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Apologies, I didn't quite understand your comment - could you elaborate?If you have an artist club style razor you should be able to at least come quite close in cutting efficiency.
Apologies, I didn't quite understand your comment - could you elaborate?If you have an artist club style razor you should be able to at least come quite close in cutting efficiency.
Oh, yes. The shaves will improve for quite a while yet. Then there will be the frontier of consistency: getting your best-shaving edge every time, something I am still improving on and not near success.I have now managed to hone three separate razors to a degree I feel good shaving with, however, I suspect that I should be able to do better.
I just meant that you can use something like a shavette to compare your straight razor edge to. If I test a new edge, if it is tugging, to rule out lather quality or other variables, I use a shavette to compare.Apologies, I didn't quite understand your comment - could you elaborate?
Hair tests are finicky, but a good shave is hard to argue with. It can be a useful tool once you have it dialed in but ultimately it's the shave that matters. Are you testing after stropping?I have now managed to hone three separate razors to a degree I feel good shaving with, however, I suspect that I should be able to do better. I have achieved a HHT3/4 in some spots before, but for many of the edges I have shaved with, they barely pass HHT2 - yet I find them comfortable, and close enough.
both before and after, and while I have noticed some improvement from stropping, I wouldn't call it significant in terms of the HHT. I have not attempted shaving without stropping, although that might be an interesting data point...Are you testing after stropping?
I usually see a big bump in HHT after stropping. But, that's with my hair, in my bathroom... some guys can get a decent HHT right off the stone. I usually can't, in fact I don't bother trying. I do have a couple stones that I can get a passable HHT before stropping but for whatever reason I don't particularly like shaving with the edges I've gotten from them.both before and after, and while I have noticed some improvement from stropping, I wouldn't call it significant in terms of the HHT. I have not attempted shaving without stropping, although that might be an interesting data point...
Lookin good, Slash!
As you can see, a GD66 can be a fairly good shaver, properly honed. I suggest you do the whole process all over again. Your diamond plates got it beat into shape, somewhat. It doesn't hurt a thing to reprofile the heel. You lose very little edge. You have raised a burr, no need for that again. Just hone with normal x strokes and moderate to light pressure until you have good contact out to the edge, and a consistent scratch pattern, with a decent bevel setting synthetic stone such as a Naniwa Superstone 1k grit. Or you might like the Shapton 1.5k. The Naniwa Chosera 1k is also popular, a bit faster of a stone but the Superstone leaves a bit nicer bevel face. I often use the Chosera and then the Naniwa to clean it up. From there I usually go to film, 9µ, 3µ, then 1µ, then the three stage pasted balsa progression. Don't worry about the balsa until you are getting good edges from the 12k or 1µ finish.
You need a single very bright point of light, for making good reflections that you can read as you roll and tip the blade. I most firmly suggest getting a Belomo 10x triplet loupe. There is nothing better for this. Unlike most other loupes even approaching its class, the focal length is long enough that your loupe stands off from the edge of the razor by a safe distance. The clarity is stunning compared to cheapos that have to include a LED light in them in order to see anything. Good field of view, enough magnification to see what you need to see.
You need to look at your edge and see what you got, if you want to make it better. The sharpie test will tell you a lot, at a glance. Study the reflections as you roll the blade in the light. And you should see zero reflection, zero ANYTHING, from the edge turned straight up at your optic or your naked eye.
Newbie Honing Compendium - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/newbie-honing-compendium.545370/
None of the 8 I got have much of a stabilizer - I have understood from other posts that the grind has been improved in recent years. Not knowing what the situation used to be, I can only comment that none of the razors I have looked at have any stabilizer, or obvious frowns, other weirdness, etc. Still 4 dollars though, making them a very nice value, so it seems. From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?Take a dremel and eradicate the troublesome heel completely. Just grind that sucker right off, and any associated stabilizer back there as well. The beefy GD doesn't need no stinkin' stabilizer.
I have no doubt a $10 GD can shave in the right hands and with the right knowledge. But there are differences between razors, besides country of origin.From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?
100% agree. From my standpoint, I am trying to avoid excessive expenditure at the outset, since I have noticed that it is quite possible to go down a spending rabbit-hole here. I bought a coticule at the outset, and my experience so far is that it's nice and all, but I should have started with film.I would say we should just enjoy this hobby and respect each other's decisions. In the end, we are privileged to have so many options to choose from.
When you phrase it that way, not much. The thing is, there is in fact other factors in selecting and owning a razor besides just the actual shave. I will say this, though. The bevel angle on a GD is rather pudgy, and this tends to gentle down the shave a bit, which can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on the user. Most better razors have a bevel angle almost two degrees less than a GD, and for ultimate cutting power, (again, depending on the user, this isn't always a good thing.) you want the bevel angle to be in the razor sweet zone, between 16° and 17°. A GD66 is a hair over 18°, typically.None of the 8 I got have much of a stabilizer - I have understood from other posts that the grind has been improved in recent years. Not knowing what the situation used to be, I can only comment that none of the razors I have looked at have any stabilizer, or obvious frowns, other weirdness, etc. Still 4 dollars though, making them a very nice value, so it seems. From a pure shaving steel experience perspective, (ie. not nostalgia, aesthetics, status, etc.) is there any reason to prefer higher end razor, some of which cost 100 times more?
As a matter of fact, we are more than happy to HELP you justify getting more razors!!!... If you want a nicer razor, get one. You don't have to justify your decision.
There’s a blast from the past. It’s been a minute. Good to see you around again.Did someone say "Gold Dollar"????
Yeah, I started my own business a couple years back and thus don't have time for straights anymore. I've recently made the switch to a Single Edge razor that uses Feather blades. Decided to see what was happening here in the straight forum and got sucked into a GD thread, which is always good for some conversationThere’s a blast from the past. It’s been a minute. Good to see you around again.
Very well said!I have no doubt a $10 GD can shave in the right hands and with the right knowledge. But there are differences between razors, besides country of origin.
With more expensive razors, you can get or choose a better steel, general manufacturing quality, different steel options, hardness, grind, size, scales, customization, gold plating (some think it's a gimmick and see no real value in it, but that's just their view and nothing more).
I cannot think why someone would buy straight razors for status. Some (especially among young generation) don't even know what a straight razors is; some have no clue they are still being nowadays. However, most people have different priorities in life and straight razors is not one of them; these things just don't matter to them. Therefore, they will find it hard to justify paying more than what they pay for a common Gillette cartridge found in the supermarket and won't care someone is using straight razors. If we count time spent for stropping, honing and maintenance plus cost, they will only think we are either crazy or have too much free time and no social life.
As for nostalgia? A $20 razor will tick the box.
Also, if someone wants to pay $5k for a custom razor which was manufactured using very specific materials and methods, then let them be. It's their choice and that's what makes them happy. Same with someone buying 100 GD's. Same for stones, cars, houses, clothing, tech, everything in life.
I would say we should just enjoy this hobby and respect each other's decisions. In the end, we are privileged to have so many options to choose from.
You will find that the design bevel angle of the more "modern" ground Gold Dollar 66 SRs are now generally in the 16° to 17° range. My last three GD66s have been 16.8°, 16.7° and 16.5°.When you phrase it that way, not much. The thing is, there is in fact other factors in selecting and owning a razor besides just the actual shave. I will say this, though. The bevel angle on a GD is rather pudgy, and this tends to gentle down the shave a bit, which can be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on the user. Most better razors have a bevel angle almost two degrees less than a GD, and for ultimate cutting power, (again, depending on the user, this isn't always a good thing.) you want the bevel angle to be in the razor sweet zone, between 16° and 17°. A GD66 is a hair over 18°, typically.
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