I have looked at have any stabilizer, or obvious frowns, other weirdness, etc. Still 4 dollars though, making them a very nice value, so it seems. From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?

 

[Seraphim]

There are some razors out there are are just “magic”. But it’s not always just a matter of buying your way into that magic razor. It can be a $20 EBay find, or a $400 high zoot whatever.
Properly honed, and from a purely ability standpoint, looks aside, my experience is that GDs shave as well as 95% of all the razors out there.

 

[ZeelandsRoem]

From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?

I have no doubt a $10 GD can shave in the right hands and with the right knowledge. But there are differences between razors, besides country of origin.

With more expensive razors, you can get or choose a better steel, general manufacturing quality, different steel options, hardness, grind, size, scales, customization, gold plating (some think it's a gimmick and see no real value in it, but that's just their view and nothing more).

I cannot think why someone would buy straight razors for status. Some (especially among young generation) don't even know what a straight razors is; some have no clue they are still being nowadays. However, most people have different priorities in life and straight razors is not one of them; these things just don't matter to them. Therefore, they will find it hard to justify paying more than what they pay for a common Gillette cartridge found in the supermarket and won't care someone is using straight razors. If we count time spent for stropping, honing and maintenance plus cost, they will only think we are either crazy or have too much free time and no social life.

As for nostalgia? A $20 razor will tick the box.

Also, if someone wants to pay $5k for a custom razor which was manufactured using very specific materials and methods, then let them be. It's their choice and that's what makes them happy. Same with someone buying 100 GD's. Same for stones, cars, houses, clothing, tech, everything in life.

I would say we should just enjoy this hobby and respect each other's decisions. In the end, we are privileged to have so many options to choose from.

 

[javast]

I would say we should just enjoy this hobby and respect each other's decisions. In the end, we are privileged to have so many options to choose from.

100% agree. From my standpoint, I am trying to avoid excessive expenditure at the outset, since I have noticed that it is quite possible to go down a spending rabbit-hole here. I bought a coticule at the outset, and my experience so far is that it's nice and all, but I should have started with film.

 

[rbscebu]

All I can say is that my three most favoured SRs are Gold Dollars, a 66 and two W59s.

Other "cheap" SRs that are very close to my GDs are the new-grind Titan ACRM-2 T.H.60 SRs at about US$20 each including shipping, a nice PU leather zippered case, 62mm denim strop and some cerium oxide striping paste. I have no need for the case, strop, and paste so bang for bucks must go to the GD66.

The only thing I don't like about the GD66 is their factory-fitted scales. They are too light and flimsy for me.

 

[Slash McCoy]

None of the 8 I got have much of a stabilizer - I have understood from other posts that the grind has been improved in recent years. Not knowing what the situation used to be, I can only comment that none of the razors I have looked at have any stabilizer, or obvious frowns, other weirdness, etc. Still 4 dollars though, making them a very nice value, so it seems. From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?

When you phrase it that way, not much. The thing is, there is in fact other factors in selecting and owning a razor besides just the actual shave. I will say this, though. The bevel angle on a GD is rather pudgy, and this tends to gentle down the shave a bit, which can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on the user. Most better razors have a bevel angle almost two degrees less than a GD, and for ultimate cutting power, (again, depending on the user, this isn't always a good thing.) you want the bevel angle to be in the razor sweet zone, between 16° and 17°. A GD66 is a hair over 18°, typically.

Bottom line is if you are just fine with a GD, then there you are. If you want a nicer razor, get one. You don't have to justify your decision.

 

[Seraphim]

... If you want a nicer razor, get one. You don't have to justify your decision.

As a matter of fact, we are more than happy to HELP you justify getting more razors!!!

 

[David]

Did someone say "Gold Dollar"????

There’s a blast from the past. It’s been a minute. Good to see you around again.

 

[Seraphim]

There’s a blast from the past. It’s been a minute. Good to see you around again.

Yeah, I started my own business a couple years back and thus don't have time for straights anymore. I've recently made the switch to a Single Edge razor that uses Feather blades. Decided to see what was happening here in the straight forum and got sucked into a GD thread, which is always good for some conversation

 

[Loner16]

I have no doubt a $10 GD can shave in the right hands and with the right knowledge. But there are differences between razors, besides country of origin.

With more expensive razors, you can get or choose a better steel, general manufacturing quality, different steel options, hardness, grind, size, scales, customization, gold plating (some think it's a gimmick and see no real value in it, but that's just their view and nothing more).

I cannot think why someone would buy straight razors for status. Some (especially among young generation) don't even know what a straight razors is; some have no clue they are still being nowadays. However, most people have different priorities in life and straight razors is not one of them; these things just don't matter to them. Therefore, they will find it hard to justify paying more than what they pay for a common Gillette cartridge found in the supermarket and won't care someone is using straight razors. If we count time spent for stropping, honing and maintenance plus cost, they will only think we are either crazy or have too much free time and no social life.

As for nostalgia? A $20 razor will tick the box.

Also, if someone wants to pay $5k for a custom razor which was manufactured using very specific materials and methods, then let them be. It's their choice and that's what makes them happy. Same with someone buying 100 GD's. Same for stones, cars, houses, clothing, tech, everything in life.

I would say we should just enjoy this hobby and respect each other's decisions. In the end, we are privileged to have so many options to choose from.

Very well said!

 

[rbscebu]

When you phrase it that way, not much. The thing is, there is in fact other factors in selecting and owning a razor besides just the actual shave. I will say this, though. The bevel angle on a GD is rather pudgy, and this tends to gentle down the shave a bit, which can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on the user. Most better razors have a bevel angle almost two degrees less than a GD, and for ultimate cutting power, (again, depending on the user, this isn't always a good thing.) you want the bevel angle to be in the razor sweet zone, between 16° and 17°. A GD66 is a hair over 18°, typically.

....

You will find that the design bevel angle of the more "modern" ground Gold Dollar 66 SRs are now generally in the 16° to 17° range. My last three GD66s have been 16.8°, 16.7° and 16.5°.

That being said, I also find that my students in SR shaving prefer and perform better with more obtuse bevel angles of around 18°. That is why I recommend and only supply to them shave-ready SRs of around that bevel angle.

Personally I find very little difference between a 16° and 18° bevel angle but that could be because of my developed shaving technique.